Hope V2’s

Middleburn’s X-type Duo

Bleed with set of old pads in, do final top up on master cylinder then fix top cap on so whole system is closed then push back pistons with screw driver (old pads still in) then put your pads in that ur using and pull levers several times to set pads and line them up so touch disc at same time.

I always used to use superstar pads un till I went back to original hope pads and found that the superstar pads don’t last as long and are seriously lacking in bite/power. I think that paying a little more for the makers pads is well worth it in the long run.

OMG can’t believe the state of the world!!! Just get out and ride, this sounds utterly boring and just goes to enforce why I ride with friends and not an organised group. FFS this sort of crap just infuriates me, I hope to never meet people like this on the trails, and if I did I would pass you very quickly as you would be all stood around looking at a rock or some serious braking bumps!!!

Already got the new Tech Evo levers when I bought the V2 calipers, surprising thing is that the V2 caliper is only 14g heavier than the X2 which includes the pads! only thing that really makes the system heavier is their own dedicated floating disc rotor which weighs in around 40g heavier than the equivalent 183mm floating rotor and the braided hoses (which I swapped out for my normal black hope hoses)

Where is willoughby descent?

I have Talas 140mm FIT forks, I only run about 15-20mm of sag and will easily reach full travel when the trail dictates it. I do use enduro seals and fork juice so not sure if this slippery combo helps with the full travel..

Yep, stert combe into somerton is my favourite descent 2nd favourite is five lords but this one is easy to go wrong. Also 2 descents opposite the dead womens ditch car park are good, I prefer the track on the left (Their in the trees) Have fun

UK15 will get you £15 off just use before 2pm on the 28th and items need to be in stock.

Get Hope, piece of piss to bleed

Your always going to deal with the shop you got it from not silverfish them selves so who cares what you may have heard about them bigsl…..

Sounds about where you want it, my sag does vary depending on weight of pack, somewhere between 35%-40% I just like to feel sat in the bike. I felt like I was being tipped forward if ran it at 20%-25% and I used to run my Trek EX the same. I run around 165psi in the rear shock and never use the pro pedal.

Yep, I got mine at the very start of the year and its a 2011 frame, just go out and thrash it, mine loves me for it! I also run mine with around 40% sag so it rides a little softer.

Don’t listen to any of the tripe about these frames failing, this was all in the very early days of these frames, over 2 years now. Yeti have sorted this and you get a 5 year warranty anyway. I have been thrashing mine on some serious terrain and off some good drops of at least 4 feet all at a fast pace as I don’t really hold back. I have been very reckless with this frame and have never had any concerns with its strength. You will love this frame….end of thread.

mucky nutz fender bender, really cheap.

Stick an extra washer in so to push the roller further out.

Hope tech Eco V2’s with 183mm rotors, sweet looking brakes and really powerfull also easy to look after.

Pictures of my home brew protection:

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Home brew Reverb protection[/url] by radsik gnarly![/url], on Flickr

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Home brew Reverb protection[/url] by radsik gnarly![/url], on Flickr

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Home brew Reverb protection[/url] by radsik gnarly![/url], on Flickr

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Home brew Reverb protection[/url] by radsik gnarly![/url], on Flickr

I find that spray may get through but the grit etc won’t.

I got some stretchy cloth from a free balaclava, cut it into a thinnish length about the 3rd of the posts length then zip tied it round the silver collar then pulled 2 top corners over the saddle rails at the back and tied them together. This works sweet because its stretched it doesn’t flap about and when the seat is lowered it isn’t so long that it gets in the way. Stops any grit getting to the seals. I feel this is better than a lizard skin or old inner tube as won’t trap crap against the seals and post.

Trail riding with rocks and roots I can see why you want pads but on smooth xc courses, no. As said the G-form would fit the bill and can be had in all black just follow the link:

http://www.g-formuk.com/products/knee-pads.html

I tried getting some of the Troy Lee KG5400 but none seem to be coming into the country at the moment.

I do see the point of pads, never used them my self but I’m in the process of getting some G-forms as old age is creeping up and every fall takes longer to recover from!

I can’t see that knee pads would be required with xc riding!? but I think the G-form pads fit your bill.

NO, just clean and service as usual. Couldn’t imagine riding a substandard bike.

Paceman you can order through your LBS or from g-formuk, they only just showed up this morning and only have them in 2XL which is the size your after. Link below:

http://www.g-formuk.com/products/knee-pads.html

*EDIT* Just looked again and their now showing in all sizes.

Cheers, that’s why I’m getting some now as the black ones are available

No worries, just popped up when I went onto crc but hadn’t been their all day!

TENUK but has to be used by end of today and £75 spend, 10% off basket.

xx or x0 had both and their isn’t much between them apart from weight and quality of materials.

I had super comps on another set of wheels and they kept snapping at the nipple so chose CX ray spokes due to their strength and fatigue life, I didn’t realise they did a super spoke as would have gone with them as just as strong but lighter (although the bladed CX ray spokes do look nice). I was always worried about weight on the wheels but after my latest build have come to the conclusion that it only truly matters on the outside of the wheel ie the rim. The big Chris King hubs are heavier but look the nuts!

Your right grum about them not being that cheap considering I bought mine at the start of the year for £1300 and that was the 2011 frame so would expect a little more discount as you would be looking at the 2012 frames this time of year. Something around £1000 would be more like it.

Everyone will say american classics, I would say go for stiffness. My build is CK hubs with sapim CX ray spokes and stans arch rims, total weight with rim strip and valves are 1720g, I used to have wheels that where 1580g and I don’t feel the weight gain over these as its all in the hubs but I do notice the stiffness of these wheels which is truly superb meaning they hold their line and corner excellently, they have also stood up to a lot of abuse and remained true.

Yeti ASR-5

Don’t listen to squiff, any tyre can be run tubeless as long as you use enough sealant to seal any imperfections in the tyre. I have managed to seal the thinnest of lightweight tyres in the past.

Reverb, £190 from HIBIKE. Light, smooth, best looking and mine has been very reliable.

Big volume tyres all the way. You will find they make a huge difference. I like the continental tyres either xkings or rubber queens or you could try the bonty xr4’s

Endura thermolite pro biblongs come with or without pad and are really warm and breathable, lasting very well, wore them last winter for commuting and normal riding and are still as new.

Spot on, as said can be a little unstable so weight the legs. The stand is very sturdy and well worth the money.

Crest, I’m a clumsy rider and just plough through stuff and mine have kept their shape and are nice and stiff.

Great fun though and I find that it really helps your handling skills for all seasons, hence why the brits are so good at downhill, not least the current world champ. I’m looking forward to it…

I have had many different wheels in the past (except 29ers as apparently they explode) and my latest set are around 100g heavier than my last set but much stiffer and this has made the biggest difference, I now feel like a riding god when cornering!