Depends how many amps the PSU can pump out on the 12 Volt PCI-E connection(s) so you need to look at the specs. It could be that the PSU whilst it has a large headline wattage has only a single PCI-E connection that for example only pumps out a max of 10 amps.

Is everything connected the same way? Just thinking that if you have a few hard drives and they are all daisy chained on the same power cable then that could cause an issue, try spreading them across different cables.

One trick you can try to see if it might be power related is underclock the GPU. If you go in the Catalyst Control Centre / AMD Overdrive – tick the box to alter the GPU speed and set it to say 20% less than it’s default and give that a try if everything is OK then it could be pointing towards the PSU.

When I installed my R9 280X my PSU was of a wattage that was above the minimum recommended for the card with more than enough AMPs on the 12V rails feeding the card, but it was crashing the PC on 3D Mark. I did a bit of research and found out that when used heavily or over an extended period of time a PSU will loose some of its initial wattage capacity.

So I underclocked and it all worked fine, so ended up installing a new PSU.

Did you remove the previous graphics card drivers before installing the card and then the new drivers?

If not then un-install the all the graphics card drivers, this tool at Guru3D is handy for cleaning everything out. http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/display_driver_uninstaller_download.html use if in safe mode.

Then have you used the latest AMD Catalyst 13.12 drivers?

Is the temp when at idle in the desktop and when under load OK? If you go in the Catalyst control centre / Performance / AMD Overdrive it will display the temp and fan speed.

Have you looked at the graphic card makers site for any BIOS updates for it?

However a quick Google of “r9 270x video flickering” brings up pages of results are they similar?

Ps running a R9 280X no problems here.

Remember if they owe you any holidays they’ll have to cough up for them or you’ll need to take them. Of course depends on when your leave year starts/finishes, how many you may have already taken and it’ll be based on how much leave you would have accrued by your leaving date.

Are there more than just you going?
Are you over 41 years of age?

You are using sealant in the tyres? I’ve used them in the Lakes/Peak/N.Wales and apart from where I tore off the bead (being stupid) I’ve never had problems with puncture sealing.

I use Buddy Beacon on ViewRanger, just a good plus on top of a good mapping App

I wasn’t thinking of a TT, more a race track with slide off areas after all he wasn’t doing the attempt in a 12ft wide lane it was on a wide open beach.

Spat off any bike unclipped is different to being thrown off one clipped in, magnify that by the speed, the time to getting out of the way is going to be reduced by a massive amount. Remaining clipped in to a bike at 100+ whilst it’s bouncing all over the beach is going to be worse then thrown off on your own.

Oh I mean hands tied behind their back, throat cut etc it’s got to be an offer to the gods rather than getting rid of the local mass murderer and throwing them in an unproductive portion of land.

Or some stupid liability/insurance thing as it’s below high water ?

Just throw a coke can/crisp bag on the motorway, the Highways Agency will have it closed for hours while they cordon it all off and clear it up.

Flippancy aside I guess getting a motorway section long enough that’s also within the required flatness in the UK could prove challenging.

Was thinking Mangler II or Keegans for maximum gore

Chain to the wheel is going to be zipping along at a fair speed more than usual, tension/alignment I guess are going to be critical.

I’m about, anytime, talk you into the Clwyds again 🙂

Yup hippy crimble too! sure am that’s my personal mobile so on all the time.

Profile is spot on now for your sync speed, worth a 5 min power off/on on your router, then try speedtest.net to a few different sites (you get a choice of try another

Paul, that’s a sensible choice are you getting old?

I’d agree after ‘heated’ discussions (aka deep probing) with the Taxman in the past getting someone skilled in can make life a lot easier.

Russ

Never ever had any problems with choice on 26 UST rims, really like the Panaracer Rampage 2.1 UST fast, grippy and narrow enough if you have been used to 1.9’s. But otherwise take your pick >>

http://nextdaytyres.co.uk/search.aspx/TYRES-UST

What’s your IP profile now?

I agree, thrown off a superbike on your leathers is gonna be quite a different experience to being clipped in on road pedals, on the racing you see them throw/guide themselves in a different direction to the motorbike, that isn’t going to happen when you are clipped in.

I was wondering what the speed rating on the tyres was? They looked like Contis but were they specials? with any bicycle tyre what speed are they tested up to, is it a case of just the best and taking a punt at the inner tube pressure. Pumping up the tyre recommended range, but that doesn’t take into consideration the pressure/heat generated at a ton+

For an example on my router the list of connected devices is under Wireless LAN/Station List, currently there are 4 devices, a laptop, PC and two Smartphones connected to my router so for me if there was a number greater than I was expecting I’d investigate further.

And on a Geek note here’s my ping

It’s a UK site so the response times are in the ballpark at 40-50ms for a broadband connection.

I had funnies with an Asus Transformer and it’s Tegra chipset so first port of call was the devices section in the Handbrake forums where I found the using the high profile preset and replacing the advanced settings string with a suggested string would work and it did which I then saved as a new preset.

So take a search on https://forum.handbrake.fr/viewforum.php?f=7&sid=44be9fae191b760b5671bcd2bee114d9 Basically all Andriod devices are not created equal they have different screen resolutions and graphics/cpu chipsets

Oh and a lot of ISP’s have a service status page, so if you know your telephone exchange name then it’s worth a look on there to see what might be going on.

http://www.talktalk.co.uk/servicestatus/

Yes hence why they should be able to explain why its so low, due to lots line drops or big bursts of correctable or uncorrectable errors.

Depends if you get someone on the end of the line that’s allowed to do it. Some ISP’s their support staff have all the tools to hand and have lots of experience other ISP’s put drones on the end of the line to filter out the cruft. Like most things you pay for what you get!

My ISP (Plusnet) I’ve rang up asked them to do it and given the reason why and they have done it there and then.

Don’t take any Cr*P off them your IP Profile is wrong for your line sync rate, it should be somewhere in the region for 5.7Mbps, if they can’t explain why its down at 140Kbps they should just reset it.

Nope there’s your problem! ask Talktalk to reset your Profile.

For some reason its at 0.14Mbps when it should be about 88% of your downstream connection rate. Could be there’s been a pile of errors on your line so its been automatically stuck on a low speed until the problem has been sorted OR there’s been a muck up of some sort.

Try the further diagnostics button at the bottom once you get the BT results, it’ll come back with results including min-max acceptable ranges along with you configured IP profile.

What did you get on the BT speedtest?

I’ve had routers that have got a bit slow to respond after an uptime measured in weeks that have been cured by a power off wait a couple of mins and power up. But I guess that trying another router is usually part of the diagnostics that an ISP requests.

Have you tried a trace route on any slow to respond sites?

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/162326

It’ll work on website names as well as IP addresses, hop 1 will be your router at about 1 – 5ms, hop 2 onwards you should be interested in, try some UK based sites, all the hops should be in the region of 30-40ms within the UK, anything above could be a pointer towards a congested router/link.

I can remember my Grandfather doing it, I was too young at the time to ask why, how he picked up the habit, but I guess the coffee available during the wars probably wasn’t stellar so maybe to help with the taste? Or perhaps from his older brothers who picked it up in the trenches.

Oh forgot try this speedchecker and see what you get

http://www.speedtest.btwholesale.com/

On the status page:
‘Downstream line rate: 6464kbps
Upstream line rate: 448kbps’

Broadband speed checker 0.146 down, 0.319 up
Broadband speed test 0.802 down 0.267 up
Broadbandmax (also ookla?) 71kbps down 272kbps up
Speedtest.net. 0.10 down 0.36 up

Based on your line rate your download should be about a max of about 5700kbps upload about 390kbps.

Is you PC directly plugged in via an Ethernet cable to the router to discount any WiFi problems? and have you tried a different device/PC also? I’ve know so called Internet Security programs to cripple download speeds before now.

If you have already tried all of those then I’d be bending the ISP’s ear as that looks like a capacity/traffic issue in their network.

Find out how to login to your router, once logged in there will be a status page of some description on which there should be the speed at which the router has synched up to the equipment in the BT exchange.

If it is a line fault or your a silly distance away from the exchange then the up and down speeds will be just a little more than your current speeds. If the sync speed is for example 4.2Mbps down and you are getting 0.12 on your download then it would tend to suggest your ISP has capacity/routing issues, try a few different speed tester sites just to be sure.

Llandegla to Prestatyn mostly off-road

http://www.theedgecycleworks.com/mtbroutes/north-wales-coast-2-coast-day-4/

Driven autos for 12 years, only thing I’ll add is that I’ve been seduced by CVT now, had one for three years, went back to a normal auto for 2 years and I’m now back with another CVT. Going back the normal auto after the CVT I just didn’t like having to feel the gear change and kickdown. Driving for work it’s a lot less tiring driving experience.

Walked into Game yesterday morning had a play on the demo one, so a few minutes later (I’m a sucker when it comes to demos) asked one of the staff had they any in stock, 5 mins later walking out with one with Knack, CoD and BF4. Looks like it was a daily delivery, no one else there beating on the counter for one whilst I was being served.

Don’t fall into the trap of Bits n Bytes, LAN/Comms speeds are in Bits per Second (bps) and file sizes are expressed in Bytes. Then as julians states there’s theoretical and real world to consider. Quick mental calc is use divide the speed of the link (in bits per second) by ten which will give you an idea if the figures look in the ball park. So a 100Mbps (or M/bits) link /10 gives you a thoughput of about 10Mbytes per second.

You have to consider the crop factor for anything that isn’t full frame, all explained here > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_factor

Its related to the ratio of the dimensions of the digital sensor usually in relation to what was the classic 35mm SLR format.

So for example a Micro Four Thirds format camera has a 2X crop factor so a 14-140mm lens is the equiv of a 28-280mm on a full frame (aka 35mm) camera.

On a Nikon DX format DLSR (1.5X crop) to get your 28-210 you’d need 18-140mm lens

Panasonic GM1, Micro Four Thirds but tiny and light.

Alf’s have their Xmas sale starting soon and there are a few carbon 105 spec bikes in the sale list under you maximum.