I’ve had some maxxis worm drive tyres on mine for commuting,they are 1.9, i’d think a 1.95 crossmark should be fine.

I think the new Pro2 Evo hub is converable at the rear just by the end caps, they certainly do not have a dedicated QR axle going by the exploded view.

The only thing is, for the price of a new Pro 2 evo rear wheel you could probably buy a second hand pair of Pro 2 wheels on reasonable rims to have a pair for each bike.

time to go to the loo/door/phonecall i think

I had problems with it last night, wanting me to add my name to a petition to support bike trails or something in the states. Every time i clicked the X it spacked out and would go into a constant refresh state.

Clicked on the X today and it let me say no thanks to the petition now it doesn’t come up again.

Tell him you can’t belive window suport centre could be so helpfull, you are so gratefull they have pointed out this massive amount of error on your pc and you would like to send them coffee and cakes from there nearest Starbucks, all you need is an address to give to Starbucks for the delivery.

tell him to hold on as you need the loo, put phone on speaker, go flush the toilet then just don’t pick the phone back up, go about what ever you were doing leaving him to wonder what the hell is going on.

Bumpety Bump,

With your boasts of

I’ve got a garage and a toolkit that would make some people here weep with joy

I got thinking about this tread. Any update on this Mr PP any at all 😉 ?

Thank you kindly mr god of all things Rock Shox suspension related 😀

Hey racefaceec90,

happy to help, looks like you have done a good job there! Good idea to get them checked if it is your first time, bike shop mechanics usually accept biscuits or jaffa cakes for these types of check up jobs 😉

freeridenick

The head tube is 44mm on the mega, it would be impossible to make an inset headset capable of taking a 1.5 fork.

Rusty,

I looked into this not to long ago and found i could buy the hope tools and the bearings for the same price as i could get a shop to do it for. There are heaps of videos on the net, Hope have some really good ones on their website. Have a look and see if you think you would manage as if you get the tools you will be able to service the hubs whenever they need it.

Cheers

Rusty Mac

Sounds like good service from Merlin there, they have always been good when i have used them.

I am pretty sure i got it in a CRC sale (I’m a Scotsman and therefore rarely pay full price for bits) and am more than happy to see it go to a good home for the price i agreed.

Just so you know, if the weather trashes the bearings in that headset it is possible to just buy the bearings for it in the future, well so long as the other bits are all ok.

Phil, This one is the one i sent you for mrsconsequence’s bike if you want to get a shiny new one for your bike.

what a lovely thought PP 😉

Hey Phil,

Glad that headset work out for mrsconsequence’s bike 😀 , one day i’ll make it down to one of your Swinley rides and catch up with some of the friendly sounding forumites from down that end of the country.

It will involve quite a bit of planning when i do as it i is quite a hike from the fine granite city that is Aberdeen.

Although Loco’s site says the workshop is currently closed, i think he is arround just now so the shop sides of the site may still be going, you could try calling to see if the parts are available.

Stayhigh I think you may struggle to get what you want at that price. Wood is not cheap these days and it is kind of an odd design you are looking for – not many people want the front the lower end as if it is raining it could be like walking through a waterfall to get to the door.

This shed from tiger sheds almost ticks all the boxes. But they have haeps of other designs that you may find better suited. I went for the Apex security one and it took an afternoon to put it up, for the price Tiger are hard to beat, the quality is good but the 12mm thick wood is not as thick as some other places use.

One other thing, how often do you use the bikes? if you shove them at the back of the shed it could get quite annoying trying to cary them over lawnmowers, BBQ’s, gsrden furnature and the like each time you want ot go for a ride.

How about some thing like THIS?

Put a ground anchor in when you lay the base for the shed and you should be good.

Just take your time, you can pretty much use that method on most bolts you need to tighten.

Do you have an L shaped allen key? without a torque wrench it all comes down to feel.

Best place to start is a bit of trial tighten trial tighten till everything does what it is supposed to. With Alu bars and stem there is a fair bit of tollerance for over tightening so i wouldn’t worry about going to far.

Basic technique i use is

1 – Always always start the bolts with your fingers – no tools, this will help prevent cross threading, you should alway be able to put the bolt in a good bit by hand. If you can’t get them in a few threads remove the bolt and insect everything is clean.

2 – Holding the short end of the allen key tighten the bolts in a crossing pattern top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left untill all the bolts are tight.

3 – Now change the allen keys to hold the long end of the allen key, this will provide more torque so you will be able to tighten the bolts more. Tighten in the same crossing pattern BUT ONLY 1/2 a turn at a time on each bolt. This is where the trial and tighten bit starts, if the bars still move then tightend the bolts by 1/2 a turn again.

When you are happy they are tight go for a gentle cycle and see how they are with a bit of weight on them then ride down a kerb or something to test they still don’t move.

By now you should have a reasonable idea of how tight the bolts need to be for future and you have tested it to check it will work in normal riding.

screws that held it together now have nothing to screw into

as in no threads left or no material?
could they simply be super glued into position?

The 2012 Reba RL are cheaper than the 2010 120mm rebas at merlin, infact the 2012 RLT’s are cheaper too. for £315 the RLt’s seem a good buy.

It looks like the correct race to me, I’ve had 2 of the FSA orbit z something headsets (one of the internal ones) and it was just like that.

When everything is tightened up it will move down a little on the lower crown race, also the bearing sits inside the cup in the frame a bit further reducing the area for ingress of crap. While the design is not perfect and there is a gap i didn’t have any real problem with the bearings in my headset, i got a few years use out of the first one and as it was cheep replaced like for like second time round.

Hope use a labyrinth ?spelling? seal on there integrated headsets which i think is a better design but for the price the FSA one is pretty decent.

When putting it all back together i put a ring of grease in the bearing cup, stuck in the bearing then did another ring of grease round the inner (for lower crown race)and outer edges.

If the bearings still feel smooth they are fine.

Seth’s idea of a o-ring sounds good if you can find one the correct size.

Scuse me Sir, Mr PeterPoddy Sir did you manage to get the fork guide finnished?

I’d be most gratefull for a copy Sir as i’ve been riding my Reveation RLT’s since spring and they could probably do with a service to keep them tip top throught the winter.

Ta muchly 😀

fudge9202

you may want to take a look at this thread, mrblooby has RLT ti forks spaced at 120mm

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/new-build-of-an-old-frame

mrblobby

was it easy enough to space the forks down to 120?

there was someone else asking if it could be done just a couple of days ago. I’ll try and point him to this thread

Bike looks very nice by the way.

Obviously Phil,

I’m just jelous as i meet about 1.5 of the key points :- age and can ride a bike badly as last night over the bars incident is testament to 😳

muppetWrangler

That’s cruel, maybe that can see some kind of styling potential in the quiff and gotee 😉

I’d say there is no harm in asking as long as it is done politely and respectfully as detailed above.

The 456SS is a very capable frame, and as you have already found a great all round bike, the build quality on them is pretty good so i wouldn’t worry about that.

If it was my money I would be considering a second hand full sus frame to compliment the hard tale but that is just me.

I own a Identiti Mr Hyde frame and have built it as a AM trail bike, they are very stiff frames which means although a lot of fun, for longer rides over rough ground you can take a bit of a pounding. If I was going to change frames I really really like the look of the BFE.

I have a full sus as well as the Mr Hyde and the confidence the full sus gives is fantastic.

That was brutal

I wouldn’t have thought it’d add much weight! as far as i am aware you are just adding plastic spacers. I guess it could be classed as a bit in comparison to air but in the overall scheme of things i would not think it would be much.

Try asking PeterPoddy, he has a set of 2011 RLT forks on his C456 that he has opened up. He has done a fair bit of servicing of Rock shox forks in the past too.

I know they can be spaced down a bit but i don’t know if they could be spaced down as much as 30mm

loddrik

Sorry you are struggling to find work, didn’t mean to rub salt in the wounds, i was busy typing when you must have repied.

what are your degree and masters in?

I guess i must have been pretty lucky, i got a degree in engineering and was fortunate enough to get a better job from it in 6 months.

I went back to uni at 26 to complete my degree evening classes, it was tough getting all the studying and coursework done along side a job but i made some great friends doing it. The sacrifices along the way although hard are well worth it in the end. Finally getting that bit of paper is probably one of the proudest days of my life 😀

Would the likes of a netbook be any use to him?

They are reasonanbly cheap theses days, they have 9hr+battery life on alot of models and with them being fairly small and light it could be carried around without too much hassle.

It would the be a case of loading the form while completing the job and typing the values as required, he could set up pre typed sheets in spreadseets or documents that all was required was enrty of the values. He could even use open office which is free to download?

If you drop them a small ammount it won’t make a great deal of difference if any, however in generalities if you drop the handle bars down a bit you will put a little more weight over the front of the bike.

just read the further posts, can you re-jig the stem spacer layout so you stick a spacer ontop of the stem to give you a larger initial distance between the top cap and top of the steerer tube?

From previous experiance you could even push that 3mm out to 5 mm, you need the upper crown race to seat fully which can pull the steerer tube up quite a bit.

My other thought is are you sure it is the headset? You could be getting movement from your suspension forks if the bushes in the lower legs are getting worn.

ourmaninthenorth

Sorry i don’t know how effective it is. But HERE is a link to thermawrap one of the brand name companies that sell the stuff and they have some figures that may mean something to you?

I just thought that it is light weight, doesn’t take up to much space and would be easy and clean to install so may fit the bill.