Nice looking build! Do the Di2 parts you have not dictate whether it will be 10 or 11 speed? My plan for budget TT bike this summer is to stick some pursuit bars and a front brake on my track bike….

Almost certainly, but agree with Mosey. An XT upgrade is really pretty affordable if you must have 11.

From speaking to Sam it sounds like the Kite his a great bike as well.

Well he would say that wouldn’t he ;-)

To be honest, if you are running Di2 the Kite is not particularly designed with electronic shifting in mind. I have been thinking of having a go a setting one up with Di2 because I can envisage a nice solution with cables inside some stainless tubes, but haven’t done so due to time and money constraints…

You eeally need to compare ett or reach, seat tube length doesn’t dictate overall fit.

XL Swift really too small? 640ETT. How tall are you?

Very much depends on the original quality of the bike as to whether it is worth doing up. It’s not a marque I’ve ever heard of.

I’d be seeing this as the perfect opportunity to move somewhere there is no wifi and the riding is great. Remote cottage in the highlands perhaps?

@bumpy – yes I will do, drop me a line.

I’m a little biased (OK, more than a little…) but since riding the Kite disc I’ve had to re-think my answer to the ‘if you could only have one bike’ question. I like it, a lot. And I think once we get some folks out on them they will too :-)

Cook dinner
Ride the rollers or do some yoga
Clean kitchen
Read or surf the web
Sleep!

Another vote for Genesis Flyer. Or if you might need a big size and don’t mind some redundant downtube shifter bosses get a scorching deal on a Singular Osprey…

work out what gear ratio would work to allow you to ride it singlespeed with no tensioner?

Magic ratios are a complete PITA if you want something that is going to be long term reliable and hassle free.

Read Grant Petersen’s guide to bike sizing and get back to me :-)

My assessment of your job suggests you earn this much, which would definitely mean you could afford to buy a car costing more than the one I see you driving.

Reminds me of when I had a job and turned up at a corporate golf day in my rusty M reg Transit – I got a few ‘what the hell are you driving that for’ comments…

If you like the lugged steel old school of the Chesinis and you take a 51 or 59 I can do a scorching deal on an Osprey…

No ebb on the Kite. Retail will be €749 / ~£560.

That looks fantastic Rich! Did you really get tent and big sleeping bag and all in those few bags?

Glad to see you are getting out amongst it Kenny, hope to be up your way soon.

Been down this road in the past and always ended up just leaving a couple of pairs of normal shoes at work.

If you want something racey the Genesis is hard to beat for something off the shelf.

If you want discs and room for big tyres then could be worth considering a new Singular Kite disc? Available Feb 1st.

In real mud I’ve not been amazed with the DW in 29+ flavour. I rode with some guys on CX bikes recently in real muddy conditions and they were doing the classic cutting through and finding traction while I was slithering around on the top. I keen meaning to try some Maxxis Shortys I have on wide rims. I reckon they could provide a bit more cut through while still giving the cushioning of a big tyre.

Finding the 27+ Bomboloni very good all-rounder. Still has a bit of a skating on the surface feel in really goopy stuff but nice and predictable.

Another vote for Stan’s Alpha’s. I’ve been using them (in 28h F&R) on the good bike for the last few months and am really impressed. Not tried tubeless on them yet but intend to once I wear out the Corsa SCs which are on there – though I do love those tyres….

The benefits of B+ are IMO twofold:

1. More volume gives better cushioning
2. More rubber on the ground gives better traction

The 2.8 WTB’s win on the first count, not so much on the second. The width of the tread is no more than a regular 2.4″ tyre (this was intentional so that it would fit most any 29″ frame) so you don’t really have any more rubber on the ground other than that you might gain from running lower pressure thanks to the higher volume and use of a wide rim.

A 2.5 doesn’t really cover either base of significantly more volume or rubber on the ground. Not saying that means they can’t be a great tyre, just that you can’t really put them in the same bracket as true plus size >2.8 tyres.

That said, with the proliferation of new >2.3 tyres on the market at pretty much every increment all the way through to 5.0 it can only mean more choice for riders and everyone has a better chance of finding the tyre which is right for them!

That does look like fun Bruce!

My latest 27+ build – new Swift happy to run either 29x~2.5″ or up to 27.5×3.25″

Just some slight tweaks to give ample clearance all around B+ tyres but it’s basically the same as the last version of Swift which was designed solely for 29″ tyres with lots of clearance and able to run 29+ up front. Another of the benefits of the EBB is that it can be used to adjust for small changes in wheel diameter.

Agree with Nemesis that most of the + size stuff leans towards the fast rolling end of the spectrum – but no reason 24+ couldn’t have its own advantages on the right bike.

Always Stihl for me – can’t remember the model designation but I got the second from cheapest a good few years ago and it’s been faultless. As above, always drain and use fresh fuel, and keep the chain sharp and lubed. If you are not familiar with how to use one then a course is a very good idea. It was quite funny, when I was buying one the guy shop insisted on showing me how the hand guard brake worked bu had it the wrong way around…

Dunno, but he has some cool shoes[/url]

Pad wear

And the logic to rting a rim for disc use is pulling spokes through the rim? Or what?

Yes, exactly, I have had some lightweight Reynolds rims crack at the spoke hole and the explanation given was that it was because it was used with a disc hub. This was quite some time ago though I have to admit – i.e. before discs were becoming in any way common on road bikes. The fact they were being used as mtb wheels probably didn’t help…

Rims are/aren’t disc rated?

Some rims will specifically say whether they can be used with disc brakes, and some exclude it. If it’s got a brake track, it’s worth asking the question.

how deep are the rims? That is the main factor IMO. I wouldn’t have any concern riding a 20h disc wheel on the road so long as it was a pretty deep rim – say over 40mm, and not too heavy a rider – say under 90kg. Plus as above the rim should be rated for disc use.

Especially with the advent of discs on ‘road’ bikes everything is really just on a continuum from road race to mountain bike, with tyre size, geometry and braze ons to fulfil different needs as required. There is no need for strict categorisations. Saying, ‘this is a gravel bike’ or ‘this is monstercross’ is not really helpful.

Strada Biancas are such awesome tyres – to ride as well as look at! Also available in black for you Houns….

Or go one better in the volume stakes and try the Compass Barlow Pass 38 if you have the room!

I believe this is why we can get stuck up next to a curb. It would seem obvious that you could just steer way. But you can’t as to turn away from the curb you need to start by turning towards it. But you can’t do this as the curb is in the way

Exactly, that’s why you need to consciously shift your weight out to the right in order to get away from the kerb. Ben is right, everyone does it to a greater or lesser degree. On a bike it’s not a Scandinavian flick because you are not sliding.

11 speed stuff is nice but as you say 10 speed does the job. Don’t forget that unless your wheels have 11spd compatible hubs you are looking at new wheels too, which is often a deal breaker. That’s what’s keeping me on 10spd, multiple sets of wheels which are 10speed only… On a purely performance basis (i.e. race results) you’d have to say no. On an overall feel and pleasure to use basis only you can decide whether the few hundred quid for upgrading is worth it.

Been a fan for a long time – as this is Singletrack, I will keep it dirty…

Liking the Bombolonis as a decent all rounder. Despite low knobs the soft compound and sipes make for good mud performance.

Well, there aren’t that many races left, but yes, CX tyres will be quicker on typical UK CX courses – plus you’ll have teh benefit of enormous mud clearance. I think I saw a massive blowout on tyres on Planet X the other day, think they had some Vittoria clinchers which are a nice tyre.

depends on the 27+ tyre. There is a big difference between a 2.8 WTB and 3.25 Vee. Measuring your frame and comparing to published tyre widths should be pretty straightforward.

If you have to stand up occasionally because your bum hurts, it’s a flat ride.

If you have to stand up occasionally because your legs hurt, it’s a hilly ride

That’s a nice definition.

It sounds like it is an integrated headset which is the only non press fit type. In any case, sounds like it’s time for a new bearing. Some types of crown race (like the Cane Creek you linked) do have a plastic lip on them to help keep out some cack. Have you been removing the seal from the cartridge bearing to pack it with grease? That is probably not helping maintain the integrity of the seal. Also one of those crown mounted fenders may help less water and muck being blasted straight at the lower headset bearing by your wheel.

Because they slap a new set of wheels in barely tweaked frame and hey presto it’s a new model.

As above, I can’t think of many cases where this has actually happened. And even if it has, does it really sell any more bikes, or just a bike which may appeal to a certain user more than another due to the parts spec? Choice is good, I don’t understand the ‘evil bike industry marketing conspiracy’ argument. If you don’t think it’s for you, don’t buy it.