Yup that is exactly what you will need.

keep hold of the 1.5 crown race and you can upgrade your forks to tapered ones down the line.

You may be lucky and the spokes turn out to be the correct length but in my opinion it is always best to be sure of what you have and go from ther

Wheelpro spoke calc calculates spoke length using 12mm nipples have you factored this into your calculations?

Have you measured the spokes you have? This will be the best way to figure out if they will work in the new wheel. That is if you can afford to take the wheels apart and be with out them for a while.

From memory you can get a wheels worth (40 – 2×20 of required length)of black DT Swiss Competition spokes + brass nipples from Rose bikes for £22 ish + postage. An extra £45-50 may be worthwhile if you simply can not be without your wheels for a week or so if the old spokes don’t fit.

phil for bike ring see link below
http://www.bicyclegifthub.com/proddetail.asp?prod=VB6800R

I personally wouldn’t concider XM317’s for that application but i am a fat clumsy oaf of a rider and would probably trash them. 319’s are only a few pounds more and would give you better volume but are only 70g lighter than your EN321’s.

Are you building the wheels yourself or is a shop doing it for you?

As others have said you will be aboe to fit the 2.35 tyre on the 317’s, it may be slightly more baloon shaped due to the narrower bead but if you think they are right for you then go for it.

What do you plan on using the wheels for?

If you want really cheap try these
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=78506
they should take a 2.35 tyre no bother.

If you are wanting something robust then take a look at the Mavic EN 321 and 521 rims, still very good value for money in my opinion but not quite as cheap as the 317.

How close to where the stove will be is the socket?

Could you not push it along the wall a bit and replace it with a single socket?

From memory is there not only one o-ring in the caliper of the Juicy brakes which seals the air path between the two halves of the caliper.

The ones round the piston are square shaped, you will have to be very carefull with removing the pistons if you plan on relpacing these seals.

This is a link to a seal kit on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Avid-Juicy-Caliper-Service-Kit-/320887539700?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item4ab66347f4

This is a link to CRC with the piston and internal o-ring
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=11972

both are about a tenner/brake, have not used the ebay one before but it may be more what you are looking for.

Just donated, and you will be pleased to hear i live in the North!!! the north of Scotland that is.

Cracking charity to fund raise for.

Would be really interested to find out if the 27.2 HiLo’s were recalled. That was top of my list for a 27.2 dropper post.
Loco was looking to stock 27.2 versions of the DSP BigHorn, but it only does a 3″ drop rather than 4″ that the HiLo can.

Check out Rose bikes. There will be an additional £5 delivery but even with that taken into concideration i have always found them cheapest. They sell spokes in bundles of 20 and you need to buy nipples seperately which are sold in packs of 40.

If you are building your wheels then a nipple driver is an extreamly usefull tool to have. You can make one and instructions are in the wheelpro guide, I couldn’t be bothered and just bought onee, rose were way cheaper for the DT Swiss one than any one else when i got mine a few months back.

If you are worried drwato you can always report the posts and look at getting the thread removed 😉

Looka a cool Pic Jedi, typically scottish sky in the back ground and sunshine and smiles in the fore ground.

Hope to get down to glentress with my girlfriend later in the year, hopefully she will end up having as much fun as your daughter.

They look like they would be fine,

These are also very good bearings but at a more affordable price.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6902-2rs-bearing-Enduro-15x28x7mm-MTB-Specific-bearings-69022rs-6902rs-/130651196021?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item1e6b6b0a75

They could be hydrostatically locked. Water in them basically. New fluid will be required as the current oil may look like mayo.

No offence taken, I’m sure you could cock up cutting a steerer with a pipe cutter as with anything. I’ve never had any issues using one, just take it slow and steady then a quick file at the end to remove the burr. Have always found it easier than using a hacksaw. I would certainly not advise using a pipe cutter on a carbon steerer and should have put that in the original post.

As per onzadog use this as an excuse to custom fit your stem hight you can run the bike with spacers ontop of the stem as long as you put it back together the right way. Once you have figured out the ideal hight it is really simple to trim the fork steerer down using a pipe cutter from B&Q think they are about £8. Other things to consider before chopping the steerer are how likely you are to use the fork in other frames which may have longer head tubes and what are the chances of you selling the fork down the line. In general forks with a steerer 200-210mm will fit all but the biggest of bike frames, because of this it may be beneficial to cut the steerer to that kind of length to leave options down the line.

Right o clive good luck with your bike.

The reason i ask about the class of your memory card is that you can reduce the juddery nature of the film as higher classes of cards deal with higher data rate much better. By higher data rate i mean 1080p at higher frame rates.

Here is what the numbers mean

To help you find the right speed, SD/SDHC cards are broken down into four classes: Class 2, Class 4, Class 6 and Class 10. Class 2 cards offer a minimum sustained data rate of 2 megabytes per second (MBps), Class 4 of 4MBps and Class 6 of 6MBps and Class 10 of 10MBps

The 1080p at a high frame rates is a known issue with alot of the sports video cams.

Ok so let me get this right, your plan is to use the standard 142mm hub and axle and then shove a couple of spacers on the end, bend your mech hanger to suit and shim out the disk brake mount?

What is going to support the hub on the axle (Maxle)? you will end up two massive stress poins on the axle (Maxle rather than hub axle) at the end of the 142mm axle between the regular hub ends and the shimms.

I’m gonna guess as the frame has a 150 rear end it is a downhill / hard hitting frame. This is not the type of frame i’d want to have a compramised rear hub assembly on.

mintimperial what class of memory card are you using in your contour?

Coolhandluke has the answer you seek. It may seem counter intuative to push the bead of the tyre further in from the edge of the rim but it makes a big difference. The more of the bead you get in the channel in the centre of the rim the easier it is.

You sure it is not your disk brakes that need re aligning? Not all hubs are made equal in regards to the position of the disk mount on the hub. Check you are not getting a little rub on the brakes as that will make it much draggier.

I got my hope hub bearings from Keasea from the forum, he has a shop on ebay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hope-Pro-2-hub-bearings-kit-rear-performance-upgrade-/140560533615?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item20ba0f886f

He supplies the same quality double rubber sealed Fag/Ina , SKF bearings that Hope use but loads them with grease to help keep the crap out and them running smooth.

So far after a winter of abuse in Aberdeen they are as good as the day I fitted them.

One thing i would mention is fitting them properly is as key to long life as sealing and greasing. You can use sockets to fit them, many do with no issue but i got the hope tools as they were not too expensive and they made the job a brease.

Sorry no white forks yet, they are sittin broken in my room. Hopefully soon as I have the service kit for them on the way.

[/url]
My Green Bike[/url],on Flickr

What kind of stuff is he into? You must have had some banter while getting lessons.

If he is really into his cars could you get him a ticket(s) to something at Knockhill like touring cars or something.

My driving instructor was into golf so i got him a lesson with the local golf pro.

If you get no luck here try contacting Loco through his website, he has been very helpfull with me today with a bunch of service parts form my fork and shock.

I’d be suprised if you need a new moco unit but someone is sure to know exactly what you need.

Best of luck getting your shoulder sorted C_G

Healing vibes.

Breaking news on the Sky web site would suggest it has happened!!!

Nut, bolt and selection of sockets.

I noticed the other day Superstar are doing some bearing removal tools
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=36&products_id=529&osCsid=17bcvm7vjqg82ag244hcvgdpr4

The KaTec ones look like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Specialized-bearing-puller-and-press-kits-Epic-frames-2003-08-KaTec-Bikes-Lazer-/130699920666?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item1e6e52851a

On Shimano cranks yup finger tight. On RF cranks you need to yard on the bolt and the only preload is done by the washers on the axle.

Weather looks a lot like it is up here at the moment, was an awesome night to be out on the bike. I took my girlfriend out arround one of the local trails last nigh to try out her new wheels and tyres. No pub stop on the way home but her saying that they felt much better than her last tyres was enough to put a massive grin on my face. 😀

What crank? Race face ones often come with white spavers on the axle of the crank to take up any slack in the axle, if you have too many on they wiil preload the bearings making them feel tight.

Do you have the correct spacers on the bearing cups to space out the centre tube properly? this pressing ont he bearings from the inside will also cause them to feel tight.

alpin,

I spoke to Loco about my U-Turn Rev airs that seem to loose air from neg. chamber. He recommended the Air U-Turn service kit £24 on his site

http://locotuning.co.uk/rockshox-spare-parts.html

Dunno if he does shipping to Germany but the Rock Shox part number is listed so you may be able to source over it there.

I have tried crunching the part numbers in the past for these forks as if they are the 426 revs like in the pic below then i also have a pair.

They are based on the same chassis as the recon/reba so no 15mm or 20mm lowers were developed for them. With later Revelation forks and Later Recons they did have 20mm but I believe also had different uppers.

I would love to be proved wrong but think the best way to stiffen them up will be a 9mm axle QR rather than the standard 5mm one.

Full retail will be much more, I was more trying to open the OP’s eyes to what he could have if he was any good a bike maintenance.

For new SLX transmission see here

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/mtb-parts/transmission-gears/groupsets-mtb/shimano-slx-10-speed-transmission-groupset.html

For new SLX transmission with brakes see here

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/mtb-parts/transmission-gears/groupsets-mtb/shimano-slx-10-speed-disc-brake-groupset.html

Gear cable may also be required

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/mtb-parts/mtb-accessories/cables/shimano-mtb-gear-cable-set-with-ptfe-inner-wire.html

Forks – Loco or J-Tech

Thoes ASDA ones are terrible, a guy at work got some thinking he had got the bargin of a lifetime, 3 punctures in 4 days with them made him rethink!

3 for £12 i’d have bitten there hand off for that!

Noticed these tubes at merlin the other day

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/tyres-tubes/tyres-tubes-mtb/tubes-rim-tapes-mtb/schwalbe-sv-av13-26-x-15-25-tube.html

never used schwalbe tubes before but price seems really good.

tinas, merlin don’t do 29er tax! same price as 26″

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/tyres-tubes/tyres-tubes-mtb/tubes-rim-tapes-mtb/schwalbe-sv19-29er-19-235-presta-tube.html

Ask where/who they pay there rent to. If it is through an agency call them up and raise your concern with them or ask for contact details of the landlord. If the landlord is made aware of the problem they should fix it. If you are particularly worried about it send an email so you can keep a record of when you raised your concerns.