I’ve had to fit a bash on my 2007, as I was hitting everthing with the big ring. I’m not an aggresive rider either.

I run 35% sag on my 08 and it’s not a problem – does the 07 have a lower BB?

The only time I change the setting is to ‘fully’ lock the compression damping, with the floodgate about a third of a turn it. Its still fairly compliant but plunges markedly less. I use this setting for steep, technical descents where speed is low and compressions are deep (i.e dropping off-roots and rocks). It gives the bike more stability by controlling the bob and dive. It helps to remove the full suss alternating front/rear pogo effect you can get in these circumstances.

This is similar to my setup which I use all the time, except I have the blue dial set to about 40% clockwise, not fully locked. Sounds like the result is pretty similar – controlled fork movement but still fully active on bumps.

not seen one but they might (probably won’t) stop cyclists from undertaking.

do people actually do that? Maybe the roads are wider where you are but you’d never do that here because you’d be crushed against railings/forced onto the pavement

if you have the gold dial completely open, then locking with the remote basically makes no difference.

Yes, it means that only the floodgate is controlling the compression (believe this is how TF recommend Pikes to be run these days?)

So if I do what you say, I assume that having the Floodgate nearly all the way open means that, when I have the forks locked out, they should still compress quite easily if I hit something biggish (not that I forget to unlock them at the top of descents, oh no…)

Ha, well the setup I describe gives the best performance for the fork when not locked out, the floodgate will set be far too open to be useful when locked out.

However, all is not lost! With sufficient LSC, lockout is not required – the fork will bob very little but will still be active enough to absorb bumps.

If I wind the dial in a bit, so as to increase the (low speed) damping, the fork will bob less when I’m stomping the pedals, but should still suck up the (high-speed) bumps?

Kind of; turning the blue dial adjusts the size of a hole in the damper. This can be adjusted from fully counter clockwise (fully open hole) to fully clockwise (hole closed).

With a medium amount of this blue dial (LowSpeedCompression) set, you will get excellent performance whilst riding berms, braking, etc but the fork may not be able to let enough oil through the damper to handle bigger hits (this is called spiking). This is where HighSpeedCompression comes in.

As I said above, the only HSC adjustment available on MotionControl forks is the floodgate adjuster. You can open this almost fully (few clicks from fully anticlockwise) and if you hit a large bump, it will open up and allow more oil through the damper.

Thus, you can have a decent amount of LSC controlling the movement of the fork when not hitting bumps (eg bob, cornering, braking etc) and a different amount of HSC allowing the fork to actually move quickly enough to absorb bumps without spiking.

The dial on Poploc remotes is essentially ‘high speed’ compression in that it’s only active when the fork isn’t locked out.

Maybe I misunderstand you but I disagree with that explanation.

The blue dial on the poploc controls the size of the port in the damper, same as the blue dial on non-poploc forks. This controls the low speed compression.

The only ‘high-speed’ damping adjustment on Motion Control forks is achieved by setting the floodgate to almost fully open, so that it actives on big hits (it will do this even when the fork is not locked out – and yes I do know that this is not what the manual says – try it on your own forks! :-) )

Yes, great bike! Traction is excellent uphill and down.

Everyone who’s had a go on mine has had to be pried back off of it! :P

Ignore the MBR types moaning about flex, it’s not a problem in use at all. The one negative thing about them IMHO is the paintwork, which seems to scratch rather easily.

The only downside with pikes is you MUST get them push tuned, otherwise they wont work properly. Now thats another £100 at least.

???

20 mins every 20 hours isn’t too bad is it?
You could leave it a lot longer than that anyway, but seriously it’s an easy job and it keeps them running sweet so you might as well.

we went as Rock Legends for my mate’s stag. It was brilliant!

One point twenty one gigawatts

I think you’ll find it’s ‘jiggawatts’

For me it’s that amazing breakbeat mix of “Milk” by Garbage on Chainspotting where Matrin Hawes is hopping about on the beach.

Brilliant mix, never managed to get hold of a decent quality version of it tho.

My 09 revs did it once, reseated the wiper and they never did it again.

Round of applause for anyone who can identify where this was shot!

Come on! Sharing is caring!

My MX comps have had one service, last year when they reached 4 years old.

Yeah but MX comps are open bath and have loads of oil sloshing about in them to keep everything juicy

As above, don’t use GT85.

Buy some TFTuned lowers mix, and follow the guide here[/url]

It’s not really necessary to lube the stanchions at all but I do (with finish line stanchion lube but you could use suspension oil).

Danbury?

move it from /Library/Application Support and /Library/InputManagers

as above, check the frame very carefully :(

like it! is the slow motion intended? can’t tell if its just the framerate buggering up on my mac

my car is so dirty they’d have no chance of getting a ligible photo of the plate.

iTunes plus is DRM free + very high quality (if anybody claims I’m wrong I want to see ABX logs!)

http://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewAlbum?id=303040487&s=143444

Thanks MrNutt. I know that I can change it, I just don’t think Apple should break their own HIG! 8O

Doesn’t work with glims, and I don’t like the tabs being at the top.

The new webkit engine is very fast tho :D

sell your kidneys

As for cabling, a decent interconnect should be had for less than £50 (New)

Speaker cable, don’t spend more than £10/metre.

LOL

Some turd nabbed my debit card, then bought loads of crap from iTunes. Gotta say that Barclays were pretty good about sorting it though.

It’s Pancake Day
Yes it’s Pancake Day
It’s p-p-p-p-p pancake day

Woah! That show was brilliant. My mum still sings that song 8)

Warrior Dance is my fave track so far. A nod to their early works with the vocals, but sounds so fresh.

Had a similar problem on my fiesta, it was corroded battery contacts.
When I turned the key I got a click and a half-hearted murrrrgggh sound.

damn, just seen the pics over at PH. Very nasty, hope it heals quickly.

when a motorway or A road narrows from 3 to 2 lanes and every one filters into the lanes without needing to brake, then some imbecile speeds down the lane and right where it disappears, jams themselves in right at the front causing everyone to brake.

Some clever clogs will surely be along to inform me that this is what you’re meant to do – I DONT CARE

Another thing that annoys me is when people pull out of a side road too close to you, then don’t bother to accelerate. Fine, you misjudged that distance but don’t make me come to a complete stop.

They make very little difference to my journeys in reality but it’s the selfishness that other people assume that people should wait for them which annoys me.

Get out!

What he said.

Very nice. I love finding disused bunkers and buildings when out riding.

The warley hospital page was especially interesting to me, as I believe my great grandad ended up there.

If you mean you’ve lost 50% of your travel, likelihood is that the seal at the bottom of the stanchion on the damper side has failed, and the damping oil has ended up in your lowers.

Pretty easy to fix if you’ve serviced forks before, the o-ring probably just needs replacing. Instructions to do a full service are on the RS website.

If it genuinely hasn’t done 50 hours, maybe it’s worth speaking to the shop you got them from? Gotta be worth a try.

I got a massive bag from someone on ebay for a couple of quid.