and with a ski on the front in the recent snow

Tallbikes coming next

Nope, but in Edinburgh we’ve been building THESE,

for THIS

and THIS

mark it all the way around using a paint pen and break out te angle grinder with a thin cutting disc.

Where do I collect my man-points?

my SS with flats, but it aint a hillclimber

if you’re worried about mashing mechs get a double pulley trials tensioner. They’re designed to be run right up underneat the chainstay so are more difficult to catc

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a111/matchybaby/IMG00181-20100915-1457.jpg

That little cube thing. was zeroed on the axle line, but should really have the stem taken off and be measured from the steerer for accurate readouts

The fork is a short-rake short axle to crown trials one to make it handle quicker and the high rise bars are to make up for the lost height.

hello kermit

If any of you Edinburgh folk are wanting a play on bikes tonight (thursday) Edinburgh bike polo are playing in leith. Breadalbane street from 8pm onwards. Be nice to see some of you there.

20″ wheels and drop bars for speed.

YGM oldgit

that the lad that works in the bikestation?

Just a little bump. Good to see some new folks there

Aye, title page IS a bit quick. ;)

Disk-covers – honestly, most are just old estate agent signs. not all of us use them, but they do help protect the spokes from polo-mallets and to a lesser extent hard shots with the ball. you’re more than welcome to have a go on someones bike for a few games if your own is a little too lovely.

i fell off loads but it was brilliant.

Hi Kunstler,
Next week it’s same time, same place.

we’ve been playing every thursday for about 2 years. Check out Edinburghbikepolo.com and there should be a link to the forum we organise ourselves on.

Colin

looks like we’ve got eleven or twelve folk playing tonight so it’s perfect for beginners.

We have mallets you can borrow and if you only own shiny bikes you’re more than welcome to borrow mine for a few games.

Look forward to seeing some new faces.

Love my fix-wheel (or fixie if your hip/trendy). The only thing I don’t like is the skinny tyres on 700c wheels.
Would want 1.5-1.9×26″ wheels for the sake of toe-clearance and pot hole ability, disc brake on the front, bullhorns and full length mudguards.

Don’t come go to Edinburgh, they’re we’re all horrible.

In MTB do race organisers really care about such things and enforce rulings with regards to the bike? (genuinely curious having never done any proper racing)

My roadrat is lovely, but wouldn’t want to do any mountainbiking on it.

Having no traction on the front wheel as my arse is hanging off the backwheel on anything vaguely downhill.

My apologies, I skim-read and thought you were just going to clamp a set of flats on without changing stem or anything else.

Heres a long-winded answer;

Two bikes with identical bar-saddle-bb positioning but with differing toptube lengths WILL handle differently.

On a drop-bar bike:
Riding with your hands on the flats is fine when your sat in the saddle; but try standing up and sprinting with your hands there and it’s much different.
Go out, have a shot and you’ll see. You tend to move forward on the bars the harder you’re riding (your body will drop too). On flat bars you can’t do this so you need to have the bars further out than where the flats-of-a-drop-bar would be, to compensate.

The short Roadrat with a Longer Stem will want to stay travelling in a straight line when your weight is on the bars much more than a long roadrat. The effect happens when you are standing up sprinting, hill-climbing etc. The stem acts as a control-spring wanting to return your bars to the neutral (wheel facing straight forward) position.

Basically, to run flat bars put a longer stem on.

Just over an inch is a lot. It will handle fine, but it will not fit you.

Just checking back on all my photos, and I have a long and badly documented history of breaking fix-wheel frames. 8 frames in 6 years!

No.1 It all started with this one. Cracked and rewelded twice. Twisted seat stay. Photo from sometime in 2005

Recycled it into this monstrosity.

No.3 Snapped at the downtube butts. Old 501 frame. Painted in Glow in the dark paint.

No.4 Twisted and would not ride straight

No.6
Magic Gear Giant OCR. T-boned a car which pulled out of a parking space bike was a write-off

No.7
Roadrat – the flexiest frame I have ever owned. Still running

Current frame, Old ribble 631, Carbon forks snapped (running surly ones now) and it dents SO easily and have had to fill all the dents in with brass. but is still functioning (although it’s now A LOT less pretty.)

* Do you like horror movies?
* Have you ever traveled around another country alone?
* Wouldn’t it be fun to chuck it all and go live on a sailboat?

http://uk.lifehacker.com/5759588/how-to-tell-if-youre-compatible-with-another-person

aye, My tektro’s and my avids both didn’t work. the posts are a lot closer than on other frames (i assume for skinny road rims). I got some Cheap shimano brakes and they worked fine, try them?

I jut fell off my bike trying to do a wheelie. Was riding fixed, got to the balance point and tried to use the back brake to correct myself, then realised I didnae have a back brake. Landed on my arse with the bike still attached.

what a tit

Have a kona sutra but it will only take 37mm tyres

What year is your sutra? Enough clearance for 26″ wheels with 2.1″ tyres in one of the 2010 brown ones. Better for offroad touring than 29er wheels and easier to get spares.

DON’T BUY THORN.

I owned a thorn Raven, the only bike I’ve ever sold through hate, it handled horrendously. I ended up selling it right before the 3,500mile bike tour it was bought for and used my commuter bike instead (roadrat)

i love you too podge. Think I’ll take my chances.

I found that site myself, but couldn’t navigate my way through it.
Their was a link on here to the test procedures somewhere and was just wondering if anyone knew where it was? Site search said no.

’tis for the clunker classic …

Still needs paint and it’s getting a rather special gearing system

those are 18″ wheels … the bike is tiiiny

Was too hungover to go ride today, so I watched some films then ground the unecessary brakemounts off this.

ag, nae photos … bike related clothing…

I’m very insecure and need brands emblazened over my chest … but I don’t care ’cause I got one of these dirt cheap

you’re audaxing with an aero back wheel? How are you finding it? or am I mistaken?

those pasleys are horrendously heavy

Love mine! did a huge tour through central asia on mine, along with a few audax rides and used it for 2 years of bike courier work. now been relegated to being used as a polo bike.

I will reiterate the comments above
Yes, it is VERY flexy. fine for commuting but not touring. Works best with discs, the V posts are annoyingly placed. is a pain to use for singlepeed/fixed with full length mudguards due to the eyelet positioning. BUT it rides a dream.

Bought it because of my love for my sadly departed mk.1 cotic soul… Cy does good things for frame geometry.

Changed my fork (and wheels for that matter) for the sake of Geometry. Here’s it without a disc-rotor or innertube.

Before:

After:

Rollapalua are great but they’re not the only ones out there, Try getting in touch with the great northern rollers lot?

get an integrated hanger and turn the seatclamp around … won’t make any difference if the seatslot isn’t in the same place as the gap in the seatclamp

If you want a mountain folder check out the montague mountain bikes.
had a fiddle with their stuff at the london bike show recently and was really impressed at how solid they feel.

Can I just pipe in and say, I LOVE big apples, but they’re huge. I currently have cityjets and can only recommend you avoid, the grip is pathetic compared to similar offerings from other manufacturers