Your measurements seem reasonably sound, from memory of mine.

I’d add another 3mm onto the top bearing maesuremnt as you have the lip of the cup then the plate type bit probably taking it closer to 5mm.

I am presuming these calcualtions are to figure out wether or not to go for the external lower cup as you could go for a standard zerostack lower cup?

If you are wanting exact size give Hope a call they are generally a very helpfull bunch.

trail_rat

Just noticed on another thread some of the stuff you ahve ordered, if you need a shot of a wheel truing stand i have one you can have a loan of in Aberdeen.

My shed is not as organised as your garage but is better than some that have been posted.

I curently have Katec bearings in my Iron Horse Mk3 and have been very happy with them

here is a link to his bearings
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPECIALIZED-PITCH-BEARING-KIT-SET-years-2008-2009-2010-/130531290935?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item1e64456f37

Very sad news indeed

I curently have an 8kW electric shower and a combi bolier, they can be run together as others have said. The electric shower runs off a cold only feed and although mine is ok for power is no where neer as good as a mains fed shower. I will look to ditch my electric shower when i upgrade my bathroom.

If i was in your position i would look to have an electric shower in one bathroom and the normal mains shower in the main bathroom. This is mainly because you seem to be in a very hard water area and having a backup if the normal shower or boiler fails would be very handy.

Scotland Figured as much, will keep an eye out at the big online places for deals and discount code and see if i can pick one up at a good price

Is confused 😳

The most powerfull excel tool i know is that if you click the bottom right corner of a box and dragg it down it’ll copy the data from that cell down. Winner winner chicken dinner 😀

I have read on this here forum of LoCo doing internal upgrade stuff with Sektors and making them a much nicer fork to ride. If he doesn’t pop up on here then he has always got back to me when i have emailed him through his website but depending on his workload you may get a quicker reply by calling his work shop.

ton for next weeks day off i have just descoverd pizza hut are now doing a stuffed crust pizza stuffed with hotdogs !!!!

TJ where is the best place for motorcycle fork oil? had a quick look online but most of the cheaper places seem to charge a fortune when it comes to postage.

For me the most iconic song from Hackers was Voodoo People by the prodigy.

£11.99 here

http://locotuning.co.uk/rockshox-spare-parts.html

There is no problem in using dot 5.1 brake fluid in brakes that have used dot 4. Avid recommend dot 5.1 due to the higher boiling point as bike brakes generally have smaller pistons and calipers which means they heat up more.

What frame is the Gary fisher? It looks cool! My opinion would be get the bike set up for him as it is – bring the reach of the breaks in sort out handlebar and saddle hight then get out on it. If you really want to make it 1×9 then do it but then when he wants stuff changed you can do the bike mechanics together which would be cool too.

there is a richersounds in cardiff, i got a cracking deal on a 32″ samsung from them at christmas for my dad so they could be worth a look too

ScotlandTheScared which LBS do you use? was that price mates rates or can any tom dick or rusty mac get one at that price ? 😉

email is in my profile if you don’t want to broadcast it on here.

If you are an FSA Orbit man then why not stick to what you know

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=9069

I have use one of the FSA orbit Z and was impressed by the bearings (similar 45×36 but not the same 45×45 as in that one) so if the ones in that are of similar quality then it should be a goodun especially for £26 think i paid £30-35 for the one i had.

Don’t know if the hope on will fit yours if it is integral and 45×45 style i think there one is 45×36 but may be worth further investigation as hope also do very nice headsets.

Hope you and your fiancée have a fantasic day on Saturday and a wonderfull life together.

Currently riding with Kyle Straits, find them very comfy even for long rides, the only time i have had a problem was on a very wet day when them and myself got soaked through and they began to rub.

If i was buying now i’d be having a good look at the g-form pads as well as trying on some kyle straits and evos.

here is a review for the g-form ones if you are not familier with them

http://www.cyclistno1.co.uk/gear/protection/leg-guards/g-form-knee-and-elbow-pads.htm

roooooo rie

looks like the cat is fainally out the bag with who Ru is riding for

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Ruaridh-Cunningham-Joins-Alpine-Bikes-Racing-2012.html

hope he does well this year

If you get tapered forks you can simply buy a replacement lower cup from the hope pick and mix range.

Full on the dipstick window to nothing on the dipstick window will only be about a litre nothing on the dipstick at all will be 4-5 litres which is a hell of alot for 700 miles.

check sump plug is not loose

Check oil filter, if the 1.6 FSI is anything like my 1.4FSI then it will be a paper refill type within a plastic housing near the top left of the engine so shold be pretty easy to see if it is damaged. There is either 1 or 2 o-rings within the plastic housing on my car.

Can you see if there is currently cups in the headset?

Basically 44mm id is for zero-stack /semi intigrated headset (you have cups pressed into the frame that the bearings fit into)

41mm is for fully intigrated where the bearings sit within the headtube of the bike no removable cup.

New frame for 500 euro seems a pretty good deal. Will all your old bits fit onto it ?

Shock or does new frame come with shock?
Seat Post
Front Mech
Rear axle
Any difference with head tube length or dimention?

If you love the way that one rides it seems a decent price to pay.

I don’t see this tread lasting too long but am looking forward to the replies, cup of tea any one ?

not had problems i the past – must bank with a slap dash bank 😉 Will find out soon if i have problems next time as i am going to be buying some spokes in the next few days once i have measured the ERD of my rims.

sparks YGM from me too

Just donated, very best of luck.

Richersounds have been keen on priced of late and i got good advice in January when getting a TV for my dad

have a look at the website http://www.richersounds.com/

Your Pikes will probably fit as long as the steerer is 190-200mm long. The Turner frame is designed with a 44mm head tube that takes an internal/zerostack headset (basically the cups and bearings run internal to the head tube)this means that the overall stack hight of the head tube is quite low as you do not have the external cups of the older 1 1/8 style headsets (used to add about 25mm onto the head tube hight).

If you want to upgrade your forks i have a similar frame – ironhorse mk3 (also DW link and similar travel at the rear with a 44m head tube) and i am currently running 150mm rock shox revelations with a tapered steerer. To allow this to work you need to install a different lower headset cup that will sit externally to the headtube like the old 1 1/8 headsets did to allow the 1.5 inch steerer to fit.

Headset wise Hope do pick and mix headsets so you can buy the top half and bottom half you need seperately to avoid wasted parts.

If your headset is fine check for play in the fork – remove the wheel and hold the brace of the lower legs and see if you can move it forwads and back, if so the fork bushes are in need of fettling and this is a job for a pro.

Try asking the company for a detailed job description for the new roll. While they prepare it it would do you no harm to take a stern look at your CV and the other jobs in your sector and location to see if there is anything else out there you feel you are qualified for and interested in.

As others have said A Job is better than No Job, it may be a case of sucking it up in a position that pays but is not ideal and waiting on the market to improve then moving on. Having all your ducks in a row with your CV etc will not hurt and my prove invaluable if you are required to formally apply for the new positions or if you want to try your hand at other jobs out there.

could your hub be converted to accept a 9mm trough bolt axle? like this –

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=32&products_id=286

You do know you get Tap spanners and basin wrenches designed just for jobs like that?

Fron your description it may be one of these you want

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/handtools-storage-workwear/handtools/wrenches/specialist_wrenches/B-and-Q-Basin-Wrench-9370415

Sunline thin grips

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=19264

i have a pair of these in the shed i could measure for you tonight if you still want sizes but at £7 a pair it will hardly break the bank to just buy and try them.

What shock is it on the bike?

I’m gonna guess it is a Fox shock.

If so you will need something like THIS TOOL for removal, re-installation of the bushes.

And THESE BUSHES would be like for like replacements.

If the top hats (metal mountings) for the shock are worn you should look at replacing these as well, most good suspension tuning/repair places should be able to sort you out with them – Mojo, TFTuned, LoCo etc

Northwind please correct me if i’m wrong but i didn’t think the Pro2 evo 12mm axle was fully compatable with the original Pro2 hub. I was of the impression that although the hub shell remains un-changed there were different bearings and a different freehub(Pro3???) to help resolve the cracking problem.

alex222 i have never had any problems with bearings in my hope hubs, over the years i have had/have xc, bulb and pro2 and in general get a couple of years out of them before they need replace which i am quite happy with.

In the mean time could you not use a bit of innertube attached to the seat rails and round the bottom of the seatpost.

That way it is not touching the post to scuff it but would hopefully keep most of the spary from the back wheel off it. You would also leve yourself decent access to clean it after a ride.

You can select the Black Sea as the area you want info on though just below the one for Adriatic.

There is also this one http://forecast.uoa.gr/gmap/ and for jam bo’s benifit if you drag and drop the pin across to the black sea you get the info for there too 😉