get a sscp7 torch for about £50 with two batteries and charger and spend £250 on some more nice bike parts its a no brainer IMO , the p7 really is amazing and if you get the 3 mode one you will have no problem getting 3 plus hours switching modes occaisionally, I get 2 hours on high setting per battery.IMO it really isn’t worth spendings 6 times as much money for a light that is not even twice as bright, I didnt believe the hype till I bought one, and I’ll say it again they really are an amazing light

the shock I was thinking of was a fox float rl ava which is 200 i2i and has a shaft of 57 that was defiantely sold to me as a 50 stroke. if it is the case it has a spacer, are they easy to remove?

read the question 🙄
irrepective of i2i length can for example a shock with a shaft length of 60mm only have 50mm sroke or must a shocks stroke always be the full length of its shaft?

as r3g says bushings and reducers are 2 separate things bushings you can get cheap from bearing suppliers.I’ve not yet found a cheap supplier of reducers tho- does anyone know any? ❓

cause they get it right its not rocket science it is shock specific, not bike specific ! its a 1/2 DU bush if its a fox, manitou and rockshox are different metric sizes £1 or so from a bearing supplier 🙄

I am 187cm and use 180’s on a geared bike and I can certainly tell the difference from 175’s

I have a blue anodised marin flat bar

ford freda AFT fact

I’m about to do my bombers to match my frame, plan is primer paint laquer then helitape

I’ve been using alien aluminuim on a few different bikes for a while and there is not much that is lighter, although when I next need to I will probably give the KCNC ones a try

We go tubeless for reliability , i have a 2l tub of liquid latex here and im not including it as “laying around” , im using stans and proper tubeless valves . Most of us here have spent a LOT of money on our bikes and want something reliable , latex does not have the microfibres that stans does …. but i still put a spoonful of latex in to seal awkward tyres .

well its been very reliable for me on 3 sets of wheels for the past 4 months, rather than rubbishing something which goes against your percieved only way of doing it- why not give it a try or accept they are much cheaper alternatives that work and dont need new vales, rimstrips or bmx tubes. I sill use stans at the moment but will look at making my own mixture when I run out. there is a reliable way to do it cheap

I put about 60ml per tyre hence 60p,buying latex and making your own sealant is next on my list which will bring the price down a lot. my tubeless conversion costs nothing as it uses things i have lying around like gaffer tape, insulating tape and valves from old innertubes, 😆 do the maths ozzybmx 😆

already do it for about 60p a wheel including stans sealant, planning to get it down to about 15p a weel in the near future 😆

you dont need to add more sealant, just put the wheel in the bath to find leaking areas then tilt the wheel so the sealant flows to that area and seals it rep eat as many times as you need 🙄

01530414142

it means I have £14 more to spend on bike bits so I’m very happy, and I get the satifaction 😆

its more satisfying doing it for pennies

yes there is a weight advantage i am using 50g of sealant, stans is the best for longevity(still fine after 4 months, though I am trying an experiment with adding some car windscreen washer to increase this)with an old valve and some insulating tape- max 20 grams. so i’m saving around 100 grams per wheel compared to a normal tube.

make your own latex mix, use insulating and packing tape,old valves, use conti tyres. mucho cheapness works 100% of the time IME, lighter than using bmx tube and works just as well super ghetto I have never had to use soap suds and have never got messy. I used Stans and Rolf Dolomite rims and these rims and 3 different types of conti tyres has worked fine so far. THE MOST IMPORTANT factor is tyre rim combiation so if your tyre is a slack fit on the rim I woulndnt even bother trying just try another brand. I also started off with a compressor, but yesterday replenished some sealant and reseated with just a track pump. remember tight fit for tyres is good

they are a classic set of wheels, dont really think they are retro.I’m sure if you post with pics and they are in reasonable nic you will have no probs getting £120.

why would you be surprised? they are a good looking fairly lightweight and reasonably rare set of wheels. I would consider £120 a bargain.I bought mine about 4 years ago and they are sill going strong with no maintenance just like my kings

you can buy an A6 sized patch from most decent shops for about £1.99. I last bought one about 12 years ago and there is still loads left

cheers pp,I think the c3 perhaps means stainless, which is why they are so expensive, I might give it a try with the normal ones and see how it goes

currently coming up with 0 results worldwide which was why I was asking 🙂

its not their fault you have lost the POP and can’t send a clear photo,

just wanted to say thanks for all the routes, plenty left for when we go next time

mmm yakiniku 😛

afaik 4GB for 32 bit

BTW: All men should be banned from wearing lycra

your obviously just an armchair cyclist then rudeboy 😆

include paypal as amethod of payment as well as PO and bank transfer and in the body of your as state in big font that PP is for int biders only and uk bidders must pay by PO or BT

just offer it for international bidders only in the text of your ad and make the post too high for them to think of bidding, job done

good for a night ride

isnt smoothwall linux only? Not had good experiences with zonealarm. anyone using PC tools?

yeah lets show him why he might need one 😆

you might not feel the need for one, but I certainly wouldnt be without one in addition to my router, I want to control who is connecting to my network and control who my network connects to

get an autofreetop mazda bongo many very cheap low mileage ones available, its the perfect biking vehicle

you dont need any! 1 layer of gaffer tape and 2 layers of insulating tape and an old valve, you also dont need removable cores just tip the sealant in the tyre and put back on the rim, look here it works

may be a don’t get it but if the bead doesnt break when using a tube why would it break when using tubeless

😆 I know in theory you can, just has anyone done it 😀

don’t waste your money , buy a 5 mode p7 and 2 batteries more light 1/3 of the price its a no brainer really