Try:
[list]Right click on desktop.
Select View.
Untick Align icons to grid
Untick Auto arrange icons[/list]

You could try a combination of the last two options to your liking. I reckon you’ll probably want to keep align to grid ticked as it’s probably the auto arrange option giving you grief.

One thing people are failing to mention is their diffuser lens. I got one and it does wonders for that concentrated spot you usually get from CREE lights. Really widens out the beam.

I’d go for the Nexus as there’s going to be less bloatware crap installed. HTC are notorious for preloading crap you don’t want, and it’s not necessarily removable either.

Also, the mini 2 isn’t actually all that mini compared to the normal one. When I saw it in the shop the other day it looked about 2cm shorter at most.

If you’re looking for longevity then I believe the 2011 socket is the one to go for, but it’s more costly than the 1155 option. 2011 is much better for multi-tasking as it supports more cores and memory channels.

My hardware knowledge is a bit out of date, atm, though, but I went for 2011 on this basis. When I got my mobo Intel X79 was the high end chipset, but this looks to be surpassed with X99 (socket 2011-v3).

As for socket 1155, it looks like that’s been superseded by 1150.

Just took another look. Was working off some (rather out) mental figures, but on CRC Hope is 4x XT.

The lack of maintenance makes Hope a tempting proposition. I can’t count the amount of times I’ve had to redo the cone lock nut because I could still feel some play after re-greasing.

The one thing that did bother me about the Hope QR hub is the lack of skewer, but as I’m currently running an XT that’s not an issue.

Great feeback guys, thanks.

nemesis – Member

(OT but what problems are you having with the HILO?A couple of things. It’s not very old, 2 months, so these things shouldn’t be appearing.

The major thing is: when fully raised raised, from fully lowered, there will be about 5mm of drop when sat on. This can be resolved by holding position, pulling lever, standing up, pulling lever, at which point it’s largely ok.

Other minor things: a ballache to set the pressure (must pull lever and pump simultaneously), doesn’t rise very fast, doesn’t raise fully if met with tiny amount of resistance (different from above, where it’s fully raised until sat on), stiff cable already (small but annoying as I lubed it), and probably something else I’m forgetting.

So for near £200 I’m not impressed…

I think, since the company legally owns the bike, they can just give it to you as a benefit. This benefit is taxable, however, and will be like adding an extra £250 (assming £1000 max spend and HMRC resale value of 25% at 1 year old) to your salary. Of course, the longer you wait, the lower the resale value and thus the tax paid.

This is not to be confused with the old system where you owned the bike after the repayment period.

If you can get your company to do this it works out a hell of a lot cheaper, and the company no longer has to worry about the bike.

I must point out that I’m not saying this as fact. This is what my research suggests, and the route I’ll attempt when my repayment period is up, but is in no means confirmed. Some of this information I got by talking to someone claiming to be an HMRC employee.

It so far looks like an unsubstantiated rumour.

Go to a local club and talk to them. They often have beginner kits for general club use.

For costs you’ll need to pay for club membership, GNAS membership (which is required for shooting in this country and includes insurance – may be included in club fees).

Equipment costs are dependent on what kind of bow you want. For recurve you are looking at £50/60 for a basic bow. Arrows are probably about £50 for a semi-decent set of 12, but this can vary a lot dependent on the material (I’d advise aluminium). Then you have other accessories like a bag, quiver, finger tab, sight, longrod, etc., etc. which are all optional (though you probably want the first two).

When you get in to it proper you’ll have a better idea of what you want to spend on kit.

My current setup is a compound bow (£800), Easton A/C/C arrows (£12 each), release aid (cheap £50 job), sight (£250), scope (£70), quiver (£30), bow case (£20), arrow box (£15), longrod (£20), arrow puller (£3), plus a few other bits.

Oh, and stay away from Armex kit if you value your life.

Carcomputer.co.uk have a reasonable selection.

Kick it and see how long it stays put. Kick it hard enough and it’ll go away without any effort from the cat.

Yesterday morn, my neighbour was standing at the gates with his dog (staffie, but a nice one)

All staffies are nice by default.

I like the look of that Rose bag.

1 question; how does the bike mount frame work with thru-axle/bolt-true/maxle?

I’ve got a 27.2 post and I’ve recently acquired an X-Fusion HILO.

They RRP for £200, but you can find them at just less than £170. When I got mine about a month ago stock was an issue to all the cheap places had a month and a half wait on orders from the supplier.

It’s been OK. Does the job. A little slow on the rise, though that’s not much of an issue.

Okay, I drive. I try to give space to my “cousins” that drive too and from work and appreciate it is a bit of a battle out there. But some motorists really are stupid and let the team down.

Last night, on the way out of town, hugely wide road, parking either side. I’m just moving along at speed, preparing to climb a hill, straight road, no erratic movements etc etc. Crazy man motorist pulls out in front of me to turn in the road even though the street wasn’t busy didn’t spot me, my trailer, or anything, and drives right in my path. Shot me a dirty look as if it’s my fault. No wonder many bike riders thing motorists are a bunch of (insert appropriate word here).

I’ve recently got one, too, and found the bolt head to be a bit shitty. Takes a bit of coaxing to get the key all the way in, and it’s very easy to round off if you don’t.

I was going to see if Tibolts[/url] had a decent replacement, but I’m afraid to remove it in case they do not.

Thanks for your input!

After hanger removal for comparison it looks like it’s BETD hanger no. 38 (Second entry on this page). Could I get a second opinion? Because it does look very similar to hanger 271.

I don’t suppose anyone knows which hanger the Ramin frame uses? I’d like to get something a little less ductile from Betd.

It’ll be for the orange framed beauty posted earlier.