Anyone tried adapting a Shimano Capreo hub and going for smaller rings at the other end of the cassette?

http://canfieldbrothers.com/components/9-tooth-rear-hub

As above, I have no experience of the BBs, but the headsets are superb. I actually do move them from one frame to the next. The only reason I can see to buy a replacement for either of the ones I’m running will be buying a frame that it doesn’t fit into.

No oil in the separate new parts, it’d leak all over the place in the packaging.

bloody hellfire, how heavy are those Time pedals! over 1kg the pair – do they do a mag/plastic version?

The 525g weight is for a pair, not each, and yes, the ones I linked are lighter and very comparable weight wise with the Shimano and Crank Brothers ones with a simliar size platform.

are the times adjustable though?

Some of them are, some not, but you honestly don’t miss it on the ones that aren’t.
These are: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/time-atac-mx6/rp-prod105728

I’ve no idea how accurate that is

I do :-)

It’s all about how you personally prefer your bike set up, but since you asked, I always aim to have a single 5mm spacer on top of the stem so that the steerer can run all the way through the stem. My current bike has a long headtube so there’s nothing under the stem. I’d guess the bars are 2″ below the saddle. That feels about right to me for a trail bike. They are a comfy height for climbing and with the saddle dropped they feel high enough for steep and/or fast descending.

Some nice before and after shots for the doubters here:
http://www.carbonframerepair.com/index.php/repair-gallery/

Robinlaidlaw – it was crack cleaner up scolty where it first came off

I guessed you were local from the user name. That’s exactly the stuff I ride and mines been fine on the 5Spot. I was out last night and did MDK and one from the tower, the trails are back to being dry and fast again and there was no hint of problems or chain drop.
I reckon just the top guide would sort it for you, I’m using an E13 XCX and it doesn’t rub or make any noise and it’s very light so it’s staying on.

Clutch mech, thick / thin ring and a top guide only and it’s totally solid for me, at reasonable speed on bumpy terrain (Aberdeenshire). I’m not convinced it’d stay on without the top guide but that only weighs 60g. You certainly don’t need a bash or lower roller.

The LBS has offered to file the crown race down to try get it on snug

8O
Run away. Do not use this workshop again. This person does not understand how press fits work and should not be allowed to work on your bike.
If you need to change the diameter of the seat on the fork, it needs to be done with a proper tool for the job (this is not a file BTW), otherwise the result will not be round and the crown race will not fit properly, leading to it starting to move and damaging your fork.
And if they couldn’t even figure out that you can tap the race into place by means of a few minutes very careful work using a hammer and a drift, working on one side then the opposite and carefully tapping it down, they don’t know enough to be charging for their services.

I entirely disagree with any suggestion that this is O.k. A headset or crown race fitted just a tiny, invisible bit of perfectly straight will kill the bearings in short order, get it properly fixed.

It’s the huge descent that starts where you join the black route that’s memorable. You aren’t missing out on anything apart from almost 10km that feels like it’s all uphill.

Where are you carrying your phone? The iPhone is capable of tracking just fine despite what many Garmin owners will tell you, but it needs a decent view of the sky. At the top of a backpack / Camelbak or in the back pocket of a jersey works well.

Anyone could end up upside down if they tangle a leg in the rope, so it’s less to do with their ability to stay the right way up and more to do with whether they have a defined enough waist that they couldn’t fall out of a harness if they end up upside down. Full body harness if not.

As mentioned above, liquid smoke is handy stuff (go easy though, it doesn’t need much) and a good glug of red wine helps. Between the smoked paprika, some red wine and the chocolate in the one we do, offset against the chilli you get an amazingly big, complex flavour. Lovely.
Standard red kidney beans will do in a pinch but black beans have a better texture.

Another one for no quorn or meat sustitutes.
This is a cracker though:
http://www.gransnet.com/recipes/dish/5504-Black-bean-and-aubergine-chilli-recipe
We’ve fed this to meat eaters many times and they have loved it.
Edit: We tweak this by using a little less chilli than it says and using smoked paprika. And don’t forget the dark chocolate.

No, you aren’t over reacting, that’s really rude. The bike belongs to you and anyone borrowing it should be treating it at least as well as you treat it, which is not the same thing as how they treat their own bike.
That goes double if they didn’t ask before picking it up.

I’m on a 5 Spot at the moment, so it’d be a Burner for me, but the new Pivot Mach 6 is looking very good too.

The big front rotor will be making it feel grabbier. Harder pads, such as sintered will grab less.

Long wheelbase will usually imply a long top tube too as very few designers deliberately go for long chainstays, so both of the options for long but primarily the low BB for the low part.

They seem to stay in stock for less than a day, you’ll need to sign up for the stock alerts on Wiggle and CRC and pounce straight away when one comes through.

What’s wrong with being am up-specced mondeo? They are good cars, aren’t they

Yes, but Fords are terrible for rusting, or at least the 6 year old and over ones are.

Unfortunately I don’t think there was ever a turbo Outback, even in Japan.

ha ha – if only that was true!! I remember when I had my Impreza, I used to be able to *just* get from work to Carlisle Tesco on a full tank of 98 and then burn best part of another between there and Peebles

Rachel
O.K, I’ll concede, a continuous gentle cruise gets you just into the 30s, but over about 100,00 miles in my two turbo Imprezas I basically found I got 20 in town, maybe 22 on average and 25 on longer trips regardless of driving style. I could get 30 on a trip from Aberdeen to Aviemore and back if I drove so as to try and not wake up a sleeping passenger but there was no difference between driving normally with my wife in the car and driving it like I’d stolen it with a mate to go MTBing somewhere, 25mpg either way. My conclusion was that I wasn’t paying the rest of the running costs to baby 30mpg out of it, so I might as well fully extend it when there was the chance.
My wife’s N/A Forester was too big and non aerodynamic to manage the 30mpg cruise and just returned 20-22 all the time but had less than half the power…

We’re now on our second – great cars, happy on everything from autobahns to green lanes and tough with it. If you’ve got your own oil well, get the turbo XT version which will give an Evo a run for its money.

With Foresters, and Subaru’s in general, just buy the turbo one. The N/A ones only get 2-3 mpg better economy but have a lot less power. Economy on all versions is poor but at least you feel like you can understand where all the fuel went in the turbos, plus they give basically the same economy driven hard as gently, so you might as well…

Currently intrigued by combining a General Lee with this:
http://canfieldbrothers.com/components/9-tooth-rear-hub
I reckon with a little fiddling you can get a nice evenly spaced 9-42…

It is weird that robgclarkson seems to be getting good shifting, whereas myself and butterbean are having the same issue where it’ll only shift well one way in stock form. As far as I am aware there is nothing different between the GS and SGS mechs that should affect shifting but you never know. I’ll have a close look at my wife’s SGS XT this evening to see.
As you say, it’s a shame that Shimano haven’t just done this themselves though, I’d buy one in a shot.

I’ve only taken material off the sides of the teeth and a little off the tops. The very sharks fin shaped tooth was already like that and the material is off the trailing side.
I haven’t directly touched the loaded surfaces of the sprockets and only the second set of chamfers, the ones on the back to help it drop down, have taken anything off the width of the loaded face of the teeth.
The rest of the modifications are all on the trailing face so should make no difference to the wear. The teeth are much wider and taller than the standard steel ones anyway, which is probably part of why it hold the chain too well, and I’ve only taken perhaps 20% off the width of maybe 10-15% of the teeth. To be honest unless the chain was worn out the load will be carried further down the teeth than I’ve taken any significant material off.
It looks like it’s a little worn, but if you have a look at a brand new shimano sprocket, it had all the same shaping, albeit some of it is achieved by physically twisting the teeth which I wasn’t going to do with aluminium.
I’m not concerned about the effect that my mods will have on it’s lifespan, and basically it came down to it not working satisfactorily without the mods so it’s a no brainer for me.
It’d be great it they did it at the factory but looking at it and how it was machined, I can see why they didn’t, it’d need a good bit more fiddly work on a different machine and the cost would go way up.
It wouldn’t put me off buying another if I needed one, it still makes it possible to get a set-up that you have any other way – a super wide range 1x set-up with Shimano shifter and mech.

I can either have it shifting well on the up shifts, but lazy on the downs, or vice versa. Seems like others have commented on similar issues. Maybe some tooth modification is needed.

Exactly how mine was behaving. The mods have fixed it, the shifting is more than acceptable now.

And here’s a few pictures of the tweaks I made to the tooth profiles with a dremel:
To help it drop to a smaller sprocket (look at the second sprocket):
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And on the back of the teeth (look at the largest this time):
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And to help it climb up:
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Yes, I know that my bike is dirty and my garden and basement are a mess…. :D

Here’s it installed:
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O.K, here’s a few pictures of the Shimano one:
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At a glance the 328 long piece up near the top is the only thing that can be fairly slim as it’s in tension. Everything else is in pretty heavy duty bending or compression.

I could be wrong but I make it to be 9152N

For what it’s worth I prefer torx on the rotor bolts too, I find them more resistant to rounding out.

I do get very annoyed to see torx bolts on chainsets though. Anyone know whay Shimano do this now? I don’t want to carry a torx tool that big out with me as well as my allen keys.

I think the bolts are aluminium these days aren’t they? Probably because of that. Given how tightly chainring bolts can stick in, the chances of getting an aluminium one out with a plain hex would be slim I’d say. The size of the socket is small for the diameter of the threads too.

Sorry, double post.

What you’ve just described is pretty much the exact reason that it’s considered a bad idea to use anything smaller than 1/2″ fasteners (i.e about the size of car wheel nuts) on oil field equipment, regardless of what you are using them for. Anything smaller will get broken but 1/2″ and up is unlikely to be stripped by hand and anything that’s too big to do by hand will get done with proper torquing gear so it’s safe. Weight is slightly less of an issue than it is for bikes though…

No problem, I’ll do that this evening.

I’m running the middle of the XT mechs (GS rather than SGS) It seems to cope fine, there’s plenty of capacity and the b-tension easily adjusts to clear the 42t