Want one, got a link for this…..

Heard of people using clear nail varnish and then wet and dry to repair this sort of damage. Talas are great especially with the Kashima upgrade. You can always just buy the upper assembly in kashima for £175 and fit it yourself.

Boost valve only works when the shock is set on the pro pedal setting, so if you run it open most of the time as I do it make absolutely no difference. The pro pedal stops the mid stroke wallow and helps ramp up towards the end of travel, going from 150 to 175 shouldn’t make a lot of difference imo, you could always change the air can size to compensate. I was running the shock in the lowest pro pedal setting and didn’t realise it was actually on for the first 3 months of having the bike as couldn’t tell any difference between on and off in this setting!! Yeti ASR-5 as well. I got the kashima upgrade and is well worth it, I had the shock rebound slowed down as well at the same time. The rear end is so buttery smooth and thats with 1 seized bearing in the dog bone!

I moved from eaton cnt 685 to the easton haven cnt bars. They are great bats and I noticed the difference in width/control straight away, they feel perfect.

Early Rider wooden balance bikes are cool. My daughter loves her’s.

Phone them as they are the best placed to answer this.

I have not had a problem with imovie recognising my contour footage in .MOV. Just selected download movie in edit and then selected the contour camera from drop down.

Crankbrothers do a nice foam grip

The hard coat is grey but will become bronzy with use and cleaning. The CRC cranks are the older square taper version where as the link I posted above is for the newer X-type version so you can use them with the external bottom brackets. Also not on CRC website is the newer Duo cranks which don’t use the inner chainring as the spider, this is an improvement as stiffer, cheaper for spares and you can get a smaller inner ring.

Looks stunning, very jealous as stuck in work all weekend.

Try friends or relatives (or friends of) in the air force, either US or GB and get it in for Free.

Easton Haven bars are spot on.

Silver is the new black! Get silver as look sweet. Also cheapest at RJC-extreme, only £200 as get discount when spend over £200. Link below

Middleburn cranks £200

dirtyrider – Member
first ride out, you will adjust it 100000000000 times

from then on you will hardly use it

imo

Utter crap, apart from the 1st ride you will use it loads but I still use mine on any downward gradient as makes it such a hoot. Great purchase..

Front mech excess wire catching the cranks?! I’ve had this in the past and drove me nuts for a while!

Shimano XT brakes and the usual no spares parts complaint.
5 posts & 5 voices | Started 3 hours ago by mattmbk

mattmbk – Member
Has any one ever had any success repairing an XT M775 brake lever? Mine seems to be leaking from the master cylinder. As usual no spares listed but it can only be an o ring or square cut seal that’s faulty.

Rik – Member
Just buy shimano works and works and stops with no effort.

Obviously they don’t!!

Never had a days problem or worries with any Hope brakes I have had in over 12 years.

Middleburn chainring is your best bet.

Not exclusive, open to the masses

Should have bought Hope brakes…
Thought I would reverse the usual “should have got Shimano”

Got V2’s and they are just amazing brakes, look good, need hardly any pressure to stop you so no arm pump. The control through them are amazing. I like the Tech levers as like to have both levers pulling the same distance and biting at the same point and this is easily achievable with these levers. Never tried the race levers but all the reviews love them so it would be interesting to see how they compare. I run my pads very close too the rotors any way so the levers would probably work for me. I loosed weight on my V2’s by running standard hoses which brought them close to the weight of my old X2’s with tech levers and braided hoses. The main gain with V2 brakes is in the rotors, the actual calipers are only about 15g heavier.

point1racing podium pedals, their thin, grippy and have a large platform and come in raw alloy which looks sweet.

Loads just depends on mud conditions! A lot may not be legal but I used to just follow friends so can’t really help. I remember lots near christmas common and russel’s water.

Easton carbon haven or havoc bars and matching stem are a sweet bit of kit. Get the XT cranks as look nicer than the SLX

Switch to flats, much more rad anyway!!

Sweet, I’m at work now but not Sunday so great shout.

Those codes can be used multiple times so why not be super generous and just post it up for the masses to use.

True about the Bontragers XR4’s in mud but great on rocks and loose gravel surfaces, so great for the Welsh trail centres.

Bontrager XR4 team issues are good. Make sure you go to Coed y brenin.

They send them back to you regardless of if you ask or not. Ebay is your answer or to friends who want longer steerer’s or cleaner stantions thats where my spare csu’s have gone.

stevenieve – Member
Googled this too and yours is the first post it brings up.
My Podiums develop an annoying squeak after doing 10 to 15 dry miles.

Mine develop a squeak at times which is annoying but I have worked this out to be the rubber soles rubbing on the axle as it would disappear in the wet so Have purchased the longer pins which cured it!!

Fork juice works well or normal chain lube on the seals, all the slight movements are normal and not noticeable when riding.

Only problem with these kits is you have to remove the whole thing to fit a tube if you get a puncture which won’t seal. I use and rate as the best the bontrager symetrical tubeless rim strips and their tubeless valves. Their £4 each so cheaper and work with loads of rims and if you get a difficult puncture just remove the valve. Also much lighter, don’t use their sealant as no good get either joe’s or stans.

Cheers for all the info guy’s. Really looking forward to it as haven’t been out on bike for a few weeks due to work and family.

Would it be best to do Llandegla on saturday and CYB on sunday then?

Also this is the drop I found on youtube, nothing major but thought it would be fun to style it up a bit!! (more like land badly and wipe out!)

Drop at llandegla

I’d steer clear of D30, it’s been a solution waiting for a problem all along and has wrongly been adopted (for marketing reasons by lots of products) given it hardens on impact, that has the effect of transmitting energy straight to where it shouldn’t, sure it’s flexy but as a protection item has been ruled out by most serious protection companies and as it needs padding to back it and is not easy to secure the padding in a way to guarantee protection and energy dispersion

So the video above lie’s!!! Also all pads rely on a hard insert or padding of some sort or both!! The video above shows several impacts which he doesn’t really feel so obviously the impact energy is being dispersed or absorbed by the D30 proving that it does in fact work. I also have 1st hand knowledge that it does work.

Another one for the G-form pads, very good and non restrictive. You may want to size up on them, I sit in the middle of the large sizing but they made my feet numb after half an hour so got the XL instead. thebikechain seem cheapest using STWTBC code or on ebay from tredz.

It was the very first lot of frames produced, also its a 5 year warranty so don’t worry.

My advice would be to phone mojo in the morning.

Hope V2’s !!

My advice would be to send them to mojo when you have the money for a service as they will change the top half of the talas system for a newer version which has a better lever and internal workings, also doing away with the chamber which needs the special tool and the top part which is a pain in the arse to set up correctly. As people have said its normal to have to un-weight the front wheel.