Also check pedal threads & chainring bolts. I’ve had the same issue twice. Once was solved as per smiff’s method. The other was loose chainring bolts.

Buy from one of the German shops (Rose/Bikediscount etc), as they’re about 50% cheaper than uk bike shops, more than justifying the £7 postage.

Don’t use it on chest cam footage. Makes it look like you’re floating through the trees & not in a good way.

Nice vid though.

I usually do it in the opposite direction (turning to the right), as once you’ve got across the stream the trail goes slightly uphill, which is the difficult bit. I’ve made the mistake of getting out my saddle, spun my rear wheel & stalled on that bit more times than I care to remember. The trick is to go up the bank to the left immediately before the stream, which puts you on a straighter line for the stream crossing, making the bit after a little easier.

I’ve just done mine (M785s) for the same reason. 2 weeks in the Alps took it’s toll!

I drained all the oil & then did a bottom-up bleed (the stuff that came out in the funnel was still slightly dark), then replaced the oil in the funnel & did top-down. Probably belt-and-braces, but it’s nice a clear now & they feel rock-solid. Ready to boil it again with a week in Sierra Nevada.

Thanks for all the links so far. Most are missing the right adaptors & tubeless bits, so you need to factor another £50 on to the price (£16 QR15, £13 12mm, £21 tubeless kit), which makes them more expensive. None use the new Flow EX rims either.

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Dusty Trails[/url] by ronnie101[/url], on Flickr

it’s testament to the reliability of Crank Bros stuff that you know in advance when the warranty service guy is taking 2 weeks off and planning accordingly. lol.

Install STW app to Chrome. Use quote button.

Canyon Strive half the price of the Slash with v. similar spec. Worth a look?

+1 footflaps

You have got the right size oiler, haven’t you? They come in 5mm & 4mm & should be a pretty tight fit on the outer cable.

When you move the rubber seal out the way, you should be able to see the inner cable through the hole and then make sure you’re pushing the straw all the way in. As JT says, the only spray you should be getting is from the end of the cable.

Used a saris bones 2 on my wife’s MX5 with no major problems. Fine with hardtails but, depending on the rear suspension design, can be difficult to mount full sussers.

Maybe I’ll stick with the white forks then!

No problem at all to use the photo Mike. Let me know if you want a hi-res version & can’t get it off flickr & I’ll email it to you.

Or yelling “strava!”

Here’s mine. Needs black forks really & I’ve been looking to justify an upgrade to a bolt-thru front end…

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Prince Albert Classic[/url] by ronnie101[/url], on Flickr

A little vid of just some of the trails we rode in 2 weeks of riding in Les Arcs (with visits to La Rosiere and Tignes).

38km of vertical descending; cannot wait to get back.

Nope, no reason at all. In fact, I think that’s what I got with my hope/crest wheels from 18 bikes.

Another vote for the tesco finest Ham, mush & mascarpone.

bump for the evening crew…

Tech docs say the part number for the “pad axle” is Y8JZ05000, or Y8JZ98010 including the snap ring (threadlock is better).

Perhaps try your LBS to see if they could order it in?

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Top of the world[/url] by ronnie101[/url], on Flickr

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Zittieux Ridge[/url] by ronnie101[/url], on Flickr

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Dusty Trails[/url] by ronnie101[/url], on Flickr

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Les Grangettes[/url] by ~) Jen (~[/url], on Flickr

Nope; just got back from 2 weeks of dry & dusty Alps and a morning of wet & muddy misery, without chairlifts, didn’t really appeal.

Judging by the 10-day forecast, I’ll be putting the mud tyres back on or not riding for a while though.

Have you moved rotors from bike to bike too? No idea why, but I’ve always found that swapping brakes but not rotors often ends in screeching from shimano. Spraying water on the pads after running them for a while often sorts it for a bit, but I never found a long-term solution other than to change the pads.

We’re in Bourg at the moment. Paridiski pass is €80 a week, giving you lift access to all of Les Arcs and La Plagne. We’re a 5 min ride from the funicular, giving access to some excellent trails. You’ll either need a guide or a IGN map & a willingness to explore (we went for the latter and aren’t bored after 11 days; another new trail to try later today…). Plenty of steep & technical riding.

There’s a free bus to the La Rossiere lifts from Bourg (you have to pay for lifts, but there are 2 excellent trails that go from top to bottom 1200m descent). One marked on the trail map “sunset rock” and another from IGN exploring. Doing them again tomorrow morning as we enjoyed them so much.

Tignes is a 45 min drive away, where the lifts are free, but 50% of the trails were closed mon-fri when we went (the ones serviced by the Aeroski lift). Tarte a Lognan was like riding the best bits of uk trail centre descents back to back though & good fun if that’s your thing.

I run tubeless. It has never not worked, ever (18 months & counting). No burping, no sidewalls rolling, nothing. And that includes a fortnight of black & DH alps trails (Les Arcs, Tignes, La Rosierre). I do, however, use proper UST rims & tyres. No weight saving, just no flats and more grip. win/win imo.

Wallop’s husband here. T’is fine, we’ve managed it. Just had to hit it harder. She meant she’d tapped out the left damper rod rather than remove the left leg.

Right – judy butter on fox fork seals. Yes or no? I’ve only serviced rockshox before.

M780 shifter are compatible with the ispec mount covers, but not sure if the M596 levers are.

edit – yep they are

Make sure the calliper is centralised & you don’t have a dominant piston so that, with the screw all the way in, the bite point comes pretty soon into the lever stroke.

Then, by unscrewing the free stroke screw, you will find the lever will need to be pulled further for the pads to fully engage, with the motion earlier in the lever pull allowing you to apply more precise braking.

Works with both the 785s & 775s.

Anyone that says “nothing” is doing it wrong.

As it’s unscrewed it increases modulation, but it relies on the brakes being set up right in the first place. Take the lever off the bike & look underneath as you unscrew it & you’ll see how it works.

http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shimano-disc-brake-pads-a01s/aid:256793

I’ve got one; had it just over a month & really happy so far. Went for the ES8.0 which seemed the best value. It pedals up really well for a bike the wrong side of 30lbs & is awesome fun on the downs, taking anything I could throw it at in its stride.

I’m 5’11” & went for a large despite Canyon saying I needed a medium, after comparing reach & stack to a Remedy that fit perfectly & reading about them feeling “cramped”. The height is only just right (the reverb is inserted as far as possible & at full extension is perfect for pedalling), but the reach is perfect for me with a 50mm stem on.
However a mate who’s the same height as me tried it & found it too stretched, but needed to put the saddle up (obviously longer legs than me). He’s just ordered a medium.

Taking it to the Alps in 2 weeks. Expect it to be perfect!

All programs>Accessories>Snipping tool

Stans have recently stated on their website that they no longer recommend the use of any schwalbe tubeless ready tyres with their ztr rims due to inconsistent quality & the tyre potentially blowing off the rims.

That said, my fat alberts seated fine & have stayed seated on my sun ringles. Would put me off schwalbes going forward though, which is a shame as the Hans Dampf is getting lots of recommendations from friends.

Does the activity of “cycling (but not in a race)” not mean they cover you then?

My mate has just been diagnosed with Lymes disease. He works up in forestry near Inverness. Got to be very diligent people.

How did he find out, out of interest? Had the symptoms started to manifest themselves or just noticed the bullseye rash after being bitten.

17″ matt black here. 120mm Reba, Pro2 Evo/Crest & Arch, XT 1×10 & brakes, other Hope, Thomson, Renthal & Ritchey bits.

Had an email from Mike the other day saying delivery is on track for early July & could I pay the £100 balance shortly.

Are cracked pistons a common fault?

Rose have added a new sentence, IN CAPS LOCK, to the XT brakes page informing buyers that the pistons are ceramic & need to be handled with care. I guess they’ve had a lot of returns with cracked pistons.

Remember to be polite if you want to overtake shout “ont he left” or applicable, being a woman there is nothing more irritating then people huffing and puffing on your wheel and either squeezing past where it isn’t possible causing me to crash or getting annoyed! If I hear someone behind me if I can move out the way ASAP I will.

Be courtous and polite and you’ll find overtaking easily, be an arse and you will find it’a a lot more difficult!

Or alternatively yell “STRAVA!” & assume everyone knows what you’re on about.

As I see it, overtaking can only really be done:
-through the meadow (where the running start begins), along the gravel road, start/finish straight, along the field before BBL.
-the tarmac from the gatehouse, up the gravel climb & down to the monument
-down zigzags/up the fireroad climb
-up gravel climb to New Barn Wood
-the (very) short open section between lower & upper quarry

There are a few optional blue/red line choices where locals will know the fastest line & be able to overtake.

Tubeless by any chance

No-one ever seems to mention tubeless on “what tyre setup for the Alps” threads. Am I missing something here? Am I setting myself up for FAIL by going tubeless? Stans will surely seal it 😉