as i said i know nothing, good luck in gertting it sorted.

I no nothing about programming but should the last five squigly brackes be closed, closed, open, closed, closed? they seem to be open then closed round certain sections of code above

I know when i bough my first flat in Scotland my solicitor with held some of the sale money untill the boiler was serviced and found to be in good working order. It cost me £387 for service, repair and gas safe cert for the boiler so my solicitor re-imbursed me that and gave the sellers the difference.

Flat was sold with gas central heating, which would seem to mean it is sold with safe and working gas central heating. The flat i purchased was empty for some time before i bought it hence why i got the work done then was re-imbursed.

I would guess that you could ask you solicitor to request this information as a condition of sale which puts the onous back on the sellers, they simply have to prove the boiler is in a safe and good working condition and meets all requirements at cost to them.

A couple of years ago I dislocated my knee and damaged my patella tendon. Not as seriously as you it just stretched rather than tearing but it took the NHS a little while to get there act together about assessing and treating it so I had 3 weeks of doing nothing and the muscles in my leg wasted away to almost nothing.

In Aberdeen there is quite a good NHS physio team, they gave me a heaps of exercises to do to help strengthen my leg. Most of these involved a resistance band (a massive elasticated band) that was used in various ways to build specific muscles to help strengthen the knee. They also put me on weekly sessions on a ultra sonic machine thing (yes that is its technical name as far as I am concerned) which was to help break up the build up of scar tissue.

I would really advise against trying to run on you knee as the repetitive shock forces of running are really bad for recovery. Once you have got the full range of motion of your knee back I was advised cycling was a good exercise for it as it is low impact.

Basically my advice would be try and see a physio, as SBZ says any good physio should be able to give you a detailed program of exercises to aid recovery. If you are in the UK your GP should be able to refer you to one, if you have any private medical insurance through your company or maybe a bank account use it to get some.

Good luck with your recovery.

have you tried typing his email into google to see if anything turns up?

OOPS double post

You may want to have a look at this web site

http://www.reuk.co.uk/Shed-and-Garage-Solar-Lighting.htm

I was looking into making my own system for my shed with a couple of LED strip light and a flood outside with a motion detector. I may also wire in a desk lamp lamp on my work bench.

Lots of stuff on here worth a look

http://www.torc-anchors.com/index.php

drifting_james

Before you go shopping, have you checked under the fridge for it yet?

Take remaining bolt and crank arm to local fastners and pick up a replacement for pennies.
From the shimano tech docs it calls for a M6 x 19mm Bolt & Washer. This is not a standard size however M6 x 20mm is and 1 mm extra bolt length will make no difference as the crank arms are tapped all the way through. The main thing you will need to get corect is the type of head on the bolt, let them know you want one to match bolt you have and to fit in the crank arm and you will be sorted.

[edit] The above figures are from an SLX chainset [/edit]

when i copy the properties of the pic and open it in a new window all i get is Unauthorized. I’m guessing you have some kind of privacy setting on the account or picture that means it will not work.

What about this Lapierre Froggy?

Dunno if it is the right size but well within budget

For a grand look at the Bordman Team FS and the VooDoo Canzo at halfords great spec for the money.

For a bit more look at the VooDoo Zobop and Canyon Bikes Nerve XC 5 (120mm of travel) or AM 5 (140mm travel).

wwaswas

I think you have it right, there must have been some underlying rust that has initally weekend the seat tube so much so that the blasting has then gone right through. I’ve seen this happen on boat parts my dad has been cleaning up.

What suprises me is that with that number of hole in the tube they went on to coat it, it must have been clear before coating the tube would need to be replaced. Your frame builder is now going to have heaps more work to do strip back the fresh coating and brase in a new seat tube rather than when the frame was bare.

Cheers for the speedy reply. They seem to have the same part numbers in the exploded views so i’m presuming they are the same but will check with them before i buy.

messiah

Do you have a front as well as a rear?

Do you know if the standard Pro 2 adapters fit the Pro 2 Evo?

[Edit]I know the rear adapters are different but am unsure about te front[/Edit]

bloomin nora how many work mates do you have??

would this help reduce heel rub or simply just peel of after a few rides???

I guess it depends ont he stuff you use and how well it is applied.

At the end of the day would it not be preferable to replace some heli tape every month or two to extend the life of the cranks.

what about these chaps

http://www.18bikes.co.uk/

they seem not too far from sheffield, i have no idea about transport to where they are but as they make frames i’m sure they could sort you out

If you have no luck getting one quickly, a few folk off here have bought parts from these guys and shipping was reasonable quick and price only 15-20 Euro for a set of 16 depending on what spoke it is you require.

http://www.bike-components.de/advanced_search_result.php/keywords/mavic%20deemax/limit/40

Would you not be better off getting something like this instead?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=51070

No machining required.

Don’t really have a favourite tour rider, but I do enjoy watching it and looking out for the British riders, however Johnny Hoogerland is a name I am not going to forget in a hurry after yester day, a particularly super human effort to finish after the accident. I just hope he is able to continue and compete for the king of the mountains.

on chainreactions there are some deals to be had on some of the Cove bikes.

Possibly some thing like this may be waht you are looking for.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=32014

Feel free to drop me an email and make an offer, at the end of the day it is just sitting in drawer.

Different manufacturers use different sizes. Some based on metric sizes some imperial. For example 203mm = 9 inches.

By using different sized rotors it means the roters are not nessicerily directly transferable between brands so if you change manufacturer of brakes you also need new rotor and mounting hardware too. basically meaning more money for them.

mboy

replied to your email

Rusty

I called M and S before getting my insurance through them, they were very helpfull. I wanted to check about storage in a shed and the guy I spoke to seemed to know alot about the policy and reasured me it would be ok and i would still get the same cover.

What happened to our Friday night build thread ?!? :cry: i feel robbed

Did you buy pro 2 EVO adapters for a pro 2 hub?

Glorious sunshine in Aberdeen now, no really it is.

That’s never a Kona

Cracking pics, lovely looking bike now pick a hill and get out there and get it good and dirty.

enjoy

Rusty

Apologies for the tread hijack

If any of you are looking at getting a front hub I have a 32 hole 240s hubs for 15mm with centre lock and a mavic adapter CL to 6 bolt that I was keeping to build up as a wheel, however this is looking less and less likely so I may as well sell it on. My email is in my profile if you are interested.

Apologies again

Rusty

Something like these*

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-2008-fox-float-36-forks

would leave a tidy sum for some second hand Hope Hoops all mountan wheels. You may not get flows but depending on how demanding on rims you are you could get a nice set of pro 2 on DT Swiss EX5.1 or EX500 rims or Mavic EN521 rims.

*Disclamer, i have nothing to do with the sale of these forks just noticed them the other day when trawling through the classifieds.

First ride with clip less pedals I was out for a gentle ride along an old railway line with my girlfriend and fell twice.

First time we stopped to grab a drink and I forgot I was clipped in que falling back onto tarmac track legs flailing around like a turtle turned on it’s back.

Second time we were approaching a road and one of those zig zag fences to stop you cycling strait over the road, I was following my girlfriend at this point and she decided on the down slope to the fence that she couldn’t cycle through the gap and stopped in the middle of the trail, this time I rather abruptly fell into the gravel at the side of the trail getting cuts up my left shin and knee.

I had the same thing tonight in my shoes and crank bros candy pedals. I am new to the cliped in thing and felt that the pedal didn’t quite feel under the ball of my foot so have moved the cleats a little to see if that helps.

What i am trying to get at is could the position you are in on the road bike be causing you to put pressure on a different part of your foot than when you are on your mountain bike. Different angles etc.

This could be utter rubbish, as i said i am new to cliped in but it is just a thought.

I put a shed up at mine last summer. I installed one of THESE in the base. I used 3x2ft slabs then replaced one of the slabs with a 2x2ft and a 1x2x2ft hole full of concrete, granite stones and the ground anchor. I built the anchor up a inch or so above the level of the slabs so it would sit flush with the base of the shed and cut a hole in the shed base for it to come through.

I made the mistake of not letting the concrete set fully before building the rest of the shed around it and kicked the anchor while putting up one of the walls, all this meant was it was able to rotate a little in position but it would not come out of the ground. I back filled the top of it with cement and it is now totally solid.

My plan is to get a Pragmasis or Almax chain to lock the bikes with for total security.

Other things i did was replace one of the screws on each side of the hinge of the door for a button head bolt so the hinges can’t simply be undone and the door opened from the other side.

My shed has 2 small windows, 1/2ft high by 2ft wide which I have made opaque by securing an old shower curtain over them, can’t be seen through but still lets some light in.

cheers for the reply neninja.

Have just had a look at the add again and have possibly found there shop in cornwall (ties in with the detail in the add). Going to email them and see if they have anything to do with the ebay add and ask about the shoes.

Really like the look of the mondraker bikes, would have the foxy in the green of the RR in a heart beat. If my iron horse MkIII ever dies it will be a tough decision between a foxy and sticking with the dw link design on a five spot.

congratulations to the winner, well done again Dez, hope you got a few extra pounds to top the £500 mark.