On my full sus i have 710mm Race Face Respond bars and on my hardtale i have 685 Easton EA50. Can’t think i’d want any bigger than the 710 ones, both feel just right for me.

Good luck with the new venture, hope it works out for you and your mate.

There was a tread a wee while back from DD which covers alot on the expectations of a tradesman (well from a singletrackworld point of view) are. There is some good info in there.

Make yourself a simple and easy to use invoice in a word or excel type program that is clrarly set out and easy to use. It doesn’t need to be super flash but should look professional and be strait forward to use so invoicing after a job only takes minutes rather than hours.

Try and keep ontop of getting payments on time, as others have said this can make or break a small buisness.

That video is buy the guy i was talking about. He revised the design to remove the need to use a vice for removal of the linkage bearings and is working on something to do bearings that are fixed in a frame.

Here is a link to some bike bearing removal tools

http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id176.html

I think what you will need is a blind bearing puller. These are not cheap. You could try getting in contact with keasea from this forum, i know he was developing some tools to remove bearings, i have one of his tools for removing bearings from linkages and it works a treat. If you have any trouble finding his details drop me an email and i can give you them.

I did a search and everyfink but thinking back i put bike and chain as seperate words. It is good though

Nae to bad up here in Aberdeen, happy i am onshore rather than off at the moment and very glad i can walk to work rather than drive as there are trees down all over the place. Also the christmas lights on Union Street came down today so traffic in the morning will be hell.

I’d rather have a trout modified exposure than one of the cheap Chinese jobs, pretty much for the same reason I just bought an exposure over one of them. Build quality is better on the exposures, I would be constantly worried about the charging of the cells on the other types especially with the look of the chargers you get with them. A somewhat greater degree of thought will have gone into the optics/reflectors in these lights providing a more trail friendly and usable light for biking.
Keep up the good work trout.

Are you distributing the project details or do you want everyone to use a new bit of software?

you may need to figure in some training expense too if it is the later.

Bullheart i hope you are right, I have only used the Stoneaven shop for a small purchase but it seemed a nice set up and i got some good banter. I live in Aberdeen city centre so it is not exactly local but next time i’m down there i’d stop in.

You shouldn’t have any problem in fitting the 1.75 tyres on the 517 rims, i have fitted a similar width tyre on a wider rim with no issues.

Hope all is well in the cycle-world and this is another publicity thing. After the Stoney shop for sale thing on facebook I hope another good LBS is not getting squeesed out of the market.

Just added one to my Christmas list, hopefully the late addition isn’t too much hassle for Santa.

Rose bikes are cheap but not if it is just the nipples you need. They have a standard £5 delivery charge. I did find them cheapest when it came to buying spokes and nipples for 2 wheels though.

£63 to fix the battery!!!

I got a new lead put on a lumicycle battery and and a new battery bag from smudge at mtbbatteries for £15-20 tops.
drop him an email and see what he would charge for the lupine battery.
He is a top bloke and even managed to get my battery back to me in under a week of me posting it to him.

Sounds like it could be an issue with the cable, possibly a snapped wire at the connection to the battery it’s self.

There has been a number of reports on here recently of cracking service from Hope in regards to light and battery issues. Before you bin it drop them an email and explaiin the problem and i’m sure they will let you know if they think they can fix it.

If you get no luck out of Hope, i can recommend smudge at MTBBatteries.co.uk, i have bought and had batteries repaired by him in the past and have always had excelent service.

Astonishing, I can not even begin to imagine the fitness and determination required to cycle such distances.

DavidB keep up the good work with the website and book it is inspirational stuff, certainly has given me a good dose of MTFU after feeling sorry for my self from last nights mere 10-15k of mountain biking in the rain and howling wind.

Yes

The little PCB at the top of the batteries is your protection circuit for the pack (the cells themselves will be un-protected). To the best of my knowledge these in general are designed for the specific size of the battery pack so a 7.4V 5.2Ah battery will have a different protection circuit to a 14.8V 5.2Ah battery. It is not quite as simple as just soldering on the extra 4 cells to increase the capacity of the pack.

I know there are NHS people striking in Edinburgh, my mum is one of them. Don’t think she will be standing in the picket line though.

You might be easier getting the measurements from the bearings, would be easy to get the numbers from ebay then the dimentions from the manufacturers. Just build the tools with some reasonable tolerances and you’ll be fine.

Seems like a lot of hassle as they are only £25 or so.

you don’t see the player come up in the Post preview screen (well i never have) but when you send the post it just works

I’d check the shock bushes first, they are cheap as chips and a wear item. You would probably want to replace these when you do the bearings just so everything is new and shiny and they are only a quid or so each.

Which way are you getting the movement?

clubby I agree with almost all that you have said however you need to change the carrot cake bits for flap jack. The flap jack at the hub is truely out of this world, a master piece in cake/biscuit perfection.

Any deals out there on the dirt worker?

Seems the cheapest place for the mobi is wiggle at £70

Just wanted to check back in on this tread, hope everyone is still off the fags. Congratulatins if you are.

Keep up the good work

Rusty

Loads of fixings out there to choose from, head to B & Q and and see what looks strong enough.

When drilling into Lathe and plaster always start with a smaller drill and work your way up to the desired size, always make sure your drill is sharp, this makes a massive difference in reducing the chewed up wall efect you have just now.

I just re-decorated the bathroom in my flat and i used the red rawl plugs and screws to attach my bathroom cabinet, it feels plenty secure enough.

I find it pretty decent, they have changed the bottle since i bought mine as my main gripe about it was the stupid bottle cap that poped off on my bottle making a mess of the boot of my car.

Of late as the weather is getting colder the stuff seems to get a fair bit thicker. At this time of year i hose my bike down after manky muddy rides apply some new oil on the chan and chuck the bike in the shed for next time, longevity of the oil on the chain is something i have never really though about.

I’d buy it again when my current one runs out.

Drop Loco an email he should be able to advise how to repair them or atleast on the best route to modify them.

I got mine fitted within 10-14 days, drop them an email or give them a call and ask 3 weeks seems a long time to wait and not hear anything. At least you ca rest assured that they wouldn’t have been any real benifit in getting them 3 weeks ago with all the mild weather we have had recently.

Ferrit, good luck with geting them sorted. My emil is in my profile if you do decide you want them.

What year are the Nixons? I have some 2005 Nixon elite RTWD likethese sitting in my shed as one of the brake mounts needs helicoiled and i’ve never got round to doing it. I’d happily sell them to you for £25 posted if they will be any use. I don’t know what spring is in them, i’m gonna guess at medium.

DezB
What next “in a jiffy”?

nope a couple of red crosses it would seem 😥

we want pictures we can see

Stans Crest rim has an ERD of 541 according to the notubes web site.

For 12mm nipples I get as above suggests 261 Non drive side 260.2 drive side for the pro 2 eveo hub

32 x 260mm spokes should be fine for this.

For the Dt Swiss 370 hub i get 261.5 Non drive side and 261 for drive side calculated for 12mm nipples

you could go for 32 x 262 for this wheel build or 16 x 262 and 16 x 260

IF YOU WANT TO USE 14mm NIPPLES SUBTRACT 1mm FROM CALCULATED FIGURES AND RE-JIG SPOKE LENGTHS TO SUIT.

Have a look at rose bikes for your spokes, they sell them in packs of 20 so you would then have a few spares if one brakes down the line. Nipples from rose are purchased seperately but you should get all the spokes in black including nipples for less than £25 including P&P

[edit] by the looks of it of you go for 14mm nipples you should get away with 260mm spokes for both wheel builds [/edit]

I just got a blue ray player from sinsburys £75 or £79 that says it does the internet telly thing.

it is a Sony BDP-S185

It also look like i can get movies onling from love film! see what happens when you RTFM.

Off to find an ethernet cable to try it out.

I think they mean that forumite that is quite keen on health and safety 😉

Up to 11 i’ll be helping/chatting to the window fitter who is busy fitting new glass in all my windows. Couple of minutes not doing much but remembering thoes that served for their countries and lost their lives. Then from 11.02 back to helping/chatting. Hopefully come the afternoon i’ll have a water tight and slightly more energy efficient flat, then i can get on with tuning gears bleeding a brake and replacing some wheel bearings.

From page 1 of the tread is this the 1/2 spider eyes talked about above?

Does the bit of wall need to be load bearing?

one of the quickest ways i have found to fix the problem has been to use off cuts of plaster board and super glue.

Same idea as wwaswas but you tie a bit of string to a screw and screw into the centre of the offcut brace, put a good line of super glue on both edges of the bit of plaster board (the bits that will overhang and eventually secure to the back of the current plaster board)then position it and gently pull on the bit of string to hold it in place. Once the super glue has set (shouldn’t take long as it is esentially paper to paper) remove the screw and then super glue the patch in place.

no special tools required, if you are particularly worried put 2 braces in place.

You could put a large cable tie round the top tube between the taco and the seat tube with a small cable tie throughit and round the cable to pull it further back and more central while it passes throught he linkage if you don’t want to re cable the shifter.

Gutted for you, if the double is anything to go by they must have been lovely bikes. As i am sure you are aware by now you can set up ebay watch lists for the bikes or destinctive parts and try and have a look around on gumtree and such like.