I have both and consider the stoker to be like a feature but with better venting…really comfy lid in fact and you get overbrow ventilation. New one this year has an adjustable visor. I’d go with a stoker..

Ah hadn’t looked at the seat stay bridge..

Yeah I have thought about the rune actually..

If the chainstays are 430mm on both though, wouldn’t you have more tyre clearance with a 26 wheel and therefore the 650 wheel would fit in both if it fits in the patrol, or am I missing something?

I think I’ll probably just go with the patrol anyway..

I love mine too. Wouldn’t use it in the summer perhaps, but I think you could leave it on the front for all conditions during winter/spring.

I demoed a 153dl, it felt amazing on the downs but it is a lot of bike. If I were to get one id lighten it up abit or you may be better off with the 134.

The pig or rhinefield house.

This was designed around a 140mm fork.

Frame weight was approx 7lbs. Bushings worked great on mine.

I had one, lovely frame, sorted geometry, but it snapped too. An early one before the ‘redesigned’ rear end.. I would doubt much clearance for 650b tyres…an ikon would go in I’m sure.

I have one, your welcome to have a go if your anywhere near Brighton. Set up with 120mm SIDS, overall really happy with it, could be a tad lighter but I have mine set up as an all rounder rather than xc whippet. I have a 45mm stem on a med and it feels ace. I have also thought about putting an angleset in to see what it’s like. Pretty versatile frame.

I have one, usually wear a medium which fits me fine but worth noting it is a different fit to the old super… There is some extra vinyl nitrile padding inside so if you really are on the edge of a medium better to go large..great lid very happy with mine. If your 59 I’d go large.

Yeah I wouldn’t say it’s ‘essential’ but I did notice a difference with the chip lot installed. Just a touch more solid and stiff.

Yes definitely, makes a difference.

Sweet protection one looks pretty swish!

Rear tyre clearance is tight! Not had a schwalbe on mine but fitted a beaver 2.25 fine, albeit with minimal room for mud to pass through. Lots of people modify the arm on their front mech to give abit more space. Great frame.

Have a look on this forum, the marketing guy from Marz posts on there and is really good at giving info.
http://forums.mtbr.com/27-5-650b/marzocchi-better-late-than-never-908511-4.html

Yep they are the older style ones, the new ones I believe are a lot more slimmer cut.

Fruit is the main lemon behind superstar and has a bit of a reputation.

[/url]solaris and yeti by 55b7bb821ed24e40ecaad9db375d2e57[/url], on Flickr[/img]

Here’s a shameless pic of mine. Love it, im 5’9 and on a medium.

Regarding 350s theres a very useful thread here including input from the marketing guy at Marzocchi. http://forums.mtbr.com/27-5-650b/marzocchi-better-late-than-never-908511.html
The 2015 NCR is the one to go for if you want a fork to really compete against a pike or 36. Apparently very much like a mini 380. I have high hopes for this fork.List price is £799 but im sure they will be sold for less.

I also like the look of American classic All mountain wheels, and the Syntace W35s, but they are at least £600 a pair. Better at double the price? not sure…

I have the WTB i23 frequencys (two sets infact) and I think they tick all the boxes. Might be abit narrow for some who are after super wide rims but at 23mm internal, never had any problems, they are abit cheaper and lighter than the i25s too, got mine built with hope pro2 evos for £300… Hard to beat that if you ask me.
WTB are bringing out a 25mm wide version of their super light KOM rims. Now that might be something better!

There will always be something you forget.. Tools to put it all together.

There’s a clip on you tube of someone using Coca cola. Works a treat!

Ps, Is it defo an Pro 2 and not a Pro2 evo hub? On the evos you just buy the end caps conversion kit.

The Alpine used to be 135mm Maxle rear end so you are right about that. The new ones are 142mm. Id get a Hope Trex, been great on my Asr. Didnt even need to adjust the mech that much.

baseta26 I had a similar experience to DaveH with my Grapil, broke exactly the same way. My bike shop were excellent with dealing with it, and I wrote a stern email pointing out it has happened to multiple frames all at the same point and that it was clearly a manufacturing fault and I had lost all faith in the design as a whole, and why pull the bike, mid way through its year cycle if it wasnt a serious issue…Shame as I loved the bike, the geometry was ace.

The re-designed rear could be fine, Nukeproof megas suffered a similar problem on the 1st versions but they quickly sorted it and moved on. Id be asking for a new frame though..

I have owned both, and the Rev is much better. If you want to get rid of the dual air I suggest you get a Solo Air damper fitted by loco etc.

Ive seen pics of Solos and tallboys cracking too, all brands have some QC issues. Its how they look after you that counts.

I run 120mm sids and its spot on!

Rodigan Masterpiece. Its more than just Reggae as it starts off with some 60s soul but it is an awesome album start to finish.

Could you run the Solaris Single speed and get rid of the SS? The Solaris is a very versatile bike.
Does seem that you have a lot of cross over. I have a Solaris and dont think id ever want to get rid. But each to their own.

Cheers for the heads up on this, just bought the 45mm stem. Nice.

Connaught in Hove is good, walking in the other direction. Nice food and a little pub garden.

I have the Bell Stoker, and its ace. Kind of like a Giro Feature with better ventilation. Size up slightly big. Cheap too ;-)

Try removing all the air out, sounds like there is too much for your weight. Then with a lower pressure you can work in the right amount of compression and rebound so it is more active and composed.

I find Pinkbike far better for selling bikes/frames than here.

2000mm hydrostatic head is not very waterproof…My Montane Minimus is 20,000mm Nice jacket none the less but more of a showerproof jobbie.

I’d be looking at WTB i23 or i25’s. Lightish, strong, true tubeless rim profile and not too expensive, I love mine. American classic also seem to be well respected so worth checking out. Or what about the new Hope enduro rim?

I have a 5C, a much better bet, you can get them for free on some reasonably priced contracts. Dont be put off by the plastic back. feels nice.