Seller can refund money through paypal and it only takes a couple of clicks, i think you still get charged the fees though. If you have to send the money through before you view the bike. I would advise you make the seller aware of this before you go and see the bike as if the money suddenly turns up he may simply think you have bought it before viewing and ar just going to pick it up.

Is there no way for you to take a laptop or something with you and ask to borrow the guys internet connection for a minute to transfer the money?
Ask if there is an internet cafee or a coffee shop with free wifi near by i think even the like of McDonalds do free wifi now. You could nip out for 5 minutes to transfer the money then come back and pick up hte bike.

Thanks all for the replies and the links, i realise these figures are all generated in ideal conditions which are unobtainable in a torch or lamp of any usable size for biking. I was just curuious as to what i was likely to be getting from my Lumicycle halogen LED conversion lamps i am running at the moment.

It looks like my brain is kind of switched on this morning as my innitial estimate of 900 ish on paper lumens is about right for the three LED’s. I’m guessing a more realistic value is going to be about 750 -800 lumens taking into concideration 20% losses (guessing at this figure).

One other guess into the facinating world of LED’s –
Mc-E LED’s they look promising from a curent in to Lumen out point of view but are they simply not that common because of the comparitively high voltages involved in generating the output?

Luminous/trout

I know your test didn’t run XPE/XPG led’s but what Lumen output can i expect from XPE/G leds run at 850mA? Is it that i run 3 of them at that current that i get a (presumed) similar Lumen output to a single XLM at 3 amps?

Oh and thanks for frazeling my brain this early on a Monday morning 😉

womble72

If you get a new boiler would your plumber not be able to return the PCB for the old boiler and get refunded for it?

if you go down the route of a replacement boiler then it could be a good idea to compare the prices to http://www.mrcentralheating.co.uk/ this may help you get an idea of who is trying to rip you a new one on the price of equipment. If your friendly installer will let you buy the boiler then getting it though mr central heating could work out cheaper.

As totalshell said a free quote from BG is not a bad plan.

Good to hear you managed to get it fixed, i guess it will give you longer to save for the Transition Convert you were drooling over on the hora’s next bike thread 😉

I got one from tigersheds.com, depending on where your NEW HOUSE is youm ay be within there delivery area. They have a massive choice of styles annd constructions so even if you can’t get it from them you could get some good ideas.

Binners is that the intense fixed?

Driving home home tonight after work to catch up with my Mum tonight then my Nana tomorrow, been ages since I properly caught up with them as it has been a busy year so really looking forward to it.

Hopefully my mum will have made her world famous sticky toffee pudding and as it is a Friday I’m sure she will have a nice bottle of wine open too.

Saturday evening I’ll catch up with my dad in the pub for a pint or three and his usual far fetched stories then a long lie Sunday with the clocks and go and congratulate my best mate and his fiancé on getting pregnant on my way back up to Aberdeen.

More of a happy weekend than just a Friday but I’m really looking forward to it making today a good day.

My thought would be it may be a better option to send the forks off for a profesional service if you feel there may be something wrong with the fork.

Tool wise you should be able to use the same ones for the revs as with the rebas.

Si at Loco tuning really knows his stuff and is a friendly chap so if you have any questions give him a ring. i’m sure if you describe the problem to him he would bea ble to advise if a genereal service is all the forks need or if there is something more terminal.

If none of the internals are damaged then you can buy seal kits from shop section on the Loco Tuning web site, he also sells fork oil which pretty much takes care of the parts side of things (presuming the spring is the correct one for your weight).

Tools wise have a look at the SRAM web site for the service instructions and you will get an idea of both what is involved in servicing your fork and what tools you will need.

Here is what seems to be the genuine stuff on ebay for a massive £2.25 deliverd,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fox-Float-Fluid-Pillow-Pack-5CC-/140624794112?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&hash=item20bde41200
Or if you want to stock pile then buy one of the small bottles for just under £12 deliverd
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fox-Forks-Float-8-o-z-Fluid-/280750647472?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&hash=item415e0ae8b0

At those prices why bother messing abut buying other stuff.

[edit] Just go to Loco tuning, a quick check shows he is even cheaper
http://locotuning.co.uk/suspension-oils-and-lubricants.html [/edit]

Link to pillow pack

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fox-Float-Fluid-Pillow-Pack-5CC-/140624794112?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&hash=item20bde41200

***Discalmer***

i have nothing to do with this seller, i just done a quick search and founded it cheep i did 😉

float fluid is really quite thick stuff 5wt suspension fluid is not the same. For £2.25 from ebay i’d just buy a pillow pack and use the correct stuff.

Is Loco out of stock at the moment??

+1 radtothepowerofsik

We had a guy at my old work douse a oil field tool in plus gas then the next day go at it with a heat gun. the fire marshals at worka all shit them selves when the alarm went off without being given prior notice. It didn’t help matters for the guy that did it that it was snowing outside and over 100 of us were stood outside in the freezing cold till the fire brigade let us back into the building.

rickmeister
+1 for the link to the GU10 LED bulbs, I just bought some from B&Q and have a horrible feeling they were £20 for 3. The ones i got were only 2W and i am feeling they are a little dim for there application.

I am in the process of replacing the other 10 or so halogen bulbs in the flat as they die so having a stock of a few would be good.

Back to the OP I am new to the LED for Halogen bulb thing and my current feeling is you will need more bulbs for the same area -this may be because i have bought lower wattage bulbs than i expected. The light from the ones i have is a slightly cooler white light than the halogen yellow/white but i am more than willing to put up with it for the cost saving. Currently i have a row of 3 bulbs in combination with a standatd pendant fitting and it is working well in my living room.

Me

When you were born, you were the:
4,665,969,658th
person alive on Earth
79,382,249,950th
person to have lived since history began

That looks so nice, really really want a ikle one for my flat. Set into the chimney just like that one. I’m going to steal a copy of you picture if you don’t mind.

store them at 40% charge in the fridge if you won’t be using them for a long period.

Storing them at partial charge is correct but storing them in the fridge seems to be a common misconception, quite a few people mention this on the forum and it is frequently poo pooed by the battery experts like smudge.

Storing them in a cool dry place is more important than the fridge, if you look at the graphs in your How to Prolong Lithium-based Batteries link you will see that at 0 degrees they loose 2% and up to 25 degrees they loose 4%, a fridge is normally at 4-6 degrees and a cool spot in a UK home will normally be below 25 degrees so you are not really doing any more harm to the battery storing out with a fridge.

Your fridge is generally quite a damp environment which will lead to more problems than a dry storage environment.

Ignoring all grooming concerns, if they are Tangfastics i’m having some. 😀

Stoner provides some good info on the 18650 batteries here 1/3 of the way down the page is a tabel of how the cells stack up against one another.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/ebay-cree-xml-20-torch-out-of-the-box-pics-review/page/2

At the end of the day that may be all you can expect from a single cell powering an XML led, they are pretty high drain led’s especially concidering the currents they can be run at to produce such a bright light.

Your best bet is to probably pick up a couple more cells and stick them in your pack or pocket when you go out so you can swap a fresh one in when they run out.

I thought Cannondale headsets were just 1.5 headsets so most 1.5 to 1 1/8 reducer headsets should work (this may not be correct but i’m about 80%).

BETD do reducer cups for cannondale bikes to allow you to fit standard headsets if they are of any intrest.

http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=169&Name=Headset+Reducers

you could have a look on the Hope web site, they now do pick and mix headsets to allow you to buy the upper and lower cups of your choice, they do most of the common standards so may have what you need.

Whilst sitting in the sixth form common room a good few years back one of the guys put some music on the stereo. Third song in and another guy shouts accross the room

MATE I FRICKING LOVE THIS SONG YOU GOT IT ON CD OR COMPACT DISK? ANY CHANCE OF A COPY?

This was then followed by a short silence and then pretty much the entire sixth form rolling arround laughing there asses off.

I can sympathise with the Mr Hyde being a bit on the harsh side. That was the main reason for me getting a second bike (full sus). What kind of riding are you doing on the Identiti? What forks do you currently have fitted? What would you look to put on the BFe?

I love the looks of the Cotic bikes (Soul and BFe) so don’t know which way I would go if I could ever afford one. The Chumba Hx1 has recently caught my attention especially since it has come down in price.

As a temporary fix have you tried a high volume tyre at the rear? Something like a Maxxis Ardent 2.25 seems to have helped soften out a little of the harshness on my bike.

I currently have some of keasae’s bearings in my suspension bearings. I’ve been very happy with them so am planning on buying some pro 2 bearings off him this weekend when i am back down in edinburgh.

I have seen how little grease some of the bearings come with then how he fills them to help keep the crap out. If his are fitted properly then in my oppinion they should last longer so i am willing to pay a bit more for them.

kaesae from this forum has this shop on ebay selling the bearing i think you mentioned in your first post.

For the 20mm hub the adapters are held on with circlips on the end of the hub main shell. You will probably need a small flat head screw driver to lever under one end and run it around to pop the circlip off.

BlackCatTech on here makes buck drivers, he had stopped for a while due to work commitments but form a thread about a week ago i think he is back making them.

trout posed a link to http://www.led-tech.de/en/LED-Controlling/Constant-Current-Power-Supply-c_118_119.html for drivers if you need something quicker than BCT can manufacture.

Loco Tuning is a little cheaper

http://locotuning.co.uk/fox-racing-shox-spare-parts.html

Simon seems a really decent guy and often contrabutes on here, If it was me i’d be sending my money his way.

We don’t have contents as landlord has that

I am presuming from this the landlord lives at the property with you?

If so ask him/her to add your bike to their policy as a listed item and offer to pay the increased premium/expence for alteration to policy and you should be all good.

Otherwise his/her policy will probably not cover your things just the contents listed in the inventory of the property. I have used Endsligh in the past for insuring contents only and listed my bike on the policy, there are other insurers out there that have policies designed for students that are available for non students in rental properties.

As winter tyres are to enhance the abilities of the car in winter conditions, how can this something the insurance needs to up the policy to protect against…

I got told it was because you are more likely/frquently to go out in worse conditions there is a greater chance of you having an accidents therefore we are going to charge you more.

pretty poor reason if you ask me.

Depends a lot on the situation. If it is an expensive bike and a complete novice on technical to them trails then there would be a higher chance of something actually getting bent or broken. I don’t know how I would feel saying mate/relative/work college you just trashed a £70 rim that with a rebuild cost could be £90 -100 to repair when for them that could be the price of a bike.

If it is a gentle pootle on a fire road or whatever where they are less likely to do any serious damage then they could have whichever bike they wanted to use.

4 is the way to go if you can afford it. I couldn’t last year so only have 2 and i can got about fine. I just need to remember the back is not a grippy and is more likely to slide out than the front. My hope was to add another 2 this year but have no money again and use the car less as i can walk to work now so will just be driving carefully again this year. This year my rear tyres only have about 4mm of tread so i think i may be pushing my luck a little more if it gets really bad.

PAUSE

look out window – Is it dry?

Go for a ride.

Put keyboard/controler/mouse down and get some fresh air then come back and kick some alien ass. 😉

Take a look at the maxxis Ardent 2.25 if you are buying a new tyre, I switched from a michilin 2.2 to that and it has a large volume so made a big difference on my hard tale.

Just heard about this on the news, terrible news. One of the truely exciting prospects in Moto GP.

RIP Marco Simoncelli

get in, that should settle the nerves a bit.

The design you currently have is terrible, is there any way you could afford something like supersessions9-2? With a design like that you could push the outside wall to run up the outside wall of the house without blocking out too much light from the neighbiurs.

That current design looks like the architect couldn’t give a monkies.

Damit Jeffus, if only i had known about that one a year ago. It looks from the pictures as though the Hope one would not need any modification as it doesn’t have the extended cup that the Nuke Proof one has.

Might be worth starting a new tread to see if anyone is using that lower cup.

wrecker

Don’t think Hope do a zerostack (44mm) to 1.5 lower cup, if they did i would have bought that over a nuke proof one, althogh so far the nuke proof one has been good.

Try and measure the insetion depth before getting it turned down the more that is in the frame the better. i found i only needed to turn mine down to 9.5 mm tapered up to 12mm to provide the maximum insertion, if you are taking it to a machine shop they should have calipers to check the depth.

I really wouldn’t think the extra 10mm will make that much difference, it did not in my case. i just wanted to make you aware it would happen.

Either fork would work well but at full extention may be a little much for the frame.

My mum got solid oak flooring put in the bathroom a few years back. About a year ago my sister had a pary and one of her rather well built friends used the loo, she was wearing kitten heals and it looked like the local rugby team had been trough there the next day.