My border collie developed an eye ulcer when she was about 16 months old, spent about a month applying eye drops but it didn’t really improve. The eye eventualy ‘burst’ & she w as rushed to a referral vet who carried out graft on the eye, reinflated it didn’t & saved her sight. Cost me a small fortune & to me was worth the money. She’s now nearly 5 years old with good vision, there is some scaring of the eye between the 12 & 3o’clock area but the rest of the eye looks completely normal.
Hope you manage to clear you dogs ulcer with the eye drops.

I’ve been using them for a couple of years on my six pack & have recently fitted them to my HL 5 spot. They do seem to have less stiction than standard ones & the suspension feels more supple over small stuff. They’re probably not worth it though if your pivot shafts are worn or the shaft ends are flared from over torqueing the pivot bolts as you will need new pivot shafts too. I found this out with the 5 spot when I fitted the bushes & then found one of the shafts couldn’t be pushed into the bushes, measured the shaft diameter & found it a couple of thou oversized at either end from over torqueing, fortunately had a good spare one kicking around. If I remove the shock the suspension moves freely under its own weight, unlike most standard bushes

I cant get on with the lever replacing a lock on collar & run it slightly inboard

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2013-07-17 20.34.49[/url] by i.mack[/url], on Flickr

I piggybacked my Lev cable to the brake hose guides & shortened an old V brake cable noodle to improve cable routing from the lever.

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2013-04-14 19.22.22[/url] by i.mack[/url], on Flickr

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2013-04-14 19.16.34[/url] by i.mack[/url], on Flickr

I didn’t like the lever being integrated into the grips because it was too close to feel nice ergonomically although it is the neatest solution.

The lever can be mounted anywhere on the bars, using it as a lock on coller replacementis only an option. I run a Lev and I can’t get on with it used as a lock on replacement for the same reason mindmap3 found.
My 27.2mm lev has been faultless so far, very smooth action, minimal rotational play, secure seat clamp, light action easy to use lever & no cable movement – that was was the problem I had with my previous x-fusion hilo – the cable loop caught in the long rockers of my Turner 6 pack & would crush the outer cable

Here are my two, an ’04 Five Spot & an ’05 Six Pack

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2013-06-01 19.32.41_1[/url] by i.mack[/url], on Flickr

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2013-06-01 19.31.06[/url] by i.mack[/url], on Flickr

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2013-05-19 19.03.31[/url] by i.mack[/url], on Flickr

I’ve got a b screw tension plate from an m952, mail me your address & I’ll pop it in the post.
Iain

Couldn’t find anyone locally (Kent) who could reheat treat my Turner Six pack when it cracked last year, ended up sending it back to Turner who replaced the cracked seat tube, reheat treated, powder coated, new decals & full bush set for a very reasonable £210.
I’d like to find someone locally who can do it as I have another cracked 6061 frame that I’d like to get repaired

ks lev- it’s great!

I’ve been running a 27.2mm lev for a few months now, its miles better than the hilo it replaced. It has very little side to side play, smooth action, a nice seat clamp arrangement, a light lever operation – although I find the lever too close to my hand if used to replace the lockon clamp, but that’s personal choice. The static cable is fantastic as I had a real problem keeping the cable loop out of the way of the suspension with the hilo.

Have you tried Viewranger?

Love my sixpack, best bike I’ve ridden- all 39lbs of it

Love my sixpack, best bike I’ve ridden- all 39lbs of it

If it’s like my 08 55 you just keep turning the lever to the desired position- it will click when the appropriate torque is applied

gil_m on retrobike is the man you need to contact for those dropouts

Someone on retrobike was making those disc mounts, do a search on there. It comes as part of the replacable dropout. It probably isn’t sitting parallel to the seatstay as he probably makes one dropout that has to fit all frame sizes and different seat stay angles.

It’s still listed on Turners website, it’d be nice if they brought back the Pack/RFX though.

Just been servicing my Fox 32’s & they have a similar looking rubber ring that sits in the bottom of each of the lower legs – looks like you’ve left out one of the bottom out bumpers – Doh!!!

I used to love that game, was also a massive fan of gp2 & gp4. Graphics look worse than I remember them, you needed a good pc & graphics cards for it. I had a patch to run a ff steering wheel with it. Only ever managed to complete 1 full distance race at Silverstone on it with no driver aids- can’t remember if it had any driver aids actually. Can’t get the game to run on my current laptop though, it was the nuts!!

When you say you can ‘manually pull it up’ are you lifting the seat or manually pulling the barrel in the ‘cable box’. Someone on here had to adjust the inner kevlar cord to make the post return quicker as it had a very slow return speed. To adjust the inner cord you need to remove the base cap, there should be no slack in the inner cord. I’ve got a 27.2mm lev and I have to attatch the ‘claw’ onto the barrel in the cable box by giving it a gentle push with an allen key or screwdriver.

I’ve got a Lev & a Hilo, the Lev is the much nicer post of the two, smoother action, linear post compression (the hilo ramps up & needs a good ‘push’ to fully compress it), nicer seat clamp, static cable, zero rotational free play, much better remote with lighter action & the cable can easily be disconnected from the post. Return speed of the Lev is slower than the hilo & cant be adjusted with air pressure but I find the return ok & easy to make small height adjustments with a flick of the lever. The hilo lever feels a bit frail & wobbly although I’ve not had any problems with it. Having said that, the hilo is a good post but it does have some rotational play, the action is not so smooth, the cable generally needs replacing if you need to disconnect it from the post. The hilo ‘lifts’ if you pick the bike up with the saddle down whereas the Lev is locked in position regardless of saddle position. The biggest advantage of the hilo is that it is fully home servicable & has the option of the under saddle lever plus its about half the price of the Lev. The Levs not currently avilable in the UK, I got mine from Germany with 2 year warrenty & free return postage – hope I dont need it, but I wish I could buy a spare kevlar cord though!

Looking good, was it refurbed by Turner or done locally? I recently had my 05 Six Pack refurbed & repaired by Turner (replaced the cracked seattube), looks like new again.

matther01 any news on the lev yet, was it simply the bolts coming loose or was it more dramatic?

Heres my F8
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2013-04-11 19.08.45[/url] by i.mack[/url], on Flickr
Rode it off road on Sunday for the 1st time in a couple of years – it beat the living daylight out of me, I’ve become soft with full sussers!!
I’ve had it from new – my 4th warrenty replacement after my 1st 95 F5 cracked at the seat tube/bb shell. This one also cracked in the same place & I had it rewelded & reannodised by Pace shortly before production of the RC200/300 stopped.
Spec is: 2000/01 RC200F8, 420mm RC31’s, 100mm RC45 stem, RCsub 130 bars, Middleburn rings & RS3’s, Hope ti bb, hubs, 1st generation 165/145 minis, 1st gen hope ti qr’s, Syncros seatpost, flite tt saddle, 8speed xtr shifter pods & rear mech, xt front mech, mavic 317 disc bontrager revolt super x’s

I shortened an old v brake noodle and fitted it straight into the remote lever and then installed the adjuster barrel onto the noodle. I find the adjuster makes connecting and disconnecting the ‘claw’ easier as you can give the cable some slack.

Yeah, ordinary shimano outer gear cable on mine – no problems

Thanks Onzadog, thats what I was hoping.

nicholas_yiu, I’d seen your thread prior to buying my post so I know I’m taking a gamble with it, but your options are so limited in the 27.2mm. Can you confirm you only lost air pressure when removing the air rod, not when unscrewing the base of the seat post.

Well, mine arrived today, initial impressions are good. The finish is good, the fact you can rotate the saddle clamp so you can position the cable ‘port’ for best routing is great. Setting the cable up is a little fiddly but not difficult. I modified an old v brake noodle to give the cable a 90 degree exit from the remote lever, operation of the lever is very light. Interestingly my saddle doesnt lift when the seat is dropped, my mates larger diameter lev does lift. The 27.2mm version has no valve to adjust air pressure, dont know if this will stop you dismantling it to replace the kevlar cord when it breaks. Return speed is not too bad, not as quick as my hilo but has a much smoother action. Look forward to testing it on Wednesday evening.

Rode my fully rigid Pace RC200 today as my mates Trek Remedy was broken & he was forced to ride his old hard tail, I thought it would be a laugh to ride the Pace, no it wasn’t, it was 2 hours of pure pain, my arms & hands are knackered, how the hell did I used to ride that thing. I’ve ridden some pretty serious in Wales & Spain on that in the past, addmittedly it had RC35/6’s in it back then, I must have been a lot tougher back then, never again will I whinge about lugging my 38lb Turner 6pack round the trails!

3x King headsets, oldest one bought in 1994, one in ’98 & one in ’07. All have been serviced, but not very often. The 2 newer ones have both had griploc conversions which in my mind make the headset perfect.

Yeah, I took slightly longer than 14 minutes to decide but got no replies so ended up ordering one from bike discount – eagerly awaiting its arrival.

wm4wm4, why wont the griploc fit your headset, I’m using one on a 1993 no logo King headset – works great

An old Pace grease gun with long nozzle & Pace RC7 grease has worked for me for 8 years

HL frames have the pivot nearest the drop out on the chainstay, TNT frames have the pivot nearest the drop out on the seatstay

Personaly I like the DHX5 coils on both my 04 5spot & 05 6pack, the original Romic coil was also good on the Spot. I tried an RP23 on the Spot but didn’t like it, it just felt lifeless & harsh to me after the coil, but I guess it’s all personal preferance.

TNT 06 onwards

Ciclo Montana are great & in the same area as SwitchBacks, they’re operating in April.

My dual ply Ardents look like that, doesnt seem to cause a problem

I’ve had good results sticking hose guides to andodised & painted frames using ‘serious glue’ – I think its made by bostick, it’s waterproof & slightly flexible got, it from Homebase.