Ordered some fork decals in the last monthm turned up within a week. No fee etc when here

Decided to upgrade the rim’s to dt swiss xm421,seemed my cheap wheel set didn’t pay off, as they say, buy cheap, buy twice. wheels currently with moonglu for then to work their magic. Both my other bikes has dt rims and have zero issue. Plus I get to use the old rims tk make somthing like this for my two kids!

I’ve swapped out for another gx. I wanted a x01 as per recommended but nobody seemed to have any stock. Could only get gx or xx1, xx1 abit to much £ for me

New rubber fitted to the t130, when I brought yet last vittoria tyres, they where not hard to get hold of, alot of searching to get these as the usual suspects show no stock.

Ooo I think I’ve miss read it,mine only released the pressure in the negative, if yours released both positive and negative then yes seems like a bloody big leak

Solo air forks still have a negative air chamber, there is an equalisation dimple inside the stanchion, they just can’t be adjusted like dual airs. If you let the air out the lower section you’ll find the forks really hard till the air piston passes the dimple

@ajantom possibly built on a Friday afternoon 😆
It’s been going on a year now. Been to 4 different places. First shops I just said true them and set the correct tension thinking they machine built wheels and just bedding in. Between them I’ve just been using a cable tie and truing then myself, other 2 shops I’ve mentioned exactly what’s happening, nobody had given me an answer as to why or what’s causing it, just trued the wheel snd given it back to me

Comparison between my oneup and the brand x

Difference in cartridge , new one on the left

I brought a new cartridge, it fixed the issue and post returns alot faster. but I stupidly didnt compair it with the old one before fitted. Its about 15mm shorter so the post is no longer a 150mm dropper. Other difference is its changed the top mount from a 10mm nut to a 3mm Allen key. New one was marked as a 150mm internal, guess its for a 2020 model, there is a shop selling service kits on ebay, they told me the kits are only for the latest posts

I didnt touch the top of the post when I took it apart, didnt need to remove the saddle, all I did was undo the collar/seal head, then undo the lower actuator, take the two grub screws out so it comes off the cartridge then the lower part of the post slides off leaving the cartridge in the upper section

Ill have look under the saddle but I’m sure its got a 10mm nut,

Ive only had a reverb and a brand x to compare to, the lever feel on the oneup feels worse. The post itself seems well built and very little play and goes up and down smoothly but its hard to get to drop when I’m sitting on it, so thing my other two posts don’t do.

The lever doesn’t feel on and off to me, there is alot of throw and it doesn’t seem to stop, can push it further than the point the post is actuated .

Thanks for the advice, I will have a closer look at it. If it is the cable hopefully I can get away with the inner as the outer routing is a pain on the whyte t130!

My wife is a nursing assistant on a covid ward. She hasn’t had the vaccine yet and is required to take a covid test at home twice a week. Home test came back positive Thursday, test at hospital Friday with a positive result Saturday. Her symptoms where a head ache and sinus pain like a cold, now seems completely normal.
I woke up Sunday with a banging headache , didnt go all day, Monday woke up and felt absolutely knackered, kept getting dizzy and breathless doing small jobs around the house etc. Went for a test at 4.30 yesterday and got a positive result at 8 this morning. Head ache gone but get breathless still

Agreed the clamps are a pain to setup. Ive now got a replacement post so will see how I get on with this one. I’ve discussed it with oneup who say they have seen it before and its due to misaligned guide pin, I wanted to question the design of the clamp on the bike as its scored right where the clamp is but didn’t want to incriminate myself. I made a post on one of rhe whyte Facebook pages and a few other owners had this, some with other brands of posts.
Plenty of carbon post at the ready and slowly nip the clamp till the saddle doesn’t rotate and see what happens this time

Should had added picture. Ive messaged the seller and hopefully they will help

Do you find the 2.6 comes up small?

But of an update incase anyone else has this issue.

The issue was the heat shrink on the top out spring. While it was still in place it was baggy. I got some clear heat shrink from j tech and put it on and its now knock free

Small update on this. I had a listen to the knock with a stethoscope today, it seems to knock from both legs but possible the air side was the loudest of the two so decides to strip them down and inspect both sides. I couldn’t see anything on the rebound/compression side, everything is tight. The air spring is a cheap setup the piston just rests onto of the shaft, the only thing I found was the heat shrink on which I suspect is a negative spring was abit loose, it can make a tap noise when it hits the plastic collar which is help inplace with the c clip, this does the travel adjust.

Anyone see anything I can’t?

Hopefully this picture works

To the members using a hope mount, do you just bolt it directly like this?

I have some on my voodoo bizango. They have been a bit hit and miss but I’ve got them fairly decent now.

The lowers are not lubricated with oil but grease. The wiper seals also where dry from new. They also had alot of top out knock. The knock was due to the air piston design, the piston is not fixed to the rod that bolts to the lowers, the piston tapping on the air shaft is bloody annoying, lots of grease between the two sorted it. Also cleaned the grease out of the lower and added 15ml of 10w oil. Bit of ptfe around the lower bolts and have no leaks. I use it for cross country and no gnar and after the above mods its been ok

Quick update, I brought the tool as was only £10, it isn’t the correct one for this fork so did the same as above, rebount shaft tapped out with a socket. The threads on the shaft are larger than the tool so it’s no good for pulling the shaft back into the lowers

The travel adjust isn’t the same as what I’ve seen on YouTube or the cotic video, it’s adjusted via a c clip on the air shaft which is hidden under heat shrink. Got the travel changed and back together, I locked off rebound and tapped the lowers with a rubber mallet the get the shaft to seat more in the lowers and the air side I just added air and guided the shaft into the lowers with a small screw driver

I paid using the same account I usually use. I’ve gone through my emails and non mention about payment after delivery, I had not heard about it before it was commented on here. One of the payment mentions the money will show in my bank account within 3 working days

Went for a ride round my local today, a mixture of short road sections, gravel tracks and some single track which is a mixture os hard packed, sand with lots flint thrown in for good measure. Perhaps I would be better of with a decent pair for xc tyres rather than looking towards the gravel bike tyre options? Perhaps a racing Ralph and a racing Ray? I have some some older Ralph’s and they where very think and the flints cut them easy, since they like £45 a tyre I’m reluctant to try them again. Hopefully the pictures work.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/185077520@N03/shares/tb472i

https://www.flickr.com/photos/185077520@N03/shares/e5J5t9

Just out of interest what’s wrong with the wtb riddler?

Morning, I’ve have protection and black chilli tyres before and they where great. I did invisage somthing with slightly more central tread mind.

Where did you get one? Unfortunately orders from j tech have been delayed a week

At the moment in trying to avoid boost. Its a superstar v6 hubs and they don’t do any end caps to convert it so would be the washer type adapter, the v6 front hub is a pain to fit at the best of times with its loose fitting end caps
Thanks for the offer regardless

I’ll give it a miss then. Be nice to mount the remote to my hope brakes but ultimately I want a nicer lever throw as the brand x seems to have so much throw

Hopefully my order from j tech should be sent this week so I can try them in my revs. Even more curious now since there seems to be mixed reviews

Does it feel harsher than before in the start of the travel ?

Many members had much riding with the 2021 air shaft? As above I’ve seen a few people say it makes the fork harsher, does exactly sound like an upgrade and now half temped to cancel my order, its not been dispatched yet

What’s the lever throw like? I have the latest brand x lever (the not so flimsy version), only complaint is its for a large amount of travel to operate the dropper

Are the skf low friction seals in the link the op gave the same as the green skf low friction seals? The green version usually sell for more than that whole kit

No mention of fleet care and mechanics. Someone had to keep the ambulance, supermarket delivery vans and other key workers vehicles on the road

Thanks. Did mtbr have an article online covering this or was it in a mag? Will do it this week
Sam

I’ve a uberbike bb on my voodoo bizango, one spacer (no idea on thickness), no play, bearings spin smooth and been OK since fitting in September. Only issue I did have was grit easily got between the bearing and plastic cover which made some interesting noises

I’ve a 2019 boost revelation 140mm travel. Will this fit? On the drop down menu on j tech site they don’t list a revelation? I also found this when I shopped around for a charger damper for my fork. Any idea?

Rockshox Debonair 2021 Air Spring Upgrade

I fitted the damper in January and it’s probably covered 300miles on new skf wiper seals, would they be OK to reuse of I dropped the lowers again for best to replace?

On my 2019 whyte t130s I found I needed to space it out alot so that it didn’t hit, I didn’t like it like this so I decided to just put the edc bump in my hip pack with a tube. I have two bikes so what ever one I have I’ve always got the tool and pump in my pack. It’s the smaller version of the pump and fits inside a dakine hot laps stealth just fine. I’m very impressed with the tool and pump itself just done actually mount it on the bike, only downside would be if I got a puncture I wouldn’t be able to quickly get a bacon strip out in a few seconds and plug the hole like on the one up promotion video 😂

That said Ive seen someone with a carbon s150 and that fits fine without hitting, I think the wider the downtube the better!

Bump