Ah – I hadn’t thought of that. Presumably the BB threads aren’t made of carbon fibre (!!!). I will double check this evening, but looks like copperslip is the right call. Thanks everyone 🙂

My DH bike will happily fit in the boot of my V70 with wheels off. In fact we can usually stack 2-3 DH bikes in there before we have to resort to wheels on laps etc.

The Shimano Ultegra wheelset is only £200 from Merlin if you’re a VIP member (i.e. sign up to their mailing list).

I can’t offer an opinion on either as I’m also after a new wheelset in that price range and can’t stretch to the Fulcrum 3s 😕

apparently it is not good for your knees to do this – we are not evolved for the type of stresses that causes.

Hence the tight-fitting denim knee supports that fixie riders wear.

Not just folding bikes – click on the map in the link 😉

Tube

You can take a folded bike anywhere and anytime.
Click map for full PDF of where you can travel with your non-folding bike

You’re allowed to take your bike on certain tube lines as long as it’s off-peak. More details at TFL, but you can get your bike + kit on the circle line and just tube round to Euston Square.

Linky: http://www.tfl.gov.uk/roadusers/cycling/11701.aspx

Intense branded lock-ons here – they’ve got a nice 3/4 flange on the inside to park your hand up against. Lovely.

Yeah totally, so buy UST tyres then!

UST rims are designed to work with UST tyres, the fact that they may (or may not) work with any normal tyres is totally coincidental…

I’ve always wondered why people don’t just use UST tyres and have a happy hassle-free experience. Is it just trying to drop some more weight or lack of tyre options (e.g. you can’t get a Maxxis 3C tyre in UST 🙁 )?

<3

she is so frickin FIT tho – the jammy bastard

This is the most important bit of the story as far as I’m concerned 🙂

No pictures of my red 5.5 yet, so here’s two of my old Chameleon instead:

Aston Hill and Chicksands are both train-able, even on a big bike.

Do what FLV said. Whenever I’m adjusting an I-Beam I usually have to loosen the bolt up then give it a twist to pop it free of the clamp.

Alternatively – this looks more compact, and you could probably attach round your seat post without noticing it:

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/accessories/locks/product/review-master-lock-street-cuff-10508/

I like the looks of this:

If I vote for a Labour candidate in a seat in which Labour has a large share of the vote, I can rank every other candidate to my heart’s content but those votes will never be counted, no difference.

By contrast, if I vote for a fringe party that gets knocked out early, my second and third preferences can end up deciding the election.

Under those circumstances, the second and third preferences of fringe parties (some of whom may be moderate, some of whom may be extremists) become all-powerful, so candidates for the mainstream parties will have to pitch for them. Hence, under AV, the minor parties wield more power – both in the ballot box and on the stump.

This is simply the wrong way to look at things. In the first round, you vote for labour and some minority party is knocked out. In the second round, you get to vote again (the same as everyone else) and you stick with labour, and so on.

People who vote for a minority party which then gets knocked out get to indicate their second preference (e.g. BNP 1st, UKIP 2nd) – but that does not mean they get more voting power, it simply means that their political views are not held by a majority of the public.

Mainstream parties are in no way forced to pander to the ‘nutters’. If they don’t, then the nutters will only vote for their minority party – which will be knocked out a certain point, and then their vote is discounted.

Edit: in case it’s not obvious, I’ll be voting Yes. And I sincerely hope as many people on here as possible engage in the debate and choose the system they find to be most representative of the people (i.e. Yes 😛 )

Crossmarks, 2.25″, UST compatible.

Crossmark +1. Note that they’re bigger than the HR for any given size.

Maxxis tubeless tyres have a thicker sidewall, so if that’s the problem you’re seeing then proper tubeless tyres would help.

I’m running 20-25 PSI in my setup (Maxxis UST tyres / Mavic 823 and 819 rims) and haven’t had any problems.

The loop is OK, but as everyone has said – the final descent is the best bit. Having ridden the whole thing once, I wouldn’t bother again – just session the last descent with the downhillers 🙂

You need an adaptor – this one: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=54881

Nowt wrong with the Bel Air imo – have you tried dropping your seat post on technical stuff to get the saddle out of the way?

Do it, full sus is great 😈

On a more practical note – if you haven’t ridden a FS or a DW-link bike, do be aware you might take some time to get used to how it feels. I can’t comment here as I’ve not ridden a DW-link but I found I could feel the difference between VPP, FSR and single-pivot (and that I had a preference for VPP).

Hope you enjoy the new bike – remember to post pics when it’s built 🙂

I picked up a ’98 V70 AWD to replace my dead 940.

As above – it’s a bit thirsty (2.5L 20V engine 🙂 ) but goes like stink and has plenty of room for bikes and kit. As I recall I paid £1500 for mine three years ago (with an exhaust that needed replacing), 150k on the clock. Only work that’s been needed is the known-about exhaust, otherwise has been running just fine.

Innocent smoothies plus vodka to taste. Yum.

How is the “slow” group going to work – is it “pedal slowly and then sick to the max on the fun bits” or is it “pedal quickly then drag brakes down the fun bits”? 😉

Another vote for the Topeak. Had mine for years and it’s never leaked air, great little pump.

thats just a risk my mother is willing to take

😯

Commute this morning was horrible – 7.5 miles in the cold on my all new 1.25″ skinny road tyres. Took 3 minutes longer than the same bike running High Rollers 👿

I heard 2011 is the year of Linux on the desktop? Confirm/deny? 😆

Also depends on the roads along the way – if it’s 13 miles of A-road with no lights you’ll gain much more time than if it’s a stop-start commute through a town centre.

FWIW I saved ~5 minutes on a 1 hour commute through London (lights ahoy) – not really worth the bother so I sold the roadie after a year and bought more MTB parts 🙂

1) Some of their ideas are ok (see (2)), even if the writing is a bit on the fluff side.

2) Sit ups work at building ab muscle. But they ideally need to be weighted, and you won’t be able to see them unless you lose a load of body fat. So if you “want abs”, then no, sit ups alone do not work.

yeti

phil
mrsconsequence
goatboyisheretopleaseyou
torm
CG
neilneilorangepeel
Dickyboy
DrRSwank +1
rOcKeTdOg +4
Psychle (all alone )
lexiekay
hilldodger – tourists group please
toab
SilentSparky
kevsterjw
Mr Happy Jack +1
Flebby + 3(maybe 2 more, need to confirm.)
Nacho
TopgunSteve +2
Singletrackmind
neilnevill
SamB

I’ll possibly be overbiked – although I understand 8″ front and rear is XC nowadays yes? 😉

Whichever one has the suspension action I get on with best. At the moment it’d be a toss up between a Slopestyle 2 / Blue LTC / Nomad carbon / Enduro carbon evo (if that exists?). But I don’t want to get rid of my lovely red Intense 5.5 😛

Never tried a DW-link though so a HD could be an option.

Seconding Dez here – pull all your music to a single place, set up a folder structure as you prefer, then delete them all from iTunes and re-import. And make sure “Let iTunes manage my files” is unchecked!

If you want to backup to an external HDD or separate machine all you need to do is copy your single Music folder over – nice and simple.

Why on earth would you need a compressor to seat tubeless tyres? I can easily seat them up with a track pump and a bit of oomph (UST tyres on UST rims though…)

Can’t comment about Renthal chainrings but E13 chainrings are tip-top – I’ve had four 1×9 setups across various bikes and never had a problem with E13 rings. Light, look good, lots of colours available, and they do odd sizes (35T anyone?)

Don’t throw that mech out – you can adjust the spring tension in SRAM rear mechs.

Follow the instructions on p44-45 of this SRAM technical manual: http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/sram/dealers/MY10-SRAM-Tech-Manual-Rev-A.pdf

711mm carbon Eastons on the hardtail and 5″ FS, 750mm Nukeproofs on the DH bike.

Just waiting for the 750mm carbon Havocs to arrive in the UK then it’s upgrade time 😛