They sound a bit pants for an LBS. mine charged £5 for the same and did a proper job even facing both the head tube top and bottom and the crown.

I now do it myself with a hammer and block of wood, and use Hope split crown races.

Its better in the morning, that way on the ride down people walking up are facing you and tend to move out of the way. In the evening people are walking down.

I hated it the first time i went because it is very pedally, i think it requires a higher fitness level to enjoy.

The second time i went i enjoyed it much more being fitter. Some bits i still hate, namely the rocky slow uphill bits, but there are plenty of bits i like especially the new bits.

I say ignore every single comment you have read and go and find out for yourself.

I wouldn’t plan on more than half a day though.
I can spend longer at Lee Quarry its great for sessioning.

Just got the Nomad, i ride everything on it and never feel the need for another bike.

Only really changed to 2×9, swapped my Marz 66 RC3 180mm to Lyrik RC2DH 170mm, Fox RP23 to CCDB Air, and changed from some 680mm alu bars to 720 carbon havens.

Next planned change is 11 speed.

Rab Myriad, best jacket i have ever owned, i sweat a lot and i stay dry in this.

I will just put it up again, incase you missed it. :wink:

Its at the top of the fire road climb on the right.

When you climb the steep fire-road its on the right at the top.
Hope line is seperate it takes you back to the bottom of the road climb.

Hully Gully are black parts off the red route.

Im thinking the same and plan on trying Ardents next.

I see no reason they cant be left compressed. Mine is often left for days.

Gisburn wouldnt be much fun, The slab and Hope Line would be very dull.

I used to hate the idea, but i now just use a hammer and lump of wood on my Nomad.

2X9 here as well 22 and 32 front and 11-34 back and a clutch mech.

My air shock is mounted like so. On the CCDB Air the can end is far lighter than the damper end, but its fitted purely this way round so it fits.

Per side.
I plan on using standard 25mm bearings and a 1mm spacer.

I ran 66 ATA 180mm on mine for ages, they were fine. Only recently changed to 170mm Lyriks for the lighter weight.

At our place we were given the old smoking room to store our bikes, its great because it has extractor fans that make it great for drying your clothes off. Its probably the most secure building for miles as well.

Sand the pads down till they fit.

Where did you park? I always struggle to find places that are suitable for 24 hour or longer parking.

Why anyone would choose to do that over using worms i dont know.

When i had a nail in my tyre the routine went like this.

Prepare worm by threading through the tool and applying glue.
Pull nail out and stick tool and worm in the hole.
Pull tool out.
Cut excess worm off.
Top up air in tyre and ride.

No need to remove tyre, no cleaning needed, no issue with re-seating tubeless tyre. Its just a million times easier and literally takes seconds to do.

I use the worms also, buy that kit posted above then get the worms off ebay for about £5 for 20, each one can be cut in half.

Its great being able to repair without even deflating the tyre.

Took me exactly 2 hours to get up the Llanberis path, and about 30 minutes down.

I doubt it otherwise those of us using a Shimano 10 speed for the clutch with our 9 speed SRAM shifters would have chosen a SRAM mech if they were even slightly similar.

Yes, I ride it solo, as well as 99% of riding I do. Stick to the Llanberis path and your never alone.

Some mates, i wouldn’t take any of mine on something i knew they couldn’t handle.

It is Wilderswood i’m talking about.

Go back along that road past the pigeon tower and past the dog kenels, there are a couple of good ones down on the right.

Just my Nomad, does everything.

Worms are best. dont even need to take the tyre off to fix, i have a few in my Hans Dampf where i had a nail stuck through.

Dab of copper grease on the threads of mine, without then can be a pain to remove as they just rotate.

It was a ISG5.

I had a Stinger and SLX double, no spacing required, worked well. But got rid as it just isnt needed.

I carry some tiny pliers, good enough for removing the security wire on my brake pads and pulling cable through.

I use CV grease for bearings, and copper grease for anti-seize applications. Each are about £5 for 500g and will last a lifetime on a MTB.
I dont buy into all this over priced MTB specific stuff.

I only have my Nomad for everything.

I’m running a medium SLX Shadow+ with 2×9 setup and no noise what so ever on mine.

Petrol.

Any sample images guys?

RX100 samples.
http://www.flickr.com/groups/rx100/pool/

99% of the time its the camera i reach for even over my dslr, its just easy to take everywhere but produces stunning images.

Let all the air out, then remove the o-ring at the top, then the air-can slides off.

Sony RX100, best quality in a point and shoot form factor.