The T Track bolts are hellish expensive, i just went to B and Q and got button head bolts that were the same size and thread (M5 or M6 i think) and washers (M10 i think) I had to file a small amount off the head of the bolt 1 – 1.5 mm so it would slide easily into place, i have run this set uo for over a year and a half now with no problems.

One of my mates did the same thing a month ago and he went to a local fastners and i think he paid a grand sum of £1.50 for eveything he needed.

looks to be the same thread as for spark plugs

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Spark-Plug-Thread-Repair-Kit-M10-x-1-0-/190495139908?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c5a652844

try here

http://rollersnakes.co.uk/home.php?cat=8353&Shoes £30 pair 2 for £50

loads of options on styles and prices

On the principle new rings usually means a new chain a sproket if what you have is all bedded in together i’d just keep it till it wears out then it is up to how much you want to spend at the time :D

Chain ring wise you can use any, i’ve used Race Face race rings, Blackspire chain rings, Deore, SLX and XT rings on a varity of cranks with Sram X7 X9 shifters and mechs.

no idea on suitable step form one ring to another.

This Roasted cod with cherry tomatoes, basil and mozzarella recipy is really tasty with boiled new potatoes.

So a bit of precussion engineering has determined it is the pump that is on it’s way out. A bit of tappy tappy with the engine on then turned the engine off and the light is out and the steering is working.

Ok, cheers for the posts

Steering fluid seems ok

I have turned the car on, wait for the light to go out then turn it over and the light comes back on again.

Steering is definately been affected.

I think it could be one if 2 things now:-

The Steering Angle Sensor or the Steering Pump its self.

Does any one know how to fault find the steering system to figure out which one could be at fault?

The two parts are not exactly cheep Sensor = £100 Pump = £300

no problem, good luck

Let me know how you get on

I would also recommend getting hold of a crows foot adapter for tightening the compression nut, the one in the following pic is from an avid bleed kit and it will fit the nut.

http://www.togoparts.com/items/view_item.php?iid=11091&did=0&cid=45

i don’t know where you could buy one seperately but try and borrow one if you can, they help as the nut ia a little fragile.

Nose cone is non essential, just a rubber boot to help prevent the compression nut corroding.

If you want to put this on then put it on the hose first before the compression nut, it will then slide up over the tightened nut to protect it.

Not all hoses have the same inner and outer diamiter. i do not know if the hayes bits will fit a hope hose but it may be worth a punt as they are not too expesive. Also if they do not fit they will be usefull spares to have and you can then go and buy the full hose kits.

Looks like for the Stroker ryde breaks you need 2x brass olives and 2 x compression nuts per break hose.

fitting will be:

slide compression nut onto hose with threaded side towards hose end
push brass olive into hose
offer hose up to lever or caliper
slide compression nut over the olive and tighten into lever or caliper insuring hose and olive are pushed fully home at all times.

This is how i fitted the hose to my HFX 9 brakes, I have not had or used Sroker Ryde brakes, just seen pictures so please do not take this as gospel.

Briliant, that has just brightend up my morning no end.

Jammy111

http://www.tftunedshox.com/Miscellaneous/Mount-Kits-and-Bushings/Eyelet-Bushings

peterpody has done guides for servicing rock shox forks on here and a number of people have followed them sucessfull in servicing their forks. I can’t speak from experiance as i am yet to service my forks but i will be looking to do it myself this spring. Your other option would be buy them from somewhere like Loco or TF Tuned and they should be able to set them at your prefered travel level.

What about some Rock Shox Sektor RL solo air forks, these can be shimmed internally down to 130, they are available in 15 and 20mm bolt through, reasonable weight and good price.

First one to say are we there yet on the journey to the games gets left in the car ?!?

How about this Identiti Mr Hyde it is a really tough alu frame, originally designd as a 4x frame but has adjustable dropouts so can be run single speed. Identiti just stopped manufacturing it in favour of a bike more all mountain orientated. there Dr Jekyll frame was a popular dirt jump bike the mr hyde is based on that with a slightly longer top tube.

didnothingfatal

That video is minging, i just about lost my breakfast.

I went down the route of a tigersheds security shed

http://www.tigersheds.com/product_detail.asp?prod=15

I put this on top of a slab base and in place of one of the slabs i installed a ground anchor that comes up through the base of the shed i then chain my bikes with a pramasis chain to the ground anchor. When i put the shed together i used screws, i then replaced 2 of the hinge screws on each hing with round headed bolts.

At the end of the day if they want in they will get in but hopefully it will take them long enough with what i have done i will hear them.

racefaceec90

It looks as though the cone shaped washer may be part of the headset! I have an old FSA headset cover for an intigrated headset(looks from the pic as though that may be what you need) which is flater. This would allow you to replace the cone shaped spacer with some standard spacers and would allow you more adjustment.

If you think this could be usefull send me and email, my address is in my profile and you can have it for free.

Brilliant try, fantastic skill from Evans.

scrappy game so far with some truely insiring cometry from Brian Moore :roll:

Popped my patella in my left knee 2 years ago trying to impress my girlfriend playing volleyball. I took it easy for a little while, concentrated on building the muscels arroung my knee with a good bit of flat riding in progressivly bigger gears with slow sticky tyres then steady mountain biking with my girlfriend. I the got back to doing my own thing and after a couple of crashes and no further damage to my knee i now feel it is well behind me.

my vote is a skills course. I felt i had reached a limit in my skill level, couldn’t get my head arround hitting the jumps in the fun park bit of my local trails, previously had managed to clear some of the table tops then 3 stacks in a month over the same jumps and no matter how hard i tried i just couldn’t do it. Went to a skills course and was cleaning jumps twice the size.

The shock can work either way round, I own an Iron Horse Mk iii, if you look on google images for it there is stock photos of the bike with different mountings of the shock.

Sometimes it is done as with different frame sizes it can be hard to get to some of the controls on the shock if you mount it one way over the other.

Somone with more knowledge may go into unsprung mass affecting shock performance marginally so you can get better performance one way rather than the other but i never really got my head round it. so I generally stick to the simple explamation

sorry for your loss monkeychild try and remember the good times

Above my skill level then i’m afraid, you could try emailing Simon at locotuning he is on this forum quite a bit and seems a really friendly and helpfull guy.

Try HERE. Third from the bottom. :-)

Get your line rental through Sky as well for an additional £11/ month or something. My girlfriend has the same package and it has work out really well. She needed the line connected and Sky did this as well but for only £50-60 instead of BT @ £120 ish.

Cheers for the email Smarty have replied.

After looking at the exploded views on hopetech it does look like a bulb hub. arse.

confused now, freehub seems fine however the bearing mounting points seems different the axle is larger so the id of the current bearings is too small

right then scienceofficer i’ll accept being a girly pants if you can tell me how to get that bearing off?

there is no lip to hit like on the video as on the 12mm hub there is a larger adapter held in place by a cir clip like the 20mm front hub.

Real hammer not a rubber one and some life treatening blows and i now have this
[/url]
pro 2 in more bits[/url] by RussellMacnamara[/url], on Flickr

Thank god my neighbour down stairs is deaf or he’d have killed me by now.

sorry that the pic is on it’s side but you’ll all just have to pick up your laptops and turn them to see it the correct way.

The bit of aluminium at the bottom is hollow and i’ve been smacking hell out of the axle poking out the top as per the video and nothing

[/url]
pro 2 hub[/url] by RussellMacnamara[/url], on Flickr

now have the pic on flikr what do i do to get it on here?

Watched that video 10 times now tonight, 1 min 20 in damn him he makes it look so simple. AARGH

Have a pic on my memory stick how do i get it on here?

I have the hub balenced on a thick walled bit of aluminium tube 30mm tall supporting it round the disk mount which should mean all force i am hitting it with should be going through the axle. To hit it the other way i would need to put somethin in where the end cap goes and i’d be hitting aginst the face of a bearing which doesn’t look right.

alpinestar you are right, i would be hacked off if i damage it but i don’t know if the lbs will have more luck it seems pretty stuck.

Anyone sent one back to hope?