Very squared off apparently, especially if your rims are 30mm, not great in the wet, maybe worth a punt if you’re running 25mm rims.

Had this problem with my mates bike, started with a dremel then hacksaw to finish off and make the slot straighter then a flat head bit in a mini wrench removed it, factory torqued up, so initially hard to undo.
Shimano hardware is crap and can be prone to rust, it’s a pity Hope’s hardware doesnt fit.

Just looked at the fuel/ oil slick version at leisure lakes, it’s nice but not £100 nice, the nose is a bit like a killer whale’s mouth cos theres a weird gap between the cover and the plastic base. Think I’ll stick with my Fabric saddles.

Unite renegade looks nice, the entire stem including faceplate is machined from the same piece of alloy, which is a nice touch. I have stems that don’t seem to match up perfectly with the faceplate, it’s like they were machined and anodised in different batches so props to Unite for their method.
Nukeproof horizon is a lovely bit of kit too.

Would an old bolt thru type adapter bolted on to the undamaged thread help line up the bit and keep it straighter well drilling.
Also threadlock on caliper bolt might undo the helicoil, I always use grease torqued up correctly and never had a caliper bolt come loose.

As above, enduro is the latest and improved version of the horizons, my only reservation is the height, but maybe that helps make them last, everyone seems to rate them highly.
I personally wouldn’t buy plastic pedals, it just doesn’t appeal to me.

I’ve narrowed down my next purchase to Nukeproofs latest horizons or Unite instinct.
Burgtec are still too close to the crank arm, maybe MK6 version is when they get it right.

If the top of the caliper is not perfectly flat then conical washers above the caliper will help but you might need slighgly longer bolts, also Clark’s adapters aren’t great, there can be gaps when the caliper rests on the adapter, CNC’d ones are more precise.
The paint on the caliper is probably uneven so a bit of a sand down with fine wet n dry could help.
What you’re describing sound like theres a slight slope on the caliper so conical washers under the bolt head seem the best option.

DMR sect or new 25 year anniversary grip.
Oury V2, hard to get though.

Agree with DezB, it’s just not an ARC.
Removing the most distinctive feature of the Yeti ARC is hardly a fitting tribute to celebrate 35 years, it’s almost as annoying as what the GT zaskar has turned into, yet another iconic frame that’s betrayed its roots.

I always used to insist on running bars with 8° 4° sticking to what I was used to, protaper then raceface but since trying nukeproofs with 9° 5° I now prefer them, maybe I’ve changed or its modern geometry thats played a part.

DT swiss are confusing, how do you know what rims are on the wheelset, if you need to replace a rim will your wheels still match or do you need to re sticker them.

Since switching to 165mm there has been zero cons, it’s all pros so I’ll always buy 165mm from now on.
Poah, its 5mm difference.

I wanted that bike for a birthday treat for myself, now they’re out of stock everywhere 🤬.
Absolutely love that colour, hopefully 2021 model will be even nicer.

Dark blue grips like the burgtec minnaar ones and blue pedals if you have to add colour or plain old black.

Slight hijack but has anyone 3d printed a dummy headset bearing but with 16mm hole instead of 30 or 40mm ID to use as centering guides when pressing headset cups with big washer threaded rod type presses.
Could be a nice little earner.

The slackest bikes out there with triple clamps are around the 46 mark for offset, just seems odd to choose an offset from the extreme end rather than say 42, how many people given a choice would opt for 38, they should have gone the Fox route with a few options, surely we deserve a choice when handing over £900+.

I use parcelforce through my local post office, used several times with no probs, just use a proper frame box and protect the frame well, I always keep original box and packaging, every frame I’ve ordered from CRC has come by parcelforce.

I can’t help but question the 38mm offset like it or lump it option in 27.5, and only 2% stiffer fore aft. The bolt on fender was long overdue, so that’s a nice touch, but fancy introducing an exciting new fork with the dullest colour known to man (or woman, equality and all that) come on rockshox where’s the colourful wow factor compared to Fox’s 38, at least they’ve kept the price under a grand though and I do like that the hose mount seems a bit more friendlier to the right hand front brakers.

Just that dull horrible grey and gloss black

Kind of agree with nicko74, the ability to pedal at a decent speed towards a climb then drop into a granny ring at the last second, instant climbing gear without making your chain climb up several cogs at the back, also the angle of the chain line at each end of the cassette is far from ideal.

My brother has an old bike with black hope m4 brakes with the gold caps, hardly ridden and collecting dust, brakes haven’t been bleed since 2013 but still work, the seals at the lever definitely need replacing soon as they’re looking dry n crusty, God knows how the piston seals are still doing their job.
The fluid will probably be black so new seals and complete flush through with be my next job.

I’ve sent several wheelsets with parcelforce without incident, proper wheel boxes with the cardboard sleeves to keep them steady, extra layer of cardboard taped inside the boxes were the hubs endcaps are, scrunched up newspaper for padding, tape two boxes together for the same price as sending one box.

I have the oneup bash with the upper guide which hasn’t got a mark on it so probably don’t need. The bash plate took one hell of a whack recently, I looked down expecting the worst but it was still straight, I think the thicker plastic guard handles impact better and helps it slide over stuff, plus I’ve got a spare plate.
I like the look of the unite one though I don’t think it would’ve come out unscathed from my last impact.

Only thing I can think of is a short piece of threaded rod fully threaded in from the driveside and whacking it with a hammer, but if you’ve already tried that I’m stumped.
I had a similar issue with an old Kona, turned out the main pivot was welded up misaligned and simply undoing the other pivots first freed it up.

He’s got another pair for only £99, bargain.😄

I’d try Penetrating oil left for a while, then heatgun on the frame, releasing/freezing spray on the post.

GARLIC BREAD ?

Bike industry’s inability to make rim and tyres that work together without a lot of swearing and risk of a hernia, I haven’t got a prayer of fixing a trailside puncture without damaging something. Never had a 26″ tyre I couldn’t fit n remove bare handed.

Dropping from 35 psi to 18-20 psi might not feel right for you, try 27 psi first, weight the front more and maybe just get a more aggressive tyre for the front, also the long low n slack trend can go a little too far for some peoples ride style, especially if you’re dipping your toe back into biking after a decade out, bigger isn’t always better and takes a little bit of adaptation.

Winstanleys is my LBS, I’ve been a customer for years without issue, they never let me down pre covid19 but the pandemic has really f#cked them up, hopefully they’ll pull through and get back to normal soon.
I order most of my Hope stuff from them, usually its just a couple of days delay if not actually in stock, their operation is similar to merlin, ie just one unit on an trading estate so not a big workforce like CRC.
It would be a real shame if they went under.

Shouldn’t require a full bleed if you’re not flapping about, if you’ve got all the tools within reach and not dripped any fluid or very little just attach funnel with a bit of oil and give the lever a few pulls, with the blocks in to stop pistons creeping out of course.

Wow, that’ll teach em to mess with you, danny boy.

When you’re gone, you stay gone or you be gone.

Why did rockshox change to 0w30 just for the sake of 10ml to lube the lowers, you can pick up a litre of Castrol magnetec 0w30 from Tesco’s for a £10, saves tracking down a specific brand and waiting for it to arrive, although I just usually squirt the rock oil I’ve already got in every bloody weight in there.

I also recommend a preset torquekey, saves faffing about with a torque wrench, most of which are 2nm to 15/24nm or 3nm to 15nm, so 5nm is firmly in the low settings, my xtools one cant tell the difference between 4nm and 5nm, so it’s a bit crap.
Molgrips must have a 1nm to 9nm one 😀

I’ve made my own with aluminium box section, an old shimano threaded axle n cones and an old depth gauge off a drill that broke, works a treat.

Sexually inadequate?, classic transference, you got issues t.i.n.a.s
I was joshing hence the smiley face. Chill.

Sram shifters have had a self destruct mode for years, considering the top end prices compared to XT & XTR shifters it’s just embarrassing.

Check the bar with digital vernier caliper, centre bulge might be slightly ovalised, surprising how many bars aren’t perfectly round. My Hope stem left slight clamp mark’s on my carbon protapers, you could see were the faceplate had been on the bars, don’t think the actual carbon was damaged, just the paint but I went back to alloy bars.