I’m with andyl on this one, if the landlord had provided equipment to keep the tree(s) in order then they may be able to say it was expected but it would be very easy for a tennant to say the did not feel qualified/trained/comfortable using it.

If it as a hazard would the landlord not have a duty of care to have it fixed.

That connondale does look nice, it will also give you plenty of scope for upgrades with the fat headtube.

When my girlfriend was getting into mountain bikeing the thing she found the best was a good fitting pair of padded shorts. Im not going to recommend any brand as will be a case of whatever fits Mrs FD best but if you start to do longer bike rides they make a big difference.

There is no need to make anything, just look out at the petrol stations for when they have picnic blankets on sale. I think I picked up two for a fiver last year which are perfect for lining the boot of the car. They tend to have a water retardant side which keeps the worst of the water/mud from soaking into the boot or seats of your car and my ones are grey so kind of blend in with the colour of the upholstery. They also seem fairly tough as nether has ripped yet and both have caught on pedals and gears.

FunkyDunc

There have been a fair few threads about Anthems and on one of the others someone posted a picture.I am presuming it is the drive side lower main frame bolt that is comming loose from your description.

If so would it not be possible to take an old L shaped allen key and chop down the short end? We used to do this all the time in my last job as there was alot of fiddly bolts we had to do up with restricted space.

Obviously removing the cranks is a good idea to give everything a good inspection but if you just want to give it a quick tweek to check it is tight then this may work out quicker.

For mountain bike or road?

I have a Lezyne Micro Floor Drive HP Pump for my MTB that i stick in my camelbak and it works well. Not the cheapest pump in the world at £30 but seems very sturdy.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001UJ0CHG/ref=asc_df_B001UJ0CHG7969075?smid=A1M0YB0MN2L854&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22218&creativeASIN=B001UJ0CHG

I am no expert but some of the differences i know of are the more expensive ones are generally stainless steel where the cheaper ones are chromium steel the balls in the more expensive ones generally will have a greater tolerance on the sphericallity (is that a word? they are more sphere shaped) of the ball.

They don’t look like Pro 2 20mm spacers – The pro 2 20mm spacers are held onto the end of the hub by a circlip.

like this http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=10237

If they are definatly 20mm they must be from another hub

48 ??????

People are going to need a little more info to help you properly. Size of rooms, is the house well insulated, size of radiators etc.

I am no expert but I can’t say I have heard of Ariston as boiler company. As far as I am aware Worcester Bosch And Baxi are the two biggies. Presuming this is a mains gas combi that is going in

On the flip side I went into two bike shops this week looking for the same small part – a reducer gromit for a Mavic MTB rim and was told “oh no we don’t stock them, you’ll get them online somewhere though”

Sorry i’m on my phone but the wheel pro spoke calculator is pretty good pop your numbers into that and compare

Have a look at the voodoo bikes at Halfords as another option. The best advice at the moment would be try and get round a few bike shops and see if you can try (sit on or even bike round the car park) of a few different bikes to see what feels right.

Handjob available at chain reaction

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mobile/MobileModels.aspx?ModelID=41232

SLX group set from Merlin

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/mtb-parts/transmission-gears/groupsets-mtb/shimano-slx-10-speed-disc-brake-groupset.html

Then possibly a set of hope hoops would take you to the thick end of 1k

Recessing sockets and light switches in lathe and plaster. Trying to do this without disturbing the surrounding plaster is a total PITA

SLX £85-90 at Merlin
XT £120-125 at Rose

my personal choice

These RaceFace Atlas cranks from CRC at £117 (put Thanks in the voucher code and get an additional £15 off)
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=54843

Have a look at Winstanley’s for Marin, Obrea and Whyte and Pauls Cycles for Cannondale, GT, Scott and Cube

Cook the first night in a new property!!!

I though tit was the law that you got take a way pizza and ate it while sitting on un-packed boxes.

Doesn’t need to look too preofesional, maybe my original post was a little missleaing. She is not commuting between offices on a daily basis just working in one office 2 days a week and another 3 in different parts of the city so brings the laptop home most nights.

xiphon

if the rack fits a mountain bike with disk brakes i could be interested. My email is in my profile.

Wheel seems good, got may hard tail built up on Wednesday for the first time since November last year, but was in such a rush I put a tube in with a slow puncture on the new wheel so didn’t get too far.

Other two were finished of on Monday night, hoping to get out at some point at the weekend to try them out on some rougher terrain.

tonyd

Cheers, answers my question perfectly. Was thinking a rack and a single bag may be an option but obviously not. Has also highlighted that she would need to pack the bags in such a way as to balence them.

The likes of the bags GrahamS posted the links for may be more appealing to her as there is less to worry about.

Going to try and talk her through some of the options tonight.

The bearings are a funny size and quite big that could be the price for one! Probably best to give them a ring and check.

If it is i noticed THESE enduro bearings on ebay that are also i direct swap. I have enduro bearing in two of my main pivot points and they are excelent bearings.

Have you ridden either? which did you prefer?

If the Mojo HD is the one that can be converted between 140mm and 160mm (sure i have seen someone on here with a mojo that they swap shocks and forks on for different riding) that would be a very big plus point in my book.

gibbon

You can if your head tube is a 44mm/zerostack/inegral type where the headset sits internally to the head tube. If it is standard 1 1/8 (cups sit externally to the frame) where there is only aproximately 34mm inner diamiter of your head tube (not including any headset) there is no space for the 1.5 inch or 38.1mm lower section of the tapered forks to fit.

This document from Hope is pretty good at letting you know what will fit and what headset you would need to get it to work.

http://www.hopetech.com/webtop/modules/_repository/documents/HOPEHEADSETS2011Web.pdf

If i go for panniers that sit over the wheel what will be easier for her, a single larger bag or a pair (hoping she would have the common sense to distribute the hevyer stuff between the 2)?

sports persuits have the Drift HD cam on offer just now

druidh, will keep it in mind. Ideally looking for something new as it is probably going to end up being a present.

Ok ta,

Any advice on pannier bags?

In Aberdeen so anything waterproof would be good

1 – yes i have barracuda racks on my thule aero bars, i attached mine with a bolt and washer from B&Q rather than the mega expensive Thule T bolt things.

2-? I works for my Identiti Mr Hyde frame which has quite a wide down tube but not having tried a C 456 or knowing the dimentions i couldn’t confirm it it would work.

al

this rack?

http://www.cyclebasket.com/m5b0s144p2367/BLACKBURN_EX1_Disc_Compatible_Pannier_Rack_

and this clamp?

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/mpart-single-bolt-seat-post-clamp-with-rack-mount/

I think i just saw that budget fly strait out the window I did not realise how expensive they were.

Budget – £100ish for rack and panniers hopefully ❓

Your Pro2 Evo hub is designed to work with all the common axle sizes (using different adapters) QR, 15mm and 20mm. The adapters are easy to change there is a video on the hope web site.

By increasing the axle size it helps reduce twisting forces applied to the fork by the wheel going over rough terrain.

Is there any kind of digital system we could use which might not suffer so much from voltage drop?

Morse and an air horn????

Check and see if your brake lights are working.

I had a similar problem on my Polo and there is a common problem with the brake pedal sensor, think it is on rev G or H now.

Good news is if it is the brake pedal sensor then it is only a few pounds for a replacement.

Solo
Armed with the Book, a spoke tension tool and some sort of wheel jig.
I should be able to get the job done ?

I found a bit of patience and a beer are also usefull when building a wheel.

I just built my first wheel a the weekend, I have now built 3 as of last night.

Once you get the hang of it, it is not to bad. I bought the Roger Musson book (Wheel Pro), in that there is loads of good info from what tools you will need and how to make them to how to measure hubs and rims to calculate spoke lengths.

If you decide you want a stand have a look for the Unior one, it is very basic but quite sturdy, that in conjunction with the truing guides in the wheel pro book will see you right for a good wheel build.

The only bit i struggled with was final tensioning of the wheel, in the end I bought a Park tension meter from ebay and it helped me.
If you look in my posting history you will see a thread i started at the weekend about final tensioning of a wheel with some very helpfull info in it.

Things i have found from building my first wheels

Spoke key – the M-Parts Pro one on CRC is briliant for the money, you do not need to spend more than that on a spoke key

Nippe Driver – found this invaluable when building my wheels, if you can not be bothered to make one then Rose Bikes have the DT Swiss one at a good price

Spokes and Nipples – Rose Bikes are very competative on pricing for DT Swiss Competition Spokes (The double butted ones). Make you life easier in the future and just go for brass nipples.

Good luck

kayak23

That makes sense now, i must have an 44IETS in my bike, just looking at the pics on CRC gave me the 44IESS oops 😳

SS = standard steerer 1 1/8
TS = Tapered 1.5 – 1 1/8
OS = Oversize 1.5

I have a Nukeproof 44IESS to allow taperd forks in my Iron horse Mk3 haven’t had any problems with it.

44=ID of Head tube headset will fit
E= External Top cup
E= External Bottom cups
O= ?
S= ?

Have you had a look at the hope technical document
http://www.hopetech.com/webtop/modules/_repository/documents/HOPEHEADSETS2011Web.pdf
for the full range of pick and mix headsets they do.

The SHIS number should be common through all manufacturers.

S.H.I.S. Top Cup / Bottom Cup: EC44/38.1 – EC44/40

before you go starting with coloured nipples these will be alloy and it may be worth having a read if you will be confident to build your first wheel with them.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/alloy-spoke-nipples-or-brass

if so here are some at a reasonable price

The mount kit (top hats) will not come with the tool to remove the old bushing so you will just be in the same place you are now.

The first thing to do will be remove the shock from the frame and take a look at the bushings – remove shock, remove mounting hardwear (top hats) and inspect for wear. The bushings are designed as wear items so there is a good chance if the movement is minimal this will be the problem. The mount kit will hopefully be in good condition and can be re-used. Spend £25-30 on a tool and bushes and it’ll be good as new.

While the shock is out of the bike check for any play in the bearings. To do this cycle the rear end through its travel and check it moves freely/smoothly. Then grab the back end of the bike with one hand/arm and the front with the other and push and pull the rear of the bike to see if you have any lateral play (you may almost need to cuddle the bike to get a good grip).

If the rear of the bike feels stiff to move some of the bearings may be seized if you have lateral play first check every bolt is done up correctly and if so one or more of the bearings may have failed.