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Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 691 total)
  • A Spectator’s Guide To Red Bull Rampage
  • 1
    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    Also, Unite appear to have gone back to Anodizing, alongside Cerakote, which was most peoples main gripe with them.

    Yeah. They still Cerakote, which is done in house I gather, where anodising is outsourced.

    I ordered a 31.8mm anodised stem from them a few weeks back, it’s a nice bit of kit.

    1
    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    35% off at Unite.co right now. Pedals, stems, chainrings. All UK made.

    Home

    Screenshot_20240912-064815

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    2 – Sherwood Pines Red – for the most part gravel bike friendly as well.

    2 – Stainburn – off-piste and marked

    1 – High Street Ullswater – must be 10 years since I did that loop but it was good.

    1 – Gunnerside Gill – or various surrounding routes in Swaledale.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    I’ve got one of their Whistler jerseys. I think those are the cheapest they do right now.

    It seems fairly decent. Comfortable & well fitting. 

    The only thing I’d say is the material appears to be prone to becoming statically charged. It’s not a problem as such but I’ve not seen the same recently on other new jerseys like the cheap Scott Trail ones from Start Fitness.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    I don’t think I’ve seen this posted as a PSA yet. There’s at least 50% off a load of the Polaris gear on their website.

    I ordered a pair of AM500 TX REPEL shorts and some coolmax socks not too long ago, the fit and quality seems pretty good.

    https://www.polaris-bikewear.com/

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    I’ve just fitted a Jagwire pro slick inner. Die drawn and then polished/ground for smoothness I believe.

    Seem to have very low friction and maybe a touch cheaper than the Shimano equivalent.

    Jagwire also do an elite ultra slick which is apparently even better. I would assume the lowest abrasion lowest friction cables will extend the life of the outer, so it might be worth the investment in the more expensive inner.

    https://jagwire.com/guides/inner-wire

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    If you can find the RS Revelations for a lower cost, maybe second hand, you could factor in a service with low friction seals and chuck in a better damper. 

    For example, the novyparts S-plug is ~£130 delivered to the UK. I’ve just fitted one to some RS 35 Gold and it’s night and day better than the MOCO.

    https://www.novyparts.com/produits-novyparts-suspensions-vtt/splug-bloc-de-compression-hydraulique/splug-bloc-de-compression-hydraulique.html

    2
    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    Fair point about the etched text, but how is someone going to know at all to look for the etching if it’s at all discreet. It’d need to be very obvious to anyone buying the bike second hand from someone’s who’s stolen it or the police.

    Indeed, hence I marked, noted the code, and didn’t register.

    So what use is it? The police will search for the number and sod all will come up on their database. Same applies to a second hand buyer, they’ll search for it and nothing will come up.

    You may as well just write down the frame number and not bother with the etching.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    I have, marked on the underside of the top tube so not too difficult to see/find but you wouldn’t know it’s there unless you looked for it.

    They come with a sticker as well, which I’ve put on the seat tube. That sticker stands out and makes it obvious to anyone to look for the code, if you didn’t put the sticker on for discreetness I’m not sure anyone would know what the code is for.

    So to me regardless of where you put the etch you’ll always have something obvious on the bike to show it’s been bikeregistered.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    I have ordered what at least is advertised as and shown as a 3D printed saddle with metal rails from Temu.

    Apologies this link probably bombards you with popups saying you’ll save a fortune etc.

    https://share.temu.com/NQQeTksWfeA

    Should arrive in a couple of weeks, I will feedback when it arrives.

    6
    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    This is Leo.

    Very much a COVID puppy, is 3 in a couple of weeks. We’d wanted a dog a while and COVID when WFH provided an ideal opportunity.

    Bit of a mixed bag, 50% Lab, 25% GSD and 25% Staffie.

    PXL_20240416_101720550.PORTRAIT

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    Let’s go for Mind. Fairly appropriate in the current circumstances.

    PM me and I’ll get some images across to make sure you’re happy with it, then hopefully post it out tomorrow all being well.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    I’ve got 30mm Salsa QR one which I’m sure is STW approved.
    It’s not perfect condition, so happy to post out for nothing if you throw a few quid at a charity?

    I’ve got a larger Hope one on a Orange P7, it’s shit. The reaction point for the QR is too far from the frame, QR has to be awfully tight to avoid the post slipping.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    I just can’t imagine which F1 team will accept the CEO of thier sponsor posting stuff like this.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    I don’t dare ask about placing turntable on sorbothane sheets or if 180g vinyl is better..

    180g… What about 220g?

    https://www.soundguys.com/cable-myths-reviving-the-coathanger-test-23553/

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    I’d suggest everyone goes and does some reading on the ‘skin effect’. It might go some way in explaining the difference in sound some people can apparently identify with cables. Although I should add I don’t believe it makes much difference in a home audio system with short cable runs and speakers with inductances vastly higher than the cables.

    I also read an article online recently where the frequency response at the speaker was compared when using fancy cable and a wire coat hanger. The result was effectively zero difference, a couple of tiny variances which could be considered within the measurement system tolerance.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    Lavazza seem to have nailed their bio-degradable pods. 6 months to breakdown.
    The selection on coffees is quite limited though, compared to Nespresso.

    One of the Lavazza machines would be my choice if I didnt already own a proper system.

    The process of producing coffee isn’t great for the environment, but neither is most agriculture. It’s getting more difficult to grow coffee too, the increase in global temperature means the beans(coffee cherries) need to be grown at higher elevations.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    I visited a few years ago, and agree it was a very sobering experience.

    However there are definitely some who visit and do not understand the magnitude of what occured.
    I saw a number of people pose for photos in some of the block 11 dark cells and the same in front of the ‘death wall’ at the same block.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    I coat the inside of my old frames with one of the many available rust converters. Pour in, shake it about. Let it dry a couple of days.

    I then add a coat of Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50 to finish. https://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-s50
    It’s a light brown wax, one of the best in the business for protecting cavities on cars so makes sense it’d do a good job protecting cavities on a bike.
    One aerosol bottle is more than enough for a bike, and comes with a long lance to get right along the top tube etc through the vent holes.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    Thanks @Paton, I have read a lot of the available studies and reports. Most of which indicate that the ovality and clocking are personal preference, or vary depending on bike geometry.

    Rotor also appear to back that up in the video, where the software says position 3 but he’s told if it feels better in position 2 then run that.


    @13thfloormonk
    , this is the experience I think most will have. Elite athletes may notice the slight variations but the majority of fitness/recreational cyclists may not.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    Clamp on flex joints are available in a wide range of diameters and lengths on eBay for less than £20. Quite a common repair on exhausts, cut the old one out, stick some exhaust paste on and clamp the new one in place. I’ve bought cars with repairs like this and they’ve lasted more than 4 years; usually the flex goes again and the rest of the original exhaust is fine.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    Given the speakers you have are from a kit, I would assume they are realitvley small. This is a problem, most hifi grade(or similar) subwoofers are very efficient and great at super low frequencies. 15-80hz typically, above 80hz they are likely to roll off very quickly hence why most receivers set this as the crossover frequency; along with that most bookselfs and floorstanding speakers roll off in the other direction at this frequency.

    If your speakers are quite small, they will start to drop off at a much higher frequency. Around 150hz typically IIRC, so the kits come with subs that suit that; smaller drivers and special porting… But, they don’t go to frequencies as low as a proper subwoofer.

    If you have the space, spend the money on some floor standing speakers for the fronts and you’ll get a frequency response similar to what you have but without the need for a subwoofer.

    Alternatively, buy one of the smaller Yamaha subs. Such as the Yamaha NS-SW100 or Yamaha NS-SW100 which have a frequency range between approx. 60 and 160hz which will work with the smaller speakers.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    Correct I think, 7mm hex keys are used on the vast majority of brake calipers.
    I suspect it’s to try avoid us mere mortals from messing around with critical braking components as the size isn’t common in most Allen key kits, although widely available as a stand alone tool.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    Effectively the difference in materials induces a potential difference when in presence of an electrolyte, yes. One material becomes the cathode and the other an anode, if you have a spare few hours go read DNVGL-RP-B401 which details how subsea structures are protected from corrosion through the use of sacrificial anodes.

    What I’m not certain on, is exactly how copper slip provides the protection for this on a Ti frame, as effectively to stop the corrosion you would be required to break the electrical continuity between the two materials. I suspect neither grease or copper slip would achieve this, but may stop the electrolyte(or water) from entering the joint between the two materials through capillary action which effectively stops the chance of corrosion at the joint.

    I suspect, as mentioned above; galling is the main concern as the forces induced in the small BB threads are high and similar at the headset interface.. in which case any fluid that reduces the make-up friction should be suitable.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    I’d say so. Get yourself some decent epoxy and bond the nutsert into there.
    Should stop any further crack propagation and hopefully stop the nutsert coming loose.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    Everyone is talking about Huawei, but have they forgotten Lenovo own Motorola Mobility(the smart phone part of the brand), and guess where they are head quartered…. China.
    No one is concerned about buying a Motorola because theres a long history of the brand.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    I bet it’s a toilet that is slightly leaking past the flush valve, which at 3.30 drops low enough to cause the fill to kick in momentarily. I’m going to guess it happens nearly exactly the same time every morning because the last time the toilet is flushed is fairly consistent the evening before.

    If the general pipe noise you have through the day hasn’t got any worse, then I suspect it’s not pipework that has become loose. I get a lot a water hammer in my house, have 1 mini hammer arrester on the washing machine supply, a mechanical arrestor on the hot water supply from the combi and an air diaphragm type on the cold mains.. it’s still not silent!
    Worth checking your water pressure though, get a gauge off eBay/Amazon for £10 or so. They hook up to an outside tap point, if your pressure is above about 3bar it might be worth fitting a PRV on your supply.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    Early bay forum for me, because that’s what I’ve got. Absolutely no use if you’ve got a newer camper though!

    The vast majority of the VW forums are getting quiet though, with everyone moving to Facebook groups and stuff. I’m not a fan of those groups; I think technical guides, useful answers and information gets swamped under posts talking about pointless stuff. There’s so much information which will be lost when the infrequently used forums close!

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    bump for the later crowd.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    Lidl chain lube.

    Not sure what it actually consists of. But it lubes better than the finishline dry stuff I also have.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    These
    and some centre lock adaptors?

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    Well my local bike shop could probably build a wheel for around 40 including spokes.

    So if you got a deore hub at about £20(when I last looked) then she would have spent £60.

    However, you can get two lighter+more reliable wheels for around £100-£140 from superstar/on one/merlin.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    And this is why you do an apprenticeship in engineering. You gain the college qualifications + workplace skills which can progress you to Uni.

    Plus, theres a decent chance of a job at the end.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    Don’t worry, if I kick the bucket overnight, my girlfriend should notice.

    She will if you kick it over on hard floor.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    Traitor.

    I think you should place all your apples on a brick and hit them with a hammer.

    This should give you a nice mushy mess that you wont want to play with.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    I’ve never owned Formula rotors but they are supposed to be some of the best because they heat up every rotor they make and make sure it doesnt warp. As far as im aware, they are the only ones who do that.

    I use some cheap Tektro ones my self that just work. Had Superstar before and I managed to warp one of them a little in Dalby! I only weigh about 11 stone and I hardly used my brakes!

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    3 big derailleur manufacturers if you are a roadie.

    Campag, SRAM and Shimano.

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    As above.

    Or some more information so the STW Massive can help you. Are they discs?(could we be working with vee’s) and what make and model.

    Then we can explain to you the processes needed to hopefully solve the issue. It could be a multiple of issues so it may take some time to sort therefore if your not wanting to learn how to fix issues like this yoursef, so you can identify it next time, just take it to the shop..

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    I agree, your garden is pretty damn awful, it does look like you keep your shed nicely painted. I still see cobwebs on both corners though.

    What forks are they?
    Look like Fox, custom decals?

    R.lepecha
    Full Member

    If you’re still bothered about water ingress on the light you have just bought you could probably give the seal a light coating of Vaseline which should seal it just that little bit more.

    Haven’t done that to mine and its fine though, just seems like a reasonable idea.

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 691 total)