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It is the BBCode you need to copy and paste into here for it to work. Instructions in Forum help section.

Pics or it never happened !!!!!

If you currently have a crown race on your fork steerer it will need to be removed before installing the hope one. Crown races are headset specific.

Ha ha ha brilliant, haven’t seen that done before.

The bigger shiny silver bit is your lower crown race. Your upper crown race is the matt silver bit.

What do you have at the bottom of the headset? Between the lower bearing and the fork?

Take a look at the first link rich posted

T1000 my email is in my profile if you do find them. I’d be more than happy to send some beer tokens your way for them.

Love my frame will be a sad day when it goes. Bound to see it if it goes the way of the bay as I have saved searches for iron horse mk3, ironhorse mkiii and with the spaces an numbers reversed 😉 😆 just incase a broken medium frame in black turns up.

However back to your topic, the Santa Cruz Butcher could be another option for you but that would be stepping away from the DW link design. If you are buying new I would be trying to get a few test rides in.

The only bits that are particularly showing their age are the shock mount bolts. I haven’t seen any replacements come up. The hex heads are beginning to rust a little but they are sound if you push the Allen key in good and deep.

There is the powder coat option but with the history of these frames it is highly likely to go pop once it is all tarted up and looking good.

I’m also kind of looking for a cheap option as I need to be saving my pennies just now.

Seems strange. Have you got every thing fitted correctly? My 2012 rev RLT’s work in the opposite way. If I ditch the pop lock lever I have no lock out.

Damn,

I know the colour and it ain’t going to go very well with the black rear triangle.

I am pretty confident that the 5 spot went to 44mm head tube in 2011.

On a side note I don’t suppose your mkiii that broke was a medium frame in black? I currently have a small but am looking for a medium front for it.

[edit] do you know about the ibis mojo and pivot bikes being DW link, they may be more accommodating in head tube dimensions [/edit]

On mine I have from non drive side to drive side an orange washer, a number of 1mm washers then the bb I think I then have 1 1mm washer and the drive side crank arm. The crank arm bolt with the 8mm head has a larger washer built in.

On the Atlas cranks you have the various washers that go on the axle of the crank. Have you tried removing one if these then re tightening them and see if that makes a difference.

When you removed the bb to do the bearings did you ensure it was tight when re fitted?

It sounds to me as though something has happened to extend the width of the bb. Or something has been done to reduce the width of the axle of the cranks to cause the binding.

I got a mobi v15 for Christmas last year and it has been great for cleaning my bike, i’m in a flat with no outside tap so it i use it for cleaning the bike at the trail then just turf it in the shed when I get home.

Going by the description the ZST is normally for zerostack/semi intigrated. Hope call this an Integral headset and from the pick and mix headsets it is a 2-top cup and B-bottom cup.

There is this FSA on that is pretty good, mine lasted 2 years abuse with no maintneance before i needed to change the bearings (these can be bought seperately) I bought a new headset before realising about the bearings and then sold it on to philconciquence from here as i changed my forks and needed a headset for them.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=51070

The hope one as an all in one
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=18084

however i think the pick and mix works out cheaper, especially here
http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/mtb-parts/mtb-accessories/headsets-1/hope-pick-n-mix-headset-cups.html

HTH

Rusty

I have a quick question,

how are you going to get up to the rafters to screw/bolt the shelf in place? You are not going to use a ladder are you?

Luminous

I have to agree with you there, i think the connections are pretty common problem with lots of the lights out there, The lumicycle lamps I have fairly frequently allow the power cable to drop out. I resorted to using double sided velcro to hold them in but it doean’t look great.

The ones you have on the 601 pic look alot like the ones we used in my last company for offshore tools. I’d love to change the copnnectors onmy stuff but between the lights charges and batteries i have it’d be a hell of a price.

I don’t know the specs but that bike looks very similar to the Evil Sovereign.

surrealguy

Have you thought of trying to get replacment bolts through a local fastner or a bolt supplier online?

i don’t know the way that the Pivot bolts are mounted but you my find equivelents on a site like this below

http://www.pro-bolt.com/stainless-steel/stainless-steel-bolts-and-washers-countersunk.html

cheers for that

Bummer, just seen this.

I guess the taper must be manufactured different to a regular zerostack head tube.

Don’t known if this is your LBS or not but they seem to have just what you were after.

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/trek/lexa-s-c-2013-womens-road-bike-ec040351

They have shops all over so hopefully one near ish to you.

[edit] just re read your post and had got mixed up with 52 and 54cm sorry [/edit]

I have always liked the 2 tone look of the turners, block colour on the front triangle then polished rear.

Don’t know how well it would work but my favourite bike color is the apple green you get on Orange 5’s and alpines so i’d be tempted to go for that on the front triangle.

Sorry for the confusion “I would need a compression ring thingy off a 1.5″ headset” that is what i meant by crown race, i kind of know them as upper and lower crown races but maybe i should call it a compression ring.

andyl

I would think that if you got a 1.5 crown race for that headset you would be able to fit straight 1.5 steerer forks.

This is much the same as what vermillion is looking for.

Now i don’t know the exact design of the hope headsets but there doesn’t seem to be much different between an upper and lower cups and bearings, to the naked eye they look exactly the same. I can’t see it being that difficult to take the H lower cup and bearing and pairing it with a 1.5 crown race, 1.5 shims and a 1.5 top cap apart from the Hope logo being upside down.

Might be worth sending Orange a email as well to confirm the spec of the head tube. From the picture on that link you posted earlier it looks like it is Tapered zero stack being like either the Tapered/E2 or the Tapered Scott / Lapierre like in the hope link i posted earlier.

If that is the case and you currently have tapered forks in it then the only change would be to the top cup.

You will then need to establish whether Hope sell one like I described above or go for the nuke proof one and sell the bottom cup to someone looking to fit tapered forks in a strait zerostack headset.

[edit] From this thread it looks as though the head tube is tapered/e2 type [/edit]

Not used them but they look to be aftermaket pads made by Nukeproof for various brakes, in this case they are for Hope Tech X2.

Then rather than stating the pad meterial as sintered, organic or what ever they have classed the pads as Trail, DH etc.

HTH

Rusty

[edit] THESE seem to be the genuine Hope ones for thoes brakes. [/edit]

One way to fudge the current system into operation as the old one did would be to turn the rad in the hall down so that the thermostat doena’t trip off as quickly/at all, this may mean you need to adjust some of the other rads in the house as other rooms may become too warm.

You can get wireless thermostats for £35 and it would not take more than an hour to fit.

Have you looked in to insulating the living room more? don’t know how practical it would be but if it is cooling down very quickly then it may prove to be a very wise investment.

+1 for securityforbikes.com and the protector 13mm chain. They do ground anchors too but i had one already so just got a chain and lock deal, the 13mm chain is solid secure gold for bicycle. For £110 including postage i thought it was a pretty good price.

Good advice from mrmo there, one other thing to consider is that there should be aprox 3mm of space between the top of the steerer tube and the top of the stem (stem above steerer) to allow for the bearings to be put into compression when the top cap is tightened.

Headset would be my first check too but it may also be the design of your disk. If it has big groves in it, it could be that the pad is being forced to bite on a large area then a small area then a large area causing the judder.

For future reference if you go to your local tourist information office they can arrange to send you a book called Scottish mountain biking guide (if they don’t have any in stock). Last time I did this it was free to get it posted to me and took about a week. The book details all the trail centres in Scotland and gives both details of how to get there and relevant OS maps of the area.

Smudge at MTBbatteries sells charges as well as batteries, all of his are ce approved so you should have no worries about overcharging or faults. Smudge is also a very decent person to deal with.

http://www.mtbbatteries.co.uk/our-products/li-ion-chargers/

Another option for you would to be getting a spare battery with new charger from roughrideguides for your magicshine light but you would have to check if the battery is compatible first.

http://www.roughrideguide.co.uk/Magic-Shine-Spare-battery-with-charger-protective-bag.html

Another vote for keasae’s bearings here, I have had a set in my wheels for over a year now and they still feel like brand new. His shop is called katec bikes and his seller name is airborne 10101.

Find out where you will be working then pick your side of the city from there. Traffic in the city at rush hour is pish. If you are working in Dyce (north west of center) then living in cove would be a poor choice (SE), if you we’re working in Altens then cove would be good.

As has been mentioned trails riding from the city centre are limited as there are few decent sized hills on the outskirts of town, if you have a car then you have the Cairngorms on your doorstep.

The zerostack headset is a 44mm headset so esentially you would want the same top half of the above nuke proof headset. However that headset has extended insertions so you may need to trim it down to get it to fit. I have a nuke proof lower cup cut down in my bike and it has been fine for the last year and a bit.

If you don’t fancy modifying the nuke proof headset you could try emailing Hope and ask if they do a top cup version of their “H” lower cup.

You would be looking for a Top – 1.5″ Traditional (43.95 dia) from them
S.H.I.S. : EC44/38.1

See document below for where i am getting these figures from

http://www.hopetech.com/webtop/modules/_repository/documents/HOPEHEADSETS2011Web.pdf

If you are looking down the line of deore shifters and brakes then i would have a think about the groupset deal that merlin have at the monent.

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/mtb-parts/transmission-gears/groupsets-mtb/deore-10-speed-disc-brake-groupset.html

£250 will get you new deore brakes including disks, new shifters and an entire new drive train.

If you need new wheels there are plenty on merlins site from £90 a pair upwards.

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/wheels/mountain-bike-wheels/factory-mountain-bike-wheels/shimano-mt15-wheels-black-pair-free-slx-rotors.html

or these for £130

http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/wheels/mountain-bike-wheels/factory-mountain-bike-wheels/mavic-crossride-disc-wheels-pair.html

What are the specs of the curent head tube on the Orange?

i don’t know the frame but it may be possible.

For the Mega it is a 44mm head tube so you will need this headset

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=60616

The mega should accept the extended cups without modification. Having a look at the hope web site i can not see if they do a 44mm external top cup like nuke proof do.

[edit] it seems odd it is not advertised as they do the (H) cup which is the lower so I cant see why they would not do an upper version. May be worth an email to them to see if it is made. [/edit]

The novatec hubs come in 28 hole according to their web site

http://www.novatecwheels.com/novatec/english/p_racing.php?c1=3&c2=10

it may be worth a few messages to the various eBay sellers that advertise them to see if they can get you one. Don’t think they have a distributor in the UK as Superstar re-brand them as their own.

If you want a sealed bearing hub then you will need to budget more than £20.

Your best bet for a cheap sealed bearing hub will be a used factory standard hub from someone like specialized, giant, lapier etc get on ebay and do some searching and post up a wanted add in the classifieds over there —->