kudos100

I know exactly where you are coming from, I have been able to get my head around it for learning to manual and can see all the steps i need to take to bunnyhop in my head I just need to get out on the bike and practice till i get it.

kudos100

pulling up on the barrs without yanking is the bit i need to sort out, lifting the back wheel is pretty much covered by RealMan and pastcaring. I also kind of hook my toes round the pedal.

davidtaylforth – Member

You dont need to.

I definitely need more control over them than I have right now, I figure the bunnyhop bit will be easier if I can manual for 2 seconds rather than the 1 ish I am getting just now. Although I am intrigued

I have my credit card linked to paypal for buying. Every purchase has been treated as a purchase not a money transfer.

I can do the yank on the handle bars go strait up in the air type, and i know the principles behind a proper bunnyhop (the one that you kind of manual into then pull the back wheel up) however have not yet perfected manualing so that on is a little bit off yet.

could you re-polish then spray them with a clear top coat to help protect them?? or heli tape

Top hats + through bolts = mounting kits

I would recommend trying to source some replacement mounting kits before going to the expence of replacing the shock especially if you have a jammed bolt in one of them. There is a couple of sets on ebay that my work depending on the age of your frame.

below is a link to TF Tuned that my help explain my jumbled ramblings

http://www.tftunedshox.com/info/mount_kits_bushings.aspx

[edit] here is a link to a heap of bushings from TF Tuned, hopefully one will be the correct dimentions, if you do not know the size you need they may be able to help you out.

http://www.tftunedshox.com/Miscellaneous/Mount-Kits-and-Bushings/Mount-Kits-127mm

I am no expert but you basically have 2 parts that need to match up to fit a new shock to your frame, that is the shock (this should have the same shock length and stroke as the previous shock) and the mounting kit.

The pic in this add has the mounting kit still in the shock eyelets
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fox-Float-RP23-Rear-Shock-6-5-x1-5-165mm-x-38-4mm-/190546766668?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item2c5d78eb4c
The bushes sit between the shock eyelet and the mounting kit.

If you have a shock with 12.7mm eyelets you will have the specific mounting kit for that size. I think the other size is 12mm so if you get a shock with 12mm bushes your mounting kit will not fit and vice a verse if you have 12mm mounting kit and get a 12.7mm eyelet shock it will wallop about like a willy in a shirt sleeve and be all but useless.

My advice would be speak to the guys at TF Tuned, Mojo or Loco as they will be able to advise on the best replacement to match your frame as well as insuring there will be no incompatibility issues.

what he said ^^^^ easy

build something simple, a boat, a car, a bridge and do a little talk about forces forces in = forces out etc.

Make a little light (dissasemble a torch) and explain how it works.

THIS may be another option.

Are you sure the problem is with the pump?

There is a common problem with VW and Audi brake sensor switches (the one behind the pedal), this can display its self in a number of ways. On my VW Polo i had the ESP light come on, on a friends Audi A4 S-line he was forced to stop and get toed to a garage as it was linked into the cruse control.

This switch is cheep to replace (less than a tenner) if it is the problem when the brake pedal is presed the brake lights do not light. I had this problem intermittantly so be prepared to check a few times.

Good luck

Please include me in the re-draw. This seems like a better excuse than most to get back out to the canary islands.

I’ve used Dolmio stir in sauces in the past and been presently surprised by the results. 1 big bag of pasta and 4 tubs of stir in sauces did 4 people for 2 evening meals at T in the park. We had drinking water on hand at the camp site for boiling the pasta, if you had to carry this as well it could be a little awkward

Andy the simple answer is Yes

If you put a top and bottom external cupped head set onto a 44mm id headset a 1.5 inch strait steerer can be used.

Nuke proof make head sets like this currently with extended inner lips but i was lead to believe by brant they will be releasing standard length headsets similar to the cane creek ones in the not to distant future.

back to the tread, does this now mean On One have now come up with a second solution to the issue with a re-worked top hedset section or the extended lower crown race?

Woooo hoooooo I won something and the possibly real gold :wink: skewers to boot.

Just replied to your email DezB

Congratulations on raising near as damn it £500

Dez, YGM good luck have a good weekend

Check out

http://www.oilcareers.com and

http://yourjob.ajl.co.uk/ – This one is linked to the Press and Journal and Evening Express the local papers here in Aberdeen. Have a look around and see what people are looking for.

I’m new to the offshore game and work as a surveyor which is mainly office based with offshore trips but what I heard from guys at the offshore survival and on the rigs I’ve been to was it is easier to work your way up when you have got some offshore experience. It is not necessarily what you know but who sometimes and as word gets about offshore as to what you are capable of then it is easier to progress.

When doing the offshore survival as you don’t know where you will be going it would be wise to do the euro basic course (this add a skyscape escape to the learning) as it will be required for Norwegian waters. The medical is generally considered a bit of a waste of money as the vast majority of companies will put you though one as a formality of joining (this may not be the case if you are planning on going self employed/ adhoc).

If you are training at Petrofac and going for a deal with accommodation the nicest was at the great western hotel, they also put on a free bus from there out to the training centre every morning and collect in the evenings.

I really like the looks of the 2 new full sus Voodoo bikes, they seem to have a solid spec and simple but effective look to them. If Halfords can make them as popular as the bordman bikes then i think they should have a good future.

Any of you guys had lithotripsy for them? I hear stoys from the other side as my mum is head of the Litho department at the Western in Edinburgh.

I quite like the looks of the new voodoo bikes also from halfords

Voodoo Canzo £999
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_786815_langId_-1_categoryId_165499

Voodoo Zobop £1499
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_786853_langId_-1_categoryId_165499

Last time my full sus frame was creaking i replaced the suspension bushes (the eyelet ones in the shock) and it stopped, i was convinced it was my raceface made of cheese bottom bracket but that is still holding up fine after 2 years!?!

Stroh, never never again.

what they say ^^^^ Giant Acid

For best exchange rate take english pounds and exchange to polish zloty at one of the many exchange shops that are there (Krakow). I did this a year ago for a stag do and got a free meal out of the difference in exchange rates, just remember to ask for a receipt and check the print out and cash given before you leave the shop.

Hamilton to do Vettel at the start and Webber to take the opportunity to punt Seb off at turn one to wipe the cocky smile off his face.
Petrov to finnish 4th and spoil Alonso’s day.

I have a VW Polo, similar size to the Fiesta and i use a thule roof rack and bike carriers which work fantasically. I used to have a bike rack that secured to the back of the car but it never felt any where near as secure as the roof rack. Wheels off i recon i could get 2 bikes in the back of the car and store the wheels but kit could be an issue.

I’m sure you can manage the rest. Just remember to select BBCode before copying and pasting, i always forget that bit.

Fluted down tube
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P2270483[/url] by T*inbred[/url], on Flickr[/img]

This is where i started from:
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Flickr
Flickr follows the same rules as above but they have added a button to retrieve the BBcode.

?Find the photo you want on flickr
?Above the photo there are two boxes “actions” and “share this”
?Drop the menu in “share this”
?See “grab the HTML/BBCode” and click.
?See two buttons below the script, “HTML” “BBCode”
?Check “BBCode”
?Paste this code into the Singletrack forum post box

mrmo

below is Kaesae’s emiail address, he serviced my Iron Horse a month ago and it is fantastic now.

kaesae [at] blueyonder [dot] co [dot] uk

If you can give him the bearing numbers there is a very good chance he can get the bearings you need if he doesn’t have them already.

To my girlfriend they are known as The Green One and The Black One, to my mates they are known as The Identiti and The Iron Horse or Mr Hyde and Mk III.

My limited knowledge on this has lead me to believe the charge protection is built into that PCB. I would not be charging it or using it just now as you may be able to salvage the cells. Too much charge or discharge will knacker them.

I’d go to http://www.mtbbatteries.co.uk/ and drop an email to Smudge and see if he can help you out.

We use Loctite 243 every day at work. To loosen stuck bolts we use a hot air gun to heat the bolt. give it a smack with a hammer (the shock seems to help break up the Loctite) then loosen it. We have stuck metal parts in an oven before as well to get then hot enough to get a screw out.

You could try again with the soldering iron, remember you will need to get that bolt so hot you wouldn’t want to touch it, then put the T30 in there and give it a good tap with a hammer. If it doesn’t twist out after that i’d take it to the shop.

Al I don’t see how a micrometer screw guage is relavant in the slightest for this application. You use the calipers to measure the depth of possible cup insertion. The frame will be 44mm ID the headset will be the correct OD for the frame, the measurement of concern will be the insertion depth which the claipers will allow the op to measure accurately enough.

Specs online will most likely tell the op he has a 44mm head tube which unfortuneately doesn’t mean it has 44mm ID for it’s entire length.

jonah tonto

If anything i have written doesn’t make sense my email is in my profile i can try and explain it in a different way.

I have done it, depends on frame as to whether machining is required.

I have an iron horse MkIII and bought the Nuke Proof headset

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=60615

To allow me to fit tapered Rock Shox Revs. For my frame the lower cup was too big, it had a 20mm flange and my frame would accept 10mm of insertion. I got the machinist at work to pop it in the lathe and he took the outside edge of it down to 10mm and tapered it up as per the original design. It took him 5-10 minutes max, cost to me was a packet of chocolate biscuits.

At some point in the future I believe Nuke Proof will be selling the non-oversised flange models but I have no idea when.

One thing I would advise getting is a set of digital callipers like these from Lidl on sale from tomorrow so when it comes to you taking the parts to a machine shop you will have accurate, measurements for them to work to.

http://www.lidl.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg/lidl_uk/hs.xsl/index_19198.htm

damn no evans near me

psa = public service anouncement

what about these?

http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/WPDTE2200/dt-swiss-e2200-wheelset-(pair)

meribelmtb

This was posted up in another thread this morning. If you do not already have work stands this combo offer from Merlin could be just what you are looking for

http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/Bike+Shop/Workshop++Tools/Workshop/Workstands/Bike+Tools+Workstand_BIKE-TOOLS-WORKSTAND-MASTER.htm

Warranty return???

Otherwise do you think you could drill the head off the bolt to remove part 332 and part 412, you would then be left with the stub of the bolt in the seat tube but some of the pressure would be off it. It then may be possible to grab the stub of the bolt with some mole grips to twist it out.

If it is only 3 months old and you have a warranty on it, it would be best to return it encase you damage it in trying to free the bolt.