hora can the 5 spot take a 203mm rear disk? It is a trail bike after all!

I would have thought you would have plenty of power with a 183 disk on the rear.

I am of a chunky build and use a 160 rear disk!

looks like others had the same thought as me but can type quicker or ramble less :wink:

do you know about mtbbatteries? smudge on the forum runs it and his prices are very good.

By the looks of it the Lupine battery is 6 cells creating 8.7Ah and 7.2V

Although not advertised on his site if you drop him an email through sales@mtbbatteries.co.uk you may find he is able to make the same battery you require for less than open-light.

fit some wood round the side to make a frame

=

gravel boards

get the top edges of them level then fill with concrete then use big plank to tamp down to level of the top of gravel board would be my understanding

FYI

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/price-drop-fs-maverick-duc32-forks-and-wheelset

That sounds pants, but i’d kind of side with Nicolai as the damage looks due to neglect to maintanance.

I would however be having some serious words with the people you bought the bike from as i woulod seriously doubt it is solely neglect by yourself. It doesn’t look like they have done any real maintance on it at all, maybe repaird the odd puncture or 2.

Hopefully Nicolai come back with a favourable price for the repair

There are paving slabs in the background, do you have any more?

When I put up my shed i laid a base of slabs that i got free from freecycle and put the shed on that.

I removed the lawn in the area i wanted then went down an inch or so into the soil and leveled the groundand stamped it all down so it was a firm base (we have quite sandy soil up here in Aberdeen so didn’t see any point in digging out more to put in a layer of hardcore) i then back filled the hole with an inch or so of sharp sand so it was about 1/2 inch below the level of the grass then laid slabs on the top so they are about 1/2 inch higher than the grass.

I made the base a few inces wider than the shed to help stop the grass growing up onto the shed making it damp.

Smudge from mtbbatteries sells an XLM led version of the DX Light (a more modern LED than the cree P7) for £67 he claims these are higher quality than the DX ones. I have bought a few things off his site and the service has been fantastic so i’m confident in recommending him. His ligt comes with a UK charger and warantee from a UK company which in my oppinion is worth the little extra.

If you go to this page of the torc-anchors site it gives you the break down of each of the chains and locks.

http://www.torc-anchors.com/products.php?cat=8

13mm solid secure gold for a bicycle
16mm 19mm solid secure gold for a motor bike

Here is a link to a thread i started a month or so back about stands as I didn’t have the tools to build the wheel pro one from the book.

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/talk-to-me-about-wheel-truing-stands

If i hadn’t got such a good deal on the second hand park stand i would have gone for the Unior stand roots1 gave the link for in conjuntion with the alignment tools Roger makes in the book.

I got the wheelpro book, and it is good for following through for building wheels. It dispells alot of myths. One of the other good things is he has a few online videos of stages that you can go and watch if you can’t quite get your head arround the pictures in the book.

£9 for the book IIRC then a sneaky print out at work on your lunch break, job done. Use the money you saved to get a better stand or if you have the toold biuld the stand in his book.

I wouldn’t be driving the car much more than a mile or so untill it is fixed.

Do you have RAC or AA cover? possibly through a bank account or car insurance?

If not buy some tonight. Then when you get the confirmation email through call them in the morning. Make sure you take the one where you will be toed to a garage of your choice.

This should avoid totally knackering the car trying to drive it 30 miles without knowing the coolant level or real temperature.

Remember you will most likely have to push the car a couple of miles from your house to make a claim possible.

If your car turns out to be totally shot then atleast in future you will have someone professional to call out when these things occur.

have a look at pauls cycles sometimes good buys to be had there

http://www.paulscycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b0s2p0

+VE air valve is located at the top of the right hand leg as you look at them like the pic in the link below (the leg with the disk mount)

http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/Bike+Shop/Frame++Forks/Forks++Shocks/Rockshox+Suspension+Forks/2011+Revelation+RLT+-+140mm+-+20mm+Maxle_RS-REVELATION-RLT.htm

There is a black cap with + VE marked on it with a diameter of about a 5p coin that you will need to unscrew to access the valve.

-VE air valve is located at the bottom of the same leg (the one with the disk mount) and has a small metal shrader valve cap with -VE on it.

Instructions as mboy suggests have never failed me for a ball park setup.

Can’t comment on the bikes but i have bought parts from them in the past, evrything went flawlessly. ordered on Friday night or Saturday and parts arrived Tuesday morning with a complimentary mug. They are now one of the first places i look as they are often cheeper than some of the big names over here.

Top man Smudge.

Now I just need the other folk from that there ebay to be as quick in sorting out there orders as you are.

Hopefully i’ll have my modded Lumicyle halogens converted to LED thanks to trout fully equiped with RC motor heatsinks held in place with thermal adhesive for Wednesday evenings ride!

Hey Smudge,

Saw you put them on your site, just bought one this evening. :D

As I kind of elude to in my email it depends on what you want out of the job, if you are used to the global corporation thinking and the BS that goes along with it then it may be a good job for you.

If you don’t mind being a number rather than a person and can take what they say with a bit of a pinch of salt and go buy your gut then it’ll be fine.

GE has its good points and looks good on a CV for future positions.

If you can take them for a bunch of training and move on somewhere for a better position in 2-3 years then it could be ideal.

I used to work for them, Oil and Gas in Aberdeen, quite glad i don’t any more. Aviation sector may be different.

My email is in my profile if you want further details.

knottie8

There has been reports of problems with tapered Rock Shox forks and the C456. I have not read anything about issues with Fox forks.

Smudge what is the news on the ‘proper’ battery bags? how long now, keep checking your website but not on it yet :cry:

stumpy01

During use is there any problem with heat build up with the units on half power?

messiah

That was the conversion i did last year to convert my 2 Lumi halogens and have put 830mA drivers in them both, one is XPE one is XPG. After some peopls over heating issues i was wondering about a mod to try and increase the bulk of the can to help with heat dissipation hence the stuff above.

rob,

Do you know how the anodising on the case and the heatsink would affect the performance of the thermal paste?

Trout,

For the latest conversion do you think adding the RC car 540 motor heatsinks to the lumi can will help with the cooling at all?

I was thinking about trying to fit one then drill through the heatsink and through the can into the heatsink of the LED’s, run a tap into it and then a couple of say 2mm screws to secure everything. That way there would be direct contact between everything but it could be a comlete faff for no real gain.

Any thoughs from any of the rest of you greatfully apreciated as well.

£67 for this may be marginally more that buying from dealextream or ebay but from previous experiance of the service Smudge provides i’m sure you would get better back up from him than either of the other two and this comes with a UK charger.

If they do not have hand made in germany but you still fancy giving them a bash then have a look here

You could probably get that lumicycle light for under £150 if you buy the clearance lamp from Lumicycle £70 then a battery £51 and charger £26 from Smudge at mtbbatteries ok so it does come to £147 but it is below the £150 mark

Wowsers Madfly, for the price of that vice you could buy 18 of the Machinemart ones!

I haven’t broken a vice and for the stuff i am likely to use it for with my bike i really thing the one i have will be plenty strong enough. but hey if it brakes it was only £25.

The Identiti bikes that have the ADS system could work for you, they have vertical drop outs but they can move horizontally in the frame. The drop outs are on separate bits of metal that then bolt to the frame. I have a Mr Hyde frame with the system and think it is pretty good.

I don’t know if you have a machine mart neer by but i got one of these

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/csvr100-100mm-steel-vice

which seems quite good value compared to some of the vices in Screwfix

Excelent i am a plum and you get everything you wanted without the faff i thought you would need to do.

I didn’t doubt the knowlege of the guys at 18 bike honest :wink: I have bought stuff from them in the past and they have been great i just thought the hope hedset worked differently from what it does.

Appologies for adding confusion to your thread. Enjoy your bikes a now slightly embaresed but fantastically envious Rusty Mac

Head tube length on the C456 is wrong unless you have a small. PeterPoddy has one and started a thread about it and the incompatability of RS tapered forks. I think the head tubes ar 95mm from memory but all measurements are in Poddys tread.

The reducer you have been recommended will not increase the A-C lenght. What i was sugesting was like a metal collar that you put into the frame first then press a standard lower cup into.

I would love to be wrong in what i think you are missing but i do not think by getting the headset you have been recomended you will be able to simply swap the forks between the two bikes without having to change the crown races.

The lower crown races sit very slightly inside the lower cup of the headset and the outer diamiter of the lower crown race on the Bottom 1.5″ Trad stepdown 1 1/8″ is going to be in the region of 49mm where as the outer diamiter of the standard lower crown race will be around 34mm.

I believe hope are like other manufacturers who make the headset so that to go from 1 1/8 to 1.5 if you upgrade to tapered forks at a later date would just be a swap of the crown race.

Did you say to the guys at 18 bikes you want to be able to swap the forks between the two bikes without changing the crown races?

I think matt from there uses the forum from time to time, maybe you could give them a ring back and direct them to this tread where hopefully they will call me a fool for my miss understanding.

Hey Sancho,

I’m based in Aberdeen, and am trying to get bike fit again, I have recently started to go to some of the ecurie neeps rides and am planning on joining the club as they seem a friendly bunch. my email is in my profile if you ever want to drag someone else round the hills. Loads of riding round Aberdeen and hepas of good info on the neeps web page.

cheers

Russell

trb

you need to invest in a camping stove and a tree :-)

akira

I can only presume you are trying to make plans for a modest supply of electricity from a solar panel on the shed.

I have read stuff on the net about home brew systems using a panel to charge a 12V or multiple 12V car batteries (in some cases free ones from the scrappy or your local motor faactors) that then go on to power 12v LED lights and a small stereo. Unfortunaely i do not have the links on my work PC.

I would really think you would struggle to set up a system to power any high drain electrical items.

I have preiously though of doing this but have never had the time or money to do it properly – not that it is necisserily going to cost alot but i am still in the process of decorating my flat and my man cave has been put on the back burner till i get the living room sorted.

If you need to trim the lower cup of the nuke proof one down and do not have access to a lathe then i have heard of people very carefully using a junior hack saw and a file to get it to the correct lenght. A machine shop should do it for a packet of biscuits or a few beers as it literally took my friend 5 minutes to sort my one.

If you have a zero stack headset in your curent frame where the bearings and cups are located inside the head tube of the bike. It is possible to fit tapered forks to your frame.

If your frame has a standard 1 1/8 headset with the cups and bearings external to the head tube it will not be possible to fit tapered forks in your frame.

If your in the position where you do have a zerostack / internal / 44mm headset arrangement then there are various headsets out there you can use. On my Iron Horse I fitted one of these nuke proof headsets. The lower cup has extended flanges for greater insertion to some frames however for my bike i needed to reduce them to 10mm (a friend with a late turned it down in minutes). This then esentially puts the lower bearings external allowing for the larger diamiter steerer. It will also slacken the head angle slightly as your will be lenghtening the A-C length, on my bike this was good as i felt the head angle was a little steep any way.

outstanding story, Amazing

damn dusty up here in Aberdeen too

In my opinion you would not be able to easily swap the forks between the two bikes. The lower crown race for the C456 will be larger than the standard 1 1/8 lower crown race on the 5 if you use a hope reducer headset.

It is not only the crown races you need to think about when swapping forks over, you would have the faff of setting up the front brake every time as well.

The only way I could think you would be able to do it would end up throwing the angles of the C456 out a bit. You would need to get a one point five to 1 1/8 reducer from the likes of BETD then fit a standard hope headset into that which would essentially make the A-C length longer by the depth of the headset say 10mm for arguments sake which could throw the angles out by a degree or so. This way you have the same headset in each bike running the same crown race allowing you to swap the forks between frames.

If you can afford to keep both forks and they are both in god condition I’d put the 150mm forks on the 5 then the 140mm forks on the C456 for no other reason than I’d prefer to have the longer forks o n my full sus frame that I’d be more likely to push harder through rougher terrain.