http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Make-a-Ghetto-Tubeless-Tire-Inflator.html

Enough for a day Dingabell, easily. Then either Climachx or Penmachno the next day.

Just buy SP41 outer (£23 for 10m from Parker International) & ptfe coated inners (Fibrax ones are £2 from UK bike store).

If you wanted consistent performance, go for full-length outer with a cable oiler 6″ from the rear mech.

I’ve been having the same issue as you mboy, but with the rear on my M785 (which I’ve put goodridge hoses on). Feels firm when first bled, but after an hour or two of riding (but not if the bike isn’t used) the lever comes to the bars. It’s ruined a couple of trips to Afan & the mendips recently. Did the same as druidh for the last bleed & am off for a weekend at Brechfa/Doethi on friday, so hopefully its solved it.

Optimum chain length = wrap it round big front & big rear (not through dérailleur) + 2 links.

How old is the cassette? Sounds like its too worn for the new chain to me. Unlikely to be the hub.

As an aside, the xbox won’t play video through dvi as it thinks you’re trying to pirate the content, or at least it didn’t last time I tried it. Not had a go since 4OD/5OD/Lovefilm apps have been added.

Yep, I do. Picture quality is better than on my 1080p TV too. No hdmi input on my monitor, only dvi, so needed an adaptor for it.

Only downside is you’ll need to route the audio separately. I got the separate audio cable running to an old amp (one of these). Used to have floorstanders hooked up, but the wife complained that “it sounds like i’m in an effing warzone” & now use headphones.

What brakes are they? What pads (sintered/resin/kevlar)?

They both use banjos, non? So use the banjo bolt from the Saints with the hose connected to the XTR lever.

£20 the lot & I’ll kindly take them off your hands? 😉

The problem with selling 2nd hand shimano bought in the UK is that the germans sell this stuff ridiculously cheap & I’d price accordingly. This might mean quite a loss if you’ve bought at UK prices.

Saying that, I’ve seen 2nd hand stuff go on here for almost as much as you could get it brand new from the germans.

Careful not to pop them out too far. Clean with a cotton bud with IPA on it & lube with mineral oil once dried.

According to a Swedish friend at work, the books were turned into series for Swedish television, but significantly edited down to be condensed into the three films for international release. This is why a lot of stuff in the book is missing from the film and the plot occasionally seems to jump.

OT, but was it you (Fivespot) that was trying to fit an angleset to the Nerve? Did you have any joy?

I’ve just had to replace mine after 7 months, although having felt the difference between new & old, they’ve been in a bad state for at least 3 months. IMO changing the drive-side spacer design to reduce drag has led to poorer sealing. I’ve had the freehub off after a particularly wet trip to Wales & found water inside.

Before you buy new ones, knock them out to find out which are gone. My drive-side S61903 and the S17287 and middle S6803 were all rough as ****. The remaining S61903 & S6803 were as smooth as the new ones. UKBikestore sell them separately, but they’re not cheap. Expect to pay £40 for a full set.

bump – anyone?

They’re OK, work well with interupted cables but IME nowhere near as good as a one piece decent outer and good inner, lubed up with Cable Magic. Trouble free shifting for a good couple of years.

I use them with continuous outer – just put one ~8″ from the end of the outer by the derailleur, allowing me to blast all the crud out of that section. I’ve gone belt & braces and put some heatshrink at either end of the oiler too. It also means that, when needed, I’ll only have to replace that 8″ section of outer. Seems to have worked this winter, as I’ve not had any shifting issues.

£60 a set?! You could get 8 pairs of organic delivered for that.

Or for sintered £15 an end w/o fins; £20 an end with…

http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/products/bike-parts/brakes/brake-pads/disc-brakes/?q=xtr&brand=764&page=1&viewtype=list&count=16&order=topseller#anchor_products

+1

I had an issue with the charger for one of the XMLs & he replaced everything & threw in a spare battery pack to compensate too.

Need more info on the format of data in column B to help.

Yeah, switched mine to Goodridge. Kit 107 is the one you want, but use the shimano banjo bolt.

pedals

£150

😆 😆

No.

Thanks! I’ve just run out of zero tabs, so perfect timing.

With the M775 levers you could see what was happening by looking underneath. Don’t think it’s so obvious with the M785s, but I haven’t looked in any detail.

Anyhoo…

Screw out meant that the cam in the lever attached to the piston moved horizontally for a few mm before going vertically. This meant that the lever would have to move further to produce the same movement in the piston ie more modulation. It also produced some movement in the levers (out I think). More modulation means more lever travel before full-engagement, so this would make sense.

done

And another happy PCS9 user here

loosened the rear caliber and then tightened it while holding the brake lever in – to make sure the brakes were straight

Before you attack the rotor with a wrench try http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akIWGqEE0PY to set the brakes up & see if it still rubs.

If I align it really carefully and centrally by eye, the brake feels much, much better. It’s still not perfect, but loads better.

I’ve centralised the caliper as per the video by the Hope guys to ensure the pistons are working an equal amount. Initially it feels perfect, but when left for a while the lever comes to the bar & pumps up to feel firm. This isn’t set-up; there’s air in there somewhere.

And I’ve popped a piston out in another set of brakes before; not a mistake I’ll make again!

I seem to be having the same problem & its doing my head in. Front is fine; always a problem with the rear.

I’ve taken the brake off the bike to bleed & mounted the lever on a spare set of bars in the workstand so the hose is vertical. Followed shimano’s instructions to the letter (syringe to push fluid up into the funnel, then running oil from the funnel down through the caliper, knocking caliper, lever & hose with a screwdriver throughout both processes). No sign of air coming out either end & the lever feels firm (with the bleed block in place).
Refit to bike, leave overnight & the lever comes to the bars at first, but pumps up to feel firm; a clear indication that there’s air in there somewhere. Bleed again (off the bike), same result; lever to the bar at first this morning, but pumps up to feel firm.

Any ideas where the air could be hiding & how to get it out? Could it be anything to do with the auto-adjustment of the pistons to compensate for pad wear? Will try using something thinner than the bleed block tonight.

See MrSmith’s post above. Where do you think we are?

Prices have stagnated, they can only go up.

Unless interest rates rise & the 1,000,000 people that are already 3 months in arrears on their mortgage payments get reposessed. Such an influx of properties to the market means prices will only go one way. And that’s not up.

IMO prices will stagnate until wages increase to reduce the multiple, or they’ll fall to do the same. I certainly wouldn’t be maxing myself out on a mortgage.

18bikes. 10% off for premier subscribers too.

MD – “Site traffic is low and our ad revenues are suffering, what can we do?”
Editor – “According to many of our sister papers of similar provincial distribution, writing an article that paints cyclists in a bad light seems to increase traffic.”
MD – “BRB, trolling.”

At your age you’d need to put around 18% into a pension in order to get half your current salary (in today’s terms) when you retire at 65. Employer contributions will reduce your contributions – does your work offer a pension scheme?

I bought a SLX crankset from them about a year ago (Clearly not a bike). Delivery was quick (faster than some UK companies) & process pain-free.

The only downside was that you have to pay in Euros (as opposed to Rose who charge in sterling), incurring a charge from your CC provider & not knowing the exact sterling cost until the transaction appears on your statement.

Some of the old (aguably tired) trails have been erased, but there’s still plenty of cheeky stuff around. You need to look harder & rather than bitching about trail blockages, get off your bike & clear the trail.

I switched from M520s to the M785s in October & there’s no way I’d go back. Better support for your foot, easier to find the cleat in a rush and if you don’t find it in time (like if you have to dab on a technical descent), there’s enough platform to get a descent grip. I do use FiveTen spd shoes though, so the rubber sole probably helps with this. Not used the other shimano platform spds to comment.

to separate ‘John’ and ‘Smith’ simply ‘find’ Smith and ‘replace’ with nothing

I assumed he’d not got a list of multiple “SMITH John” entries, but lots of different names & didn’t want to find & replace all the “John”, “Jack”, “Rita”, “Bob” and “Sue”s individually. As they’re all separated with a space, text to columns works best.

“Text to columns” using space as the separator will give you “john” in one column and “smith” in the other.

If I understand correctly, its not the http.. or .co.uk he wants to remove.

He’s got a list of names which currently look like:

rondo101
portlyone
LabMonkey
reggiegasket

but wants

rondo101
portlyone
LabMonkey
reggiegasket

The macro will do that in seconds.

Which version of Excel are you using LM?

Create a macro.

Alt F11.

Create new module & paste:

Sub RemoveHyperlinks()

‘Remove all hyperlinks from the active sheet
ActiveSheet.Hyperlinks.Delete

End Sub

Run the macro.