Any of the above. Bear in mind that it will have been designed with a much longer stem in mind than in normal now, i.e 100-130mm so what will suit now will depend on whether you are planning to stick with that or go shorter.
I ride large frames typically now (6ft tall) and used to ride an 18″ Kona way back.

LoCo,
Is that a mod that you can do reasonably easily / cheaply? Could you supply a set of 29″ Revs pre-modded to 120mm for instance?

I just got one pack and did the back edges and the outer two on the front edges, leaving the middle one on the front edge standard and leaving out the centre of the platform and the outer edge entirely. Bingo, nice concave feeling and huge grip.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope-flat-pedal-pins/rp-prod118700
The Hollow pins option in the above is what you need, longer and drilled out on the top. Additionally you’ll help the grip and feel if you don’t fit the pins in the centre of the pedal, possibly also the ones on the outer edge.

Provided it’s not cross threaded, you’ll do well to strip a BB and because the shoulder of the cup tightens up against the end of the shell they come up very solid quite quickly. So, tight but as above don’t go mental and hammer it or jump on it. In contrast to the above, if you can still move it one armed with a sensible length handle it’s not tight enough.
Edit: I’d always pull on the spanner to tighten, don’t push on it with your weight behind it, you’ve got no control that way, that’s reserved for un-doing things. If you brace yourself against the frame and pull the spanner you’ll have a pretty good feel for the point at which it stops turning.

I’m 6ft and riding a large 2011 Enduro. There’s no way a small will fit I wouldn’t think.

Hope F20s don;t have that bulge and are pretty slim, and reliable. They need the alternative pins fitted for best grip but that’s easy done. Not cheap though.

If the mech still has a little movement left in your big to big combination at the point in the suspension travel that needs most chain (probably but not definitely full compression), then you are fine.

Combination of this:

I used to be able to do it in the Impreza.

and this:

I also have to be driving properly fast (on track of course, before the STW massive get involved) to be able to do it, otherwise the pressure I need on the brake pedal isnt enough to bring my foot in line with the accelerator.

Satisfying when you get it right though. Most modern cars have overservoed brakes though and that makes it much harder.

Combination of longer / more remote and rougher / less manicured. As above, it’s not technically hard but some of it is relatively rough and not every corner is bermed. There’s no compulsory big jumps or anything of that nature though.

If it’s in and torqued up you are in the clear, heave a sigh of relief and continue as you were.

Initial thoughts are that I think you are underestimating the forces it’s subjected to and overestimating the strength of glue and tape. However, if you want to give it a shot, your best bet I reckon would be a metal filled two part epoxy (JB weld or similar) applied exactly per the instructions after cleaning the surfaces to be glued very carefully and then leave it somewhere warm to set for at least as long as it says on the instructions. It may or may not hold together.

You can still fit a 26″ wheel in there and have loads of tyre clearance.

Indeed, I’ve just bought a pair of 650b Pikes to run with a 26″ wheel on a 26″ Enduro on the basis that I don’t mind the slightly longer axle to crown length and if I decide to build up a 650b bike in the near future I’ll already have a pair of forks so I don’t need to get so many expensive parts in one go.

You have the new 57mm stroke shock? Fit, it, let all the air out and bottom the suspension out fully. Does the frame contact anywhere? Check around the pivot points as well as obvious places like above the back wheel. Give it a good heave and lean on it to be sure. If not, you are all good, pump it up and go and ride. If it does, a decent suspension tuner can probably help you by adding a stroke reducer to the shock.

You’d struggle to make such a big improvement in your bike’s performance for so little money as paying extra for the better tyres.

If you like Barons and minions, you’ll like them I reckon, kind of a best of both worlds of those two tyres. Or like a Baron but bigger and stronger.

when did you calibrate the torque wrench?

Indeed. The torque value is to try and control the tension in the fastener which due to variations in friction at the threads and under the head of the fastener could vary 50% in either direction very easily. In other words, either one will be fine, I’d go slightly tight.

You only need to turn it off to get the wheel in and out.

Anyone use these tyres?

Yes, I like them a lot. Casings seem tough, super grippy everywhere, acceptable weight and rolling (to me)

Are they gonna be too much for everyday trail riding?

Depends on you and where you ride. What other tyres do you like?

Perhaps it’s because I’ve been riding along time, so remember 28t granny rings and 11:28 cassettes being pretty standard?

28/38/48 rings and 14-28 in six sprockets was normal when I started. A modern 3x set-up has lower gears in the middle ring than that did in absolute granny gear. I’d not go back to a 1:1 first gear but 32:42 is fine on 26″ wheels.

Tight, but not because of that. With that cassette you shouldn’t have any bother with it biting in.

It’s fine. That’s how it’s meant to be. If the cassette was sitting that much too far out you’d never get the lockring threads to catch.

That’s the thing, with a decent set-up and a 42t sprocket on the rear you aren’t missing anything like that whole granny ring. Try the experiment again but instead of avoiding the granny ring entirely, just don’t use your very lowest 1 or 2 gears in the granny. Now can you manage?

There may well be some other issues underlying this that need properly sorted, but, particularly if you are arguing a lot at the moment the best way out of that one was right at the beginning when you could have either not asked what the temperature was, or replied “O.K, not too bad then, hopefully that’ll help him feel better”. You did start out from the standpoint of trying to prove that you were right and get her to admit she was wrong, which isn’t going to help if you look at it from her point of view.

6 to 10 mph average is normal for me, depending on the type of ride. What I prefer to do is steep up followed by steep down, which tends towards the 6 mph average end of the scale.

The first couple of rides, your left thumb will occasionally wave around where the front shifter used to be, then you’ll push your rear shifter again, just to be sure you don’t have a gear left, then you just get on with it and it’s fine. After the first couple of rides you don’t ever notice other than you are slightly quicker up hills than you were. It never actually gets to be a problem. Whether the advantages are enough that you’d prefer it overall, only you can tell, and even then, only after trying it for a bit.

Do you not spin out going downhill?

No, it’s almost always possible to avoid descending anything open enough to need gears that high around here. The good stuff, there’s no way you are pedalling. In some places I can see an issue though, but you aren’t losing all that much really.

Why not MTFU and go SS?

Because there’s a very big difference between the 20″ ish lowest gear on a 1×10 with a 42t sprocket and the 50″ ish single gear on a SS and there’s no way I could push one single gear everywhere.

binners a 32×11-42 setup only loses you 1 or 2 granny gears,

In rough terms I reckoned that I lost about 1-1/2 gears at each end, going to a 30t ring would make it one at the low end and two at the high end. I certainly don’t miss the high gears and even as someone who only gets out once a week I can easily manage without the low gears. For me, the big sprocket adapter is definitely necessary, some of my much fitter mates can manage 32 front with 11-36 rear, but round here, I would struggle a bit.

For what it’s worth, I didn’t ever have functionality or reliability problems with front mechs but the bike runs more smoothly without it.

What are the gradients like?

Pretty steep in places around Aberdeen. My lowest gear now is equivalent to just a touch higher than the granny ring and second from largest sprocket, and I was running a 22t granny and an 11-36 cassette. You can cope with that without too much trouble. I’m running 11-42 and a 32t front now and it covers what I need no problem.

I saved 1.2 lbs by going from a 2x set-up with a chain device to a 1x with a clutch mech, narrow wide ring and a wee top guide. It runs quieter, smoother and although I initially looked for the lower gears sometimes, I was never actually forced to walk instead of riding, so I clearly didn’t need them. I’d not go back.

What are the chances that it will be exactly one or the other?

Basically nil. There’s always some spare chain to be removed.

I think the thing that tells you that Mondeos handle decently is that you don’t notice it. I remember driving a works Passat about 15 years ago and swinging into a corner at what would have been a comfortable speed in my own car (a Corrado at the time) and it just plowed straight on. No harm done but it was a horrendous handling thing and quite alarming, it surely had enough rubber on the road to turn in but it just didn’t. These days I think almost everything is at least safe and grippy it’s just a case of whether there’s some degree of finesse and balance about it.

Rub it down to shiny metal, including the edge of the paint around the rubbed area as the rust will have crept underneath the edge of the paint. Then put a coat of primer and a coat of paint on it, job done. It looks to be silver so you can get Hammerite in about the right colour from Halfords or similar.

Then why not travel to get the right car?

This, a day and two tanks of petrol to get what you want? It’s not a big deal when you consider how much time you spend driving your car, it’s worth a little effort to get something you like rather than just something that’ll do.

didn’t skip a beat in 1200000 miles.

1.2 million miles?!!! Impressive :wink:

Pump it up 30 psi too high then release air with the gauge until its at the pressure you want.

I’d probably still ride if it was bad for me

Also this ^

mrhoppy +1

Your shoes are too soft, I’ve had the same issue and proper flat pedal shoes fix it.

Are you sure, cos that’s what it looks like to me

+2