You could use clear nail polish instead (prob not as durable as the expoy tho). Then you will want to sand it down very carefully with fine sandpaper.

I do a lowers service about every month on my Pike forks, but then I am pretty obsessive-compulsive with regards to suspension performance!

How often have you performed a lowers service on them?
As for the scratches, you might be able to fix them with epoxy or something.

A week or so, but wouldn’t hesitate to use them again.

best dance moves ever

CityLink aka Sh*ttyW*nk couriers have to be up there in the top ten.

I wait in all day, checking status on the net … “out for delivery” “out for delivery” “out for delivery”

Then – “NO ANSWER AT DELIVERY ADDRESS”

Absolute lies. I’ve been there with the door open all day (need components to replaced failed hardware when writing uni dissertation).

I go and collect it, fine. One off, whatever, don’t have time to take it further but will not use them again…
Then next month I have to order something else, EBuyer at the time would ONLY deliver large items with CityLink. SAME FSCKING THING AGAIN.

The fact that so much different content is bundled together on the front page of the forum is what makes STW’s forum so great. Please don’t turn it into MTBR (no offense to members!)

What’s the £100k for exactly?

might as well get one of these instead
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/155468

they are crap

I use the steel Halo skewers. Whenever the wheel has to come off, they’re just as tight as ever and the steering seems a little better than with a normal QR, similar to the DT RWS 9mm skewer I have no worries about them at all.

Be careful with those, I’ve had two of them fail – in both cases they snapped where the threads end on the rod. Can only think that I overtightened them, but I only did them finger tight with a normal allen key.

Are you up to date for video + sound drivers?

Only helps if you’re using a mouse though, on a ‘book you’re likely to be using the pad etc.

a tickbox (note lack of having to edit xorg.conf! ;) ) in the trackpad control panel solves this, right clicking is then just tapping with two fingers onto the trackpad.

Nice one, can you update the OS or will it keel over?
Also do you get niceties like quartz extreme?

I’ve got 426 on my Soul and 454 on my Hemlock. About 14 stone with all kit on and standard spring is fine. Great forks.

You must be a light 14 stone then! I’m currently 13.5 and running the x-firm which I find about right. The med and the firm are far too soft (ok when seated but most of the travel is used as sag when standing)

Jeez, thats pretty rough. Fair play to the parents for not having the croc put down. After all it was just doing what it does – not sure I’d have been able to act so calmly after it’d eaten my son tho :|

I’ve just had spent a bit more than usual to have Continental Eco 3 tyres fitted.

I had cheapy rock hard Goodyear ones on it before and the car would understeer savagely in wet or greasy conditions. Unbelievably better with the Contis, like a different car to drive.

I got mine based on the recommendations of Which magazine.

i thought this thread was going to be about white dog plops

deacon

details are foggy but I have a vague recollection of one where bolts kept sneaking away under the fridge

take a look on the router’s admin page and see what other devices have DHCP leases (the exact instructions for this vary between manufacturers but it’ll probably be on an address something like 192.168.0.1 and under the LAN heading)

avatars + ‘tick’ for email notification please!

good heavens

What do you need to bleed them with a syringe? is it a special kit?

A syringe and a length of windscreen wiper tubing from halfords.

Sadly the mineral oil seems to ruin the plunger on the syringe so it gets a bit difficult to move, but hey, it’s cheap!

Cheers juilian! Might give this a bash next week.

Check the nut under the end cap is tight on the pedals.

I only have Wellgo V12 copies so I’m not sure if they’re exactly the same as real V12s, but there must be something equivalent.

If the bolt is even the tiniest bit loose, despite having smooth rotation you’ll get knock-knock-knock…

They’re great brakes when working. I found them an absolute pig to setup though. They were nigh on impossible to bleed using either a syringe from the calliper upwards, or the top down Shimano method.

What I eventually found was the problem was the lever when fully extended (ie. not pulled) was not exposing the little hole in the reservoir and opening the system, hence it was nearly impossible to get fluid into the system. A couple of laccy bands pulling the lever in very slightly fixed this and now they are working very nicely.

As some have said they are more spongey feeling that non-SW brakes, but this isn’t really noticeable except in a car-park test. On the trail they are brill.

All winter I’ve had problems with my shimano (Lx and SLX) pistons seizing up. Not sure if it’s the cold or the mud to be honest, but either way it’s a PITA. The brakes still work, but usually one piston won’t retract meaning it grinds on the disc.

wee in its many pairs of shoes

What i can’t get my head round is how you don’t notice the QR is undone?

If the information here is correct, vibration (or rather any motion between the interface and the bolt head) can loosen the QR. So maybe it was only loose for a few seconds, then he noticed the bike felt strange or heard a noise and instinctively pulled on the brake.

Just use solid axles. Not as stiff as some but noticeably better than QR. 10 min job to swap the axles if using Shimano cone type hubs.

How and what would you need to do this for a Shimano hub?

amazing

If mine get even the tiniest spot of oil on the pads or disc I get a horrific judder and braking at low speed results in a noise like a goose being assaulted

I had my Air Pikes Pushed about six months ago and they are ****’ brilliant. They were good before, but now you can rag the hell out of them on Peak rockeries and they just eat it up, whereas before under real provocation, they’d occasionally spike and start getting out of shape. If you’re happy with them now, then I wouldn’t bother, if you find they sometimes get out of shape, then I think it’s a great mod. Also, TFT will ask you about your riding style, weight, what bike etc and set them to suit you. I run them about 5psi less positive than they suggest, but otherwise, spot on.

Maybe I’ve misunderstood but I thought the Push upgrade was an improved (speed sensitive) rebound part.
How would this affect spiking (which I think means not enough oil can get through the compression dampers port orrifice and the floodgate is set too high to blow off) ?

o lawds iz dat sum ufo

Assuming proper setup :-) the lyric should outperform the Pike. It has a damper with dedicated highspeed adjustments. You can use the floodgate setting on the Pike to emulate this somewhat, but it is not as good as the damper in the Lyric.

That said there have been problems with loose/knocking bushings on the Lyric. Plenty of threads on MTBR about this.

I find that after an oil change, they don’t stay feeling ultra rad for very long. Maybe 5 ries and they go noticeably flat. Then again, I tend to abuse them a bit.

What oil are you using?

PK-ripper’s pic there looks a lot better than others I’ve seen on the net.

is it a fish or a peenor

They are £150 F&R posted on ebay from Merlin. Doesn’t say if they are made up or not but I suspect they are.

Mine weren’t – and they were an absolute pig to bleed (much harder than LX for instance)

Great brakes when setup properly though. No drag and very controllable.

http://www.cycletherapist.co.uk/step-by-step-guides/rock-shox-lyrik-lower-service/
http://www.enduroforkseals.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/pike_dual_air3.pdf

I’ve had QR ’09 Revs and 20mm ’08 Pikes.

The Pikes have an extra oil seal over the Revs, which only have a large foam ring and not the proper seal underneath it. Not sure if this holds true of the 20mm Revs though.

I’ve noticed quite a bit of crap getting past the wipers so I think the oil seal is a definite plus.