They’re using the 2016 frames now. There appears to be a small difference in the internal routing outlets, assuming the 2015 pictures are accurate. There are 4 holes in the front, but only 3 out back. That puts a dampener on any 2×10 plans I had.

I got mine in grey. I’m not a fan of the raw look.

I can’t comment on your calves.

I didn’t see any difference between 2015/16 Tusker 2, but Tusker 1 seems to have gone Sram 1×11.

I got my build done with all Shimano XT.

They’ve just got stock back in for Tuskers. After a 2 month wait mine’s finally making its way to me.

When ordering my Tusker I had the option of Bluto or rigid. I went Bluto because it’ll make it less niche, I feel. My local riding is the Peak District, however, so your situation may not warrant it.

If I ever do anything to contaminate pads or discs I just take a blow torch to it and burn it off. Seems to do the trick. I advise against doing it indoors.

What travel is on that Bluto?

I ordered mine with the standard 80mm (only option). I’d be interested to hear how it handles a longer travel.

Decathlon do front ones in a range of colours for £2.50.
Black
Blue
Pink
Orange
White

The plastic is pretty sturdy.

+1 for Superstar organic. I had the aforementioned squealing with the stock pads. Superstar sintered were ok, but still a bit noisy. The organics have been quiet thus far.

Yeah, you want to be putting your search term in your pagination link, too. It makes for an ugly URL, but gets the job done.

You want something like this

$pageLink=”searchterm=”.$searchterm.”&pn=”.$pagenumber;

Edit: you could also use a GET form request, as this will allow users to link to a set of results.

Cheers for the PSA. Can anyone recommend me an electric power washer from ebay?

I’m currently waiting for one. 8 weeks on backlog at the time of purchase. Currently 4 weeks in to that. Bloody annoying as the day before it said there was a 3 week lead time. Oh well… Given the price point and the customisation options I’m not going to cancel; it’s almost exactly how I want it out the box.

I’m going to attempt to make it 2×10, since I want the range, but I’m not sure how it’ll work out. cheekyget, how much clearance do you get between the chain and tyre in the lowest gear?

Well the Zees I have are pretty ace. Better than XT, and don’t cost much more. I can only imagine the Saints being superior.

I guess a reason why you shouldn’t get Saints is because it’s probably not worth the extra ~£30 per end over Zee.

There’s some great stuff in this thread, super helpful, thanks guys.

O-ring looks like the first thing to try, if it’s not simply something loose like twohats suggests.

Get a bit sweaty; the sweat will conduct the current required for capacitive touch screens (as found on phones) very nicely.

Alternatively you could buy some conductive thread and convert any glove in about 5 mins.

Another vote for ODI Rouges. I also have Superstar silicone lockons and they’re nice and chunky, too.

Why is this even a question? Do it.

The cake is just there as a means of delivering the icing. Whether or not that’s your thing is up to you.

I had an issue with hosting my own email servers when I was with BT. Everything that went out from my IP was just dropped. If it’s reaching your hosting provider then I reckon it’s not a BT issue, it’s an issue with the hosting provider.

That’s my worry. I think corners would stop cats but not hedgehogs.

Funnily enough, I’ve got a half finished Raspberry Pi project designed for the purpose of spraying cats. But I started that before I moved here, and this place has far too many points of entry for a single sprayer.

I really like that idea, Simon, thanks! Suggestions on appropriate diameter welcome. I was thinking 100mm, but I really don’t know how wide hedgehogs can get.

MTB tyres are heavy enough without puncture protection layers. You can get anti-puncture strips to place between your tube and tyre.

If you run schrader valve tubes, you can remove the valve (unscrew with needle nose pliers) and squirt some sealant in.

You’re worried about going tubeless because of a failure, but you can always carry a tube with you and deal when you get home. I run tubeless and in the rare event of failure I just chuck a tube in.

Onzadog – I mentioned this to my riding party after going down there yesterday. First time I’ve seen it in the flesh and it’s an abomination. I reckon there are enough of us to rally and remove it.

But then, maybe I’m optimistic.

As MikeG says. You want to get yourself a BBS02 motor. Mid-drive motors, ones that stick on the BB, are superior to hub motors, ones that replace the hub, as they allow you do use your gears (with a hub motor gears only serve to get a comfortable cadence). As it can use your gears it’ll manage load a lot better. For a cargo bike, ignore any hub motor.

Fitting a BBS02 kit (I’ve done it, and will be doing it again this weekend) is pretty easy, but a bit of a faff with all the wires. The unit comes with chainrings in the 44/46/48T options, though I’ve found this depends on supplier.

One thing you should note: the BBS02 is NOT road legal. It can be limited, with some controller hacking, to be sort of road legal but it’s a bit pointless. There is an earlier model, the BBS01, which is road legal.

For reference, the law stands at: 25kph (15.5mph) speed limit with a 200W (250W for cargo bikes) power limit. The difference between British and EU law is the power rating; they allow 250W for all classes.

There are other mid-drive motor kits out there, which are also road legal, and they mostly come from the Chinese market. There’s a motor by “Bewo” which is also mid-drive and road legal (from what I’m aware).

However, it’s unlikely that anyone will be able to recognise an illegal motor as the power ratings are written in small writing on the bottom of the unit and can easily be removed.

One caveat with these Chinese motors is that they lack the superior torque sensor found in the likes of Bosch motors, but rely on a cadence sensor instead for the pedal assist.

Not so encouraging news. Just ordered a set and a half myself. Though I’d rather know about delays now than get annoyed about it later. I got an email yesterday stating their current lead time is 2-5 days.

Given what Suggsey has said, I guess it’s fair enough.

Just get some clear ones instead? I use some Bollé contour ones I found on Amazon for about £7.

Sleep in an armchair for a couple of weeks. Preferably longer, to mitigate the chances of rolling and snapping again before it’s properly strong enough.

I didn’t try it myself, but I hear a figure of 8 brace is good for getting it to heal it the correct place.

My usual method is to go at the crank with a mallet.

Well, it’s a bit more scientific than that; there’s boiling water and a brick involved, too!

I’ve had more failures on my proper tubeless rim with proper tubeless rim tape than I did with my inner tube ghetto setup. Both rims were the same internal width, running the same tyre with the same pressure. Ghetto has failed 0 times whereas proper has failed twice so far. I ran ghetto for longer than I’ve run proper.

I tried a CO2 inflater for the first time a couple of days ago. It got me back up tubeless with ease, so I’ll always be carrying it. I won’t ditch the pump, though.

I’ve used my SJ4000 as a dashcam. Need to get a window mount, the type with a generic video mount screw, but they’re cheap enough.

It has a car mode which makes it behave like a dashcam. It also comes with an open mounting case (excellent for recording your new Celine Dion cover) which has that generic video screw hole, hence the generic mount. Its small size also makes it easy to stash.

For what it’s worth, I’m dead on 6′ and the large is near perfect sizing for me. I’m a bit leggy, so if you’re a normal 6’1″ then I reckon a large may be slightly on the small side.

Since this topic has been revived; does anyone know the max rotor size this bike can take (front and rear)?

A quick Google search found this.

Up near Manchester is the Peak District, which is a must for anyone looking to experience UK MTB. Dunno about MTB hire resources; didn’t find anything in the limited search I did.

There’s a piece of software Minecraft Magic Launcher which does the job of sideloading mods rather nicely. Not sure if that link is the up-to-date version, I’ve not used it for a while, but some google-fu on your end will sort that.

Not sighed as it’s not the official petitions site[/url], so therefore is useless.

I’ve seen loads going in and around Manchester, which is where I’m now starting to look. But I’m on the C# side of things. There’s a fair amount of PHP, and PHP is super easy especially if you have C++ under your belt. You could probably find an entry job in PHP fairly easily, especially in the Manchester area.

This may not seem like helpful advice, but I started on PHP. It’s a very easy platform to start a programming career on.

For what it’s worth, my experience tells me that academic programming and real world programming are very different beasts, so if it’s your first taste of commercial programming you’ll probably want to go in at a low level what ever you do.

Apprenticeships are a way of attaining a vocational qualification on the job. If you want to go down that route you’ll need to set yourself up with the appropriate structure to provide an apprenticeship.

If you can’t offer the structure of an apprenticeship then minimum wage it is.

Do the world a favour, though, and don’t be another tosser offering up an apprenticeship with no valuable outcome just because you want cheap labour.

Spring washer? Nylock nut with matching thread?

I had to reinforce mine with washers after a year of fairly frequent use. Given the price it’s done the job very nicely.

I got a Leagoo Lead 1 off Amazon for about £80. Does the job, a bit unstable at times but I have rooted it. It’s a random Chineese maker so one has to wonder about the data security. I mainly got it as a stop-gap as my old phone was rather dated and struggling to keep up, but it’s done surprisingly well.

I just drilled a hole in a suitable sized piece of wood and placed it in mine.