in my head, all doubles are like that

except with metal spikes in the bottom as well

oooh, I’ve just RTFM. They have different part numbers and aren’t interchangeable

suppose they’re identical, then ;¬)

sudocrem to rule them all

cure, prevention, bearing lubrication, …

thudbuster LT here – it’s ace

Not a dump valve then, its physically impossible to activate (a real) one at tickover

well, was more of a figure of speech really, rather than a literal description

and they’d never insure a powerful car

you reckon “they” declare this sort of mod ?

syllables: F C U K me – maybe ?

I think the dump valve is very functional actually!

yeh:

When you hear one on an urban road in heavy traffic they’re an early warning system for impending “racing wheels” on drum brakes dustbin exhaust **** akshun

and a van ? :wink:

functional my arse !

most seem to do it at tickover

OP is correct – tossrags

no, I’m losing you…. breaking up……..dawn………posing pouch……………nightie !

overheating ?
if you can get the back off, blow out all the dust & see how you go

that’s not a robin :roll:

is there a 10 mile bimble option ?

lighthouse ?

baby robin ?

I am certain. the fork bridge is connected by the lower fork to the quick release fixing point. If it fouls on compression it means the wheel has been pushed through the bottom of the forks. Oh, perhaps it could happen to me

No, it won’t hit the brace but could meet the down tube (or crown as stu said)

don’t sound so desperate B A C O N; he’ll be back. They all stray occasionally. Just give him some space for a while

off to sheldon with you, young man !

WCA – are you sure the tyre won’t foul the frame if the fork compresses fully ?

I bought a cx frame, then built it up as a road bike. Plan was it’ll last for ever (was a closeout Ti airborne) and not rattle to bits on the crap roads round here (everywhere ?). Also has space for mudguards etc if I ever restart commuting

It feels nice & light to me but not compared to a proper road frame or even a roubaix I suppose. I’ll “never” ride it off-road.

I like it and a couple of mates have tried it & think it’s comfier on rough surfaces than their road bikes. TBH, I might do it differently next time – if, say, it got nicked. Other than that, I’mm keeping it for aaages.

I just don’t get this facing lark

BB shell has a thread in either side. cups screw into thread to a depth of, what, about 2cm ?

Won’t the opposition of the 2 cups be dependent on the accuracy of the thread-setting, not the ends ?
(surely it’d take a lot of force to warp one of the cups and it’d more likely just sit there, butting up to one bit of the shell – unless it was fitted using a tractor spanner, by a gibbon)

at the back, you say ?

behind some shapely ladies, by any small chance ?

forum help – for pics[/url]

stop imagining you’re Rambo (like this ^ bunch of ruffty hard-men) and get a bit of bent coat hanger to help compress the link – leaves your fingers free to push against the plates and works very well when your hands are cold & the chain’s filthy

LHS pedal will unscrew itself if the bearings seize
maybe a bit of grit made that happen, pedal unscrewed but then you freed it by turning the other way first, or maybe just banging it on the ground while attached to your foot

….or else satan has claimed your soul

bottom of the "forums" page has the currently "hot tags" – the bigger they are, the more times they occur

haven’t ridden mine much but:

longer fork – yes, better I think

sag. I think I like mine with quite a lot, 25% minimum. They don’t really bob so you can run quite low pressures (but see thread on pedal-strike)

OK, I’m a bit better now I know that you’re drying & cleaning the seals rather than the bearings
Why don’t you do the freehub? I’d have thought moisture would trap down there for much longer

puddles/streams/lakes – odd ?
All I’m saying is you’re in with FBarnesy on that one :winkything:

if I’ve been puddle-paddling, stream crossing or lake swimming I do, just as I’d dry and clean the bearings in my BB and hubs

8O

must’ve been a fun summer round your house

"leaving them wet after a ride"… etc

???

what should we do, take em out & blow-dry ?
I can’t think of any mistreatment I could give a set of pads that should result in delamination. I accept that it may happen occasionally through materials failure but don’t accept that there can be an argument that I might have caused it.

(because of the above, I’d call this replacement of faulty parts and so I say it’s the supplier’s responsibility to get the new pads to Tang)

Can someone please enlighten me ?
Should we have to dry-off pads after a ride, or remove them while cleaning the bike, or anything else ?

"SwitchbacksDH is for the aspiring to professional DHer who wants van-assist downhilling between the months of November to April"

Hora, my mental image of you is exactly this – no ?

music map ?[/url]

You can’t

thought so

dezB’s link was originally to a beige trek (as, I guess, was phildowling’s). did it turn into those old blokes again ?

I think this is sites changing their target image rather than something wrong with original link (but then I don’t even know how to spell html !)

oh, please can somebody explain how to check images when hotlinking

(assume hotlinking is just cut/pasting the url of the pic ?)

LOL @ phildowling’s ugliness !!

(washes brain in dettol)

chav hats, you say ?

gavtheoldskater – you uncle was quite right. ANY sort of hat is a sign of a shite driver, I’ve used that rule for years.

edit:
honourable exceptions granted
turbans (not a hat IMO anyway)
crash helmets
(maybe stetsons, not sure)

fitting glasses and adjusting the prescription and glasses to correct for your eyes/face is a complex process.

i can’t see why anyone would buy glasses on line, it’d be like buying a pair of shoes without ordering a size.

TBH, I think you’re overstating the complexity of things a bit there.
I also get a bit of a feeling that the OP has tried on the "shoes" in a shop, knows what they want & is now looking to save a few quid by online shopping (just like plenty of folk do with MTB clothes, helmets, bikes…)

"Poploc remote option" sounds worryingly like it’d be an extra for you to request (& pay for)

Is it a Rockshox term or did the shop invent the phrase ?

Suggest you move fairly fast in contacting him for costs – that way it’s still fresh in everyone’s mind (especially witness) IF he decides to start wriggling (right now he’s probably thinking 25 quid’ll cover it)

Get a bike shop to quote for full repair (ideally describing damage too, & preferably on headed paper)