I did this guided tour. It was ace. 30k and 1230m climbing. The descents are excellent and there is hardly any road. Took me just shy of 4.5 hours total.

Check any fuses in the car for corrosion. I had a similar issue with things not working at random with a car I had sat for a while. The issue was the fuses that were attached to the positive battery terminal had corroded.

Unfortunately this is usually a proprietary part, but I got around it by completely removing it and replacing it with fuse holders. This may not work for you.

I’ve got a fatty with a Bluto at 80mm on. On a trail centre it’s pretty unnecessary, but out in the Peak District it certainly serves a purpose.

I drive a 1.5 diesel Clio. I really like the car. I like the interior, too, but I have the Dynamiq S model so It might be more “premium”. I do 1.5K to 1.6K a month.

The seats are pretty good. The car is fairly spacious for the driver for a small car (I’m pretty big and don’t have the seat all the way back). Boot is a decent size. I’ve got roof bars on it no problem, if that’s a factor for you.

He’s not stomping off because he lost to kids. He’s leaving to regain composure because he’s upset about losing a critical match due to his team wanting to try out an untested configuration.

This guy has been at it for 18 years. Finally comes close to getting a win, then that’s taken away because his team decided to try the new weapon for the first time. If you watched the episode you can hear him, though quietly, make a quip about his stance on the weapon choice before he makes his exit. I reckon his team thought they had an easy win and got cocky.

I’ve done it. It works fine.

I did a tour last September for 2 weeks and kept my phone alive with the catchily named B+M Lumotec IQ2 Luxos U, running off my dynamo hub. Basically pedal powered USB charging.

When using the phone for navigation there was some augmentation required with the use of a battery pack. If I was to tour again, and I fully intend to, I would look at getting one or two of the battery packs with a solar panel on so I could be more liberal with power use.

Got me a Tusker from ze Germans. Here it is new:

Slightly less new on the Scottish coast:

3 Shire Heads in the snow:

3 Shire heads in the dry:

My FS bike doesn’t get used anymore.

I use 2 apps in conjunction with each other; OruxMaps and Brouter[/url].

It’s a bit tricky to set up, but it’s worth it as you get decent off-line routing designed for bikes.

Brouter isn’t mapping software on its own, but rather a routing provider (which OruxMaps can use). Have a play on the web interface[/url] to see what you make of the routing algorithm. If you like it then download the app.

Orux is pretty powerful but has a steep learning curve. It can have completely off-line map rendering, including reading Garmin map image files. That, combined with Brouter, means you can use it as a satnav where you don’t have mobile internet, such as the middle of nowhere or other countries.

A Google search will tell you how to get these things running, should you have difficulty.

Of course, you don’t need Brouter. Orux will also deal with GPX files.

I’ll be in the red Clio with a fatty on the roof. Come to me if you want flapjack. I’ll have a little stash with me on the trail, but I’ll have about 13kg of flapjack in the car so come pre-ride for your own.

Car boot size.

I intend to be there. I will be bringing a boot-full of flapjack. Should be more than enough for everyone.

Seen these pop up before, interested in attending.

I work there. It’s not exactly the most well off place in the world. There’s some nice bits dotted about the place, but not somewhere I’d like to live for fear of being burgled. Cars have been broken in to at work and, most recently, wheels taken. Depends how arsed you are about such things.

Decathlon actually do a “SPD compatible” set for £7.

http://www.kapz.com/

The first result from Google for custom top cap.

I’ve used them before and they’re what you’d expect.

I slapped a motor on my old Rockhopper. Makes for a great town machine.

Passed a bunch of 20 odd OAP walkers going the other way. The way they all started to murmur things like “look at those tyres” as I went past was quite amusing to me.

I gotta admit, I do enjoy watching people gawk at it.

When a spoke ripped out the hub flange I got in touch and was basically told that, since it was second hand, to go and source a replacement shell myself.

I have one. It was quite loose in my 5mm ID pvc hose, so it could be 5mm but it might be 4. I’ll measure when I get home.

I’ve always bought from Rose Bikes using good old real money. Is GBP not an option for you?

InnerTubeShop.com[/url]

Had SLX and am currently running Zee and XT. I’d agree with the above.

I’d also go so far as to say; if you’re thinking of XTs then go for the Zees. They’re not much more when purchased from Germany and worth the extra.

Are you on about sex bolts?

I had the same problem. Turned out that the oil from the damper had been ejected in to the lower leg.

Does the compression adjustment work? If not then, combined with the lack of rebound adjustment, it’s likely your damper doesn’t have oil.

How much oil came out of the drive side lower? If it was more than the recommended 5ml then it’s likely the oil has been ejected from the damper.

This is a known issue and service with the 2016 seal set fixes this.

Yes. Generally speaking, software is required to be built in 32 or 64 bit. Most software is still built in 32bit because, while a 64bit CPU and OS is compatible with 32bit, a 32bit CPU and OS are incompatible with 64bit and there is still a significant portion of 32bit stuff out there.

I’ll be because it’s a 32bit application. 32bit only allows to address up to 4gb.

Bottle of sealant, valves, and Tesa 4289 strapping tape. The Tesa tape is basically the same stuff as the tubeless tape.

I’ve recently done a screen replacement for my own Z3 compact. Most fragile screen ever. You can get aftermarket screens for about £30. It’s not too hard if you fancy your chances.

I used an OTG cable and USB mouse to use it in the mean time.

Those big black 40’s are gusts. The actual wind will still be below 30.

I got the Rose Tusker. The build totalled £1453 for the base bike plus the following upgrades:
[list][*]XT brakes, with IceTech discs.[/*]
[*]XT mech and shifter[/*]
[*]Reverb Stealth[/*]
[*]Bluto[/*][/list]

With P&P it comes to about £1500

The rims have given me the most grief of anything I’ve tried to tubeless, but I’ve done it by using some thick closed cell foam with an adhesive backing to create a channel for the tyre bead to sit in.

I reckon the extra height of the platform will make you want to raise your saddle.

My cherry blossom tree has got confused and bloomed. The birds are also very vocal.

I hope we do get a cold spell that brings lots of snow. I need some opportunity to feel smug on the fatbike.

Nothing’s wrong with them, I just find that in the mud they float a little too much. The tread is deeper and has wider spacing on the Floater and Bud than the H-Billie. Having the deeper, wider, tread has really helped. The Bud also appears to have a stickier compound, which is nice.

When summer comes around I’ll probably put the H-Billie back on.

Here’s mine, day of delivery:

It’s now got reflective rim tape and better tyres for the wet; OO Floater rear and Surly Bud front. Front is tubeless, rear pending.

It will get a front mech. The 1×10 is doable, but I prefer the range from 2×10.

I started off with the X-Fusion one. I used it for about 2 months and swapped it for the RSP one.

The X-fusion one quickly developed lateral and vertical play. The lever was also a bit pants. The requirements for servicing were ridiculous; you needed like 50 tools.

The RSP has been great so far. It comes with a little play, but it hasn’t changed in my use. It’s far sturdier than the X-Fusion and on par with my Reverb on my other bikes. The mechanical nature of it makes it super simple to service, too; you can disassemble it without tools.

I actually asked someone who admitted to this what their reasoning was. They said they didn’t know that it pissed people off and the reason behind it was that everyone else does it. He thought that the lanes were actually slow, medium, and fast lanes.

Not that a simple read of the highway code would educate that the lanes are overtaking lanes only and that you should keep left unless overtaking…

Of course, what constitutes overtaking distance? Personally anyone more than 10 seconds away doesn’t warrant moving to overtake.

I’ve gone and put a BBS02 on my old Rockhopper.

I chose a mid-drive kit because it allows me to use my gears. This is crucial as I live somewhere fairly hilly.

I chose the BBS02 because it offers a fairly easy installation and offers 750W. It’s also reasonably cheap; I got the motor and battery for £680. The unit is capable of 25-30mph depending on whether you’re pedalling with it or not. Its torque profile is similar to that of a transit van in that you get a lot of low speed torque, so it works well at pulling heavy loads. Combined with gears you can get up anything at a fair pace.

The primary drawback of this unit is the pedal assist works on a cadence sensor instead of torque sensor, so under pedal assist it’s either going or not. If you’re using the throttle then this doesn’t really matter. The throttle has a fairly sizeable dead-zone, making it somewhat sensitive.

I get about 20 miles out of a single charge of a 10.1Ah battery. Obviously net assent results in a lower mileage and net descent results in higher. I do usually utilise the motor at about half power, which is more than enough in most cases.

Please be aware that anything over 250W and not limited to 25kph is not road legal.

They had a stall in the Macclesfield treacle market, that I just happened to find. I had a go on one and they were quite nice. Very heavy. It was also a bit surreal turning the bars, but watching the basket stay put when turning.

I was tempted, but couldn’t justify it. I’d never have used it, and I don’t really have the room.

On-one floaters are a good price. £40 a tyre (£30 in brown or white)

I’ve not used them myself, but I hear they’re fairly good at mud.