San Sebastien?

If you don’t need to record & aren’t bothered by gaming, also consider the Sony BDP S790. Richer Sounds have it for £200.

My strive came with an ‘adaptor’ to allow the use of iscg devices. Fitted a LG1+ when I converted to 1×10

I’m 35 and use mine to make the 1.5 mile commute to work much more interesting.

You can get €10 off if you “like” them on facebook, but I’ve never seen promotional offers like my inbox has been spammed with from Wiggle/CRC/Ribble et al over the last 3 months.

They discount end-of-line stuff to fantastic prices, but just don’t seem to publicise it. You have to be lucky enough to be browsing their wares to find them.

Do you predominantly run the stove with the vents closed/nearly closed? Or are you burning wet wood?

edit – beaten by everyone else.

Mounting under is pretty tricky with a shifter I’ve found. Under on the left with no front shifter works best.

If paired with the new shimano stubby brake levers it’s a real PITA to get everything right with a shifter too. No one-finger braking, or shifter paddles in the way of the grip or reverb just out of reach. Scruff has it right with “Either way something’s compromised”.

My wife’s is mounted underneath on the left with shifter & brake and mine is mounted on top on the left with just a brake. IMO hers is too far from the grip to comfortably change.

€239, including bleed kit: http://www.bike-components.de/products/info/p29471_Reverb-125mm-Sattelstuetze-mit-Remote-Matchmaker-rechts-.html

I’ve not tried to order any myself, so not sure how it works, but Rose Bikes have Open Pros on tiagra hubs for £131 the set. They always seem to show as out of stock, so not sure if they build them to order like Merlin.

IP ban. It also means anyone else that uses your internet will be banned too.

I’ve IP banned people on a forum I moderate & inadvertently banned all of the local university.

I’ve also migrated to 527s from 512s for the same reason as above.

wrap the chain round the biggest rings at front & rear & not through dérailleur, add 2 links.

http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain

Let all the air out of your shock & compress the suspension to do this for a full-sus.

It does for a bit, then you either get used to having to pedal or start utilising more uplifts.

Sushi & monster munch.

To echo what McHamish has said, I have a chinese lad that works for me & he hates it if anyone refers to him as a chink.

I also work with a chap who’s parents originate from pakistan. If you called him a “****” he would punch your lights out.

Both terms are racist because of the history of their use. Comparing them to “Brit” demonstrates some next-level stupidity.

Easily done; I’ve done the same before.

Keep hold of it as it should be the right size for a 200mm rotor if you ever feel the need. Someone may correct me on this though…

My money’s on the aerial having moved or water getting in the coax.

I changed mine myself recently, using these guys http://www.aerialsandtv.com/ for online advice & ultimately to supply the cable, pole, aerial & fixings. Previously had a “bacofoil” aerial which blew down in winds earlier this year. I’m lucky enough to both have direct line of sight to my nearest transmitter & a central valley roof, which made changing it really quite easy. HD freeview has been perfect since.

Raceblade longs FTW. No more frame attachment as they slot in next to your QRs, but they’re a bit more of a faff to put on as a result. But none of the incessant tyre rub that comes with cruds.

got a link op?

Black & gold is a classic combo, altough if you’ve any aspirations of moving to another coloured frame at a later date then I’d go for black. Black goes with everything.

Hope rear QR, seat clamp, headset & hubs. Superstar 9mm front QR (which is a garish gold) & chainring bolts from an unremembered source. I would consider a hope BB if it weren’t for the price of shimano ones from Rose.

inflate with a tube to seat one of the beads. Remove tube, add fairy to unseated bead, core out, pump for your life.

This has worked for me with maxxis HRs, Advantages & Laarsens on Crest & Arch and Hans Dampfs, Fat Alberts & Big Bettys on Flows and Sun Ringles.

I did make one of those compressors from a fizzy drink bottle & duck tape the other day which made the process a lot easier.

I’m in one. None of the hassle of having to reclaim tax/adjust tax code, no paying NI on your contributions & my company pay the NI they would have paid on my contributions into my pension too, meaning I get an increase of 13.8%.

jfletch has it right on the mortgage & reference salary too.

Standard raceblades will fit, but aren’t really long enough to keep your feet dry & can be a real fiddle to ensure they don’t rub. I’ve just (this afternoon) fitted SKS raceblade longs to mine in an attempt to avoid the rubbing & wet feet issues. Hoping that the gap in the middle doesn’t mean the calipers get covered in crud as that’s what killed my last ones.

Concrete your garden. That’ll teach ’em.

Stans updated their website earlier this year to say they no longer recommended the use of Schwalbe tyres on their rims due to them blowing off the rim too easily.

Edit; Just had a look & it appears they’ve removed the comment.

for me the biggest thing would be to have a floor pump where the head didn;t get bunged up with blowback from tyres running tubeless with sealant.

That’ll be why my track pump isn’t working as well as it used to then! (not that it worked very well in the first place).

OP: a button to release air from the tyre without removing the adaptor, akin to those on shock pumps, would be handy.

Untighten the bolt that attaches the mech to the mech hanger & see if it moves away from the cassette slightly.

Are you likely to ever use 26-11? The only implication of using a mech without enough capacity for your gears is that it won’t be able to take up the slack when the chain is at it’s longest. 26-11 needs capacity of 37. The mech will cope with all other gears.

Edit – also, if you’ve switched from 3×9 to 2×10, did you shorten the chain? This might be the issue with dropping the chain.

Edit profile> above it are two grey boxes with “STW” and “Networks” on it. You want the “Networks” one

edit: too slow.

Another vote for bleeding it.

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Prince Albert Classic[/url] by ronnie101[/url], on Flickr

no idea on weight, but it rides nice.

Used a Saris Bones 3 on my wife’s MX5 (the new shape folding hardtop version). It was fine with 2 hardtails on it, not so good with full sussers as you felt the boot was about to get wrenched off.

Biggest problem you’ve got is that the bikes obscure the lights & reg plate; I used to tie a spare reg plate to the outer bike & never got pulled on the lights, but I think I was probably just lucky.

And whilst they’re good fun cars, there’s no way I’d go back to having it as the only car. You’ll soon realise how impractical they are!

Try riding the roadbike less and mtb more.

installed it on my 3GS without problems. I’ll echo others’ sentiments that it seems a little quicker than ios5.

And whilst trying to replace google maps discovered that you can switch your browser to Chrome, which allows me to sync bookmarks with my laptops, doesn’t limit you to 8 tabs and has a slightly larger viewing area.

what’s wrong with your pivots Mr E?

big:big won’t be a problem as the mech can handle 36t rear ring. Only your chain length will affect this. The mech’s “capacity” is it’s ability to pick up slack. With your set up, you wouldn’t be able to use 24/13 or 24/11.

Either replace the mech, change the 38t for a 34t or don’t use those two gears.

Scraper seal in the post & on it’s way to me FOC from mojo.

As far as I see it, it’s a choice of either top & bottom guide or top guide & clutch mech. Both should ensure you don’t lose your chain. Just a top or just a clutch mech and you’d risk losing your chain.

It does depend on the terrain and way that you ride though.

I’m going to call mojo on monday. The fork’s less than 12 months old & if it’s a known issue to Fox, it should be a warranty fix. I’ll let you know how I get on.