I’ve been up there a couple of times recently on weekends when both the weather & trail conditions were fantastic and not seen any other riders bar my group. Even Great Wood was quiet (although I believe the uplift wasn’t operating temporarily).
Everyone that hears mine is blown away at the quality. £99 it’s bang-on your budget. The only problem is finding stock as they sell out so quick! Keep an eye on their facebook for details of new stock.
Talas suffers a lot more stiction than Floats. I’ve just converted my Talas to Floats for this very reason and the difference is quite marked. Less to go wrong too.
I’m still impressed with my contents policy from More Than.
I tried them; wasted 30 minutes on the phone only to be told that my specified valuables exceeded their upper limit (£10k I think). Worth bearing in mind for anyone with multiple expensive bikes, engagement rings, watches etc.
Yourcoverinsurance also offer unlimited cover for bikes in the house without specifying them. The optional extra for bikes is for cover away from home, which does add a hefty premium if you’ve got a few.
Depends what time of day, but I’ve never seen it REALLY busy. Sometimes there’s no-one, other times there might be 4 or 5 people.
And I’d echo santacoops’ advice. Park down the bottom near the Create Centre, a few laps of the pump track & then up Rownham Hill for laps of LW & AC. Find a local to point you in the direction of a more interesting descent from LW down to the tow path when you’re finished.
L_P – I’m considering doing the same to my 36s, as the difference in plushness between my talas & my friend’s floats is quite considerable.
I’ve disassembled my wife’s 32 floats a couple of times (fixing the issue with the foam ring), so reassembling the bits in the above picture shouldn’t be a problem, but how easy is taking the Talas bits out? Do I just follow the first bits of THIS? Mine are 2012 Talas BTW.
And the answer to your question is that the negative spring sits inside the cup, with the flat end of the cup sitting against the circlip at the lowest part of the stanchion.
Both my wife and I have flow ex on pro2 evos and have found the same as above. Hans Dampfs come up REALLY big!
Also went for j bend spokes for same reason as above. SP looks good, but I don’t want the potential extra hassle if something goes wrong on a trip away.
I bled mine (shimano) after 3 weeks in the Alps & Spain & the fluid was black! They felt fine BTW; the bleed wasn’t necessitated, it was in tandem with a hose change.
not at all, unless they used for a deposit then you need to evidence them. Even if you have savings that could be used to make the mortgage repayments (if out of work for eg) we don’t care and will be far more interested in your earnings.
Income from investments? Is that added to your earnings?
I have an e-thirteen guide ring & a SS components top guide on the HT at the moment. Riding rock gardens last night the chain was bouncing off, so I need another way of securing it.
£90 on LG1 trail, £60 on XT shadow+ or £45 on Zee shadow+.
When you say they’re not bleeding properly, what’s the end result? Lever still spongy or too much throw?
Not sure what you’re doing with the fifth bullet point. Once I’ve done bottom up & then top down, I close the bleed nipple, funnel still in situ & pump the lever until it’s solid. Then hold the lever & quickly open & close the bleed nipple. This should remove any bubbles in the caliper. Then close the bleed nipple & with the funnel still attached, pump the lever until solid with the caliper at 22 degrees, 45 degrees and 67 degrees to move any hidden bubbles in the lever.
Bristol has escaped the snowpocalypse (it’s just grey & cold), so I’ve only got BBC news’s endless snow updates to go on, but I’m guessing the Dales will be covered in a fairly thick blanket of snow?
Slightly related, but anyone know what the deal with Schwalbe’s new “supergravity” is, rather than “snakeskin”? More protection on the sidewalls or more protection all over?
I switched to yourcoverinsurance. Policy docs & wording are rather confusing but it does seem that, whilst in the house, bikes are considered “contents”, rather than “valuables” and insured up to your contents limit without needing to specify them. Confirmed this on the phone with them & went through policy wording several times with a fine toothcomb just to make sure.
If you want cover away from home for bikes >£1000, you need to choose the separate option, but this adds a significant premium if you’ve got a few. Mine was an additional £500, but as neither my wife or I leave the nice bikes unattended anywhere, I decided against it.
Isn’t lowers service every 20 hours for fox, but 50 hours for RS? TBH, the process (for both) is so easy, I’m not sure why people wouldn’t bother. Especially given the concequences with Fox stanchion wear.
I was about to buy a set of 2013 Revelations until I discovered that in order to change the travel you need to change the whole air spring assembly. Which, if they were actually available in the UK, would set you back about ~£80! Quite a difference from adding a spacer or two. Unfortunately I can’t find any 2012 models with the RCT3 damper and 15mm axle, so I’m about to click buy on a set X-fusion velvets instead.
Proper tools now acquired & tried again. One side went in fine but feels exactly the same (rough in, smooth out). The other side won’t even go in straight & has gouged the race. Have I borked the hub shell?
I think I read recently that a lot of these limits don’t apply to bikes stored in the house. Not sure if I misunderstood, but as our bikes are never left unattended away from home and are stored inside the house, this could be quite an important point for me.