It’s not really the same situation but my mother had a complete anterior and posterior spinal fusion (sacrum to neck – front and back) about 4 years ago. She had very severe scoliosis and had been suffering from a great deal of pain for years. In the end the curve in her spine had caused many of the vertebrae to become unstable and weak meaning that a partial fusion would only place unbearable stress on the remaining ‘free’ vertebrae. Her surgery was in the region of 15hrs.

The reason I am telling you this is that, despite the extent of the fusion, as a women in her 50s she made a good recovery and is now suffering a great deal less pain. She has almost zero mobility in her spine, but despite this it has improved her quality of life no end. It’s incredible what can be done and she has been assured that her back is stronger than it ever would have been before. I’m sure it will be fine and I hope you get the results you want – I’m sure you will.

I went from contacts with clear glasses to prescription transitions oakleys. TBH, I could never ride without glasses over my contacts anyway – I just found that my eyes/contacts dried out – so there are no real disadvantages in comparison, and the transitions lenses are fine. Based on my research people generally find a brown tint beat for riding. It’s what I have and it works.

Just be aware of a few things about them. They don’t work in the car – they will stay clear as there is no UV. For this reason, I’d go for a design that looks alright with clear lenses. My Oakley Scalpels look daft and that’s an understatement. Nice to be able to wear them in the pub/cafe or whatever too. If you ride in very bright conditions (chance would be nice as I live in Scotland) then be aware that they can take a minute or so to lose their tint. So, if you go from bright open hillside to dark woods then they can struggle to keep up. I’ve never had a problem with this in practice. Perhaps in the alps. Depending on your prescription you can be quite limited on choice of frame with many simply being an insert behind a non prescription lense. This is because Sunglasses generally have a bigger curve to the front of the frame which makes them unsuitable for higher prescriptions (it distorts the vision). I’m +3 in one eye which is beyond Oakley range. I found an optition that would make this to order claiming special techniques which would get round this. Not so. Stick to manufacturer specs on limits. Mine are bearable, but they are only .5 beyond what Oakley do.

I have health insurance through work so I get glasses essentially for free up to a yearly limit, but otherwise mine were around 320 which for me is pretty steep.

Sorry for poor spelling…I’m on my phone with large fingers. 🙂

Hope that helps.

Recently had to call for a fairly bad injury – not me but somebody in our group – had OS grid ref etc. but the operator could hardly speak English and didn’t really know what we were talking about regards grid ref. When asked if she could check the grid ref against the map before we hung up (wanted to be sure we weren’t sending any crew on a goose chase as we pulled it off phone gps)we were told “I just pass it on, I don’t have any way of checking”.

We sent people to meet the ambulance at the road and they walked the crew in, who had left in a rush from a prior job and whilst they got there fast I actually had to supplement some of their kit with my own. They didn’t have any webbing straps for their spine board and I was using a synthetic conforming bandage to help secure the casualty – they were trying to use fabric adhesive tape! I was certainly glad I had a foil blanket and my own kit.

I have used my first aid kit in anger twice over the past couple of months, and at least four times over the past year – all riding bikes for fun. I’ll carry a torch on longer more remote rides but I always have the basics with me, without fail. Even if you can’t really do a huge amount to help in reality with a serious injury, having some basic kit and a bit of knowledge can make people feel so much more at ease and confident and that alone is worth the effort for me.

For what it’s worth the recent time was at a TC and fairly close to the road. The injury was as serious as I saw in ten years of working professionally in the outdoors. I think location has very little to do with it, with a few exceptions.

Happened to me the other day and for some reason I’d been signed out of my Google account, signed back in and they were there again. You’ve probably tried that though.

The posts above from headfirst, Edukator and russianbob sum up what I would like to say. I am amazed at some of the responses here. Educating children is one of the most important jobs in our society, whether voluntarily as a parent or professionally as a teacher. Why would we not want to treat people who do this important job well – why would we want them to ‘go find another job’ if they don’t like their changing conditions? It’s hardly going to help our children or society if we can’t retain high caliber individuals in the profession. Cutting off your nose to spite your face, perhaps?

I have – oddly I admit – a flow EX on the rear and an 819 on the front of my Enduro, so I can compare. I would definitely go for the Flow, mainly for the extra width and a much better tyre profile. I run Hans Dampfs front and back and they work so much better on the Flow. It really makes a huge difference to the performance of a tyre IMO (I know the HDs are really too wide for the 819). I got the 819 on a 20mm XTR hub virtually new for £40 of the classifieds though – hence the strange setup.

As good as the Mavics are in their own way (very stiff rim, hard alloy) I think the Flows are a definitely a better option. A rim like the flow using Mavic’s materials would be pretty unbeatable I reckon, but I’m not sure if you could build it as light using what may be a harder but more brittle alloy. Not that I really know much about that..

Hope that’s useful.

Really like that…looks good

You’ll be fine with pretty much any mtb tyre I would say.

Nice work. I thought the video was really good.

Yeah, they’re dead easy to bleed as long as you lose the o-ring from the caliper. Not that I’d ever lose the o-ring. No. Still, they’re not expensive to replace from CRC when, er, if you do lose them. So I hear.

I wouldn’t know what you’re talking about. 😀

Northwind
I’ve got 4 sets of K24s, the oldest is probably 7 years old, the newest just a couple. All been ace tbh, the older ones had a big of a design flaw in the lever, the threaded barrel for the span adjuster could strip. (and tbh the lever wasn’t a very nice shape either). That was changed later on though with a nicer shaped lever that doesn’t have that flaw, but is an utter utter ******* to fit…

I really rate them, I’ve upgraded to The Ones now but despite years of progress they’re still competitive with all the modern midrange stuff- better than Formula’s RX that replaced them in fact.

Only downside really is that the longevity and reliability of the design does mean some you buy will be very old and well used. Pivots can wear, and the rubber parts will be a bit aged, there’s a good chance that they’ll be on original seals as they last really well.

I would agree with all of that. I have been running k18s for about 4 yrs and had the issue with the lever adjust rod stripping (fixed with spare parts available from UK bike store) but other than that they have been good brakes and they are plenty light and powerful enough. I’m pretty heavy (105 – 110kg kitted up)and they do the job well. Despite others issues I’ve found them easy to bleed too, provided you do it right.

How well things go will have a lot to do with where you use it and how you plan for the weather. Inflatables are very sensitive to wind so look for a nice calm day in a sheltered location, with an onshore breeze if there is any wind. Make sure you have buoyancy aids. If you buy an inflatable make sure that the tubes inflate separately so that if one is torn you have some redundancy.

It’s mostly common sense really but provided you use your noggin they are great fun.

Don’t mean to be the bearer of bad news but there is a possibility it is the CSU (crown steerer unit). Mine made a clicking noise, particularly under braking or on heavier/faster compressions.

Thread

This can get expensive, so hopefully it’s down to something else but clicking is a good description of the noise made when the stanchions become un-bonded from the yoke. Good luck.

Servicing wouldn’t really have anything to do with it if this were the problem.

If you want flows then sell your wheels and buy them as Hope Hoops. Nothing to do with build quality – they are bloody expensive as rim only.

2009 SL in XL ‘gate’ size. Really like this bike – a great all-rounder.

From google, out of interest.

“Q.What does SRAM mean?

A.SRAM is the conglomeration of our founder’s names, Scott, Ray and sAM. The initials provided a simple way to come up with a corporate name that could be trademarked and directly translated into languages other than English. It is not pronounced S-RAM, SchRAM, or SkRAM. Just SRAM.”

b r
tbh As I stated above, I think its a combination of your weight, where you ride and low-ish pressures.

I run lower pressures than you and live/ride in the Borders, so plenty of rocks – and haven’t had problems with Ardents (ran them on the rear all year), in fact I’ve just worn the tread off.

Maybe also your rims are too narrow/wide – what are they?

You’re probably right although it’s still a bit disappointing. Anyway, I guess I may need to be more realistic about how light I can go tyre wise given my weight etc.

Rims were Mavic 721 rear and a Sun Ringle EQ27 on the front so not really that wide or narrow. I’m now running a Flow EX rear and an 819 front both tubeless with Hans Dampfs, so will see how it goes.

Just thought I’d update this thread to say that I finally went to the distributor, who told me to go back to the retailer – fair enough.

I took them back to the retailer who told me this was as a result of riding at low pressures but that they would send pics to the distributor to see if they would honour the warranty. The distributor came back and said that they also felt this is a result of running low pressures. I shouldn’t think I’ve had these at less than 35psi at any point. I’m aware of the Sale of Goods Act and so on, but TBH can’t be bothered to make a fuss and the retailer was pretty decent about it all.

Anyway, I guess the moral of the story is that if you want tyres you can ride in rocky terrain without them doing this then go for something else. Apparently the pressure range for these stated on the side walls starts at 35 (? haven’t looked) and the distributor was saying that if they are run out of this range then they wouldn’t be covered under warranty – I can imagine that most run tyres below this and that Maxxis know this.

I recently replace my entire 2×9 drivetrain…with another 2×9 drivetrain, including a rear mech. I’m too weak and Scotland to hilly to go 1×10 and other than that I think the greater tolerances in 9 speed makes more sense for me. It would also mean I’d have to have bought new shifters, but given the cost of the other stuff that wasn’t the deciding factor.

It will depend largely on your ability, but I was in your position and stuck with 2×9 as I had the same concerns as you about 1×10.

You may find the surge a little small if you want to use it as an all-rounder? I got one for my better half in the larger of the two sizes and I’d struggle with it – might suit what you want it for but just thought is mention it. I’m a bit taller than you and I’m very long legged.

dickie – Member
Went to a bike demo recently at Dalby & tried a Pace RC129, Santa Cruz Tallboy, Santa Cruz Superlight 29er, Santa Cruz TRc, Scott Genius 720 (650b) but the best & last bike I tested was a Scott Spark 920 (29er). It just felt right, light & capable.

I had a Spark on loan and agree that it’s a really nice bike which fits well between the full-on xc race type FS and a slacker longer trail bike. When locked out it was super quick on the climbs and it felt great descending. My only bike is a Spesh Enduro so I expected it to be lacking on the descents but I really liked it. I had a Carbon version with alloy rear end. Spark 30 I think. Well worth a look.

I have a 2009 SL which is essentially the same as the Stumpy Evo in the current range. I think it’s a great ‘one-bike’…bike. Climbs and descends well. Mine is XL and it’s a big bike but I’m 6’4″ and around 100kg without kit. I think the newer Enduros are slightly burlier and wouldn’t suit me as well. Depends what/how you ride though.

For my riding, if I was to buy a replacement I would go with a stumpy EVO.

Not being funny or anything but…are you doing it up properly? Have one on a Lyrik with no issues. Tighten into the fork threads by rotating whole axle, then use the qr type skewer to lock into place by rotating lever only and expanding the 20mm tube into the threads…

Sure you are…just that I’ve never had any issues and can’t see how you would with the design.

Definitely needs more stickers 😆

I had a Scott Spark 29er on loan and it was a great bike. I had the a carbon version bug I’d imagine you could pick an alloy frame at that price. Came accross as really versatile with good trail geometry as well as being more than light enough for all day xc. Think the alloy version is the Spark 40.

I got a Pacestar/Trailstar pair for about £50 and they are great. I’ve had OEM tyres in the past which were a harder compound and the difference between these and ‘proper’ compounds is pretty clear in my experience. Same with Maxxis.

Disgusting. My tolerance for drivers like this has dropped to about nil since having a child, whether I’m driving a car or a pedestrian/cyclist. Having the privilege of throwing a ton or two of metal around a crowded street is a pretty big responsibility and this is lost on so many drivers that you see day-to-day.

How it can be suggested that this is in any part the fault of the people struck is beyond me. Would I cross there with my daughter? Probably not. But that doesn’t change the fact that this would never of happened if the driver was not a total lunatic. I hope they are caught and jailed.

I think you may struggle to sue them. To establish negligence would be difficult I think…the decision not x-ray, based on your signs/symptoms seems not to have been unreasonable – especially given the agreement of the other medical professionals you spoke with.

I would be frustrated and a bit miffed too though, but I’m not sure if pursuing this through legal means would make you feel an better. If I were you I’d focus on feeling better.

Mongoose Supergoose – 85 ish
Amacco Freestyle – 87/88
Haro Shredder – early 90s

All most people will need is some plasters, tape, dressing. There’s no need for splints, quick clot dressings etc. If you have to deal with catastrophic haemorrhage then I bet you’ll all be wearing or carrying something to use as a tourniquet.

It’s called First Aid not Critical Care. Don’t over think it (K.I.S.S)

A decent First Aid course is a good idea, but leave the serious stuff to the pro’s (we do deal with it regularly), just keep them alive until we get there.

Does the use of a tourniquet constitute ‘serious stuff’? I think I’d rather carry and use a clean wound dressing to apply direct pressure than trying to tie off limbs with a muddy thermal. For the sake of what, 50 grams, it’s a useful thing to carry to deal with heavier bleeding, no? I can see you’ve said a wound dressing is useful.

I’ve done a number of ‘decent first aid courses’ and none have recommended the use of a tourniquet. Although, I accept that for professionals with the right equipment and training they might have a place.

I carry in a small WP stuff sac a large wound dressing, some non adherent dressings, few plasters, saline pods (good for flushing eyes and also cleaning wounds), a triangular bandage, conforming bandage, space blanket,some gloves, tape, basic barrier mask, painkillers for my own use.

I’m mainly concerned about big bleeds, supporting breaks and putting temporary patches on wounds to get back to civilisation. I think the whole lot weighs no more than a couple of hundred grams.

Obviously being competent/confident to use it is important.

I rinse my stuff before it goes in the washer if it’s really muddy. The amount of silt/grit which is rinsed out would only end up in the washing machine otherwise, and that can’t be good for it.

I wish I had worked harder at school. I left with no qualifications at all and became an outdoor instructor/coach, which was a great education in its own right IMO and something which I don’t regret. However, in my mid-twenties I went to university after having done an access course. I studied law at a so called ‘Russell Group’ university and got a 1st.

I’m really glad that I went to university when I was a bit older and when I knew that I was doing it for myself, rather than out of a feeling of it being expected. I gained a lot from doing it on a number of levels but I also feel that my life experience is at least, if not more, valuable

ryreed how did you pinpoint it to the CSU ? Just so i know to check whilst its apart!

Put the steerer in a vice (padded/rubber face) with the fork horizontal. Put a bit of pressure on the lowers, or to be certain take the lowers off and apply pressure to the stanchions directly. I heard a clear ‘clicking’ sound coming from the yoke.

I sent my forks into SRAM via a dealer and SRAM said that whilst the forks were out of warranty they would replace the CSU and do a service for their standard service charge (approx £90). What I got back was a new fork with my damper inserted. New CSU, air spring, lowers (and obviously bushings/seals etc). well worth the £90 to my mind. They were OEM on a commencal I had from late 2009, I had reciepts and photos of them installed.

HTH

Edit: yep, as per Loco advice above.

Hope it is the lowers. I had a creaking which was the CSU. Just out of warranty but SRAM were VERY good about a replacement as I was original owner.

So, so sorry for your loss.

I’ve just had my first child (11wks) and I lost my younger brother in a car accident on Christmas Day just gone. I was sad to lose my brother, but I was able to see how (now being a parent myself) how loosing a child is something no parent should have to endure. Again, so sorry, and my thoughts are with you. Take comfort in your loved ones and take care of yourself as well as them.

Truly a tragedy…so sad. Having lost my younger brother in an accident this Christmas I know that when people so young lose their lives that there is nothing that can make sense of the loss. My thoughts are with those who have lost their loved ones. Take care of each other.

There is a tool/fitting which screws into the end of the freehub body and allows you to flush oil/grease through the freehub, clearing out all the crap. My local wheel builder did this to mine and I was amazed at what was in there. Mine is a demon 2 hub and as said above the freehub is not user serviceable. Mine is still going a year on.

I think this is the type of thing http://morningstartools.com/Pages/FreehubBuddy.aspx

Waterproof
Spare layer – normally a gilet or extra thermal
First aid kit – wound dressings, bandages, saline pods, blah blah
Bit of gaffer tape
Foil blanket
Cable ties
Brake pads
Mech hanger
Tube and patches
Levers
Chain tool and powerlinks
Multi tool
Phone
Money
Water bladder
Food and a few gels
Hat and buff
Chain lube
Gear cable
Pump and sometimes shock pump

Yep, not a one off click from nitrogen in the joints but a click every time you extend your leg or put the power down on your pedals/climb a step? That’s what I get, and it doesn’t hurt. If it hurts get it checked or at least rest it and see if it clears up any.