I think the UK models were 265bhp as standard but it’s not all about the numbers…don’t forget the older B5 S4’s are relatively light compared to some of the newer more modern cars out there…thus giving it a very respectful power to weight ratio.

What’s really surprised me is the drivability in terms of the torque on tap at such low revs. If you check out the audisrs forum what becomes obvious is the preference of the S4 over the RS4 in terms of being everyday drivable and the usable torque from a low 1.5k rpm. Off the line the S4 is noticeable quicker but when over the 3.5k rpm mark the bigger turbos on the RS4 take over. There’s a lot of debate over going to a KO3 hybrid as opposed to KO4. RS4 top end pace with lower rev torque appears to be the elusive golden egg.

I used the On One carbon Fatty for a while before moving to a Ti Truss and really liked it. It’s a 135 QR front axle which stiffened everything up very well.

If you want to dip your toe in I’m selling it for much cheapness!!

I’ve just bought a S4 B5 avant…with the 2.7 twin turbo. I’ve always hankered after something that is approaching classic status but still ‘affordable’ A good RS4 B5 is circa £20k and needs a small fortune to keep it that way.

I’ve tweaked a few things already…RS4 brakes, suspension & a custom exhaust which has improved things a bit more. Planning on a remap soon which will bring it into 911 beating territory. It sounds just amazing when you stamp on the loud pedal…I feel like a 20year old again!

The best part though (IMO) and as above, it’s a sleeper…just looks like a old Audi avant.

However…it’s not the most agile in the twistys…as someone else described it…it’s like building a fast car and then strapping a rhino on the bonnet. I had a few geometry tweaks made which helped with the turn in a bit but I’ve got a few other mods to do to improve turn in even more…fatter rear ARB’s and a 4:1 diff mod make the rear end more slidy whilst ‘allegedly’ improving turn in. IMO it’ll never be as good as the slower but better handling A4 1.8TQS.

If you’re into ‘older’ cars then good examples are getting more pricy and harder to find.

Chip shop Friday at the works canteen today.

Battered haddock with battered onion rings and lots of beige chips…finished off with a nice cuppa and a couple of forrero rochers….heaven.

Also did a 21mile singletrack commute via the woods into the office so not feeling guilty in the slightest…burp.

Another bouncy stooge…my 4th one so far…this one is a keeper.

Pic from my ‘longer than usual’ commute this morning.

Untitled by Rosscopeco[/url], on Flickr

Another pic from a recent Torridon trip before I changed from the Jones bars to the Stooge Moto bars. Still undecided on which bars are better.

Ti Stooge by Rosscopeco[/url], on Flickr

Last pic is just a nice pic, IMO!

Ti Stooge by Rosscopeco[/url], on Flickr

19 years old, 1992.

Jobby brown Mk2 Vauxhall Cavalier 1.6L.

Screen Shot 2018-05-11 at 14.25.05 by Rosscopeco[/url], on Flickr

Bought it from my Uncle for £400 and it cost me another £1200 insurance third party. 😳

It came from the Isle of Lewis and as such was a rusty piece of crappiness with none of the door locks working…becuase they had never been used!

Sold if 4 months later for £500 with only 3 cylinders working!

Loved it too much…

Thread revival.

So I got Andy to make me a Ti Stooge based on a bouncy fork and 650b+ tyre clearance. Just back from it’s first few outings in Torridon and my local trails. It’s very nice!

Some gratuitous photos

Ti Stooge by Rosscopeco[/url], on Flickr

Ti Stooge by Rosscopeco[/url], on Flickr

Ti Stooge by Rosscopeco[/url], on Flickr

Ti Stooge by Rosscopeco[/url], on Flickr

Thread revival.

So I got Andy to make me a Ti Stooge based on a bouncy fork and 650b+ tyre clearance. Just back from it’s first few outings in Torridon and my local trails. It’s very nice!

Some gratuitous photos

Ti Stooge by Rosscopeco[/url], on Flickr

Ti Stooge by Rosscopeco[/url], on Flickr

Ti Stooge by Rosscopeco[/url], on Flickr

Ti Stooge by Rosscopeco[/url], on Flickr

I’ve had several sets over the years….always just bought direct and built them up myself. Wheel building is strangely addictive…

You will get charged duty and postage can be more than you think…still much more cost effective to go direct. A few pals usually just club together and make up a bigger order…thus sharing the postage costs.

I’ve only had one rim failure…a 65mm 26×4.8 fat bike rim went ‘pop’ when I was going full chat down an old landrover track. I didn’t hit anything so it was a genuine carbon failure. LB were great and after a few photos of the damage they sent out a new rim FOC.

I’ll be placing another order for some soon…!

Nextie rims is another overseas option. Not had any myself but a few pals have and they seem to be as good if not a little better made than LB’s.

I’m commuting on my steel jones / Ti truss with a rohloff….not light!

Spec:

Jones carbon loops

KS Dropper

Rear 650b+ WTB ranger on a 50mm carbon rim

Front 29 x 2.2 big apple on a rabbit hole

14.5kg inc water / tools & spare tube!

I used my sons uber light road bike for a week and ended up saving circa 4mins over 8 miles. It can’t really be described as comfy, has scary little grip, has dodgy brakes (compared to a MTB) and was crap at weaving through the traffic. The Jones is just uber comfy, loads of grip, stops on a dime and can easily handles the twists and turns with loads of confidence.

I don’t worry about the extra 4mins it takes me…

Took @mikewsmith advice and called them this morning!

They are temporarily out of stock and will be going back online when stock levels have been replenished.

I’ve been looking at their site for the last 2 months as I’m in the middle of planning a full build. I just thought it strange that a sizeable retailer like Evans would allow stock levels of popular group sets to dwindle to nothing. There will obviously be some kind of clever business stagey behind this!

@firestarter I paid $575 plus a little towards the custom charges (ahem).

XACD were really easy to deal with other then Porters demands to answer his emails within 30s of you receiving them. @bedmaker had good things to say about Waltly too.

Another +1 for Putoline here. Can’t think how I managed before!

Used it for circa 2 years now and have never looked back.

Bought a £20 deep fat fryer. Maintenance has never been easier.

1. Remove chain from bike via quick link 2. Chuck the still dirty chain in the wire basket and switch fryer on…leave for 5mins. 3. Remove wire basket from now molten oil and give it a wee shake. 4. Remove hot chain and leave to cool…another 2 mins. 5. Reattach chain to bike.

I do this maybe twice month at the most. I usually commute circa 60miles a week then at least once  or twice in the woods at the weekend or evenings.

Simples

Very nice. Looks like you’ve got a nice build there. Hope it rides as well as it looks!

I’m in that same ‘mid-life’ crisis bit and have just placed an order for a very similar Ti frame. Bedmaker tried to advise me to go directly<span style=”font-size: 0.8rem;”> but I decided to go through Mr Stooge as opposed to going through Waltly or XACD. </span><span style=”font-size: 0.8rem;”>I’m willing to pay a little more to get someone who’s qualified and has proven examples of </span><span style=”font-size: 0.8rem;”>their designs as opposed to me guessing a few things. I’m also to pay for someones time, </span>especially<span style=”font-size: 0.8rem;”> someone who’s been good to me before and has a good reputation in the UK.</span>

In saying that I’ve had a couple of custom Ti Truss forks made directly from XACD and they are very very nice things.

Also planning on 27.5+ HT rig on a shortish 120mm travel fork but still thinking about the rest of the build. For the first time in over 15 years, I’m going to go for conventional gears as opposed to Rolhoff…will I die?! Decisions decisions decisions!

That looks great and a good idea to boot. Was about to buy one but might give this a whirl instead. More details please inc pump spec and al the rest of the gubbins.

I presume it’s 12v?

Scotroutes – touché!

Scotroutes…I thought you felt they were too warm?!

It’s the ‘normal’ or ‘original’ Jones I currently ride.

Anyone know if there is such a thing as a FS design of the same handling characteristics?

Sanny did a review on a few a while ago…bought the Keela on the back of the review and I’m very impressed.

Not too heavy so good for most days, cheap so no tears and snotters if you fall or rip it.

http://singletrackworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/group-test-lightweight-waterproof-jackets/%5B/url%5D

Have one for commuting and another for hitting the trails.

Back to front waterproof jersey, that’s the best idea so far

I’d rather not use a mudguard, so hence the question.

Depending on the type you use, they scratch you’re paint, spin out of line, flap about like crazy on rough trails. Its not a fashion thing, I used a mudhugger for years but got fed up with all the flapping about and scratched paintwork from cable ties regardless of how much / type of heli tape protection you use. Much prefer the skid mark up the back now!

Like the gilet idea, thought about that before but never understood the point, I do now though.

Alternativly I’ve got some unused goretex fabric kicking about from a pair of army trousers I cut down into shorts. Might just sew that into the inside my existing jersey and see how that goes. Incidentally, best goretex shorts I’ve ever owned.

Cheers Tazzy

I’m not totally set on having one that takes 29+ as the ‘cush’ obviously comes from the bouncy fork. The correct offset is however IMO critical to how it handles.

Looking forward to seeing how it goes.

Top tip Ton….can’t believe I never thought of that before. The Glasgow store has loads in stock…that’s tomorrows ride sorted now!

Cheers

Local Glasgow trails have a few good ones

Mangina
Broon streak
Avoid the grumpy old man

bikesian65 – To be frank I think it’s a marmite thing. Some love them…most don’t.

I believe AlasdairMc above has one on his Jones so he’ll be able to give you a more specific view.

I’ve had two for almost 10 years. I’ve build all my frames choices around using them..including a custom fat bike. I love them and can’t really see past them. The pros outweigh the cons with the biggest criticism probably relating to the perceived weight disadvantage. IMO…this is a moot point in that unless you’re super skinny with no body fat an extra 250g+ on your bike isn’t really a justifiable argument.

Virtually zero maintenance, no gear changing issues in any terrain, in any weather, caked in mud, whilst stationary beats all the cons from my perspective.

I also run a SS set up and have to admit the lightness and quick spin up of the rear wheel is nice, but as above, all the pros out weight the cons.

Interesting thread

– indeed, this thread just keeps giving. A huge thanks for all the contributions, I’ve found them all very helpful in coming to a decision.

I’ve also posted this on the MTBR forum, whilst also speaking directly to several owners…..all the feedback points towards the standard 29 Jones.

My decision is therefore to go for the standard Jones with a truss fork…and depending on what’s available out there a Ti Truss fork. To this end, I’ve had several PM emails from members who are selling various iterations of Jones…a big thanks to you all.

Depending on my experiences with the standard Jones, I suspect the new SWB will be a future purchase…although I’ll have to get a A12 148 Rohloff…flash kidney and liver sale coming soon to a transplant centre near you!

Now to sell my custom 853 fat bike frame made by Bencooper to fund the project…;)

ton…am I right in saying you also have or had the standard Jones too? If I’m right and comparing both then, the standard is the better frame to go for in terms of nimbleness? Comfort wise….was it night and day comparing the standard to the plus Jones?

Thanks Gotama…good to know re flex.

1989 Raleigh Blueridge

Blue & orange frame.

Bought it from a pal of a pal, £200 bargain.

I’m a rohloff fan…I’ve got 2! I’d say they were near perfect for fat bike use as you’re probably not a weight weeny on fat tyres and the straight chain line removes all the hassle with trying to squeeze things in past the chain stays and tyres.

That being said, I usually ride SS for local trails (2hrs rides) and use the Rohloff for longer days or bike packing.

The SS is just a lovely light & simple set up…the extra heft of the rohloff isn’t that much of an issue when bike packing!

Orange all the way for me…repainted at least 2 frames over the years orange…lovely looking things they were.

Now to decide what to sell to make way for a MK3…anyone interested in a full fat custom 853 frame made by Ben Cooper with fillet welding??!!

Olives are really tasty

Whisky is the best tonic

I’ll always be fat

Yup…marketing hype IMO. Having tried them all I can’t see past Putoline myself…5 mins in the deep fat fryer every 3 or 4 rides.

To confirm….this is now sorted. It was indeed the Auto Climb toggle feature that was toggling the screen colour.

Happy days

I ‘think’ I may have found the answer….

My ‘auto climb’ was turned on…and within that setting the ‘invert colours’ was on…my understanding is that when the watch detects I’m climbing it toggles to a different data screen…however given that I’ve turned all my other data screens to off…all it does is invert the screen colour.

Will test the theory out in tomorrow’s ride.

I usually use a shallow baking tray, a good slug of Trichloroethylene (Basically a industrial alcohol cleaning agent) then set light to it (stand well back and best done outdoors) till it’s all burned up. Wait till it’s cooled and then pop the disk in the oven at max for 10min…hasn’t failed me yet and leaves no residue…other than the wife smacking me over the head as her nice baking tray is toasted 😉

I ran the whole of this winter between 32/19 & 32/20. I’m circa 85ish KG….some lighter folks around here go down to 32×18 or lower…I ran 32/18 for 2 weeks and ended up with rather inflamed knees so when back to wimpish ratios!

These ratios worked well on full fat (3.8 & 4.0rear x 4.8front) and plus fat (650bx3rear & 29x3front). Rolling diameters between fat 4.0 & 650bx3 are negligible IMO.

Our hills here in sunny Glasgow (mugdock) were all relatively short but punchy so all ‘just’ about doable depending on your willingness to burst a lung or two! I have to get out of the saddle for all such climbs.

For me SS was fine for anything up to a 2.5hr ride…anything longer than that and I was burst. Summer rides means I’m back on the Rolloff and going out for longer trips but missing the lightish rear end flickability.

Nice one John…just wait for Porters forks…then you’ll have a proper bike…none of this suspension nonsense!

Time to tickle the full Ti frame itch me thinks…

It’s a 1.9Tdi 102

Cheers all…glad I asked. Re-map now duly booked in for a Celtic tune.

CT suggest a gain to circa 160bhp and a similar % bump in Torque…not overly bothered by economy but the thought of trying to slog it up hills and down dales with a fully loaded van with 102 makes me want to cry!

Happy days…

Happy with some joints…life is too short to make it a one piece item.

Just looking for a guide as I don’t want to end up short or with rolls of the stuff left.

How much carpet depends how many joints you’re happy to have.

Probably fit out as described above. Would 12m2 be enough for walls and another 6m2 for the roof?