The best bike I ever owned;
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Just a thing of beauty and craftmanship to see in the flesh. Forget Intense or any other 'boutique' crap, Brooklyn-made with love by Joe&Doc.

Or at least they were till Doc left to set up Superco and to leave Joe to make fashion fixies. :(

Superco silencer then but sell a kidney/wife/house now and get saving.

edit to add some more sex wee pics.
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Its safe to safe I had the Brooklyn illness real bad;
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59 times the pain

Thanks for talking sense to the clown bike owners.

The BFE is probably the closest Im going to get geo/build/stength wise and is definetly near the top of my list, think I'll go badger Cy.

Im an ex-bmx'er and DH er, my previous bike was a Brooklyn Machine Works Racelink for DH, and a BMW Park frame for general hooning around on. Before that were an Avalanche Racing equipped Norco Aline, , Spooky Metalhead,1st gen Chameleon, Zaskars etc, my current mk3 (IIRC) Cham was my XC bike thats taken over from the Brooklyns. I run it with Profile BMX cranks, & XT rear hubs because I've bent Hope axles before.

A 29er isnt going to suit me. It would die a horrible death. No full suss either.

Taller than 95% of the population, hating 29ers out of hand and wanting a cheap bike that fits you? Get real.

Oh – with the seatpost that high, most anything should be easy to loft the front on – but nigh on impossible to keep down on all but the most gentle climb. Your weight will be so high and far back you'll be the wheely king.

obviously my current set up rides like an absolute dog-which is why I want a similiar spec. Stick with your clown bike.

steve_b77 – Member

HOw about one of them Chumba VXL thingies

Looking promising in a large

neilnevill – Member

sounds like you might like a dirtjump sort of geometry (short stays, high front end)….only most dirtjump bikes will seem small for a tall guy and cramped for riding any distance. maybe get something custom made? Curtis perhaps?

Too expensive, allready had a look at them, thanks though.

Onzadog – Member

does the extra offset weight not effect the balance of the wheel at high speed????? (tongue in cheek)

NASA rocket scientist mode on}
no I drilled the hub for the grease nipple opposite the tyre valve so it actually spins better
{NASA rocket scientist mode off

as a country bumpkin, 4×4 are pretty essential. Further more, having a decent one with a decent engine such as the defender we have atm is worthwhile… why?

5) it's made of scaffolding and sheet steel. Very little hydroforming operations, or niche coatings, or exotic materials here! So, manufacture is not half as environmentally harmful as your modern estates, hatchbacks, etc. It may produce more CO2/NOX/SO2 from combustion BUT simple manufacture means that less cyanates, cyanides, bromides/ bromates, lead compounds, Al- compounds and many more are released.

…..and it'll still be around in 50 years time, whereas most ecomental 'disposable' cars need replacing every 7-9years.

Its possible to do it on BB's as well, but requires a bit more faffing around with a roll of shim steel to seal the holes that lead into the frame tubes from within the BB shell.

I used to have this setup on a previous frame when running external BB bearings-I dont have any pics though and my current set up uses a Profile Racing bottom bracket that dosnt seem to suffer like externals do so I've not bothered so far.

[/quote]Nice work there RustyNissanPrairie. How long have you been using the hub with this mod? Is a lot of grease required to fill up the hub?

Been using the hub like this for 10-12 months, just happen to have a camera on me yesterday whilst tinkering. It takes a few pumps of a large industrial sized grease gun to get it oozing of the cones, it is easy to get carried away and you need to bear in mind that more grease works its way out once your riding and you need to be carefull wiping it off on the disc side.

The thing is it's quite clear to me that at least round here you don't need a 4×4 even during extreme weather (yes we have had snow, and yes we have lots of untreated back lanes I'm using and plenty of hills), so when do you need one exactly?

…..for when you want to drive to Capetown. Try that in a 2wd. My bunny killer weighs in at just over 3.5ton in full expedition spec.

I once ran over a little fluffy bunny in my Landrover, will I still goto heaven?

er hang on, my Samsung Q1 tablet UMPC made 4 years ago thats now running Windows7 is exactly the same thing as this 'new' thing.

Wifes RWD MX5 with no traction control is fun in this weather-thankfully she knows how to use the handbrake as a TC aid to stop a spinning wheel and transfer torque to the other wheel (and not for doing handbrake turns!) and has been fine.

my 110 is 19 years young, it might or might not dazzle everyone else with its Mot'd, 'E' marked headlights, it has more carrying space than any estate I've ever owned, and to finally finish this planet off Im driving it to Capetown and no doubt killing everyone on the way. I'd love to do it in a disposable Jap/Eurobox or a heavy metal unrecylable battery powered fart box but I need the crash protection from any stray donkeys that might wander in my way.

let clutch out in 1st gear with no gas, gently apply a bit of left foot braking to help slow the spinning wheel and apply more torque to the other wheel.

A form of TC and works well on my landrover when stuck in mud.

Reverse up hills if its a front wheel drive car-weight transfer will help load the wheels more.

was told off a mast engineer or whatever there technical name is that some older 1st gen phones had been found to bugger up the flowmeter counts/readouts in certain brands of petrol pumps when being used and so banning phones from filling stations was one way round this.

I think most kit will last a long time if cared for and non abused, its more likely that fashion and trends dictate changing stuff.

skiboy – Member

I have a Landrover defender TUM FFR, 2.5D,permentant 4 x 4, purchased from HM armed forces in 2004, it does 65 flat out in 5th, on the tank so to speak.

but when it snows it comes into its own !!!

Same here but Winterised spec. Again 65-70mph flat out-will go faster but mechanical sympathay wont allow it.

once drove non-stop without sleep including the ferry, to Les-Arc, fuelled by nothing more than a full case of Redbulls, a large tub of Haribo tangfastics, and a large Costco assortment of Danish pastries.
Probably didnt do my innards any good but got there okay-ish.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: Why your prices are so cheap?

Q2:Are the northface fashion anthentics,100% originals packaged?

A: Yes,our northface fashion here are anthentic quality and 100% originals package. All theshoes are just directly stocked from container abroad like orders cooperated for wal-mart and so on.So there are various styles and enough sizes that you may have interest. And due to certain stocks from our own factory and non tax fees home and abroad,we develop our business enlarging cooperation broadly via sample offering and free shipping here, that is why the prices shown are so cheap. Just come on and catch a chance to enforce our development here.

too much Engrish going on, also EMS 6-8 day shipping-its DealExtreme branching out into clothing!
Fake-avoid

Moved in with the in-laws for a few weeks whilst gutting our house, that was 2 1/2 years ago and we're still with them! Virgin TV, 20mb broadband, got my own beer fridge, tea on table at half 5, garage for tinkering in, they wont take a penny in rent off us and love having us there! winner.

i wouldnt have thought so-im just down the road in Rawtenstall and theres still a lot of snow on the ground.

Brant;

Your right! the TT at the mid point is 32.5" running 2.35" Minions

Its the long headtube-but also the 3" TT/seattube drop that angle's the TT so much.

It does "look right" even if it offers not much better 'very large testicles' clearance in the middle of the frame.

The plans for the 19" with a dropped TT sound good though.

Brant

Evil Sov figures I got are off the CRC website

Running a 2009 140mm Fox32, I've not measured my frame-that sizes I quoted are according to that link to the 2004 SC website, its the 1st Chameleon model that started going away from the 100mm forks of the early US built ones-I think they built it around a 130-160mm fork, the webpage is via the webarchive time machine thing so not all the links work properly.

I do know the TT drop from the top of the seapost is nearly 3" I roughly measured it the other day. I can go measure the bike if you want?

Thanks for the in-depth reply Brant.

I do know my SC has got a long head tube (5.75”)-however standover is 30.5". I do like a high front end, Im running a 10mm stem spacer and 50mm rise bars! I've also machined the rear drop out plates to shorten the back end.
I can almost hear you tut tutting and shaking your head!
I do like to be able to pop the front easily for manualing through stuff and hopping stuff at speed and dont seem to have any problem carving the lower trail at Lee Quarry or the switchbacks at Gisburn etc, climbings fine as well. I do ride technical 'off piste' stuff and like the clearance to able to dab from the TT-a 29er isnt going to happen Im afraid.

http://web.archive.org/web/20030820030109/www.santacruzmtb.com/bicycles/chameleon/specs.asp

Regarding the 'extended seat tubers' the Evil Sov in an XL ticks the boxes, it has a shorter head tube than the Bluepig (allthough I'd have to run some serious stem spacers!)-slightly longer TT and of course massive clearance. It is though taking the piss at £600 and isn't homegrown-I'd rather support UK companies as you offer good products. I except you have to still run a long post to ensure its sits below the actual TT junction.

Like I said previously size wise the 20" Bluepig is right for me but the lack of clearance and the visual sizing are putting me off which is a shame as I like everything else about it-I've been trying to decide since CRC got them in stock and only registered on STW to help me decide. I think I'll keep the SC for awhile longer (allthough it has been battered and Im concerned about it cracking now) and keep an eye open up Lee Quarry for a few different sized Pigs and blag a ride on one and also see what you come up with next year.

Thanks
Kyle

edited to add;
"We're introducing a 17in frame next year to split the difference between the 16in and 18in – possibly a 19in too. And we'll be dropping the top tube a bit, at least – it's quite close to the top of the seat tube (that's a ti frame throwback)"

sounds promising!

Thanks for the offer Olie but it looks like an 18's too small.

There's a demand for a larger 26" wheel hardcore frame with plenty of TT clearance though ala Evil Sov, Transam, Alpine etc without going to 29", your Bluepig is nearly there in that aspect apart from the TT clearance. I love the Bluepig detailing and design though hence seeing if I could fit on an 18"

I'm not entertaining 29" wheels-I'm hard on bikes, before the Chameleon I was riding a lot of BrooklynMachineWorks stuff. Im using Profile BMX cranks on the SC.

ok, thanks for the replys.
Think im going to stick with the Chameleon until it breaks, as much as I love the detailing and design of the Bluepig-and it would be ideal for me, I just cant bring myself to buy the 20" for visual reasons.

I've dismissed the 20" Evil Sov-£600 for Tange cro-mo is taking the piss, the Transition Transam uses a hidden headset so is a no-no, and the Dialled Alpine is too small.

Brant-please make a 'Alpine-Pig' in a 20" but with a highly dropped and braced TT as per the frames above-its a nice little untapped market for you.

dumping it down with snow here in Rossendale, roads covered again! :D

my 110 overlander, fits plenty of DH bikes in stood upright;
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What were you doing with a tea urn in the front??

Tea urn? just because Nissan's demographic for these cars was tea drinking, piss dribbling OAP's who bought them for wheelchair conversions, dosnt mean that all of them ended up on Ebay with low miles and passed away owners.
That 'tea urn' was infact a cunning disguised chrome pedal bin to keep the bottles of Cristal cold in.
It wasnt nicknamed the Pussywagon for nothing…………

I had my money no object bike;
Brooklyn Machine Works Racelink, Avalanche Racing forks with custom carbon guards, Magura Gustavs, King Steelset, Thomson, LOTS of titanium, probably £6k ish…..

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……….then, bang, the bottom fell out of me & my wifes world, I sold the Brooklyn without having ridden it-but not because of financial reasons. A very sad moment packing into its new owners flight case to goto Norway. :(

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Im now back on my old Chameleon hackbike (shortly to be replaced by a Bluepig).

No more expensive bikes-there are other priorities in life.

had my Defender now for years but its times when the weathers like it is you remember just how good they are, running on Michelin XZL's its been unstoppable and has been the 'taxi' service for the people of our hill.

Kato – Member

what a beauty

yep, who says you can't buy style?

Not really, it'd torque steer into the nearest hedge, and because of the pillar less front doors and sliding rear doors would twist and flex all over the place, it wasn't too bad once moving, good for going to Glentress/Inners, riding and then back to Rossendale in a day.

a 1 litre refill can of waxoyl mixed with enough diesel to make it nice and runny and poured through a funnel via the BB and headtube areas, give it a good slosh about and let it hang headtube down overnight.

Did both of my Brooklyns as internal rust was the about the only thing that would kill a Racelink.

yep! wound the window down a bit to help with global warming, just too hot even with driving in my underpants and string vest.

Nice and toasty in my ex-military winterised 110 Defender, heated screen on, the 7 interior radiators turned on, arctic spec heater blowing away, the only car apart from the V8 Defender round the corner to get up our very steep hill.

anymore pictures of 20" Bluepigs?

yes Brant, the lack of a dropped toptube. I dont like running extremely long seatpost extensions, I'd rather have the seattube there to support it but also have enough crotch clearance for slow almost trials stuff and also for a bit of asthetics, allthough there are probably sound design reasons why you didnt allready do it.

However im comparing the Bluepig to my existing Chameleon and the BFE with their 'dropped' toptubes, and the Transition and Evil both with their DialledBikes-Alpine style dropped and braced toptubes.

Like I say the 16 and 18's 'look right' because they're small and squat, and look like a bike I could batter the absolute crap out of……apart from the fact they're too small. The 20" dosnt though-it looks a bit old school XC-ish if that makes sense?