go on the sram site
click on service
lefthand side of screen is a list of videos there all there mate,upper leg lower leg, service vids,oil levals the lot..

i thought about that one and hoped it was that.
it,s just that at 100mm there was 100mm exposed.if this is the case i,ll cut the spacer to 10mm to drop the front end a bit and just use 120 instead .i think the frame angles would be a bit slack with an extra 40mm rise.

nearly killed a pakastani girl at llandegl once.
she was walking with mates up a rough part of the red.
crazy muther fickers.

ride it into the ground then cry over the loss of a loved one later.then buy a new bike and there you go.a new love is born.
and the cycle continues.
sorry about the punn

why not take the travel spacer out of them

fox sidwinders are spot on also knog goatskin

car boot

trout i thought about this it just seems too much for the forks.acording to the sram site it,s just a matter of removing the spacer but the spacer is in two bits that are connected ,they measure 37mm.i,m not going to use the bike untill i,ve made a proper sized spacer.has any one else on here ever done this.
ampthill.(engine rebuild’s. great distinguishing , from ‘ more difficuilt!)whats your problem,fool.

job done.trout wrestler.the spacer is plastic, it,s the bootom out that is rubber.
dead simple to do,the spacer is actualy 37mm as it has a revolving top cap to it so i removed the lot,full oils change.15w-5w high performance race bike spec.all new o rings,neoprene from highend blumbers merchants,bought a load for £2.total cost of full service £16.i.m made up.first time i,ve done it and is a piece of piss,mind you i,ll blow my own trumpet a i have race prepared a ford kent engine before now.god i,m good he he (self apreciation society).i ,ll now remake the spacer out of ti,probebly do a couple to take the travel to exactly 120mm as now they are at 137mm.jobs a gooden.

cheers james.i,ll have a looksee io tinterweb for a rs 10mm spacer but i,m sure i could make a 10mm very acuratly.i,v go a lathe and loads of cutting tools and fortunatly for me my dad was a tool maker so things get done to within a 1000th of an inch(cleaver git)he can tell when you,ve even picked something up,(thats got a thow of sweat on that he he)

are they avids with hope rotors

iv, got a small hilti concrete breaker but thought it a bit severe.

nice one dobo

ah good idea

there is no way i would even cosider riding on the road. there are just too many cars.life is for living not major surgery or death.i love cycling but can,t understand why you would want to ride on the save piece of tarmack as thousands of 1 tone steel boxes traveling eraticaly by some realy realy crap drivers how don,t even see you,have never riden a bike,don,t follow any road rules.the law of avereges and all that.youd have to be of you trolley.stay in the mountains for god sake.

must be locking the up too tight for them to round.

very nice.don,t like the chainstay protector though.
looks like it,s of the side of a ford capri.
top bike though.

my easton monkey lite ct2 are superb.great for xc.a bit pricey though about £90

yes.its abrake disc

don,t sell your bike mate.you will regret it.sounds a top bit of kit that you,ve put alot of your sole into. it would definitly break you heart and you don,t need that ontop of everything else.it,s only money that will soon go but you won,t get your bike back and the tranquility it brings.take care bud.

ah.bless her

nice looking bike .is that a 29er or is it my eyes or is the frame small.

got one on my spesh.it,s a spesh one from the u s of a.
a neat little device that fits most mech,s by means of diferent length hex bolts.it realy locks up solid and is well strong.
if your going to get one try and find one of these.
there a lot better than the one you showed.about the same size but the screw you see on yours is hex shaped to fit the hex in the mech then it tightens via a bolt through the hanger..spot on.rocksolid

stuckup middle class winkers who speak like they,ve got a plum in there mouth and don,t give you the time of day let alone speak to you unless your cliped in to a lightweight xc machine

cheers sharki. i,ll try another pump.

stoney .i think your loosing the jist of this post.it,s not about sag.it,s about trying to balance tha +ve and -ve chambers

stoney so now you mean 30%sag
(Well sitting on the bike you probably want about 30% travel loss altogether )thats a bit much for the old sturdy pike.

chunky .got that one sussed aswell.
iv,e had dual air revs before so i know all the little tips.
it,s just these pikes are getting on my nerves,but such is life.
there,s all ways a price to pay when you want things perfect.

got superstar nono,s and v12 mags.both cracking pedals.

stoney.yes i know about the pressure loss and have sussed that one out already.
so you do get 10-20%travel loss when set up.

got me thinking it night be the pump is not acurate but it,s new and seems to be.be good if you could get a digital one.

HoratioHufnagel .no there the full 140 pikes.
jamesgarbett cant see there being a leak or the +ve pressure would fluctuate and it doesn,t

poddy. done that but the closer i get to equalizing them the more the travel reduces(same-125mm)
140mm pikes

right back again 100 psi gives me 28mm sag 20%
the most i can put in the -ve is 60 psi befor it starts to drag the travel down.
is this ok gang..

back in a min go and set to 25% and try again

cool arn,t they
i,ll try and dig out some photos of the lizards that i get in my garden.
i live right next to an overgrown orchard thats never touched and the wander in amazing to see and rare.

benn through it for my rp23 it,s spot on

cheeky monkey.what was up with them to be sent back.mine spitt out a bit of oil out of the -ve valve.

CHUNKY.
Thats the answer i was looking for i new it would come in the end.
nice one mucker.