My pro iii rear eats pawl springs and the outer freehub bearing for breakfast. The problem started I think when hope changed the endcap design – there is now a gap / hole between the cassette and the outer freehub bearing – the race / bearing seal is now easily visible (and to the weather).

Same for the Pro2 Evo. I’ve posted about this before on here – Hope have changed the end cap to reduce drag and instead destroyed the sealing. After a wet weekend at Cwm Rheaedr & Brechfa the brand new, never-been-ridden, bearings I’d put in (after the previous ones died in 6 months) had had most of the grease washed out & were squeaking. The pawl area showed signs of significant ingress of water. For a hub designed to be used in the UK, this is frankly rubbish.

I now remove the cassette before cleaning it & remove the rear wheel from the bike before cleaning the frame to keep “avoidable” water away from the rear hub. At £40 a set for replacement bearings every 6 months I’ll be going with a different brand next time.

Yeah I am. Leaving work just after 5 & will be up there by 6pm. Ping me an email to sort details if you want? Address is in profile.

So by “Don’t look down”, you mean what’s now part of Yer Tiz? You used to hook off to the right to do some DH?

Yes. A new line has been built towards the end & hasn’t been around long. Before where you’d hook off right to do DH/link up to the top of Picnic Bench.

I still enjoy watching his run at Champery & always crack a smile at the whip.

Incredible skills on steep, technical stuff & in the wet, not sure about more pedally courses (what woulld’ve happened if he hadn’t crashed in SA?).

Watch “Hart & Soul” if you haven’t already. Part 2 was out the other day.

You’re going to need the funnel eventually in order to bleed the brakes. And don’t buy the shimano “bleed kit” as it’s a rip-off – 4mm hose, a large syringe & some mineral oil is all you’ll need.

And there’s a good chance you’ll need to trim the hoses regardless of where you buy them from.

he she sounds like an aggressive idiot

FTFY. A bat-crap insane woman at that, according to my wife, who was pushing her bike up the (possibly permissive) footpath before being grabbed & obstructed by her, whilst she ranted at her about using bright lights.

Unfortunately the large ES8.0 is still showing delivery in 8 weeks’ time 🙁

And July for the 853 Prince Albert.

The guy that ranted at us was early 40s tops, about 5’8″, light brown hair (it was a while ago, i could be wrong).

He was a very angry man; surely there’s more serious things to increase your chance of a coronary over.

Given the amount & weight of trees being put across the trails, I’d wager it’s not an old bloke doing it. We’ve been ranted at by a younger bloke with a springer for riding the set of trails that start near the beginning of Yer Tiz, crossing the footpaths a few times & can link up to eventually spit you out at the top of Rocky Horror (no idea if they have a name). I cleared quite a few blockages from there last night, including some where the pointy ends faced up the trail – very dangerous for anyone night riding.

They must be very bitter people. Not entirely sure what their issue is.

New FS for away rides set up as 2×10. HT relegated to local trails where I very rarely, if ever, use the granny in a 2×9 34t 11-32. So I’m about to go 1×10 on that, again with 34t up front and 11-36 out the back. A small weight saving, space for remote lockout on the bars, a bit quieter and less spaces to fill up with mud. Sounds like a good idea to me.

minging

+1

Crikey. Didn’t expect them to be around so early.

Had a couple of bites last year & now carry tick hooks in my camelbak. Also been wearing longer socks, but ski socks in summer isn’t going to work for a sweaty get like me.

Waiting for my black Prince Albert classic to turn up to do the same.

Hubs, headset & top cap, seat clamp, QR, BB & floating rotors is about the extent I’ll go to I reckon.

I’ve got a Monaco & it’s very nice.

Someone posted the Monza on the last one of these threads. That’s nice too.

You’re not following the instructions, or using the bleed funnel.

– Bleed from the caliper up into the bleed funnel, by pushing fluid up from the syringe attached to the caliper.
– Plug bleed funnel, close the nipple, remove syringe, DON’T TOUCH THE LEVER.
– Open nipple & allow contents of funnel to drain through the caliper into plastic bag, tapping the hose, caliper, lever as it goes. Top up funnel to ensure you’re not pulling air into the system & continue until no further bubbles appear from the caliper.
– Close nipple, plug funnel
– Pump lever. Bubbles will rise into the funnel. Continue pumping until no further bubbles rise into the funnel.
– Lever should feel rock-solid; not remotely spongey. Repeat steps above if it does.

This is the bit that isn’t in the instructions, but made a difference to the feel of mine:
– Remove bleed block, add pads & red pad spacer.
– Pump lever to move pistons to where they’ll be when on the bike.
– Bubbles should rise into funnel.
– Plug funnel & remove.

– Find Hope video about caliper centralisation. Following instructions to fit the caliper central to the disc & ensure you don’t have a dominant piston. I’ve found you’ll need to fiddle with the piston positions every couple of rides to keep them feeling firm.

It’s on the way up I think, where the stream is on your right. There’s 2 line choices; the easier one is over his right shoulder in the second picture.

So 12:15pm start I think

1.15pm gmt start according to Red Bull tv homepage.

I use a Stinger with my (soon to be replaced with 1×10) 2×9 set up & haven’t lost the chain since installing it, although this is on a HT.
The bearing doesn’t last long in a UK winter though.
Can’t comment on the Superstar as I’ve not used it.

For me that would be 21psi F & 24psi B. Think I will start at 25psi F and 28 B and see how it feels.

I’m the same weight as you & run 20psi front (2.35 UST HR on Stan’s Crest) and 22psi rear (2.1 UST advantage on Stan’s Arch) without any problems.

Are they doing any voucher codes at the moment? If so & anyone’s got a spare one, could you email it to me? Ta.

Whilst on the subject of Halfords advanced professional stuff, their 150 piece socket set is down to £100 from £200 today.

HR front & advantage rear here. Works really well for 90% of my riding, although none of it is in the Peaks. Change to advantage front & larsen TT rear when it’s really dry.

“3 day weekend” = 2 or 3 nights?

Protip – telling her to “just mtfu and get down it; it’s not that steep” will not be seen as encouragement & may lead to an argument.

All the cool kids use strava now.

You gain kashima forks & rp23, but lose Hope Hubs & brakes (for formula and elixir 5s respectively).

Just to throw a spanner in the works, but would using one of those xtr (or XT & SLX later in the year) “clutch” mechs negate the requirement for any chain device?

711 & 80mm on the HT. Would like to try a 70mm & 60mm stem to see how they feel but not got round to borrowing them from mates.

I’ve got a Nikon D40 & D200.

Whilst I’d love to be able to take the quality of photos I can get with the D200 & 17-55 f2.8 whilst I’m out riding, it weighs about 2.5kg & is too bulky.

So I go with the D40 (plastic body) and 18-55 kit lens, which fits nicely in the top of my camelbak mule & doesn’t weigh too much. And I wouldn’t be too gutted if I smashed it in a crash, whereas I’d be quite upset if the same were to happen to the D200.

Take up smoking? I hear it’s an appetite suppressant.

After having had my credit card rinsed in the CRC hacking issues, I prefer to use paypal wherever possible.

Edit – email thing would definitely put me off, regardless of system used.

Stinger may be sufficient – they’re meant for dual rings though aren’t they?

They’re designed to be used with a double (hence why I’ve got one for my 2×9 setup), but having spent several rides without dropping to the granny and without the chain jumping off the middle, I just wondered whether it would work with a single-ring setup.

Plenty of different options for the chainring then! (as expected from STW). This seems the best advice:

so looks and price is about all that you can base your choice on, really

My wife’s just bought a Black & Gold Five. It’s actually quite asthetically pleasing for a Five. She does need to ditch the big ring though.

STW clearly isn’t the best place to ask these questions. An IFA that specialises in IHT planning would be your best bet.

Why not Crests?

Definitely not lightweight, average on 15stone

black runs on the likes of Coed-y-brenin

In my, & 2 of my friends’, experience Crests are not a rim that will hold up to abuse. If you are fast & like to get wheels off the ground even slightly, stay away from Crests. We all dinged ours within 6 weeks of getting them. ~70kg riders.

I’m sure someone will be along shortly to tell me that its not the rim but that I (& both my friends) are just rubbish riders.

what size ring are you intending to use up front?

Ignore that, it makes no difference as you’re using a single ring up front. Max capacity the mech needs to take up is 36-11 = 24. I’m pretty sure the short mechs have a capacity of something like 30? You’d need to make sure you shorten your chain to optimum length though (round 36t at back & ring at front – not through mech – plus 2 links).

You happen across a group of riders in the woods. Which one is unlikely to be a STW member:

a. The guy on the single speed Titanium 29er?
b. The guy on the single speed fully-rigid 69er?
c. The guy on the geared 26er with jones bars & a fat bike front wheel?
d. The girl on the trek top fuel?

Didn’t know about the middle button thing, which is great when using a mouse, but no good on a laptop. And whilst holding ctrl down, or right click & “open in new tab” work, it would be easier if I didn’t have to.

I’ll regularly have 2 x hardtails on the back of a MX5. Never fails to get a few second glances at trail centres (probably “who’s the bellend with the MX5?”). No pics I’m afraid.
Least practical cyclist’s car ever. Roll on the summer when it’s due to get chopped in for a boring (but roomy) estate.

Forcing posted urls to open in a new tab when clicked.