Stans Arch mainly for down hill use that could make a costly mistake!

Have a look at mavic en521 rims if you want tough enduro rims for a pretty good price. Loads of reviews on them on CRC.

Or i guess ex721 or ex729 for the more downhill rims and depending on what size tyres you want to run.

If the bearing from the other side os ok could you use that to press out the remaining bit of bearing? if you sand or file down the outer race a litle first so it is a loose fit in the frame(check this in the good side) then use that to press the stuck bit out.

Mowgli

one of the res spokey ones from my link above is what you would need 3.25mm nipples.

I use these the pro version has the double metal insert which is worthwhile over the single. Had a park 3 sided one and hated it, rounded off quite a few nipples with it, never had a problem with the spokey ones and at the price they are it is not such a PITA when you loose one.

Red is the standard one and Yellow is te bigger one, exact sizes are given if you know what you need.

Hope hoops regularly sell on the forum for £ 130 -£175 depending on the rims and condition, if you can hold out and put a few more pennis by it may be worth while waiting for something like that.

The main reason i suggest this is for the serviceability of the hope hubs, in general they are quite easy to work on, service guides and videos are all over the place and spare parts are redily available.

The parts you describe are the bushes, the metal parts that support the shock are genrally known as the mouning kit. The bushes are a disposible part so that you don’t trash a £200+ shock with un avoidable wear.

The link bighendo has provided and the suggestion by ruscle to go to BETD are good for parts however the fitting kits they sell require to be used in a vice for removal/fitting of the bushes. If you search on eBay for Fox Shock Bush Tool you will see there are a few peole making them that can be used with a spanner and alen key. Replacement of the bushes is fairly easy. As with ruscle i inspect the bushes every couple of months and generally replace them every 10 – 12 months.

If you are interested, my email address is in my profile, drop me a message and we can sort something out. Would also concider selling it for a few pounds if you would rather keep hold of the mtb one for spares.

I can be done if your road bake has an british threaded BB which is the same standard as MTB bottom brackets, some road bikes have italian standard BB tubes so it would not work in one of thoes.

If you are interested in a swap i have a road centre tube for a Hope BB in my spares bin not bring used and could do with a MTB one.

^^^ what he said ^^^

I see they have put a new lid on it! That was my main grumble about mine. The old style is like the cap on 3 in 1 oil which is why mine no longer travels with me (oil in the boot of your car is not much fun) briliant for the shed though.

You could do alot worse than simply buying some from Smudge. He made a batttery for me last year and it has been great, he even put 2 cables direct frm the battery so i wouldn’t need to bother with a splitter cable for my lights. Very decent chap and I am more than happy to recommend him.

Linky to Mr Smdges web site and the 18650 batteries

Main weight will be in the fork, try and look for an air sprung fork for an upgrade.

Do you have to remove the wheels often on the bike as that can throw the disk brakes off, otherwise when the ones on my girlfriends bike are set they are set. I you want any advise on how to get them set up drop me an email my address is on my profile. I am no expert but should be able to give you a few pointers to help make them easier to live with in the interim period.

From your pictures i would definately keep the giant frame, it looks a much better frame than the CB.

I am suprised you don’t rate the disks on the giant. In general cable pull disks are better than V brakes. My girlfriend has Hayes Mx4 cable pull disks on her bike and they work pretty well.

Wheel wise i would keep the ones that are on the giant for 2 reasons they are disk equiped for upgrading later and with the 24 speed (8 speed rear) you would be able to upgrade to 9 speed at a later date.

Forks, yes both are made by SR Suntour but the ones on the Giant look more modern. They will probably have different internal, ride both bikes and see which feel better. A little chain oil on the stantions of the current giant forks should help them feel a little smoother.

Basically what i am suggesting is try to sell the CB and then spend what ever you have set aside and proceeds to primarilly get the giant up and running (some new or new to you shifters and mechs) then upgrade as and when you can.

Good luck in sneaking one out of work, we had a couple of guys take them from my last work to use them as water butts for their allotments only to be told bring them back or pay for them as the company pays a rolling deposit on the bottles. Water costs £2 but deposit on a bottle is something like £25.

[edit] the other thing is the ones we used didn’t have lids, just a thin plastc sticker type thing ovr the top that was pierced when put on the chiller [/edit]

postierich – Member

Will post pics of bike in build progress.

Where are these pictures you promised ???

New bearings, they are sealed bearing units in the Pro 2 unlike cup and cone in say a Shimano XT hub.

I’m sure there will be videos on youtube on how to replace them. plenty of sellers on eBay with bearings for pro 2 hubs.

[edit] I’m sure it said Pro 2 hub when i first read it if it is not a pro 2 ignore everything i just typed [/edit]

Smudge from here who makes batteries is stocking magicshine style lights at the moment, on one of the other threads he was saying these are of a better quality and come with a uk charger. Link below

http://www.mtbbatteries.co.uk/4.html

What about something similar to the front mud gards people make from old innertubes to stop the mud from the front wheel flying forwards then you cycling into it.

Secure innertube to seat rails with 2 small cable ties then to the seat tube just below the top tube with one larger cable tie (this could possibly be combined with the cable tie most people seem to put there for routing the remote hose).

If you want I am fairly confident I have two sat at home not being used (40mm wide rather than 30mm on the drawing but shouldn’t make any difference). I made them at work when i was intending on building the stand. I then moved jobs and no longer had access to tools for doing the wood working sides of the construction so ended up buying a second hand stand from ebay.

I also should have the black plactic somewhere as well if you have not already sourced it.

Email is in profile if you are interested.

I just built my first set of wheels a few weeks ago, I went for DT Swiss Competition spokes (double butted) and brass nipples. I wanted black spokes and also needed a nipple driver so searched around for ages and in the end got it all from Rose Bikes as they were way cheaper than any one else and still a good bit cheeper after the £5 delivery charge.

They sell spokes in packs of 20 and nipples in packs of 40 so you will end up with a good few spares which was good for me as i managed to knacker 2 spokes in the lacing process and 2 nipples when truing. They sell alloy nipples too in various coulours but as it was my first wheel build i wanted the durability of the brass ones.

Delivery was pretty quick, i ordered friday night and they were delivered tusesday morning with a free mug :-)

May have been a little hastey in my innitial just cut them out.

It could be a worthwhile but time consuming task to use a pair of pliers or mollgrips to grip and undo the nipples to save the spokes if they are in a decent condition. This would then mean the minimum purchase of spokes(thoes that simply won’t come out) and nipples which are only pennies.

If the nipples are rounded or seized the only way to get the spokes out is to cut them.

Be carefull when you do this, the spokes will be under tension and may ping out. Wear safety glasses and gloves and try and support the spokes when you snip them to avoid letting them go flying.

continuity – Member

I go for a normal trail ride, and I come back and the o ring is as far as it can possibly go. No drop offs, just rolling singletrack.

From what you have written it sounds as though you have an issue with the shock or it hs not been set up correctly.

Have you followed the following guide from trek for setting it up?

http://www.trekbikes.com/pdf/2010/suspension/remedy.pdf

for your forks you should be able to get setup guides fromt he Fox website.

Hope have got a great how to Video on there website

http://www.hopetech.com/page.aspx?itemID=SPG219

about half way down the page called

How to – Rebuild a rear Pro2 hub

have a quick watch and see if anything strikes you as being different.

The freehub is held in place by the end caps which hope call the drive side and non drive side spacers (from diagram above). These are normally quite a tight fit with the o-rings contacting on the axle (hence removal using a vice). Also when the hub is in the frame these will be held in compression by securing the wheel.

Did you use the hope tools for assembly or sockets? There is a possibility that the one of the bearing in the hub is not seated properly causing the axle to bind.

Also if you click on the pic foxy posted there is step by step instructions on servicing the hub.

See exploded view of hub in link below

http://www.hopetech.com/webtop/modules/_repository/documents/PROIIREARassy.PDF

Did you remember to put part 9 back in? The 2mm barrel spacer.

Or it could be the seal part 10 if that was not seated properly.

Fire in Croydon is well scary, really hope no one was in any of the buildings, fire wen’t trough them so quickly. Way way to strong for that first engine that turned up, but can’t believe it destroyed the entire block and is spreading.

Created table with names now a little unsure where to create the combo box. Do I create it in the front screen or do I go through the button to the report and create it there ?

Have a look at East Coast trains – they do a sleeper train from London to Edinburgh then it would only be an hour on a second train to Glasgow, they often have offers on early booking up untill 2 weeks before traveling. Also if you are under 25 concider getting a young persons rail card http://www.16-25railcard.co.uk/online . The rail companies web sites will show you the discount you get by saying you have one so you should be able to tell if it will be a worth while purchase (save more money by buying one than the original ticket price) it would be valid for a year so if you plan on getting around the uk it could be a very worthwhile purchase.

HTH and you are having a good trip

Rusty Mac

The neeps are a good bunch, take a look at their site for an idea of what is arround. To keep your mega happy i’d have a look at Pitfichie and Bennachie.

trout ta muchly, that link works spot on

mau00149 have a look at smudge’s site http://www.mtbbatteries.co.uk he makes top quality bateries using higher quality cells than the DX batteries and has a good reliable charger, there has previously been issues with the dx chargers.

Cheers smudge, it will be to replace a battered lumicycle bag so if your ones are cheaper than the one on their site then it’d be spot on.

Facebook link doesn’t work but I will find a way to follow you.

Battery bags you say, for the larger longer battery you make? Didn’t see them on your website this afternoon! after which i spent hours trawling ebay to no avail.

What kind of price will they be?

andyl

if you mean the mrcentralheating prices i am fairly confident the pricees include VAT, the round bubble with the price in it a the top of the page says incl VAT

lol @ al

http://www.mrcentralheating.co.uk/

If you have a qualified plumber that will fit it for you then the prices from mrcentralheating(mch) are hard to beat. if you look through the website they also do a shower that looks impressive for the money. If you need radiators i am told what mch class as a double is more like a 1.5 but apart from that a friend who bought from them was very impressed.

As for brands Baxi are very good (5 year garentee), Worcester Bosch are also very good (3 year garentee), Valillant are good as are Glow-Worm and i know nothing about the others. I am not a plumber but i have looked into this in the past. I would recommend doing a quick google search of the model numbers before you buy and there should be reviews for you to get a better idea

no need for the isopropyl wipes just use plenty of water :-)

Glad you managed to get the brake sorted, have you gone back and made sure that you have throughly cleaned the bike where the brake fluid possibly made contact as the dot fluid is massively corrosive and could wreck the lovely finnish of your frame or fork.

Putting that into the spoke calculator i used last time i get 257.2 for LHS on a 3x pattern and 259.7 RHS for a 3x pattern 258 and 260 are common sizes and should work ok I THINK ;-)

Is it the bit like THIS you mean?

Could you bodge a replacement from a plastic wine bottle cork cut to size and a hole drilled in it then slice it in half and secure it with a couple of cable ties?

I am presuming part of the problem is the shock needs completely ripped apart to replace that bit?

I think they are great for getting all thoes little bits, the website can be a little confusing but i was plesently suprised when i called them and go speaking to somone who genuinly knew loads about all the bits they sold and was open and honest about delivery times. phoning them is definately best but i’d happily use them agian