Anyone seen the course today after the last couple of days of snow. Did the snow hit Contin too

I always managed with my daughters. Biggest issue was getting the grabber through a frame to reach down and grab the wee one’s frame, but always managed it. And once you’ve got the ‘order’ sorted once then take a picture with yer phone and keep it for reference 🙂

allthegear – Member
I used to have a Thule one on the back of my Impreza. If a bike was safe there, it was safe anywhere…
Rachel

Good show 🙂

And I too, on a couple of Imprezas – which were regularly bounced around the B roads of
Scotland fully loaded. Never budged. Amazing bits of kit.
Mines now a good 6-7 years old, had everything that Wintry roads can throw at it, minimal maintenance and still gets our bikes to wherever we’re going.
Only issue I’ve had is probs with the electrical connector. But to be fair it is exposed to some horrendous conditions and is replaceable for a fiver.

Njee20 – that’s the answer – cheers

No idea about chains though – using standard KMC 10sp ones.

I’ve got a couple of these recently – they’re reversible. For example I’ve reversed mine as ‘standard’ for my 1×10 setups because of the way the chainring bolts would sit.
I actually asked the company last year if I could mount the ring the other way round and got a Yes back.

Ooooh. I’d say go for it.
I’ve just performed a similar exercise ( built up from 2nd hand frame ) but gone 1×10 and I’m not dying from pedal bob. I think the alpine is climbing really well, and that’s compared to a ‘5’. Initial set up is actually not too hard and you can tweak that shock like mad (I’ve hardly moved mine since initial setup in Nov mind you)
There is no doubt that there is more bob than I have on the ‘5’ with its RP23 and Propedal but its not bad.
There is a weight penalty as someone has said – I notice that a bit but hasn’t bothered me when doing all day Scotland riding.

Maybe it’s just down to luck or some outside factor like garrage temperature?

Leaning towards this.
🙂

Will continue with Stans methinks. Despite the general mess when you can’t seal a puncture and need a tube it’s still good IMO.

Druidh – haha 🙂

Re keeping the bottle sealed – yes – though never tried squeezing air out of the bottle first
Not totally convinced the red bottle cap is that airtight for that to work but could always try
I don’t think it’s the latex sealing the outlet hole or no-one would ever buy the stuff 🙂 the hole is way too big for that though given you have to shake it all up inverted maybe as you say bigjim, that maybe has an impact but again can’t see it otherwise it’d happen to lots of folks?
It’s happened to me a couple of times with a bottle in the garage, up to a year old.

Anyone tried any different makes with any proven success out of interest?

I’ve got used to KMC in the last few years and have had no problems with them.
Only difference between the cheaper / expensive ones seems to me to be weight. Want light = pay more. Kind of feels as simple as that.
I got one of the Nitride coated KMC ones this year, goldy coloured and it seem sot be quite easy to keep clean so have liked that.

Mr P – ta for that link.
All – ta for replies.
Northwind – yes makes sense. Think I’ll just go for it and save myself some hassle. If if leaks I’ll know soon enough – heh heh.

Cheers.

Actually superstar pedals. First time I’ve ever had a pedal depart the spindle. Odd failure. Anyway – superstar have asked for it back to have a look. I’ll use my other superstar pedals in the meantime 🙂

Jodafett – heh heh. Well fixed it once so could fix it again between three of us :-). But most important – regular checks for play to make sure it was put about to happen 🙂

Just ace to somehow still get out, cos I could not find a 9mm socket in my rucksack 🙂 strangely enough.

That was fun aye.
Bike unscathed, also not last, me unscathed despite numerous off’s, great trails.
What’s not to like 🙂

Talking to NoFuss the other day, still sorting out landowner permission I understand.
I’ve booked Kinlochleven accommodation anyway and just hoping nothing moves now.
Ciaran Path ?

Never been down that on foot before never mind bike…… that has a reputation though wot.

Well to be honest – if you get the angle of the thing right first time then it just works. 10 minutes to take apart and refit at a different angle and job done. Good bit of kit.
Thanks for the comments folks.
T666dom – now shame I hadn’t noticed that earlier !!!

No ISCG mounts sadly.
What would be handy I’ve decided is if I had an open ended BB tool rather than a full enclosed one.
Simples. As then could loosen the whole thing off with everything installed and adjust on the fly. it’s hard tomwrk out where best to have the XCX in terms of front / back when you have to dismantle everything each time.

And that’s before deciding where to put the spacers. I’ve gone for removing the 2.5mm existing spacer and put in one 0.5mm XCX spacer then the XCX then another supplied 0.5mm.

Ah well – always good to be changing kit before events like the Tour de Ben Nevis eh ……. if you see someone cursing at a chain guide half way round then do say hello 🙂

Good shout. Trying one on an Orange 5 myself and struggling with lining up the guide.
How did you get on with rubbing of the chain on the device jam bo?

Biggest issue for me is having to fit the guide, and tightening the BB with the guide straight – then finding that it shifts in the installation. And ‘straight’ is actually hard to assess.

So always end up with rubbing – though tend to find its more running on the front (exit) from the device. Plenty of room at the back. Tempted to spin it fwd a bit on its axis.

Also did you use the two supplied spacers? I’ve used one either side of the device mount and taken the normal 2.5 spacer away from drive side.

trail_rat

ta – yes, appreciate damage is done and time is needed … and to use the consultants words .. if you’re going from 8hrs a week on a hardtail to a weekly 2hr trip on a full suss bike, then his opinion was that would be fine.
But aye – for periods of thr last 4 months I’ve actually just done nothing as it happens. And interested to hear whether anyone else cycled through these things too (or not).
I’ve changed by bars (to more rise), i’ve changed grips, and i’ve raised front end (as I strongly ssupect the low position on the HT put mpre weight on my hands and will have significantly contributed). So that’s a good bit of backup to that theory. Cheers.
I might actually (if and when i ride cos going thru a non riding phase again) raise the bars a bit further and move the saddle yet again if there’s any more room to, and see if can get even more weight off the hands.
Also been toying with moving to road bike as hand position is completely different …

And mebbe going back to consultant and seeing if there’s any views now that it’s been going on for so long. And messing wigth keyboard/desk position at work … bah.

That’s really interesting. Ta.
Seems to be much more common to get the ulnar nerve problem (from checking Web and according to my consultant) – which is te one that road cyclists often suffer from for some reason.
It runs down the inside of the hand where the inside gel
pads on gloves usually cover.
The median is the one in the middle which is ‘protected’ in the carpal tunnel but you’d think once damage is done it would be same type of recovery as its still just nerve damage.
Pain in the bum.

My tuppence worth – not convinced re filing hubs Brant. I use two different types of Hope hubs on two wheelsets, and have swapped these back and forward between two other bikes for years.

Built up a new 456 last year, Aug/Sep time – the dropout that came with the frame was too narrow to accept either rear wheel I had – my immediate thought (and still is) at the time was just a poorly machined dropout.
Went to get a file then remembered I’d ordered a spare dropout with the frame order, so tried that – worked fine, and it’s still on the bike.

I did call about the one that came with the frame and was told to follow the returns process. I’m sure I’ve still got it in an envelope somewhere .. never got round to dealing with it.

So o/p – I would send the dropout back and get a replacement …

Brant – that make sense?

Not sure I get the flexy up thing at all. I’ve spent a lot of time pedalling uphill recently, and it feels pretty stiff.
On the downhills – seems to be hard on the body I’d agree with to a point. I went for a long ride in January and still have numb fingertips. Which actually makes me think it’s hard on the body up and down.
Still riding it though and will be for years … just running lower tyre pressures and suspension unlocked always now to save some chatter.

I went 2×9 on both bikes pretty quickly just by taking off the big ring and using the 22/32 ones left.
When the HT’s chainrings started wearing I just binned both and went to 1×9, upping the middle ring to 34t. I love the simplicity of the set up now – Doubt I’ll go back.

Can’t remember the last time I had to use levers to fit a tyre using this method, even the impossible ones that customers have broken levers fitting.

Good effort that – I managed to break one Park lever on the Crest / new TR Schwalbe’s. Despite normally fitting everything by hand. They’re simply a nightmare to fit.

+1 njee20

Believe the Crest rims are pretty much at the higher end of tolerance and new Schwalbe TR tyres are tight.
See Stans Foum
http://messageboard.notubes.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2895&sid=e4a4fe47a1def59d2edbed2ed46befbb

Clutch SX’s I used the other night are pretty damn grippy. As I caught up with my cold chums every now and then, boiling hot, while they’re freezing cold standing waiting, I reflected on their appropriateness for the Water of Leith path and a climb up a looooooong road. Grippy didn’t say it … they picked up every bit of dirt on the road/grit/gravel and noisily reminded me of how grippy they are.
Brilliant on the first off road climb when going for the random off route bog.
Fun ended there though …. XC after that and I remember well pedalling Downhill while Pete flew by freewheeling. If ever a direct comparison were needed that was it.

661 Evo Knee for me – Don’t bother me riding round the Glen Tress Black type length of ride, in fact quite the opposite on the descents 🙂
Also have had Brand X knee/shin combo – they were fine too to be honest, but the sizing was a bit weird for the velcro straps (or I’m just too fat in one part of my calf, which is always possible) so tended to have the shin guard part a bit loose as a result. They were quite warm in Summer.

I’ve recently done similar – did a few rides trying to stay in the existing 32 ring at the front, and after a few never using the granny ring at the front I just ditched the other two rings, and have kept the existing 32. Will get used to it like this, and if/when the 32 wears out i’ll maybe stick a harder wearing single ring on after and think about going to 34 then.
Worked pretty well as an experiment at the Puffer – all rideable in that setup.

720

sheikinvac – Member

Three of us walked the course on Saturday afternoon taking photos.Some stills here. http://www.flickr.com/photos/74034041@N06/sets/72157628810568047/
I’ll try to get more from the other “photographers” and post them here later.

Thanks for posting these .. evidence in there that I was there – ta 🙂

kennyp – Member

We had five one solo, three pairs and one quad in.
And finally a massive thank you to Rick and the rest of our support crew who once again put in a mammoth effort to keep us going through the night. The real stars of the show for us.

+1 to our support crew, one and all, as one of those pairs being looked after extremely well.
Actually the only pair that didn’t podium, but delighted as Puffer pair virgins with 6th overall and 26 laps.
Like a few others, didn’t wear out a set of pads – I’ll still be using the same Sintered Superstar pads for ages, despite 14 laps of that.

Next year Kenny …. we’ll see 🙂

Well here goes. It’s cold and raining just now on site. The gazebos have already blown away once. One destroyed, other repaired 🙂
Now it’s just time for eating and drinking beside a wee heater in the team accommodation then some rest before the excitement begins. 11:30 to go. Yippeeee.

:-))

Ice-tastic this morning ……

Anyone been up today? Any snow left ? 🙂

Yuck. So the snow is just melting then presumably.
I think there was a brief cold snap forecast for Thur night and a warning of icy conditions as a result on Fri morning, which might result in some clear ice forming, btu given the forecast temps for later on Friday can’t see that lasting either.

I should’ve bought some mud tyres …..

33 mile RT per day with 2,000 feet of climbing.
I can’t see you getting in anyone’s road 🙂

But if you fancy attaching a tow rope to pull some of us along as you pass by then pls do.

Enjoy the event.

All looking a bit like a normal day at a trail centre now eh …. other than the 17hrs of drakness of course ….

The 17 is a slightly strange new size. I recall the 17 was only made though to cater for certain specific features (seat posts or combination of post and new head tube, my memory fails me – there was a very specific reason for it, so that certain things could be used that couldn’t previously on a 16 mebbe – something like that) so I’m not sure they changed all of the frame proportionally.

Actually just checked the TT length etc, the effective TT is the same as the 18 and so is the wheelbase.
So while you get reduced standover clearance, the bike will still be same in terms of reach etc. (actual TT is 6mm shorter which seems to equate to identical effective TT).

Anyway – I’m 5’9, 32 inside leg, and on an 18″ with 60mm stem. I tried both 16 and 18 – couldn’t decide, so took for LBS advice and went for 18. Love it. Use it for just about everything.
Suspect I could also ride 16 happily too and it might be more ‘chuckable’? if such a phrase exists.
PS. Stem was changed to 60mm to shorten cockpit a little for me rather than stick with stock 90mm. That was the main trade off between 16 / 18 for me.

Hope Tech X2’s with 160mm on 16″ frame are fine.

So fair bit of 24/36 chat here – is that a common combo? I want to convert from 3×10 to 2×10, but given the amount of cycling on roads required to get to hills, looking for more than the ‘normal’ OEM 32 ring middle ring, but not sure whether just to go to 34 or up to 36. If you go 36, do you need to up the inner ring too so there’s not as much of a gap between inner and middle rings for ramping?

Use it every second third ride, and like others when (if it ever does) it runs out I’ll likely be getting more.
Sure there was once a description from the product owners about how it had been changed over time to be more than a silicone spray but can’t remember where I read that now.