Oh sod it, with wimbledon being on just now it seem fair craic to post this cheeky one.

[imghttp://www.davidgregory.f2s.com/kylie_tennis.jpg/img]

*crosses finges and hopes this is taken in the good humor it is intended.

[edit] this one is more family friendly [/edit]

Some of the vauxhall and fiat vans/car come with 1.3l engines things like the Astra van fiat dolbo may be cheaper to insure

Presuming your mate still has his car insured can you not see about him adding you as a named driver on his policy. You pay him the cost of changing his policy but presuming you have a clean licence it shouldn’t be too much. I am presuming he has done the sensible thing of keeping it insured till it sold so people can test drive it.

I wasn’t meaning buing the bits from ebay, more they would be the type of bits i’d use. Maybe i miss-understood the OP.

Something like this for the frame

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mild-Steel-Angle-Iron-Cut-to-any-size-50mm-x-50mm-x-3mm-/220951500649?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item3371bc5769

Something like this for uprights every 100mm within the frame

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-Steel-box-section-25-x-25-x-2-1-5m-long-/120923818436?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&hash=item1c279f09c4

Possibly even with something like this welded into the panels before the uprights

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Steel-1-x-1-Welded-Mesh-Panel-Garden-DIY-/370545265452?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5646380b2c

When i bought my socket set form halfords the warranty was on all non moving parts. I have no real issue with this and would not have thought the plastic box would be covered.

From tomorrow Lidl have a special on tools and they have magnetic strips for £3.50. If you can get one of the meal tool boxes at a discount price as replacement for the plastic case they will help in organising it.

http://www.lidl.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg/lidl_uk/hs.xsl/index_32302.htm

For the small tools and adapters you could keep them in a small plastic container, i heve used everything from buisnes card holders to tupperware containers.

Lots of places do fork bushes:-
Loco and TF Tuned offer upgraded polymer bushes and can do new mounting kits.
Keasae sells bushes, top quality DP4 ones and can also suply a tool for pressing them in and out, below is a link to his ebay store.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/KaTec-Bikes/Fox-Shock-/_i.html?_fsub=3347745011&_sid=195819221&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

Last time i bought – 18 months ago i got 10 of the bushes from Keasae and have been very happy with them.

I haven’t read all the replies so this may have been covered already.

After the first three months with our energy provider they tried to bump up our gas by about the same amount as the OP. They sent out a letter prior to it going up so i called them and was told that the ‘new’ computer system automatically re-calculates the useage depending on the amount used to that date. When i stated the original monthly figure was claculated on actual yearly useage it became clear the computer cocked up as it estimated my yearly useage on the three coldest winter months. They changed the Direct Debit there and then and i got confirmation in the post 2 days later.

Can you build wheels?

Merlin have stans ZTR 355 or ZTR Olympic rims for £80/pair.

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/wheels/mountain-bike-wheels/sale-wheels/stans-ztr-355-rims-pair.html

Do you want new or used?

I have seen and bought second hand hope hoops for £150, I got mine with DT Swiss 5.1 rims and they have been excelent. If it is hope you want then you could get them second hand.

Heart felt congratulations Mr and Mrs Deadly

iolo,

Glad you have spoken to your GP and you seem to be genuinely trying to find out more about the procdure. I hope you can appreciate the doubs highlighed here and can go on to do further research to confirm the validity of the procedure and that you dont rush in and do something rash.

Finally best of luck with your bipolar.

Seems kind of mental to me, I wouldn’t like to mess about with my c-spine the conciquences of it going wrong for me would be too high.

Have you spoken to your GP about it? even if it is just to ask for a referance to someone who could give you profesional oppinion?

On my phone now so it is a bit of a fiddle to get back to your link. Have a look on YouTube for a service guide, SRAM are quite good at posting how to vids. As others have said drive side is the one opposite the disk mount.

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/mountain/product/review-specialized-bicycles-fsr-xc-comp-09-33634

Above article in bike radar suggests they are Coil sprung Tora SL

HTH

Rusty

Rusty Bolts are in. As you will probably see from my team i know very little about pro racing but hay ho someone needs to prop up the rest of you.

Seems alot of money concidering you don’t even get a water carrier with it (like the mobi jet wash or nomad).

Looks like it might be a bit of a faf to set up each time.

I got one of these

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=34761

but from wiggle when they had them at £60. All you need to do is click in the hose and pop in the power supply and off you go.

Can do 2 bikes with it easy.

Seat tube is 31.6

The haed tube is 44mm isn’t it ?

Please tell me i got at least 1 thing right 😳

*Wanders off to the corner to have stern words with himself.

My bad sorry

honourablegeorge

Think the changes are a 30.9mm seat tube for dropper compatability and a 44mm headtube to allow for 1 1/8, tapered and 1.5 steerers.

thegeneralist

It sounds as though you have been un-lucky with your bike, it sounds as though the gears and brakes hve not been set up properly.

If it is only a couple of weeks old can you take it back to where you bought it (quite a few shops offer 6 week tune ups) these are usually to sort out streched gear cables and the likes but they should do the brakes for you too.

Ononeorange if you CBA making a nipple driver check out the DT Swiss one on rose bikes. I bought that rather than making one as I never saw a screwdriver suitable.

Depends on the hope hub. The pro 2 and the pro2evo rear hubs are different. Pro 2 requires new end caps and axle, pro2evo needs just end caps.

Been reading this tread from the start, so very sorry for your loss.

I have been thinking of something similar, my plan was to use common and garden gu10 halogen down lighters with led bulbs. I figured I could put the lamps where I want them and the bulbs and holders are easy to get hold of.

You could always text him and say you got a far superior car in a Mitsubishi evo at an unbelievable price and that you can’t believe you even considered the scooby 😉

Great stuff, glad you got it fixed.
I’m sure your mate who lent you the bike will be over the moon to get his bike back in better condition than he lent it to you too.

Sounds like you are descovering why peole have a love hate relationship with avid brakes.

You are making progress although it doesn’t really seem like it.

2 final pointers

1 Really go to town on the saringe on the claiper at the beginning of the bleed process, pushing and pulling while tapping on the caliper (some of the nasty black fluid could be causing an obstruction between the two halfs of the caliper)

2 With the pistons now moving try the tie the lever to the bar trick again.

Sounds like both pistons are a bit stuck.

If you have the bleed kit you can put some fluid in one of the seringes and attach it directly to the caliper, that may hep in pushing the pistons out. What you are looking to do is get some fluid between the piston and the o-ring to lubricate things.

If they are totally stuck you may be abel to tweese them out (taped up needel nose pliers on the piston) a little while getting someone to pull on the lever. Once you get them moving it is a case repeteing the fluid on the piston to get them properly lubedricated.

If none of that works it is splitting the claiper and replacing the pistons.

Good luck

Cleaned the pistons with fluid and tried to get to come out but no luck, they do push in ok though.

Can you go into a little more detail with this please.

If you remove the pads and then put a spanner over one of the pistons can you push the other out?
Does this work with both pistons individually?

If above works repete 4 or 5 times clening and lubing each time on each piston or untill they both move.

One other thing to check is that the pistons are square in the caliper. I have taped up the ends of a pair of needle nose pliers to gently grip the central knob on the piston to give it a wiggle.

If none of this works it is strip the claiper time and £10 for some new pistons and seals.

That looks ace.

A medium one of them will be the replacement for my Ideniti Mr Hyde when i can squirl away enough cash.

[/url]
Transporter T5 New graphics[/url] by Go Gibsons[/url], on Flickr

Ardents will be spot on for GT, my personal preferance is Ardent rear High Roller or Rubber Queen front.

The axle spacers should be what you use to remove play in your RF cranks.

At the moment what I think you have done is make the BB overall width 75.5mm, this will mean that the centre tube is not secure in the bottom bracket shell, it may also mean that you do not have the drive side crank fully on the axle and may damage it in use. Also with the additional width you have created you may now be aplying an excessive side load on the BB bearings which will cause them to wear much faster than normal.

If it was me i would remove the non drive side 2.5mm space and use the axle spacers to get it to fit properly. You can use the axle spacers either side of the axle to fine tune the chain line. One of my bikes uses no axle spacers the other uses about 1.5mm it just depends on the frame. You only need to figure it out once per frame/BB combination, so in my oppinion is worth spending the time on.

Have a look on Chainreactioncycles for the sunline xc stem, earlier today they had 80mm ones in stock and they have a 35mm stack hight.

Has the steerer been cut down? Surely with it being a lefty fork you could just buy a new steerer tube for it. They shouldn’t be too expensive – not like a fox CSU. Is the head tube on the frame exceptionally long?

Another thing to concider would be a different stem, somethin like this sunline one that only has a 35mm stack hight.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=41211

On recommendation of the testing garage for a previous car i put posh petrol (Shell V-Power) in it and then went and found some nice contry roads and ragged it for half an hour on my way back to the test satation. Don’t know if it was the petrol or me blasting some of the crap out of it but it worked 😀

Base plate = Chris King’s name for Crown Race