Blackspire are good but cheap.

Makes me glad I don’t race mtb’s and just ride bikes for fun, that would bore me senseless, I think I would be looking at pulling a sickie when race day came along or change the event I did!

Cheers, makes sense really!

If you got more than £50 in your paypal a/c its free to transfer to your bank account so why don’t you do this instead then you can choose who you get to service the forks.

Yes, both models have the same rear end. Great frame.

Poor tyre clearance! I run the Conti X-King 2.4’s on mine with no problems.

Yep you have 1 then. Its split to make it easier to instal.

should have come with 1, they normally do. Otherwise look on CRC they normally do all spares

if you get them trade,I,m gonna be emailing you next time I need a set!

eccles cakes

good choice

will make it smoother. Look at power cordz, expensive but light, very smooth shifting and wont stretch.

A 9 speed will work perfectly fine, its more about the spacing between the rings on your cassette to fit on the free hub. So don’t worry about it and use your existing cranks and save money!

Search about on the net, you will get a lot of items a lot cheaper, Merlin are a good site which never seem to come up on google, also look at on one web site, they seem to sell items at really stupid prices like £250 brakes per end for £100 or less, schwalbe tyres at £20 instead of £45. I searched high and low to find things to sell to fund my dream ASR-5 build, thought I had nothing to sell but scrapped together another grand some how! where theirs a will theirs a way! Its really nice having a custom specced bike just the way you would want it, and then to piece it together yourself is all part of the journey/fun. I got my Yeti frame from free flow bikes, free delivery and price matched frame at £1350 also chris king headset at £130, very good service and will price match anything, how a bike shop should be run. You could always get a Canyon like suggested earlier then sell the frame and stick the parts on the frame of your choice ie Yeti ASR-5 as this would probably work out to be the cheapest way as their prices can’t be matched and the parts are top notch.

Going tubeless is definitely worth it, best not to buy tubeless tyres just use no tubes tyre sealant to seal them. You will not be disappointed with the rubber Queens, truly awesome tyres fast and never let go. My mac lets me spell tyres the correct way!

Yeti ASR-5 alloy frame then hand pick what you want to hang off it.

+1 with rubber queens, or you can look at the X-kings 2.4 protection. Stay away from high rollers as slow imo.

Didn’t even bother test riding, just bought it as new it would be everything I wanted and more. Built it up with all my goodies inc 140mm talas FIT forks. Feel like I’m a child again every time I swing a leg over it which is 1 of the reasons we all ride bikes imo.

222 not so hard to undo. its what middleburn recommend.

Excellent and many thanks, hopefully meet up soon.

Many thanks for the info sharki, Thursday was when I intend on riding the Quantocks to explore more. I will be getting their around 2.30-3pm and will be riding till 7 or later depending on light, weather and my legs! I normally ride from the great woods car park or the layby at Holford as like to finish on a down hill, but if your about and want to meet up name your place and preferred cakes!? email is in profile if would prefer.

+1 on the conti rubber queens, 2.2 are massive, or you can get the conti X-king 2.4 for a slightly rounder profile.

Whats the best way back up from bin combe descent, is it straight back up the road? I’m looking at finding any single track after, down adscombe area as seen the end of some by the camp in great wood. Always park in the great woods so would be a good end to the day.

Nope, never use it (Yeti ASR-5)

Cheers for info jambo

Careful now, your showing your age! I just wish I had found the delights of the Q much earlier than I did as feel all riding previous was just a waste of my time! Can you tell me if I am right in thinking the Bin combe descent on the map is the red line which sort of runs parallel with the great bear then drops away to the left or is it not on the map? just wondering as sharki recommended it in a previous thread a year ago.

Problem is these stupid new standards such as direct mount mech’s and press fit bottom brackets, all roadie stuff that isn’t needed on a MTB and makes life harder. I’m doing a similar conversion, was told to leave the front mech high up as will aid shifting for some reason, also if the ‘H’ screw needs to be longer purchase a longer one from local hardware shop and fit, this will solve your problem and be cheap.

In short, yes. They are pricey but a true fit and forget.

I would believe that all SKF bearings are made to the same standard, they will usually come in their own little sealed packet and will have the bearing number on the outer edge of the bearing some where. Just looked at ebay and they look ok to me, as SKF do seem to stick a ‘1’ in their bearing numbers ie 61902 = 6902, just make sue to get rubber sealed!

Got same hubs and used to replace with cheap bearings as well with bad results. I use SKF bearings now, will cost you around £35 – £40 for the set, but well worth the money, super smooth and really well sealed so will last a long time, very high quality product. SKF are 1 of the top bearing manufacturers so can’t go wrong. I got mine locally at Swindon bearings 01793 615171, I’m sure they will post to you if you have trouble sourcing them.

Fox have 2 different types of 10wt oil, as far as I can see the Green 10wt is basically a 7wt oil as this is the 1 you use if your fork should/used to take a 7wt oil. so don’t worry about it I reckon!

I bought the frame from free flow bikes, which is in Scotland (i’m not!) great service and thats the price they sorted out for me, I think it costs a little more maybe £30 – £40, not sure. You would expect a little discount when splashing out serious cash on a frame, which again was a great price at £1300, Would really recommend these people if ever in the market for a new bike/frame, it was free next day shipping as well.

More secure to have the 12mm bolt through. I have read somewhere the 2 different chip sets are meant to come with the frame, but I paid £20 for mine, and was looking for the DT Swiss one but apparently its only Shimano compatible where it slides all the way through and screws into its own nut on the other side, just like its pictured on Yeti’s website.

Yes you can, ‘Yeti’ or ‘THE’ do them but you have to thread them onto the outers. They are made of rubber but will still get mud and grit on them and still rub away at your frame. Best option is helicopter tape, and is cheapest of ebay. You can cut it to any size and shape you wish and is virtually invisible once on, also very tough and will last a lot longer than the normal patches you apply, it is costly but worth it. If require it to go onto bends etc you just heat it slightly with a hair dryer.

Well described pastcaring

and why not when you can get items near half the price at times.

Often find service is quicker through online shops, waited over 3 months once for a seat post which I could have got cheaper and next day at CRC! Also often find that unless you want to purchase a new bike costing loads their is really no service or interest from your LBS, some are good but the majority aren’t. My last bike was purchased online and on the phone from Free Flow bikes in Scotland and couldn’t rate the service more highly, shame that most of my LBS are more interested in their coffee machines!

Not sure, will have to ask the wife !!

Sounds like this is what they call a bush, used instead of bearings. Any Trek dealer should be able to get hold of a new one for you and also fix into the frame for you. Wont cost much either.

Probably single speeders with 29″ wheels!