You could probably do it with care but the correct tool is not that expensive in comparison to a new shock.

http://www.tftunedshox.com/Miscellaneous/Mount-Kits-and-Bushings/Eyelet-Bushings

The one i have is like the TF tuned one, I use it in conjunction with a vice to press the bushing out and the new on in.

BETD also do one but is a little more expensive

http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=96&Name=Shock+Tool

and there is also this one which you can use without the need for a vice

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOX-SHOCK-BUSHING-TOOL-Fox-bush-tool-KaTec-bikes-/140587185644?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item20bba635ec

Fork wise if you are in need of some and think they will be suitable I have a pair of Manitou Nixon RTWD forks which are 115 – 145 mm adjustable travel, they have a 1 1/8 steerer and QR wheel fixing. They will need a little TLC as they haven’t been used in a while but the only problem with them i know of is that one of the disk mounts has stripped threads, there may be good threads further in but i have not checked.

If you want them my email address in in my profile and i’ll pop them in the post to you.

So if the front checks out to be ok, when i come to tension up the two rear wheels i have sitting in the middle of the living room floor, should I expect the Drive side spokes to sit at a higher tension than the non drive side as Al mentions in the 2nd post?

On the face of it my sandwich may seem a little tame in comparison to yours Dave – roast beef from a packet, lettuce, tomato, horseradish and mayo but what make it awesome is the fact that I didn’t make it this morning.
My girlfriend had the day off work today and got up when I was in the shower and made me lunch! Winner winner roast beef sandwich for lunch.

23mm???

Non oversize clamp size is 25.4mm is this what you mean or have i got the wrong end of the stick entirely?

Something like this possibly?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=58668

It comes with a lifetime guarantee on the non moveable parts so if you break a spanner or socket then you just take it into the shop with the receipt and they give you a new one.
I know of someone using a socket to remove a broken locking wheel nut – they smacked the socket onto the wheel nut with a lump hammer and then removed the nut. Took the socket back to Halfords and no questions asked got a replacement.

Fused lighter socket

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterproof-Fused-12V-Car-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Charger-Outlet-Hardwire-Cable-/380368127798?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item588fb50736

what are your plans for charging the leasure battery?

Depending on the number of kids it may be more cost effective to get something like these

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003F5WEMO/ref=asc_df_B003F5WEMO7866869?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22206&creativeASIN=B003F5WEMO

You charge it at home then charge the phone from it over the weekend.

Hora,

Do your self a favour when you go in to halfords, pick one of THESE up rather than just a 8mm Allen Key. It will give you tools not only to strip the bike but sockets to replace bearings and service your forks.

Are you removing this front triangle from a bike in the street?

The owner will not be happy when he/she comes back to find it missing.

Surely you have more than a park multi tool for your bike maintenance.

Sorry to hear about your dad convert, I guess in a way i am fortunate not to have had to think about this but a colegue in my last company got a week off and then took a few days sick when it happened to him.

Your circumstances are a little different living and working at the other end of the country to your parents so hopefully your company will take this into concideration.

Pretty sure spoke lengths are correct, checked them on DT Swiss spoke calc and wheel pro.

Have now got it true and dished with disk side spokes at a good tension. Have not checked non disk side but off to bed now.

trail_rat will probably drop you an email in the morning to see about getting it checked over.

Cheers all

trail_rat Yup in Aberdeen. May just do that, gonna have another shot at it tonight so may mail you tomorrow, cheers for the offer.

Shortcut It is which is why i am confused.

Currently the disk side is a little high on tension and needs to be tightened further to pull it accross to get the dish right.

I could slacken the non-disk side but that is already low on tension hence the confusion.

Cracked open a beer now so that is taking priority. Once i’ve finnished it i’ll get back to the wheel build.

Just to clarify are you referring to DS = Drive Side NDS = Non Drive Side?

Have a quick look at this tread a week ago, I’m sure they would be gratefully for some spare parts

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/stw-can-you-help-charlotte’s-tandems

Cheers

Rusty

What did you use to clean them up? They look ace!

I am presuming they have been re-painted?

I have some black lowers i would really like to turn white.

Depending on the frame size you need you should have a look at merlin, they are cheaper for the flux than the spot just now.

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/frame-forks/frames-mtb/turner-frames/

These look nice

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=63248

And you would only have to chop 15mm off each end to bring them inot size.

If they are for a all mountain/trail type bike try them as they are as i bought some raceface bars last year with the intention of chopping them and they felt great as they were.

the nuke proof stuff often comes in silver yellow or black.

I think the sunline bar came in a silvery colour too.

Have a look at Spank rims, tehy come in all kind of colours, lots on CRC

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/SearchResults.aspx?Search=spank+rim

[edit] damn too slow again[/edit]

If you go down the Mavic wheel route they were doing a reduced price MP3(mavics own if you break it we’ll fix it for free for 2 years insurance thing) which would be well worth looking into.

Of you go down the shimano XC717 route take a look at merlincycles prices, they can be cheaper than CRC for wheel builds.

The main weakness is the lock is pretty basic and locking into a plastic housing. I have never concidered the lock on my roof carries as a theft preventing lock more as a lock to insure the closeure does not pop open when the bikes move about on the top of the car.

I have seen people lock bikes to the roof bars with chains etc but my personal preferance is to lock them to the towing eye (on my car this is is fixed to the chassis).

Not sure if serious ❓ ❗ ❓

Presuming you are planning on taking the wheel apart to paint? Why not just buy a new rim in the colour you want?

I have one, got it when Lidle were selling them for £30. It is pretty heavy and the leggs can extend out quite far so i have found it really solid.
The clamp has a tendancy to rotate with the weight of a bike held by the seat tube however i fixed this in a slightly less dramatic way than tom. I wrapped a section of cloth backed sand paper round the horazontal silver tube under the clamp and under the bit where it joins the rest of the stand. This has stopped the rotation for me and although a little bit of a fiddle to fit cost buttons.

I don’t think it would fit. I thought the evo hubs were designed with a multi fit axle with adaptable end caps – the OD of the pro 2 evo axle will be to large to fit a pro 2 QR end cap on as it has to be big enough to cope with a 12mm rear. The pro 2 hub was designed with individual fit axles and matcing end caps.

To upgrade a Pro2 hub to a pro 2 evo you need the following

Upgrading
Here you go:
Freehub body (including bearings): £55
New axle: £15
End caps: £12
2 new main hub shell bearings: £5.75 each (these are only optional)

According to this article

Drive side and no drive side end caps have always been different colours on the pro 2 pro 2 evo hubs as they are designed to fit drive side and disk side specifically.

http://www.justridingalong.com/news/2011/03/hope-pro-2-evo-whats-new

nope

Pro 2 Front and Pro 2 Evo front are interchangeable

Pro 2 Rear and Pro 2 Evo Rear are different to each other and different to the front hub.

If you are prepared for a £300 bill i can think of much worse ways of spending it than

Rear shock service from Loco £70 so long as the current shock is in go condition.

Replacement forks from Merlin £210

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/frame-forks/forks-shocks/rockshox-suspension-forks/2012-rockshox-reba-rl-forks-remote-lockout.html

portlyone

There is quite a few folk on here that use almax and pragmasis chains, general concesus on the thread yesterday was that the 19mm and 16 mm chains are a bit heavy to carry about with you for portable locking of bikes but are great for securing to the likes of a ground anchor.

[edit] damn you Zippy and your fast typing [/edit]

This could be another option, if you are feeling flush

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=62014&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_name=UnitedKingdom

That price is for the bleed kit with either 50 ml or 100ml of fluid not just the fluid

I don’t know if this is spam or not but at a quick look it looks a fantastic copy of the avid kit at a very good price. The only difference being the pad spacer kit you get with the avid kit.

I like hope headset as well, have tried others but end up going back to hope. Take a look in the classified’s with head tubes comming in all sorts of different sizes these days you can often pick up very lightly used hope headsets for £30 – 40. You will get a good few years out of one with a bit of tlc then replace the bearings and it’ll be good as new.

Funniest thing about that picture is it is not even the strongest bit of railing in the picute!! They could have even put the lock round two of the thinner bits.

That is crap, have that had any one else in the property since? A month is a long time for it to be empty! They could have had other tennants or relatives in since you were there how are you to know?

I’m gonna chuck Sir Chris Hoy’s name into the hat.

Does she know how to use the gears properly? Have you explained braking and moving her weight on the bike for up and steep down hill. One of the things that helped my girlfriend was explaining that although the bike has suspension by getting out the sadle and bending her arms and legs she can absorb lots more of the bumps on the trail than her forks. She even commented that riding down a bumpy bit of fire road it felt better “less like being on a bucking bronco”

My google fou is clearly stronger than yours! try here but if they are all sold out in a fortnight when i get paid next i will be most upset.

there has been a few threads recently about the antem bikes and play at the rear recently. From memory there is not a lower shock bush which seemed odd to me. However there have been a number of people saying it is really important to have that lower bolt done up tight. Also the bolt needs to be loctite together which it is often not from manufacture.

Onzadog

Pro 2 drift set available here, well that is where I got mine any way.

http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/38/httpro2/hope-pro-2-hub-tool-kit-complete.html