Haha, the power of singletrack. Cheers bud

I am trying to use loco myself having had good experience with Si before but getting a reply isn’t easy!

Sorry pal, too late as the refund is on its way and my place has been cancelled. How come you left it so late to enter?

Hello bud.
I have just emailed steve parr regarding switching my entry onto you.
I’m out injured so can’t race it. I have already been in contact and organised a refund a while ago but nothing has come through yet so i mailed again on the off chance i can help you out.
I will post again here if i hear back from him.

Cheers
Matt

Silver looks far better than the black or yellow in the flesh

Is the largest really only 18.5″?

They aren’t reversable but you can buy them to be handed different left/right from crc. Well you can’t buy them yet but you will be able to when they come in stock, mid september to madison. Crc are world wide so they stock for uk tradition and the rest of the world

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=67208

You just sound bitter tbh mate that you fell off, man up.

Try POC VPD stuff of the troylee t bone knee pads both great products. More expensive than 661 but in my experience the extra cost is due to them being far better quality, comfortable and durable

Sektors new or talas 36’s used

Ever wished you hadn’t started a thread?

That’s probably the best way to decide on front ring size.
I wouldn’t say i stomp per say. I would say though that i am pretty poweful rider. I never climb shortish climbs by shifting down a handful and spinning, i tend to sprint up them.
I guess it always depends on your riding you do as well.
If you are out doing all day epics then a smaller ring will be a good idea but if your more into 2-4 hour singletrack bashing then i stick with a bigger one.
Dirt also suggested using a superstar chain device to keep the cost down but i think the E13 is worth the extra £££

I’m a ‘Hero’ or i guess fitter rider than Stevede and ride a 36t ring up front with no trouble. I ride wales, scotland, alps, whatever with it. It works fine with a 11-36 cassette.
Don’t be put off of it if you are a fit rider. I tend to drop to 34t in the winter when things get wet and boggy.

If you are going single ring then you might as well go for a medium cage rear mech, lighter, less likely to be bashed on rocks etc. Slx don’t do a medium cage in 10spd so look at an xt, only £4 more expensive at crc currently too

Why not just mark you seatpost? That’s what i do on my bikes that don’t have dropper posts.
Do want you want, your money, doesn’t make logical sense though imo

It’s not a red herring at all.
‘Squatting’ on the bike in the position you think is where your saddle should be for the best pedal efficiancy and raising the post to only that level will be a pain in the arse and you will never get the saddle to the same position. You will probably soend more time faffing about trying to get this correct that it would take to just open your seat clamp and raise your saddle that way.

Why not look at a gravity dropper? They do shorter travel adjustable posts and generally always get good reviews

Read this. Same question 5 days ago.
http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/cwm-carn-1

I have a ‘disco black’ five and it looks mint.
I just brought the frame and then built it to the spec i wanted. When the black looks tired i want to get it rawed

Oh the envy!
I have no advice bud but you should be fine as from what i have heard from friends there is a heap of riding over there and the scene is really growing.
Good luck, i hope all goes well.

Flows are wider than the other rims stans make, that’s probably the reason for the different rim strip but i have run mine with the standard stans rim strip and it was fine and i have mates who do the same. I now run mine with two layers of the adhesive rim tape instead as i find it easier to get tyres to sit

No they come with a monarch as standard.

Yeah he has used the money issues line with me too. Used to pay his bills is what he said and then promised last week that he would repay me this week but has since ignored all correspondence. I hope for his sake we never meet. People like this ruin classifieds for many people as now i struggle to believe anyone.

I have the elbows and think they are brilliant. As soon as my troy lee’s fall to bits, i will be buying the poc vpd knees too. I would say worth it for sure based on how good the elbows are

Me too!

Awesome

Odd that as i am still waiting for my £358 back after getting tired of his excuses and lies for not posting the set of forks i brought from him. Luckily i refused to do paypal gift and so paypal are now dealing with my claim.
I wouldn’t go anywhere near anything to do with him again.
He won’t even respond to any of my emails or messages in the paypal resolution centre, beware!

I’m afraid not as i haven’t ever ridden with them.

If you are pretty fit a 36t is the best IMO. I have ridden in wales, scotland, alps and back home in England with nbo trouble. Especially as you have a 11-36 cassette. 34t is likely to leave you under geared when pointing down and in quick flowy singletrack.
I ride a five also for what its worth

I got my week out at the mega insured with snowcard for £62 and ended up tearing my quad and giving myself a double hematoma and they were really good to deal with and have sorted out all my incured expenses with no hassle at all

Trail rat, That’s interesting you find the dh race scene to be up its own arse and the Xc one to not be.
I agree with you that the dh scene is far too ‘Too cool for school’ and very fashionista driven but i would say the xc race scene is far more elitist and full of preening wannabes.
Both those opinions are from racing in both at the same time.
The best atmosphere and vibe i have got from an event are from the Gravity enduros which i find to be a lot of like – minded people out to go fast and have fun. Plus £60 for two days riding is far better value for money imo than a dh or xc race

I am a big fan of a minion on the front and would definitely recommend them for the alps.
I ran a front minion on both ends and really like that grip but for general trail riding find it a bit slow on the rear so use a maxxis ardent which is essentially a skinny minion. Ardents are great on the front too until it gets wet and greasy and they struggle

Scott sparks were 110mm in 2011 but for 2012 are going up to 120mm. They looks awesome and the 2011 spark 20 i rode for a few weeks was great fun. It climbed like an absolute wippet but it was in the singletrack that it really felt at home, it was like a 4x bike.
I did run it with a 65mm stem and 730mm bars as per all my bikes.
I am ordering a 2012 as soon as they become availiable
http://www.scott-sports.com/gb_en/spark2012/video

I don’t think it’s the way you wright it ‘flow’, i think its the fact that you keep writing such stupid and wrong statments.

I have never had any coaching from Jedi but i have considered it and after reading all the praise for him in this thread it has made me more likely to do it in the future.

I consider myself a pretty decent rider already. I race dh, xc, gravity enduro and pretty much anything else that involves a stop watch and wheels and i generally do pretty well in these events.
But there is nothing wrong with seeking help from someone with jedi’s knowledge and experience to improve even more.

I am going to go out on a limb and guess that you have never been on any coaching days and so your opinion on this subject is worthless so it’s for the good of all that you go and do some rad skids or general gnarly riding and read Mbuk, yes i imagine you are there target demographic, a proper douchebag

Get some spikes bud. I like wet screams personally

You know the mega was two weeks ago? Plenty of time to save and get in shape for that. Gravity enduros?

What type of riding are you doing? Dh, Am, xc?
For dh i would go for either Maxxis wetscreams or Maxxis swampthings.
Any other and i’d go for panracer trailrakers, supurb in proper mud

I had had mine for two weeks when that happened to mine unfortunately at Ae for the Gravity enduro. Within a couple of miles it was ‘soft’ for the first 50mm so i chucked it in the van and put my standard post back on. I sorted it by sending it back to pure racing and telling them taht i’m not interested in them fixing it (as i brought a reverb straight away) and that i just wanted my money back.
They were a nightmare and i wouldn’t deal with any of their products again as they dragged their heels and made every excuse but i let them know that i know my rights as a consumer and i wouldn’t be fobbed off and they eventually, nearly two months later refunded me and admitted the post was knackered.
I would send it back to them and make them sort it

The hope eternity posts are good but do come in a bit more expensive, £71

Bikelux in newbury.
I’m not sure how much experience they have with Formula brakes but they have been spot on with everything i have ever given them and i’m the kind of customer who won’t buy anything ordinary

Washing up liquid on the bead of the tyre.

It will if you run it on the bars.
I run mine like that

Go VERY careful pumping up the tyre to 60psi as Sharkymark mentions as the tyre will most likely blow off the rim. I have stans flows and if you take any notice of the recommended tyre width – pressure that is on a sticker on the rim, the hightest that is recommened is 40 psi and thats for a high volume tyre. I ruined 3 schwalbe tyres by going to just 40psi and them blowing off and ruining the bead