Wicked Cycles’ eBay site are doing the Flow Ex on Pro 2 Evos for £285, I got some of the 29er versions last week. Very impressed

I’ve had three separate Reverbs do exactly the same thing in the first six months of owning one.

Bought from Germany, sent back through LBS to SRAM in Windsor and replaced with a brand new one every time

Shimano brakes + reverb remote = not so kack,mine all fit quite well although I’d prefer a right hand lever to run upside down if anyone is keen to do a swap now ive gone 1×10 and ditched the front shifter. See my thread from a few days ago if so:

Reverb remote swap thread

Your local bike shop will be able to order the specific chain rings from Madison in a few days. Use them, that’s what they’re good at :D

I had a 2007 Stumpy Expert which was perfectly balanced and great fun. Sold it at the end of a guiding season with BV in fear that I would snap it the next year.

Now riding a Rumblefish which feels just right, incredibly confidence inspiring downhill and not too shabby up them either

They’ve released a Shimano one, just available in last few weeks. Works with XT & SLX (not XTR) only

Response from Madison says send it back through original purchase point so hopefully ill get a replacement soon…which I’ll be promptly selling!

I think it’s fair to say that you’ve been had

Yes you can. Same clamp as XT & XTR. There is no threaded part in the lever clamp, the Ispec cover comes with an Allen bolt and a nut that sits in a recess in the clamp for the bolt to screw in to. Not very easy to explain until you actually get the bits in front of you

Going XX1 or XO1 is not viable. I have all Shimano stuff at the minute so would need new freehub body, cassette, chain, mech and shifter. Not worth the hassle plus I really like XTR and have an inherent distrust of a lot of SRAM stuff from previous bad experiences. I’m going to see how i go with a 32 front and 11-36 at the back to start with.

Cheers all

In stock at Bagnoli bike, many thanks all

Will try them, thanks Nick. Although not sure the above is strictly true; bike discount sell the SRAM ones and they ain’t Italiano!

Found him earlier but he’s pretty pricey, the auction on the latest one is up to nearly USD200 already!

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/the-manx-100

bails – Member
When people say the seals have gone, are they getting 5-10mm of sag when sitting on the saddle?

I’ve had three different ones do this since the original purchase in April. All replaced under warranty but if I get another one do it I’ll be giving up and flogging it when replaced the next time

A link has split,happens all the time, although usually with not as catastrophic and poorly timed knock on effects.

I think they’ll probably give you a new chain, replace the hanger and send you on your way. If you’re lucky. The YTS lad might just grunt and tell you bad luck though

KIng are now making a Shimano PF version. I got an email from Aspre Veltech in the States about it last week.

Available now apparently

Cheers STS, that’s the sort of response I was fishing for to be honest, I was convinced there was no movement in mine when it was new but just needed it confirming. Found the original invoice earlier; it was bought in April 2012 so if I’m not wrong there is a two year warrantyon XTR stuff?!

I’ve emailed Madison anyway, awaiting a response from them

Bump for the evening crowd. Anybody else?

I like that a lot. Looks ‘right’

I’ll see if I can find some new rings cheaper as the chain that snapped went in the bin at the trail centre

FACEPALM

Rabriquez, STATO, that’s exactly what I was saying. Different top cap required and make sure there is room for slack to be taken up before you start tightening everything up

Thanks Yetiman, I saw that the Shimano version was soon available, will keep my eye on the mighty bikediscount

That’s the puppy, just didn’t know the name. Found by google now, cheers

I’ve done my Rumblefish on the front of the seat tube where the second set of bottle cage mounts would be if it had them. No issues so far

The stock stem has an insert that allows you to change the angle of rise/fall, that is what the 8/16 refers to. I think you’ll find that it’s prefixed by a + or -. The gap in the insert must line up with the gap in the stem. The stem comes with an eccentric top cap which you shouldn’t use with a standard stem as the hole for the bolt isn’t centred.

As Tom says, all this probably has nothing to do with your headset, you’ll be bottoming out your top cap on your steerer. If any part of the underside of the top cap is touching the fork steerer the whole lot won’t preload the bearings. You need a good 3-4mm gap between the top of the steerer and the top of the stem before you start tightening up the top cap. Put a slim spacer between stem and top cap and you’ll be laughing

It’ll be a wear issue with your chain rings. Fish the old chain out of the bin, take out the broken link and rejoin it with a KMC split link. Save your new chain for when you get new rings and cassette

The quality of your shift comes from the shifter, not the mech, I run new XTRs and they feel luxurious in comparison to a mate’s XTs. Keep your cables clean and they are well worth the money

Trek Remedy 9 with full X0, XTR & Fox 36s. Best bike i’ve ever owned, incredibly capable up and down. Sold it when I knocked the missus up for the first time :D

My new one did this in May, only 4 weeks in to me owning it. Sent it back to SRAM who fixed it, stating ‘Air Gap’ as the cause with a whole host of seals and parts replaced.

It worked for a bit then did exactly the same thing again four weeks later. Sent it back again and got a brand spanking new one a week later.

The only thing it could be apart from completely foo-barred is that the pressure is down. Check it’s 250psi or otherwise a trip back for warranty beckons

That’s a massive mismatch. 2.5s on Crests will lead to them folding like a flan in a cupboard, I’d be running 2.3 absolute maximum (depending on tyre brand) on Crests as they’re a very slim rim designed predominantly for xc tyres

I adjusted mine the other day and only turning it clockwise three or four clicks made a diffence to the tension. probably about one turn of the screw. Make sure all the tension is out of the mech before you adjust it ie clutch lever in off position and chain in small/small combo.

HTH

Ordered. Nice spot

Edit to my post: if its a Pro2 hub you’re using then the 142+ issue doesn’t apply despite it being on a Spesh. It should fit a Syntace x12 frame without issues :D

Don’t Spesh use another standard they call 142 + which differs slightly. They used to certainly as I used to work at a Spesh dealer just as bolt thru back ends were starting to emerge.

Sorry if that pisses on your chips

One top trick though (taught to me by a bl**dy good mechanic and DH racer) is that once you have completed the bleed process, you can “trick” the caliper into thinking there is a bit of pad wear, and so get a more positive bite point feel.

To do this, take out the bleed block and put pads in, then put about 1cm of fluid into the funnel, slowly pull the lever once (with lever at horizontal position and nipple on caliper CLOSED) and release. Then close off funnel and bleed cap, insert wheels and away you go. Helps remove the very last little bubbles and ensures a really good lever feel.

This is the best piece of advice I’ve heard in ages, just done the same to my 785s and they feel brilliantly positive with short lever throw again. I was only thinking on today’s ride that they were getting a bit close to the bar, although they’ve always stayed sharp despite this. Now they are like throwing an anchor out the back with minimal lever throw, just as they should be :D

When you deflate the tyre it should stay stuck to the bead rather than ‘panging’ off and breaking the seal all the way round. You should need to force the tyre off the rim with your thumbs to remove it rather than it flapping about towards the centre of the rim

BB30 frames are specifically made and have an oversized BB area and take a larger diameter press fit BB cup and larger diameter crank axle. Youll know if you have one as there’ll be BB30 stickers around the shell. A Ti456 is unlikely to be BB30 compatible. As Creamegg says you can get an adaptor to run a 24mm axle in a BB30 fame but not the other way, there won’t be room in there unfortunately :(

Depends how big your hole is (if you pardon the expression). If your routing is tight then a length of hose is useful, you’ll get the red coupling bit in the packaging with the new post. I don’t think it will screw in to gear housing and I wouldn’t be using string. You only need the spare bit of hose to be long enough to go through the frame from the hose exit point out the top of the seat tube. With some frames this is only 30 cm or so.

The YouTube videos are pretty handy for bleeding as well, by the way

I thought the silver collar was for emergencies in case the seatpost failed – it enabled you to keep it at a fixed point. What are you using it for?

The silver collar you’re talking about is a travel limit collar for Enduro racing and the like. In other words its so you can drop the post just a bit easily and quickly and still be able to pedal without our knees being around your chin.

The other silver bit that might be referred to above is on the older Reverb models and is the top part of the external assembly. Checking that is tight would definitely help :D