If you aren’t willing to give it a go yourself, try giving flotec a shout, they might be able to sort you out.

They work fine on flats, but the little bolt on bit that covers up the cleat holes doesn’t have all that much rubber on, and mine got pretty chewed up after using them on flats. If you were going to use them on flats all the time, then I don’t think it would be worth it.

I know that rohloff stopped making 8 and 9 speed chains a couple of years ago, and said they were only only going to make single speed chains from now on. I can’t see them for sale anywhere though, I guess they just aren’t making chains any more.

Either get a winter trainer road bike, or a singlespeed/geared hardtail that can get muddy and trashed without huge maintenance costs.

Go to a doctor first for their advice, and then get yourself to a sports physio for some proper advice and treatment. It might be expensive, but getting rid of that kind of pain in your daily life is something that you can’t put a value on.

Are you buying a frame or a complete bike? It’s possible to put in a normal 1 1/8th top headset cup in and fit tapered forks and normal stems.

Since RIM is circling the drain as a company you’re better off deciding what you want the phone to do, and then picking an OS whether it’s Android, iOS, or WP8.

You’ll only get the most out of the iPhone if you already run an apple ecosystem. Android has almost caught up with iOS in terms of apps available, and offers a fair bit more flexibility if you like tweaking and fiddling. WP8 is still lagging behind in terms of app store ecosystem.

It really depends on your usage and preferences, there’s not clear cut winners and losers any more.

Determine Maximum Chainring Difference by subracting the number of teeth in the smallest chainring from the number of teeth in the largest chainring

Determine Maximum Cassette Cog Difference by subtracting the number of teeth on the smallest cassette cog from the number of teeth on the largest cassette cog

Determine Total Drivetrain Capacity by adding Maximum Chainring Difference to the Maximum Cassette Cog Difference

Record the Maximum Cassette Cog (the number of teeth on the largest Cassette Cog)

Work it out for yourself, it’s not difficult.

Shimano’s newest brakes. Just pick one at whatever price you are willing to pay.

The episode with Sir Patrick Stewart and Sir Stirling Moss was leagues better, for all the obvious reasons.

Shimano say you shouldn’t, everyone who has tried it says it works pretty much fine, and any functional differences are imperceptible.

Zee crankset weights ~900g including BB.
Deore crankset (triple) ~980 with BB
SLX crankset (triple) ~900 with BB

These are all figures I just pulled off the web, so they may not be right, but there’s not much in it.

I believe that the zee shifter is almost identical to an SLX one as well.

Fast rolling on road, yet grippy in mud? No tyre exists.

The best compromise would probably be something like a conti baron or a maxxis beaver.

Pelvis size as in the actual pelvic bone? Or just a hip/waist measurement?

Every 160mm full sus bike with 1×10, chain guide, wide bars and a short stem.

The Honzo can only do E-type front derailleurs as well.

With a budget of 3000 you’re not spoilt for choice, but there are some options. Check out the dirt 100, massive range of DH bikes in it this year.

Some suggestions would be:
Specialized Demo I (£3000)
YT Tues 2.0 (£2000)
Modraker Summum (£3000)
Specialized Status II (£2500)
Scott Gambler 30 (£2500)

Some that are a bit above that budget would be a Trek session 88, a Morewood Makulu, or a Scott Gambler 20.

Secondhand would get a bunch more decent and hopefully well kept bikes in that price range, but obviously with all the caveats of second hand buying.

Do bloods have the bearing pinch bolt? I didn’t think that they did.

My steel langster is nice, but has absolutely no way of attaching guards, racks, mounts, anything. I like it that way, but maybe you wouldn’t. Race blades would be the only thing you could fit to it.

I can’t find any useful info, so I suspect you’ll have the pull the bearings out and measure them to find replacements. The main pivot bearings will either be 28 or 32mm external diameter, so you can order the appropriate ones from orange, but the rest it looks like you’ll have to find yourself.

For HTII at least 68mm and 73mm both use the same BB, it’s just spaced differently. 83mm requires a longer axle, but the BB is spaced just like a 68mm.

There are far too many though. Relevant XKCD as always[/url]

Bike discount and rose were pretty much the same price last time I checked, and cheaper than CRC, but not by a huge amount. There’s not really any outstanding deals at the moment for 10 speed stuff.

Put whichever one is lighter onto your helmet. Personally I don’t like having a helmet light with a trailing wire and a battery in a jersey pocket, but do whatever you get on with.

Paul’s thumbies just mean that you can mount a bar end shifter in a thumb shifter position. So instead of having of them be drop bar (or TT bar) use only, you can put them on flat bars as well.

Thumb shifters usually have their own attached mount so they already are able to go on flat bars. You might be able to mount them to some thumbies, but that’s not what the thumbies are designed for.

You might have to get a ruler out… http://www.e13components.com/support_iscg_explained.html

I’ve got an 816. I don’t have anything really good or bad to say about it, it lights up the trail, lasts a bit over 2 hours, and the mount is ok but could be better.

I’d go for an 880 if I was getting a new one.

Since the shimano ones all work up to 56 teeth rings, I would imagine that any sram braze on one would work fine.

The Dialled 29er will probably be a bit slacker than a Solaris, but doesn’t have iscg tabs compared to the trans am, if that makes any difference to you.

Just email mojo and ask, they probably would since it’s just an internals swap with a different external control. Unlikely to be cheap, but I’m sure you know that already.

How much travel does the frame have? The new ones are 130mm and would probably be fine with up to 150mm forks.

Since you’re raising the front end, either move the stem down if there are any spacers under it, or swap to a lower rise bar to keep your position the same.

Go for the Nukeproof stem.
Pretty spot on choices though, you’re unlikely to get anything better new for less.

The alloy one does have cable routing for a dropper post, but the carbon one does seem to be the one to go for if you have the cash – a bit lighter, but probably stronger and stiffer.

Is it better than any of the other frames? That really depends on how you ride and what you like. The ASR5 doesn’t have a plush feeling, and all the reviews say it needs to be pushed hard and fast to get the most out of it.

I think that the Stanton is hand-built in the UK, and the NS Surge is built in the far east. That doesn’t mean that the Surge is going to be any worse, but would explain why it’s cheaper.

Why not a Dialled Alpine / Prince Albert, or a Cotic Bfe / Soul? Just giving you some suggestions.

Flow EX without a doubt.

Is it a freewheel at the back like this: BMX freewheel[/url] or is it a freewheel that would accept a cassette but instead has a single cog and a bunch of spacers on it?

If you put an outer chainring onto the middle tabs of a crankset it’ll work, and give you the chainline you need, but it’ll look hideous. The expensive sugino ones are their track range, you can get a messenger for £100.

I would suspect the chainline would be too far out if you used an mtb crankset in the outer ring tabs. Take a look at Tokyo Fixed Gear

Anyone else think the brake manufacturers have been caught napping on this one?

Until the UCI legalised disc brakes for cross there was far too little demand for them to make a decent system.

For a mountain bike or a road bike?

MRP or e-thirteen 2x guides.

Someone will be along to mention a blackspire stinger soon, and then someone else will mention that they did just fine without a chainguide.

Gamut does one as well, but they’re usually pricy especially with a bash. (Someone correct me if I’m wrong). I’d go for the e*thirteen one myself.

What bike are you swapping components off, and what bits are you keeping? Fork, wheels, etc.

Both the tracer and the alpine are lovely bikes, but both are a bit more aggro than the stumpjumper. The specialized equivalent is an enduro, which might be sold as a frame only option (might be carbon only, I don’t remember).

You need to give some more details about what you have and the kind of riding that you do in order to get a specific answer.