Option 1 if it was described as 60.5cm c-t, the c-t is centre to top (of the seat tube). The other possibility would be c-c which is centre to centre, i.e centre of BB to centre of top tube, measuring along the centreline of the seat tube.

I’d be surprised if you can’t spot a tiny difference if you really look at the heads of the pins and the holes in the side plates. When the chain is riveted together the ends of the pins are spread out slightly over the edges in the holes in the plates, once it’s been apart and had the same pin pressed back in the holes in the plates will be a tiny bit stretched and the edges on the spread out end of the pin slightly taken off so you’ll probably be able to spot one pin where you can see the extra deformation in the plate around the holes. You might be able to see the edges of the holes in the plates on that one but not on the others.
No guarantees, but worth a very careful look.

Not that then!
Apologies, misread the OP. Tight plus two links should be plenty for the chain on a single ring hardtail. Next most likely is the joining of the chain itself.

Just because a click sounds like it’s coming from the back end, doesn’t mean it is…..

+1
A click that sounds like it comes from the rear end in time with your pedalling can turn out to come from the bars or stem. Probably not in this case, but definately don’t rule out the BB, cranks or pedals just because it sounds like it’s coming from further back.

Assuming your bike is like every other full suspension design I’ve encountered and the chain needs to get longer as the suspension compresses, set the chain length by unbolting the shock at one end and fully compressing the suspension and then set the chain length on the big sprocket as tight plus 2 or 3 links.
You’ll be suprised how much extra chain the suspension needs, it’ll be that that’s killing the chain I’ll bet.

For what it’s worth, if you are intending to use the bike for descending biased riding it will probably feel best if you set the sag stood up with all your weight on the pedals, the way it’ll be when you wanting the suspension to work best. That’ll need a bit less pressure.

As everyone has said, they should be solid and powerful. I can remember being delighted at how easily the front brake would lift the rear wheel and how easy it was to control it when I got mine. Check the slignment of the caliper and that the pads and discs are clean and properly bedded in while you are getting them looked at.

Sounds like user error to me…

Not perfect driving from my wife in as much as it would have been possible to make the manouver without that happening but it’s the sort of manouver many, many normal drivers end up having to make and it wasn’t terrible driving by any stretch. The truck driver stopped to apologise and help, to put it into context. It certainly wasn’t all my wife’s fault.
Very few people would catch such a big slide the very first time they had it happen to them. I was lucky enough to spin harmlessly a few times in my foolish youth on quiet roads and car parks and am now reasonably handy at catching these kind of slides but it took a good bit of practise and I still wouldn’t have given myself more than 50/50 I’d have held onto the back end that day.

Hmm, maybe 12 deg C and a slightly damp surface. It feels fine at this time of year and it feels fine on summer tyres when it’s warm. I think the flexible design of the tread and soft rubber just allows the tread blocks all to shuffle and the whole thing just takes on a massive slip angle. It was a proper tank slapper too at about 60, swung to about 45 degrees each way across both lanes (no other cars around fortunately) before going all the way round and off backwards to the right. Ended up hitting the barrier fairly gently and we were able to drive it out and stop in a lay-by to swap out a bent wheel (from mounting the kerb sideways / backwards at the end) before finishing our journey. Wouldn’t like to do it again, that’s for sure.

All tyres should be like winter tyres all year round but they would wear out too fast so standard tyres are a compromise between grip and durability.

I don’t entirely agree with that, my experience of winter tyres in warmer weather is that they are too flexible and the car becomes unstable in emergency lane change manouvers that wouldn’t unsettle it on summer tyres.
My wife had a crash on the dual carrige way when a truck pulled out of a lay-by without spotting her and she had to emergency brake and change lanes to miss it. The car went into momentum oversteer and after 2 or 3 good attempts to catch it she finally lost it and we parked rear first into the central barrier (I was in the passenger seat). Nothing serious in the end, no-one hurt and didn’t hit any other cars but it was a pretty big one and could have been properly messy. This was as the weather was begining to warm up again in the spring and the car was still on winter tyres. I’ve driven the car (a Forester) on the winters and on normal tyres and that instability is only there on winter tyres in warmer weather. I’ve noted the same thing with both of my last two cars, as the weather warms up they start to feel nasty on winter tyres in a way that they didn’t in the cold weather. It’s how I know it’s time to swap the tyres on my car (a BM 530d FWIW), it starts to want to swap ends very easily on the summers as it gets cold and then again on the winers as it gets warm.
Obviously your experiences may vary dependent on the cars and tyres concerned.

Typically rated for 112 mph, so you should be fine. In the warmer weather compared to normal summer tyres, they feel a little more vague, are a little less grippy and wear a bit quicker, but it’s a better idea than running summer tyres in the winter.

Normal 31.8 Havoc Carbons here. Love them. Might be a better option than the 35mm ones.

Use a 12″ long adjustable spanner on the lockring tool and make sure the lockring tool is well held in by QR. Set the chain whip directly opposite spanner. Put some gloves on, stand leaning over the wheel so you can push down on the tools to undo, lift the wheel in the air with the tools and then punch it straight back down onto the ground as hard as you can, leaning on the ends of the tools. Repeat as necessary.

Skinny slicks pumped up proper hard and full mudguards are essentials for a commuting bike. I defy anyone who says that a suspension fork makes an MTB slower, all else being equal, to prove that with a stopwatch, so don’t worry too much about that, it’s more wheel size, weight and position that make road bikes faster than the lack of a little springing in the forks.
Comfort wise, there’s a bit of simply hardening up and getting used to it but also worth noting that my OH was never truly comfy on her bike until we stopped mucking about with big wide padded saddles and got her a much narrower, firmer, but still female specific one, WTB Deva in her case. It’ll likely be counterintuitive for her but something more like you’d pick for yourself but in a female version will likely be best once shes used to the regular riding. After all, you need to have your weight on your sit bones, not your soft tissues, that’s the same for everyone, and women’s sit bones aren’t all that much further apart than men’s, a couple of cm at most. There’s no reason they should need massive wide saddles, and indeed they are often worse than firmer ones after a few minutes as you sink in and end up putting pressure on areas that you shouldn’t be.

Shadow type mechs? You’ll need a long cage unless you are only running one front ring. Any shorter and it won’t cope with the chain growth on a Five or Heckler.
Be completely sure about the chain, if it’s even a little too short it’ll eventually lead to an unexpected mech hanger failure, probably but not certainly on a big compression or landing, or else when it takes a much smaller impact than you’d think it’d take to break it…

If you are snapping them off by hitting things changing bikes isn’t going to fix it, a hanger strong enough to stand up to that will just mean you snap the mech at the top knuckle with identical results, plus I’m not at all sure the Santa Cruz hanger is any stronger at all, after all, the point of a replaceable hanger is that it snaps off before the mech is damaged.
Maybe you could get a lower profile mech that was more tucked in. What mechs have you been running?
Edit: Also, to be sure, when you set your chain length, do you do it with all the air out of your shock and the suspension fully compressed?

Fair enough, if you’d feel more comfortable on a Heckler, go for it. Suspension wise it’ll feel very similar to the Five. My old school one climbed fine on an old coil sprung Fox Vanilla, so I wouldn’t worry too much.
The ex-bike-mechanic part of me can’t help suggesting that the only reasons the hanger can be breaking is that you are smacking the mechs on something or running the chain way too short and that neither of those are specific to a particular model of frame.

Hmm, much as I’d have a Heckler over a Five any day purely on the basis of looks, I’m really strugling to see the connection between the first paragraph and the rest of your post.

learn how to properly repair the holes with a puncture repair kit

1) find holes
2) clean tube
3) quick rub with sandpaper
4) apply glue
5) spread glue with finger, nice and thin layer
6) leave to cure for at least 5 minutes
7) apply patch and hold it there for a minute

Pump up gently and check you haven’t missed all the holes.

+1
The biggest potential pit falls are not leaving the glue long enough to dry (when it gets to seeming far too dry to possibly work, it’s perfect) and missing a hole. A full on snake bit may have 4 seperate holes.

I seriously doubt it. As above, I’m a fussy bugger about bike set up and I’ve never noticed the play when I was riding the bike. Same goes for a Joplin that preceded the Reverb. It’s only noticable when you are off the bike.

+1 for wait for the pops. I run my tubless tyres at around 25 but they all get pumped up to around 70-80 psi when fitted and left until the beads have popped into place fully on both sides and it’s settled and straight, then they are let down to what I actually want to run them at and stay in place fine without burping.
Might not be the issue but I’m pretty sure just taking them up to 25psi once won’t seat them properly

Just to chip in with my own experiences. I’ve tried ESI chunky grips and they gave me sore, tingly hands. However I get on fine with lock-on ODI Ruffians, which are both smaller diameter and harder. I have large hands (XL glove size) so this goes against the accepted wisdom as to what ought to work. Clearly it’s not as simple as thicker, softer grips fix hand pain.
FWIW, I reckon the ESIs are too soft, for me at least and don’t spread the load out enough, so that once they compress a bit under your hands, you end up leaning on a barely padded, thin bar. Clearly, your own experiences may vary.

Head torch round the dogs neck collar style makes it easier to spot too. Our dog also seems pleased to be able to see where it’s going in the dark a bit better.

Fair enough, I stand by that though. Certainly there’s fees, but in every case I’ve sold on eBay (40 odd items over a few years) it has always been well worth it over selling to a mate, even after fees, plus you always get a sale in a week, plus there’s no issue with still feeling responsible for something you used to own that your mate now uses.
Anyway, your own experiences and those of many others higher up the thread would seem to back me up, many things go for a ridiculous amount above their normal market value on eBay.
I do buy things off eBay too but I’ll always snipe them at the last moment so I can avoid getting involved in auctions that might go beyond what I’m comfortable paying.

Double post.

eBay is a great place to sell, you will always get the best price you’d possibly get for that item. Not such a good place to buy for the exact same reason.

The answer to that depends on whether you want to sell it regardless of what it turns out to be worth.
If you do, just stick it on eBay. Anything with an honest advert and good photos run for a full 7 day auction on eBay will reach it’s market value, regardless of what it starts at. It’s most effective to start everything very low, it will just get the bidding going, it goes for the same in the end.
On the other hand, if you have a minimum you’d feel comfortable taking for it and you are happy to keep it otherwise, then start it at that, or do as Breadcrumb suggests then advertise it wherever you prefer.

more resistant to deformity under load, so less squishy

This.
Higher modulus = stiffer

My money is on something cable related. How was it before you fitted new cables?

our cat seems to be able to do that cartoon trick of spreading it’s legs so far that it’s impossible to get it into anything, it can also semi fly by wriggling through the air and if you try and, well, throw it, it just grabs your clothes and skin so you can’t get rid of it. All while biting.

Ah, ours only have the regular level cat ninja skills, they can bridge across the entrance to a cat carrier no problem, but a bath would be too much…

I reckon with the clutch type mech you’d be ok with the just the top part of a guide and no pulley for 1x but you’ll only find out by trying it. A proper full tooth profile single front ring is a must. All I can tell you for certain is that it almost elminates chain slap and it will be a big help with chain retention.

When we’ve washed our cats we’ve just filled the bath up a bit with soapy water, got the cat in the bathroom, door closed and let the cat wander around all unsuspecting for a then scoop it up and drop it it the bath. Then stand clear, don’t try to wash it by hand. Cats swim fine, so it won’t come to any real harm and it will froth the water up a treat as it tries to climb out. If it makes it out, do it again and repeat until it’s looking a bit cleaner, then a final shot with fresh water for a rinse or get the shower head on it. The bathroom will get wet everywhere, and the cat won’t enjoy it, but both of those things are going to happen regardless and you’ll get a lot less badly injured.

I’ve been running one for a few rides, maybe 10 or so. I’m running 2×10 with 22/36/Bash on the front and was previously running a standard X9 mech and an E13 DRS. When I fitted the type 2 mech I removed the DRS roller and backplate but kept the bash ring. The bike is just as quiet through rough sections and much quieter to pedal with the DRS off and the chain seems to be staying in place fine so far.

Yes.
The bottom of the U of the shape between the teeth is round when it’s new. You can see some flat along the bottom on yours, like the U shape is too wide.

Looks pretty beat up even allowing for the weird tooth shapes on middle rings. Notice the big wide U shape of the spaces between the teeth and the relatively pointy teeth compared to the more rounded teeth and tighter radii in between on the small ring.

750mm bars on a 70mm stem. Plenty of trees here too and don’t have an issue any more often than I used to with 685mm bars.

Quick check on the free hub would be to drop it back off, clean it up and reassemble with just a little oil on the freewheel pawls.
It wouldn’t be the slippiness of the grease that’s the problem, more the thickness / stickiness preventing the pawls from popping out and engaging properly.

Yup, there’s nothing else left that’s in the load path, it must be the chainring(s)

Could it be in need of being driven a bit harder for a while to clean all the soot out?

For what it’s worth, the Shimano levers I tried before ending up with the Avid CRs on my wife’s bike can’t be set anywhere near so close as the Avids. Worth a play in a shop though as the more recent ones may be different.